CHAPTER I.

§ I.

GENERAL RETROSPECT OF THE PUBLISHED INFORMATION ON THIS SUBJECT PRIOR TO M. CAILLIÉ’S TRAVELS.

A powerful interest is attached to travels in central Africa: any attempt, therefore, to explore this part of the world can scarcely fail to excite curiosity, provided, at least, that it makes some addition to the knowledge previously acquired and supplies one of the deficiencies of geographical science; that is to say, if it furnishes authentic documents concerning the respective situations of places, their topographical positions, and relative distances; concerning the natural productions and physical geography of the country; the population, commerce, interior navigation, industry, and agriculture; the manners, customs, religious worship, superstitions, and language of the people, or the physical conformation of the inhabitants; in short, provided it is calculated to interest the geographer or the naturalist, the historian or the person engaged in commerce and manufactures. The merit and usefulness, indeed, of a narrative of travels consists in these positive results. The attentive reader will discover in the simple journal before him more than one such result, especially in matters of geography, the nomenclature and position of places, the course and importance of rivers, the situation of mountains, and generally speaking, every thing relating to the accidents of the soil. The various tribes, also, visited by M. Caillié, and in the midst of which he lived, presented so many subjects of observation that it was impossible he should not attempt, at least, to sketch their portraits. To the well-informed public it belongs to appreciate whatever is new and interesting in this simple and inartificial picture of nations and tribes scarcely known in Europe, even by name. I must not, however, rest here, but will turn my undivided attention in the first place to examining and discussing all the points of geography connected with M. Caillié’s route. Before I proceed, to this discussion, for which I shall need all the indulgence of the reader, I shall take leave to cast a glance upon the explorers who preceded him, and the information we possessed anterior to his travels. Notwithstanding the advantage which M. Caillié has over all his predecessors, in having brought to Europe a description of the city of Timbuctoo, written on the spot, several motives induce me to recapitulate here the prior attempts which have been made by others, each of which enterprises has formed an additional step in the career which he alone has been enabled to pursue to its accomplishment. After this examination of the discoveries and relations of preceding travellers, I shall analyse the map of the route annexed to this work. It has been constructed from the materials furnished in minute detail by the journal of the French traveller, and which also form the basis of the general map of the journey. I shall then treat of the nomenclature of the countries through which he has travelled, of the course of the great river, which, like Mungo Park, he has navigated, and of the acquisitions for which science is indebted to him, without neglecting the questions connected with the theatre of his discoveries.

Whoever studies the history of the discoveries in the interior of Africa is obliged to go back to the learned cosmographer el-Edricy, who may be styled the Prince of Arabian geography. Till now, an extract only of his description has been known, but a learned oriental scholar[23] has just discovered a much more complete manuscript than that which was translated into Latin at the commencement of the 16th century, and which the learned Hartmann has commented upon. While waiting for the benefit of the translation preparing by M. Amédée Jaubert, I shall quote from the Latin version[24] the description of the countries which M. Caillié has visited, but which form only a very small portion of the theatre of his peregrinations. According to el-Edricy, Segelmassa or Sidjilmessa, a town in the country of Tafilet, is forty days’ journey from the Soudan, that is to say, from the inhabited districts and fertile soil of this immense region; it is also computed to be forty days’ journey to Tocrur or Takrour, to Salla or Sala, and to Ouhl. Sala is on the northern and Takrour on the southern bank of a river called Nile. Sala is two days’ journey from Takrour whether by land or water.

The place named Oulil, described as an island properly so called, is the great mart for salt in those parts, and is situated sixteen days’ journey from Sala. Eastward of Takrour are several large towns; Ghana, at a distance of twenty four days, and Berissa of twelve; from the latter Aoudeghest[25] is twelve days’ journey towards the north and the district of Lamlem six to the south; this contains Wangara, Maleb, and Dau, four days’ journey from each other; to the west is Meczara, to the east, Vancara, to the north Ghana, and a desert to the south.

Many of these statements agree sufficiently with M. Caillié’s marches across the desert; I can here only slightly mention this conformity, because it would be necessary otherwise to enter into details on the extent of a day’s journey and on the different kinds of days’ journeys; an important question which shall be discussed elsewhere. Takrour corresponds perhaps with the locality which has since become the seat of Timbuctoo[26]: the importance of this ancient town is proved by the name of Takrour, then given to the whole of the Soudan, and applied to it by the natives even to the present time. Sala is a point known to M. Caillié, but to the right of the route from Timbuctoo to Tafilet, and not to the west of Timbuctoo; and it must not be confounded with Ain-Salak, the oasis of Agably.

May not the Oulil of el-Edricy, so long sought, be an island in the sense understood by the word oasis, as surrounded on all sides by an ocean of sand? this place would then correspond well with Tychyt, celebrated for its salt-mines; it is true however that the Arabian geographer seems to place Oulil upon the sea itself.[27]

With respect to Ghana, which is thought to answer to Kano, visited by the last English travellers, its position in el-Edricy appears too much towards the west; unless these travellers (as has been already suspected) have placed Kano and other points of the Soudan between Bornou and Saccatoo, too far to the east.

Above two centuries before el-Edricy, Ebn-Haukal, another not less esteemed Arabian writer, had fixed the relative positions of Sidjilmassa, Oulil, and Ghana; these equally agree with the itinerary of our traveller; every well informed reader will inquire whether the same agreement exists with the marches of the celebrated Ben-Batouta. His travels are known by the fragments which Messrs. Kosegarten and Burckhardt have translated from the extract given by el-Bilouni.[28]

It is known that, in 1352, Ben-Batouta quitted Sidjilmessa for Timbuctoo and central Africa: in twenty-five days he reached the salt mines of Teghazza;[29] ten days afterwards, Tas-hal; ten or twelve days farther on Aboulaten (Ejulat or Eiwelaten);[30] beyond that, Maly, at a distance of twenty-four days; from Maly to Zaghary (or Sagher), ten days; and thence to Karsendjou (or Karseckou).

This place is washed by the great river, which is the Nile, and runs to Kabera and Zaghah (or Sagha); from Zaghah, the Nile flows towards Timbuctoo, Koukou (Kok), Mouly the last place of the country of Maly and Bowy (or Youy), one of the largest towns of the Soudan. Thence the Nile descends to the country of Nouba and passes Dongolah. From Karsendjou, Ben-Batouta proceeded to the river of Sansarah, ten miles from Maly, which he left after a residence of two months; some days afterwards he reached Timbuctoo on the Nile, Koukou, Berdammah, and Takadda (or Nekda). On his return to Sidjilmessa, he visited Touat, Kahor, Dekha, and Bouda; a journey of more than twenty-eight days or stages.

The obscurity of this recital must be confessed: it arises chiefly from the different ways of reading proper names, in supplying the orthographical signs often wanting in manuscripts. Thus Burckhardt has read تغاري Tegherry, the same name which Kosegarten had read تغازا Taghazza, which would bring the traveller into the country of Fez very far from the Sahara. Tas-hala, a commercial town is perhaps Tychyt: Aboulaten ابولاتن is confounded with Eyoulaten ايولاتن or Oualet. Maly or Mala ماي is perhaps Sala سالي, Nekda نكدا for Tagada تكدا &c.

The places in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, according to Ben-Batouta, are Kabera and Zaghah. We still know Cabra, and the second of these names reminds us of the Meczara of el-Edricy, and the Mar-Zaghah or Marzarah of other accounts. Thus the distance of the places with which M. Caillié became acquainted, and which in consequence I have placed upon the general map of the Travels, Tychyt, Oualet, Sala, Cabra, and Timbuctoo, would nearly agree with the description of Ben-Batouta: I say nothing here respecting the direction of the rivers.

Few itinerary distances are to be found in the relations compiled from the discoveries of the Portuguese on this coast of Africa. They have carefully concealed the positive documents which they may have collected, lest the other nations of Europe should rival them in their commerce. We read in the Decades of Barros that they had much intercourse with the two kingdoms of Toucourof and Timbuctoo. It is not demonstrated that the first of these names is identical with Takrour,[31] and consequently this passage will not prove that the countries of Takrour and Timbuctoo are distinct.

In the time of Leo Africanus, who travelled in the early part of the sixteenth century, the prosperity of Timbuctoo had declined in favour of the town of Djenné, which is still, by the report of M. Caillié, more considerable and commercial than the former city. According to Leo, the river which runs near Timbuctoo takes a westerly direction. “We navigated,” says he, “coming from the kingdom of Tombuto, to the east, and following the course of the stream, towards the kingdom of Ghinea, and as far as the kingdom of Melli, which are both to the west of Tombo.” This assertion is not confirmed by the French traveller. Even if we suppose that one of the two branches, which he saw near that city was a tributary, and not a derivative branch, and that he had not perceived the distinction, (which must appear very extraordinary), this hypothesis would be contradicted, since it was reported to him by the inhabitants that this arm rejoined the principal stream at some distance.

With the exception of Leo, (who was a Moor born at Grenada), and the Portuguese, concerning whom we have but uncertain accounts, transmitted by Marmol and Barros, the first European who reached Timbuctoo was Francis Paul Imbert, born at Sables-d’Olonne, in the native province of Réné Caillié; his journey was anterior to the year 1670. He accompanied his master, a Portuguese renegado, sent to Timbuctoo by the governor of Tafilet. From the little that is known of his travels, we learn that the distance from Morocco to Timbuctoo is four hundred leagues, and that it is considered a two months’ journey. This route was nearly the same as that followed by M. Caillié, at least as far as Tafilet: the time also is the same. Again, the calculation of four hundred leagues agrees very well with that of M. Caillié. Three other routes have been attempted by Europeans for penetrating to the centre of Northern Africa; that of the Senegambia, that of Tripoli, and that of Egypt and the Upper Nile. The first is certainly the shortest; the second is full of obstacles; and the last, though the longest, will probably be one day preferred by the intelligent traveller, as the most instructive, the most fruitful in discoveries, and for other reasons. I say nothing of a fourth course, that of the Gulph of Benin, which at this time engages the attention of England, but which, notwithstanding the numerous rivers terminating in that part, seems to offer very little prospect of success. To penetrate into the interior by the Rivers of Senegal, Gambia, or Sierra-Leone, was the most natural enterprize, not only on account of the proximity, but also with a view to the necessity of tracing to its source that vast stream which runs near Timbuctoo: a question of no less importance than the problem of the sources of the Nile, and, which is become almost as celebrated with the moderns, as the other was amongst the ancients. It is also observable that of forty-two European travellers, twenty-two are supposed to have taken this route, independently of six Europeans shipwrecked on that coast, carried into the interior by the Moors, and who have collected information respecting either Timbuctoo or other central countries. These travellers not having for the most part pursued the same track with M. Caillié, and an abridged history of their discoveries having been already compiled by M. Walckenaer and other learned geographers, I consider it altogether superfluous to review them. The reader will have double cause to rejoice in the curtailment of these observations, and in being at the same time directed to such excellent sources of information. I shall only state from these various authorities, the epoch and extent of the principal journeys, succinctly analyzing those which present a line of route crossed by that of M. Caillié, or which have something in common with it. The reader will thus have before him a striking picture of the several efforts made, with admirable perseverance, by Europeans, during the last two centuries and a half.

In 1588,Thompsonreached Tendaby the Gambia
1620,Robert Jobson—idem.—idem.
1670,Paul Imbert—Timbuctoo—Morocco
1698,De Brué—Galam—Saint-Louis
1715,Compagnon—Bambouk—idem.
1723,Stibbs—„—Gambia
1731,Moore—Bambouk—the Gambia
1742,De Flandre—„—Saint-Louis
1749,Adanson—„—idem.
1784,Follier—„—Coasts of Nun.
1785,Sanguier—„—idem.
1785,Brisson—„—idem.
1786,Ruband—Galam—Saint-Louis
1787,Picard—Fouta-Toro—idem.
1791,Houghton—L-Oud-Amar—Gambia
1792,Browne—Darfour—Egypt
1794,⎰Watt⎱—Timbo—Rio-Nuñez
⎱Winterbottom⎰
1795,Mungo Park—Silla on the Dhioliba—Gambia
1798,Hornemann—Nyffé—Egypt
1805,Mungo Park—Boussa—Gambia
1809,Roentgen—„—Magador
1810,Robert Adams—Timbuctoo—the western coast of Africa
1815,Riley—„—idem.
1817,Peddie—Kakondy—Rio-Nuñez
—Campbell—Pandjicotte—idem.
—Badia—„—Egypt
1818,Mollien—Timbo—Saint-Louis
1818,⎱Gray—Fouladou—Gambia
1819,⎰
—Dochard—Yamina—idem.
—Bowdich—Coumassie—Gold Coast
—Ritchie—Fezzan—Tripoli
—Lyon—„—idem.
1820,Cochelet—Ouad-Noun—west coast of Africa
1822,Laing—Falaba—Sierra-Leone
1823,⎰Oudney⎱—⎰
⎱		Mandara
Saccatoo		⎱
⎰		—Tripoli
Denham
⎱Clapperton⎰
1827,⎰Clapperton⎱—Saccatoo—Gulph of Benin
⎱Lander⎰
1827,Laing—Timbuctoo—Tripoli
1827,
1828,		⎱
⎰		Réné Caillié—⎰Timé⎱—Senegambia
Jenné
⎱Timbuctoo⎰

To this list may be added Ledyard and Lucas, in 1788, Nicholls, in 1805, Seetzen and Tuckey, in 1816, and P. Rouzée, in 1817, who took different routes, and did not succeed in penetrating into the interior.

Twenty-five Englishmen figure in this list, with fourteen Frenchmen, two Americans, and one German: but there are few of them, alas! since Major Houghton, who have not fallen victims to their heroic devotion, in the midst of their career.

Before setting out on his great journey M. Caillié had visited the interior of the deserts frequented by the Brakna and Dowich Moors; he had also accompanied M. Adrien Partarrieu, attached to the expedition of Major Gray.

He then followed or traversed the route of Major Houghton, going to the Ludamar of Mungo Park, (or rather the country of Eli-Oud-Amar[32]) and those of Major Gray and Surgeon Dochard, the one to Falimé, the other to Yamina. But, as he kept no regular notes of his peregrinations in this portion of Africa, I have no means of comparing them with those of the three former travellers. It is otherwise with the routes of Watt and Winterbottom, who in 1794 arrived at Timbo and Labé by the Rio-Nuñez; there they learnt that a four months’ journey would lead them to Timbuctoo, by way of Belia, Bouria, Manda, Sego, Sousundou and Genati[33].

On examining the general map of M. Caillié’s travels Baleya, Bourré, Amana, Sego, Sansanding and Djenné, names very little differing from the former, will actually be found, in a line, not indeed perfectly direct, from Labé to Timbuctoo. With regard to the four months’ distance, it is worthy of remark that M. Caillié was a hundred and seven days proceeding from Teleouel (nearly opposite to Labé) to Timbuctoo, following a rather more easterly course. In several other particulars the narratives of the two English travellers are in accordance with the observations of M. Caillié, such as the traffic in salt, and its being carried on men’s shoulders, the position of Labé and Timbo with respect to Kakondy,[34] the state of agriculture, and the manners of the Foulahs.

The first journey of Mungo Park, in 1795, conducted him to Sego on the Dhioliba, and thence to Silla: these two places were left to the west of M. Caillié’s route, as may be seen on the general map. The only doubtful question respecting the line between them arises from the considerable difference that exists as to the distance of that line from the ocean: but this question is very comprehensive, and embraces too many different points to be examined here. It may, however, be observed that the population assigned by Mr. Park to Sego (thirty thousand) appears somewhat large as compared with that of Jenné, Timbuctoo, and other towns visited by M. Caillié.

In his second journey, in 1805, Mungo Park reached the river at Bamakou; at Sansanding he embarked upon it, in a canoe constructed under his direction, and followed it to Cabra, Houssa, and Boussa. Thus, from the branch which runs into it below Jenné to Cabra, the two travellers followed the same route, and navigated the same stream. Unfortunately Park’s narrative breaks off at Sansanding, on the 10th of November, at the moment of his leaving that town. There is however, a last piece of authentic information on the 19th of November; this is a note addressed by Mungo Park to his wife. It is known that the bark which he contrived for descending the river was a sort of raft or flat boat, formed of two old canoes.

It cannot easily be credited that the traveller advanced upon the river at the rate of six or seven miles an hour as his journal indicates: it has been seen that the direct progress of M. Caillié on the Dhioliba was scarcely more than two miles an hour; in a different season it is true, and at low water. Mungo Park, according to his guide, perished at Boussa, four months after his departure from Sansanding, which account, unless erroneous would infer a stay either at Timbuctoo, Houssa, or Yaour.[35] It is not possible here to institute any comparison between the two narratives, and I think it superfluous to seek other points of resemblance; I confine myself therefore to the observation, that the map of Park’s second journey aggravates the error committed in the first map, in placing the course of the Dhioliba too far eastward of the city of Timbuctoo.[36] It is not consistent with my subject to enter into further particulars concerning that unfortunate expedition, with the commencement and issue of which every one is acquainted; but of the most essential points of which all are equally ignorant, namely the navigation of the river above and below Timbuctoo, and all those observations that were undoubtedly made and written by the celebrated traveller on papers, that there is yet some hope of discovering.

Chronological order obliges me to pass from such a man as Mungo Park to the American sailor Robert Adams.[37] Notwithstanding the efforts of M. Dupuis, editor of Adams’s narrative, and the real merit of the notes appended to it by that learned writer, the general opinion of geographers is opposed to the authenticity of these travels; and it is a remarkable fact, that it is least credited in his own country. Critical observations on this subject have appeared in the North American Review, from which we are compelled to conclude that the original declaration made at Cadiz by Adams before the American consul, totally differs from his recital, made in London, to M. Dupuis. I am far from believing in the reality of Adams’s travels in all their circumstances as described; but a comparison of them with those of M. Caillié belongs to my subject. Robert Adams was wrecked on the coast of Cape Blanco, and was carried to Timbuctoo, where he says he remained five months.[38] He afterwards returned through Toudeyni, Oulad-Deleym, el-Thabla, Ouad-Noun, Mogador, Fez, Mequinaz, and Tangier. Even in his description of Timbuctoo, a striking contradiction occurs. “The city,” he says, “is in a very level plain;” and yet two miles beyond the city, runs the river Marzarah, between two rather high mountains. This river flows to the south west, and is three quarters of a mile wide. He repeats elsewhere that there are mountains to the south of Timbuctoo, and says that sulphur is found there. None of these circumstances have been noticed by M. Caillié, who walked from Cabra to Timbuctoo, and who in thirteen days had abundant leisure to observe them. The city appeared to Adams as extensive, without being as populous, as Lisbon; but between two hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants and ten or twelve thousand there is a great difference. There are no mosques, says he, in Timbuctoo; M. Caillié saw three large and several smaller ones.[39]

Adams asserts that he saw a palace built of clay mixed with herbage, and other houses of wood or earth: the greater part of the houses, according to M. Caillié are of brick, and the king’s palace[40] is nothing more than a small and extremely simple house.

Adams asserts that the men are tattooed; M. Caillié says nothing of the existence of such a custom at Timbuctoo: that there is not a man capable of writing; the new account frequently affirms the contrary: that many elephants are to be seen there; M. Caillié scarcely saw traces of one during the whole course of his travels. Nevertheless these differences which may be partly attributed to his ignorance, as well as to a want of memory, are not sufficient motives for absolutely denying the journey of Adams, or rejecting all the information which he procured. The same may be said of the words of the language spoken at Timbuctoo, which Robert Adams has given to the number of sixteen, eight of which are common to the Kissour vocabulary of M. Caillié,[41] but totally differing from them.

Was it easy, in a country where so many different languages and dialects are spoken, to ascertain the genuine words of the Timbuctoo idiom? The words published by well informed travellers, such as Lyon, Bowdich and others, do not agree better with those collected by M. Caillié. If Adams really visited Timbuctoo, it is possible that he may have interrogated strangers instead of natives.[42] Major Denham alone till the present day has learnt the true words of this language. Other features again of Adams’s descriptions are confirmed by certain Arabian travellers and geographers, even what he says of the river flowing in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. Yet, supposing him to have seen the river, which is to the south, may he not have been mistaken as to the direction of the stream? May it not be the second branch of the river, which M. Caillié saw at Cabra, and which at first runs towards the north-east? It does not however run two miles south of Timbuctoo, but five miles. The river, he says, is called Marzarah: and this name though unknown to M. Caillié, yet exists; and is the name also of a district cited above, after el-Edricy.[43]

Robert Adams is not incorrect in his journeys beyond Timbuctoo: 1st from this city towards the E. N. E., as far as the river mentioned above, where he arrives after ten days’ journey; 2ndly from this point to Toudeyni, twelve or thirteen days’ journey N. N. W. These distances and bearings agree tolerably well with M. Caillié’s route from Timbuctoo to Telig.

Riley, the American, also wrecked on the west coast of Africa, and detained in slavery by the Moorish Chief Sidi-Hamet, gathered from the latter some correct notions relating to the city of Timbuctoo. According to him a small river (it was then dry) runs near the walls of Timbuctoo, and a large river flows to the east at an hour’s distance on horseback. This is undoubtedly the same with that of which he elsewhere speaks as the Zolibib, which is two hours’ march to the south. The city is five times as large as Soueyrah, situated in a vast plain, and built of stone, earth, and reeds. On leaving Timbuctoo, Sidi-Hamet travelled fifty-five days towards the N. E., and eighteen to the north, before he arrived at Touat, and afterwards he proceeded to Fez. M. Caillié did not perceive the little river close under the walls of Timbuctoo; but what is said by Riley shews that it might be dried up. The great river at two hours’ distance to the south, is evidently the Cabra branch, flowing between the east and north. The word Zolibib is unquestionably the same as Dhioliba. The situation of the oasis of Agably (or of Touat), is not consistent with the data by which I was guided in drawing up the general map, namely the astronomical observations made by Major Laing at Ain-salah.[44]

We have seen above that Major Peddie and Captain Campbell took the way of the Rio-Nuñez, to penetrate into the interior: the second alone was able to advance to within a short distance of Timbo; but he could not reach that place. Both swelled the list of victims to the climate and martyrs of science. Captain Campbell, and M. Caillié, as well as Watt and Winterbottom, travelled in nearly parallel lines: their accounts, far from contradicting, mutually confirm each other; but the marches of the French traveller present a multitude of instructive details, and local circumstances which the others had not the opportunity of observing. The rivers and rivulets crossed by these travellers, some of which flow northwards and fall into the Rio-Nuñez, and others south towards the district of Sousou, are distinguished. By combining the observations of all the four a complete idea may be formed of the tract which separates Kakondy from the Fouta-Dhialon and the mountains of Timbo.[45]

We are indebted to the expedition of M. Mollien for some interesting particulars of the unknown parts of the Senegambia, and of the plain of the Fouta-Dhialon. Nothing was wanting to this expedition of discovery but mathematical observations, which it would be unjust to require from him who traverses, for the first time, unknown countries, inhabited by a fanatical population. Geography is a great gainer when it can obtain any positive information, either respecting the lines travelled over, with their bearings, or the relative situation of places, and their nomenclature; or even a view of the importance and population of the country, and the state of agriculture, commerce and industry. A learned geographer, M. Eyriés, has shewn the merit of M. Mollien’s travels, and the acquisitions for which science is indebted to him; it only remains therefore, for me to notice that part of his journey, which coincides with that of M. Caillié. Both crossed the Fouta-Dhialon, but in different directions. The first went from Labé to Timbo; the second passed between those two towns. Their lines of route intersected each other at a point nearer to Timbo than to Labé, but where there is no village; at least the list given by M. Mollien does not present, at the point of meeting which results from the construction of the two routes, any name in common with the much more extended list of M. Caillié. But the latter, in giving the position of Labé with regard to Teleouel, and that of Timbo with regard to Dité, will be found to agree with the itinerary of M. Mollien. In the list of the latter, we find indeed Cambaya and Bandeia; but Bandeia, placed far north of Labé, is a totally different place from Bandeya, which is south west of it. The same may be observed of Cambaya to the north and near Labé, while the Cambaya of M. Caillié lies south-east of that place, and at a considerable distance. The description of the mountains, the cataracts or falls of rivers, the physical aspect of places amid those lofty mountains, (which in some respects may be called the Central Alps of Northern Africa), are features common to both narratives.[46] This spot, as will be seen farther on, is a line of division between immense streams which flow from it in every direction. There is no less analogy between the observations of the two travellers respecting the Foulahs, the Mandingoes, and the various tribes inhabiting those countries.[47]

I now come to a traveller whose recent loss is regretted throughout Europe, the unfortunate Major Laing. A first journey made him advantageously known to the friends of science; a second rendered him illustrious; and both are more closely connected with that of M. Caillié than all the expeditions I have just reviewed. It is fortunate for the French traveller, that he has these points of contact with Major Laing, especially since their discoveries upon comparison appear in perfect accordance. No one is ignorant that, in 1822, Major Laing, after having explored the Timmanie, the Kouranko, and the Soulimana, determined the situation of Timbo and Falaba, the sources of the Mongo and the Rokelle, and penetrated nearly to the source of the Dhioliba, or at least but a short distance from that point so long sought after. He assigned the position and elevation above the level of the sea of Mount Loma, whence this great river takes its rise; and he marked on his map the first part of its course northwards, to the extent of about twenty-five leagues. Amongst these observations are two which serve to verify those of the French traveller: the situation of Timbo and that of the Dhioliba. Now this confirmation, as a single glance at the general map of the travels will shew, leaves nothing to be desired. I placed Timbo there from the documents of the Major, and M. Caillié’s route perfectly coincides. The French traveller met with the Dhioliba, for the first time, at Couroussa, and observed its course. This point and this course, from the mere construction of the new map of the route, are found to continue that traced by the English traveller. At the point of meeting, there appears to be a very small interval left, and I have therefore had no difficulty in supplying this hiatus. Henceforward our knowledge of the thirty-five or forty first leagues of the course of this great river may be considered as perfectly established.

The second expedition of Major Laing, as all the world knows, had for its object the city of Timbuctoo, which he endeavoured to reach by way of Tripoli, not across the Bornou, like his immediate predecessors, but by the direct route of the oasis of Agably. The work, which, in the course of this paper, I have had frequent occasion to quote, has made the reader acquainted with l’Itinéraire de Tripoli, de Barbarie à la ville de Temboctou, by the sheik Hagg-Cassem, revised by M. Delaporte, vice-consul of France; an itinerary which I congratulate myself upon having submitted, in 1818, to the Institute, since my learned colleague M. Walckenaer, declares that it induced him to favour the public with his Recherches géographiques sur l’Intérieur de l’Afrique septentrionale. This document places Timbuctoo at eighty-one days’ distance from Tripoli, and the oasis of Ain-Salah and Agably at thirty-three days, or three sevenths of the way. We are yet ignorant what observations Major Laing made on this route; we only know that he passed Ghadamès and Ain-Salah, and we possess his observation made in the latter place. This observation carries much farther west the position admitted on the maps; but for several reasons I have felt necessary to make use of it: 1st, Major Laing proved himself a correct observer, in his travels in the Timannie; 2ndly, the situation of Timbuctoo, being more westerly than it has hitherto been considered, should carry with it that of the oasis of Touat, which is in the direct line; 3rdly, there is nothing in the itinerary of the sheik Hagg-Cassem, in opposition to the more westerly tendency of this line of route; 4thly and lastly, the computation of the day’s journey appears to me too low, when reduced to fifteen geographical miles. The reasons, which induce me to estimate it at eighteen miles and four tenths, will be found elsewhere: it follows from this calculation, that the oasis of Touat should be brought nearer to the ocean. This result agrees with the more westerly position of the route from Timbuctoo to Tafilet, as shewn by the journey of M. Caillié. Till some of the papers of Major Laing are discovered, (and this hope is not altogether lost, since M. Caillié himself, in traversing the great desert saw a compass, and heard mention of a sextant which had belonged to him), it is impossible to make further comparisons between the travels of the French discoverer and the second expedition of the Major, although both resided in the city of Timbuctoo, almost in the same house, and though the latter nearly reached el-Arawan.

§ II.

ANALYSIS OF THE ITINERARY MAP, AND OF THE GENERAL MAP OF THE TRAVELS.

In constructing the maps here submitted to the reader, I was unable to avail myself of the information procured by our adventurer in his preceding travels, either in the Bondou, amongst the Brakna Moors, or amongst the people in the neighbourhood of Kakondy, the Nalous, the Bagos or the Landamas: these excursions present no continuous progress susceptible of being traced on a map. The fourth excursion alone, therefore, can enter into the present discussion, namely the great journey from the Rio-Nuñez to Tangier, commenced on the 19th of April 1827, and concluded on the 7th of September 1828; I shall consequently confine myself to a mere glance at the former travels. The examination of this route will be divided into three parts.

1st, Journey from Kakondy to Timé, beyond the Dhioliba.

2nd, Journey to Djenné, and navigation of the river thence to Timbuctoo.

3rd, Journey from Timbuctoo to Arbate, and thence to Tangier.

I shall then devote particular attention to the general map of the travels.

ART. I.

EARLY TRAVELS OF M. CAILLIÉ.

M. Caillié undertook his first excursion in 1819. From St. Louis, he repaired to Goree by the usual route, that is to say, he set out from Gandiolle, and followed the seashore without finding any opportunity for making new observations. The whole of this coast is perfectly well known from surveys by officers of the royal navy.

In 1819, he associated himself with M. Adrien Partarrieu, who was about to rejoin the expedition of Major Gray: the latter was then in the Bondou, reduced to grievous extremities, and he sent for M. Partarrieu, to bring him assistance, of which the expedition stood in the utmost need.[48] It is to be regretted that M. Caillié took no notes of his stages during this journey; the line of route crossed that of M. Mollien, as well as that subsequently followed by Captain Beaufort. The caravan passed Boulibaba, a town inhabited by the Foulahs, and the situation of which is unknown. This whole route indeed, deserves to be determined and traced out on the maps: M.Caillié is amply justified in not having noted these particulars, knowing that M. Partarrieu was in possession of more accurate materials; whatever accounts or geographical observations the latter traveller has transmitted being every way worthy of attention. Information is wanting respecting the desert space which on this side separates Cayor from the Ghiolof, respecting Potaco in the country of Bondou, and the whole transverse line from Gandiolle to Boulibané, the capital of that state. M. Caillié left Boulibaba for Bakel, and returned with his fellow-travellers to St. Louis by water, without having any new observations to make upon the road.

M. Caillié’s third journey is more important, not only on account of its object, his initiation into the African manners and customs, and his preparation for an expedition into the interior and all its attendant hardships but more particularly for the curious descriptions which he has given of the journeys of the Moors in the deserts, of their stations hitherto nearly if not wholly unknown, and of the running or stagnant waters which he met with. It is to be wished that it had been possible to trace these positions upon the map; but I had not the means of fixing them with sufficient exactness. It will be remarked in reading this relation that the residence of the King of the Braknas is continually varying; he frequently dwells in the vicinity of the river Senegal and of the station known by the name of the Braknas. But in the wet season he penetrates farther into the desert; and when he removes his camp the entire population travels with him. The extent of space subject to this powerful tribe has been hitherto known only from east to west; but we learn from this account how far it reaches towards the north.

It would be desirable to geographers to learn the precise position of lake Aleg, that of the mountain called Ziré (a word which however is a generic term), and the limits of the great tribe of the Abou-sebas or el-Abou-sebah, the name of which is very differently and incorrectly written upon the recent maps: those who have supposed that the article formed part of the word, and that the termination might be retrenched have made out of it the word labos. Two terminations have been used sebas and sebah; the last only is correct.

I shall confine myself to a remark upon the relative position of Adar and the lake Aleg. According to our traveller, the distance from the one to the other is seven days’ journey: how then shall we reconcile the situation assigned to Adrar, not far from Ouâd-noun, which is more than thirty days distant from the territory usually attributed to the Braknas? It would be requisite that this territory should extend northwards even to the extremity of the Sahara, which is contrary to our received ideas, but perhaps not to the fact.

M. Caillié, having returned in May 1824 to St. Louis, and despairing to obtain the means necessary for accomplishing his purposes, determined to remove to Albreda on the Gambia, and thence to Sierra-Leone, where he succeeded in collecting some resources, by availing himself of his already acquired information. On the 22nd of May, 1827, he embarked at Sierra-Leone for Rio-Nuñez, where he arrived on the 31st. By the 5th of August he was established at Rebecca (or Rabougga): where he employed himself at once in completing the observations and information already extant upon the neighbouring tribes, the Nalous, the Bacos, and the Landamas[49], and in making preparations for his great expedition. He soon quitted this place for Kakondy: his activity, his perseverance, uncommon intelligence, and finally the fortunate circumstances of which he so skilfully took advantage, enabled him to set out on the 19th of the same month for Kankan. Ignorant as the world was of the situation of this town, it would seem that a happy foresight guided him in making choice of this direction, as in following it he crossed the rivers with which it was most important to be acquainted, in such a manner as to enable us tolerably well to assign their position and their distance from the ocean.

ART. II.

MAP OF THE TRAVELLER’S ROUTE.

GENERAL OBSERVATION.

Before entering, in somewhat minute detail upon the examination of M. Caillié’s routes, I should make an observation to warn the reader against the apparent differences which he may observe between the journal of the travels and the map of the route. To render this journal fit for perusal, and not to interrupt perpetually the description of places and people, it has been found necessary to retrench the number of distances and bearings, to such an extent that any one who should attempt to form a plan of the route by the assistance of the narrative alone would fall into serious errors: respecting this circumstance however the reader has been already cautioned in a note in the first volume. The construction of the lines of route upon the map which I have designed is the result of all the indications given by the traveller, and which I have collected in the form of a table. It is also necessary to consult the following article, respecting the use which I have made of these materials, to render them accordant with anterior information and the positions already admitted as incontestable.

The entire journey of M. Caillié, from Kakondy to Tangier occupied five hundred and eight days: from which, in order to obtain the days of actual travel, three hundred and one days of stationary residence in eighteen different places, must be deducted, which will leave two hundred and seven days’ travel. I shall here subjoin a list of these places of residence, but it must not be inferred that the traveller had no convenient means of making observations in other stations, because it will be observed that when he arrived early at any place of consequence, the remainder of the day was spent there.

PLACES OF ABODE.DAYS of stationary residence.PLACES OF ABODE.DAYS of stationary residence.
Kakondy "Djenné 13
L-Antégué1Isaca1
Pandéya1Tircy2
Popoco2Timbuctoo 13
Cambaya19L-A’raouân9
Boharaya1Trarzah (or Teghazza)1
Saraya1Amoul-Gragim1
Courouman-Cambaya2L-Ekseif1
Couroussa1El-Harib13
Kan-kan28Ghourland5
Youmosso1Boheim4
Sambatikila5Fez 1
Timé158Mequinaz1
Douasso1Arbate15
Days of stationary residence.301
Days occupied in the whole journey.508

When it is proposed to offer a new map to the public it is an indispensable duty to submit to inspection the elements which form its basis, and not to ascribe to the work which results from them a greater value than appertains to the materials; these again have no other than what they derive, whether from the instruments and methods which the traveller has employed, or from the manner in which he has collected the observations and information which form the basis of his description. M. Caillié was not provided with any astronomical instruments; he had no watch, and measured the hour only by the height of the sun; but he possessed two compasses which were of great assistance to him. All his bearings were carefully noted by this instrument during the day, and by the stars at night. With regard to distances they were estimated according to several experiments made by himself at Sierra-Leone while preparing for his enterprise. He made a practice of walking over a certain space measured exactly in English miles and of observing the time he spent upon the road. It is thus that he calculated the number of miles in each of his marches from Kakondy to Djenné at three English miles an hour, or two geographical miles and six-tenths: as far as Timbo, however, that is to say during the first days of the journey, this number must be a little increased; this results from the situation of Timbo, as determined by Major Laing; and en passant we may observe that this part of M. Caillié’s journey proves that the ancient position of Timbo, according to Watt and Winterbottom, is totally inadmissible. This rate of two geographical miles six-tenths an hour, or more exactly from two miles four-tenths to two miles six-tenths, can in general only be ascribed to isolated marches, and to caravans lightly laden. An hour’s march of a lightly laden caravan seldom exceeds two geographical miles three-tenths, and that of a numerous caravan heavily laden does not exceed a mile and a half, or a mile and three quarters[50].

On quitting Djenné, M. Caillié travelled by water. The current of the river was slow, the obstacles arising from the faulty construction of the vessel, the ignorance and unskilfulness of the pilot, and the islands and sand-banks, reduce an hour’s direct navigation to two English miles. Different causes producing, however, similar results determine the same value for an hour’s march in the deserts between Timbuctoo and Fez. This number of two miles taken as an average for a long journey[51] admits of almost all possible differences in the degree of expedition with which a caravan will move at different times: while it forms also the intermediate length between the progress of a caravan heavily and of one moderately laden, which was the case with the caravans which M. Caillié accompanied from Timbuctoo, as may be seen by his narrative.

This same deficiency of space with a variation in the bearings, has caused the frequent breaks which I have been obliged to make in the route on the itinerary map. The scale of a millionth part, adopted for this map, is perhaps too small to describe the details and all the angles of the route; I had, accordingly, at first constructed it upon a scale of double dimensions, but this development would have required too much space.

FIRST PART OF THE JOURNEY.

The line of route in the first part of the journey depends essentially upon Timbo. This place is well worthy of attention both in respect to its physical geography and to the European relations with Africa. The English have always considered it as an important station for commerce, but it is not less deserving of study as the culminating point of this part of the continent. It is fortunate that several travellers have made efforts to determine its geographical situation. Major Laing has definitively fixed it in latitude 10° 25’ north, and longitude 12° 54’ west from Paris; its actual elevation above the sea remains to be correctly ascertained. I could not establish M. Caillié’s route upon a better basis; and this I have done, by means of a direction which the traveller obtained from the village of Dité. There the inhabitants informed him that Timbo was at two days’ distance in a certain direction, towards which he immediately applied his compass and found it to bear S. E. ¼ S. Now, we may observe (and it is a remark common to the whole interior of Africa), that the inhabitants are scarcely ever mistaken with respect to the bearings of places; their accuracy in this respect is surprising; it is the effect of habit and of a particular tact. Secondly, I subjected this line of route to the position of the town of Labé, which is tolerably well known though not so certainly as Timbo. Our traveller, when near Teléouel learnt that Labé lay N. E. ¼ E. at two days’ distance. Another confirmation is drawn from the position of Cambaya, in respect to Timbo, which latter, according to the natives, bears W. S. W. at two days’ journey from Cambaya. Here, then, are five points well connected together, Teléouel, Labé, Dité, Timbo, and Cambaya, forming a whole, the main support of which rests upon Timbo[52]. From the nature of these data I have had no hesitation in subjecting the route from Kakondy to them; and the result has been that the hour’s march proves to be a trifle more than three English miles, which, for the commencement of the journey, is not extraordinary.

But, be this as it may, the construction of this route upon the itinerary map has undergone no reduction or modification, and I have confined myself to designing as accurately as the scale would permit, all the angles of this line, the rivers which the traveller crossed or had sight of, the different elevations of the soil with his estimate of them, and in fact all the variations of the ground which he has carefully noted.

At thirty-two miles from Kakondy is a fine river called Tankilita, a name which much resembles that of Tingalinta, marked in several maps at the same distance;[53] and which word is perhaps pronounced Tenkalita; it is the same, according to the inhabitants, with the Rio-Nuñez; this stream, which flows to the north, would, in this case, be only the origin or principal tributary of the Rio-Nuñez.

Other rivulets or rivers, as the Bangala, the Doulinca, and the Kakiriman, a large river in the neighbourhood of the high mountains of Antegua, on the contrary flow towards the south. The soil is chiefly composed of granite in this district and beyond it: the mountains are very high, steep and pointed; chains still increasing in elevation succeed each other; and there are among them mountains two thousand feet in height. All this country, bordering on the Fouta-Dhialon, presents an accumulation of obstacles, which are with difficulty surmounted; and yet men and even women, with heavy loads upon their heads, are continually traversing it. One of these mountains, the Touma, forms the limit between the Tenanka and the Fouta, and beyond it are the cataracts of the Cocoulo, a large and very rapid river. Thence we proceed to the Bâfing, the chief arm of the Senegal: it appears that its source is to the west of Timbo, and that its course is to the west and north, (and not to the east); this, at least, is the inference I draw from the new itinerary; and the north-easterly course of the Tankisso, which belonged to the bason of the Dhioliba, confirms this opinion.[54]

We afterwards descend into vast and very fertile plains, watered by the Tankisso, a large river, with steep banks, the Bandiegue and others less considerable, till we reach the principal river of this part of Africa, the Dhioliba.

On leaving the Soulimana the river takes a northerly direction, as I have said above, on the authority of Major Laing, but afterwards turns to the east. This bend is precisely given by a distance in the new itinerary. It may be observed that the river passes at one day’s journey to the south of Saraya. This bearing is in perfect agreement with the map of Laing’s journey to the Soulimana,[55] which will confirm if necessary the position of Saraya, and my plan of the route. It is known that the actual height of its source above the level of the sea, is, according to Major Laing, about sixteen hundred feet, or a hundred and thirty more than the source of the Rokelle.

It was at Couroussa, in the little country of Amana, that our traveller crossed it. Though so near to its source, it had already attained a breadth of nine hundred feet, and the moderate velocity of two miles and a half. At a short distance from this point, the Yendan, a large river, falls into it; farther on it receives the Milo, coming from the town of Kankan, and the Sarano, which waters the rich plains of the Wassoulo. Proceeding towards the east, and leaving the Dhioliba to the left, the traveller reached Timé.

The situation of Timé is determined by two data: the one, that the march, throughout its whole length from Kakondy, was the same; the caravan was equally numerous, and if the country is less mountainous, the travellers were more fatigued, which forms a compensation: the other is furnished by the meridian altitude of the sun, twice taken at Timé, by means of the length of the shadow. Imperfect as this observation probably was, we ought to have some respect for it, when it coincides with the data of the itinerary; I shall soon resume this subject.

To conclude the examination of this first part of the itinerary, I shall make some remarks on the situation of the country, which appears to be the spot where the waters of this portion of the African continent separate. The first great line of partition is that which divides the waters of the Senegambia from those of the Soudan. The mountains which form it have their nucleus at Timbo, where their distinction into separate ranges is totally lost. Thence one range diverges to the north, and another to the east, and it is remarkable that the divisions of the countries or states correspond with the physical regions. Thus in the country called Fouta-Dhialon, Timbo and its mountains are the sources of the Rio-Grande, the Gambia, the Falemé, the Senegal, &c. The Soulimana and its fountains are the source of the Dhioliba on the one side, and the Rokelle and the Mungo take their rise on the other. From the backs of the mountains of the Fouta-Dhialon spring the tributaries of the Dhioliba, as the Tankisso (which cannot be an arm of the Senegal, as M. Caillié was informed): the spot where it rises is not far from Timbo, and the true point of division between the basons of the north and the east. Thus we have a proximate acquaintance with the relief of the country, which presents a satisfactory whole, where all appears to bear a natural connection. To this result M. Caillié’s observations have materially contributed.

Besides the line of division of which I have just spoken, there is another which separates the waters of the Senegambia from those of the Timannie; it is the result of an attentive examination of M. Caillié’s route. He crossed in fact two considerable rivers: the one, the Kakiriman, which is from seventy to eighty paces in breadth; the other, the Cocoulo, which is forty-five; and both very rapid. He saw them flowing to his right, that is southward, towards the bason of the Timannie.[56] Further on, that is after Popoco, all the rivers which he crossed flow to the left, towards the north, and into the Senegambia. Thus, between the route of M. Mollien and that of M. Caillié, there must be a very elevated mountain crest, running from N. W. to S. E. and passing near the point of intersection of the two routes.

The names of the countries traversed by M. Caillié, in the first part of his travels, deserve a particular examination. According to the circumstantial description of the Baleya, it appears to me, that Major Laing has placed on his map a village of Beilia, where he ought to have marked and where in fact is, the country of Baleya. The Firia of the maps is the same with the Fryia or the Firya of M. Caillié; the Sangaran is nearly where it has been placed upon the recent maps, but on both sides of the river. With respect to the Couranco, if M. Caillié was rightly informed, it extends considerably towards the N. W., whereas Major Laing confines it to the interval between the rivers Rokelle and Camaranca, in the south. This country borders it should seem on the Baleya and the Soulimana. The true source of the Dhioliba is in the Kissi, to the south of Couranco, according to M. Caillié (or of the Soulimana, according to Major Laing). Thus the whole discrepancy between the two travellers is reduced to the lengthening of the country of Couranco; but, are the limits of these petty kingdoms well defined, and are the natives themselves fully agreed as to frontiers which violence is perpetually changing? On many maps the names of Sangala and Couronia are to be found not far from Couranco and Sangara. I suspect they are doing double duty here, as in so many other instances in geography, either through the difference of the orthography or the negligence of the transcriptions. Is not Couronia altered from Couronca (Couranco) and Sangala, by the frequent mutation of the r into l, from Sangara? The Wasselon, or Wassoulo, should be placed much nearer to the ocean, the incontestable consequence of M. Caillié’s march; and already this example affords a presentiment of the fact as relates to the course of the Dhioliba and all the districts which it traverses. This river having also been supposed too much to the east by three or four degrees, the result has been the necessity of lengthening all the distances in order to cover the space between it and Timbo, and the constructors of maps have scattered over this space the names of countries and places, made all the positions too remote from each other, and transformed hamlets into towns and towns into kingdoms. They have not sufficiently remarked the custom common to almost all travellers of lengthening distances by an exaggerated estimate, and have neglected to make allowance for the frequent curves and inflexions of the line of route: a double cause for throwing into the interior many countries much nearer to the sea than they are believed to be.

This want of exactness in the compiling of itineraries, or in laying down those itineraries upon maps, is no novelty in geography; the Ancients have furnished many examples of it, and the maps designed after the positions of Ptolemy are nearly all tainted with this defect; I shall mention Arabia alone as an example. But I must here terminate this short digression, the subject of which would almost furnish matter for a book equally useful and instructive. I also pass over many names of countries with which M. Caillié has made us acquainted, and which will figure for the first time upon the map of Africa, and many more which are already known, and the existence of which is now confirmed by authentic testimony.

SECOND PART OF THE TRAVELS.

The largest portion of the space between Kakondy and Timé may be regarded as an entirely new acquisition for geography; the same remark applies to that which we are about to run over with our traveller. We must not regret that he abandoned the banks of the Dhioliba, and that this circumstance deprived us of information concerning the banks of that river from Couroussa to Djenné; we are indemnified for this loss by his discoveries respecting countries of which we have hitherto been utterly ignorant. Moreover, had he passed through Bamacou, Sego, and Sansanding, he would not have had time to sojourn in them so long as Mungo Park did: he might, perhaps, even have been recognised at Sego, and like Dochard have been detained. Leaving the river far to the west, he became acquainted with the tributary streams which traverse the triangular space comprised between Couroussa, Timé, and Djenné, and with all the positions of this vast tract. He also acquired information concerning the positions situated near the rivers, and of all the towns of any importance, by the attention which he paid to inquire their distance and direction at different points of his route.

I have already observed that, the route from Timé to Djenné having been performed under the same circumstances as the preceding, the estimate of three English miles an hour applies to this line of road; I have therefore admitted this with M. Caillié, and I have had the satisfaction to see that, in forming this line, without any alteration, upon the distances and bearings as he has given them, the latitude of Sego would remain very nearly the same as that which results from the observations of Mungo Park, made in this vicinity.[57] But this point remains for future examination, when I shall discuss the situation of Timbuctoo. Thus the delineation of this portion of the itinerary has not presented any great difficulties. Some topographical circumstances relating to this extent of country merit observation.

Beyond Timé the traveller proceeds for two days more towards the east; he then turns to the (magnetic) north, and continues afterwards in nearly the same direction, which ought to be borne in mind. There are high mountains of granite at Timé, and again at four days’ distance, after which the ground subsides and becomes level. The sand is succeeded by a fertile soil, furrowed by the frequent streams running westward towards the Dhioliba, amongst others the Bagoe, a navigable river, and the Couara-ba. Tangrera, near the commencement of this line, appears to be a large and very commercial town; this point is placed, according to the journal to the E. N. E. of Timé, (east by the compass), but not ten days to the east as appears by the journal.[58] At Tiara a part of the caravan directed their course upon Sansanding, and to the N. W., according to M. Caillié (the line traced on the map gives the true N. N. W.); agreeably to the information which he obtained at Badiarana. Caya is nine days to the north, and Sego nine days farther on; now Sego (as it is placed upon the map, as I have elsewhere said)[59] is situated due north by the compass, with respect to Badiarana; but the eighteen days’ journey, if they really exist, must be very short, occasioned probably by the stagnant waters, and other obstacles, which render a winding course necessary. The situation of Cayaye is determined by its bearing upon Couara, five days to the N. N. W., which places it, as it should be, half way upon the road between Badiarana and Sego. This spot, Couara, doubly merits our present attention. I have had occasion, in another work, to remark that this is a generic word, the sense of which is analogous to that of river. Here we see beside a village of this name a pretty considerable river called Couara-ba, that is to say river-river; we have some examples of a like denomination in Ba-ba, and other names of the same kind; an additional reason for not identifying rivers and currents on account of the similitude of their names, because it is above all things necessary to know whether these names are generic terms, or individual appellations.

In the second place, the Couaraba runs across a country through which, according to the map of Mungo Park, a river called Banimma passes, parallel with the Dhioliba; this would appear impossible since the Couaraba falls into the latter stream, if we may believe the report of the inhabitants.

This portion of the itinerary furnishes data for the site of a country and even of a town called Kong, placed at a considerable distance in all the maps. The bearing of a line directed thither from Douasso is between S. S. E. and E. ¼ S. E. by the compass, which is in fact due south; so much for its longitude: but a distance of forty-five days’ journey would carry it much too far to the south; doubtless the soil is very mountainous upon nearly the whole road, and the journeys very short. If we stop at the seventh parallel north, we shall make each day’s march but seven or eight geographical miles, including the windings of the route.

Still proceeding northward, the traveller crosses large open plains and rich countries, bounded on the left by swamps, lakes, or ponds, which indicate the neighbourhood of a large river. At length he reaches its banks at Galia, opposite to Djenné, at ten miles distance. Before we enter this capital, let us examine some important geographical positions. Nothing could be more obscure than the situation of Bouré; we were ignorant whether there existed a town of this name, and even what was the site of the country of Bouré: in the maps we shall find differences of several degrees. M. Caillié did not visit Bouré; but, in throwing together all the particulars which he collected, I find sufficient data to determine the situation of this town; for there is a town, and a very important one, on account of the vicinity of its rich gold mines, and the commerce of which it is the centre. Bouré stands upon the left bank of the Tankisso, a large tributary, as I have before said, of the Dhioliba, and at three quarters of a day’s journey from the latter in a direct line, or one day’s above the confluence. These particulars which agree well together, were furnished by various persons in various places. Moreover the position of Bouré is given by its distance from Kankan; and its bearing, namely, four or five days to the north, ¼ N. E., in descending Milo. Finally, as a fourth testimony, we learn that Bouré was five days’ march from Couroussa, descending the Dhioliba in a canoe, and afterwards ascending the Tankisso.

Bamakou is known to us from the second journey of Mungo Park; but its actual situation should be considerably further to the west: the information obtained by M. Caillié, and the construction of the map, place this town at about the tenth degree of longitude west of Paris, and in latitude eleven degrees forty-five minutes. The idea of forming an establishment there, is founded upon a real knowledge of the country; it was long ago suggested in memorials submitted to government, pointing out its advantages. The documents of M. Caillié confirm the possibility of the scheme at the present time. He thinks that from this point it is eight or ten days’ journey to the nearest point of the Senegal. Now, it appears, from the map, that, by ascending the Bâfing, as far as thirty leagues above the first cataract of Felou, we should be seventy leagues in a direct line from Bamakou, which agrees very well with what has gone before; this, however, is not the place for examining that question.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE COURSE OF THE DHIOLIBA AS TRACED FROM COUROUSSA TO SEGO AND DJENNÉ.

The course of the river, from Couroussa to Sego, as I have traced it, deviates from the hitherto received opinions;[60] and I am bound to justify so material a change, when submitting it to the judgment of geographers. In laying down the routes of M. Caillié, I was not prepared for such a result, or rather I was apprehensive of finding former conjectures relative to the much more westerly position of the river, and of the towns through which it flows destroyed by actual observations, as an illusion is dissipated by the clear light of truth. It has however proved quite otherwise, and this opinion was far from rash. In fact, beyond Couroussa the river runs due N. E., then eastward, and afterwards for a great distance to the north, instead of pursuing invariably an eastern direction as marked upon the maps. But on what is this latter direction supported? On what foundations does it rest? It has no other cause than the position arbitrarily assigned to Timbuctoo, much too far east, much too far from the mouth of the Senegal. On the more modern maps attempts have, it is true, been made to remove this position farther west; the necessity of bringing it nearer to the ocean has been felt,[61] but it has not been advanced far enough, and has still been retained in nearly the same parallel, instead of being brought at the same time farther north.

If the objection be admitted that M. Caillié has carried his route by water too far west, the result would then be that his route from Timbuctoo to Fez must have been carried too far east: now these two results are opposed to each other, since it is the same line of route, and the same bearing, which lead from Couroussa to Sego, from Sego to Timbuctoo, and from Timbuctoo to Fez.

One powerful consideration is that M. Beaufort has fixed and ascertained the position of the town of Elimané, eastward of Bakel, by a great number of observations; this is the present capital of Kaarta. From that place travellers are daily going to Sego; our unfortunate countryman was himself on the point of proceeding thither, and would have done so but for the destitution caused by the pillage of which he was a victim, and which compelled him to turn back. He was then told that Ségo was only at ten days’ distance; that the bearing of Elimané with regard to Sego was E. S. E.; and that these days’ journeys were journeys on foot. Let us work on these data, and see whether they confirm the course of the river drawn from the itinerary of M. Caillié.

Can these days’ journeys be computed at more than twenty-one geographical miles? This can scarcely be admitted; but should they even be extended to twenty-two miles and in a direct line, it would be on the whole two hundred and twenty miles, which in the above direction would not reach the ninth meridian west of Paris.

While M. Caillié was at Kiebala, he was told the distances and bearings of Sego, which differ very little from the position resulting from that of Elimané in the opposite direction; and if the river was here carried eastward, as it is found in all the maps calculated from Park’s travels, there would no longer be any agreement between these two different sources of information. If, on the contrary, these respective data are preserved, they naturally harmonize, and the northerly course of the stream is confirmed.

Besides, the latitude of Sego, although not yet observed, cannot greatly differ from that of Sami, which is near it: the observation there made by Mungo Park gives thirteen degrees seventeen minutes, and this is perhaps, a little too northerly. The approximative position of Sego, resulting from various data, and which I have adopted as a medium, would thus be, latitude thirteen degrees; longitude, nine degrees west.

Sego, according to the itinerary, lies due north by the needle of Badiarana, that is north seventeen degrees west. This direction exactly passes through the position which I have assigned to Sego, from the observation of Sami, by Mungo Park.

The bearing of Sego is likewise precisely indicated by the N. N. W. line of the compass, drawn from Saraclé.[62]

The course of the Dhioliba, from Sego to Jenné, west and east, and the position of Sego, are still more strongly confirmed by data with which the traveller was furnished at Bamba. Sego is three days’ journey N. W. of that place; and at noon on the fourth, the city of Sego is reached: these are long days’ journeys. The proportion of three to four, or rather of three to three and two thirds, will be actually found as I have traced it.

Lastly, it is elsewhere expressly said, that Sego is five days west of Jenné; the new map gives W. ¼ S. W. All these data, it is plain, perfectly coincide; and although they are not authenticated by a single good celestial observation, yet they agree too well together to allow one to venture upon deranging the whole itinerary of our traveller, and carrying the city of Sego and with it the whole course of the river, two or three degrees farther east, when besides there exists no observation whatever, either geographical or astronomical, for carrying the river and its towns farther into the interior of the continent.

The position of Djenné, the arms of the river by which it is surrounded, its situation in a large island apart from the Dhioliba, the stream which branches off in the neighbourhood of Sego, and rejoins the river at Isaca, four days further on, are so many circumstances all equally new, and which tend greatly to modify our previous notions. Looking at this complication of details, the obscurity and contradictions contained in all the accounts of the negroes on the subject of Djenné may be easily conceived; but, upon an attentive study and careful comparison of the different data, we arrive at a tolerably just idea of these localities: the reader will judge whether I have attained this object in the course of these observations and in the drawing here submitted to him. Unquestionably, there yet remain many circumstances to be learnt relating to this double branch of the Dhioliba, the true form and actual extent of the island of Djenné, and its double or perhaps triple communication with the branches of the river; for every step yet gained in our acquaintance with this mysterious river seems to throw us to a greater distance from the ultimate object: it is, therefore, to confess the truth, nothing more than a slight sketch that I have presumed to delineate; time will rectify our yet imperfect notions, and complete the observations of our indefatigable traveller, when the use that I have made of them may be judged of. M. Caillié presumes the island of Djenné to be eighteen miles in circumference; but the construction of the route and the general appearance of the map induce me to believe that it is of greater extent: I also suspect, that the junction of the island with the western branch of the river cannot be seen from Djenné, but only its junction with the eastern branch; this would be a natural consequence of the westerly situation of Sego, with regard to Djenné. For the rest, I refer to the observations in the following article, that this discussion may not be prolonged here.

I shall not stay to inquire how it happened that Mungo Park knew nothing of a second branch of the river, when he proceeded from Sego to Silla. I shall likewise abstain from entering into further developments respecting the course of the Dhioliba beyond Djenné. The narrative furnishes ample details, not less instructive than new, respecting the course of the river, its depth, its immense width in some parts, to the extent of half or even a whole mile. One of the most interesting points of this route by water is the great lake Debo, or Dhiebou, which M. Caillié met with half-way between Djenné and Timbuctoo. I cannot help thinking that this lake is the same which figures on the maps under the name of Dibbie, but with a widely different position, form, and extent.

The enthusiasm of our traveller at the sight of this sea of fresh water must appear excusable to every one, and his eagerness to take possession, in a manner, of the spot, on behalf of his country, by giving names to three islets situated in it, cannot but be generally approved. Twenty three years earlier, Mungo Park had accomplished this same navigation, perhaps, had also given names to these little mediterranean isles. Who, either in France or in England would have blamed him for this national feeling, had the account of his discovery reached Europe?.

The lake has two divisions, one eastern, the limits of which may be seen, the other western, extending beyond the reach of sight. M. Caillié is ignorant whence this mass of water proceeds; is it from a tributary, or is it, on the contrary an efflux from the inundations of the Dhioliba? This geographical question, on many accounts an important problem, remains then in obscurity; further on I shall offer a rather probable opinion[63].

To the east of this lake are sands and sterile hills; to the west, it is lost in vast marshes; the navigation of the latter division must be extremely difficult. Passing from Djenné to Timbuctoo, the traveller navigates the eastern division of the lake, keeping close to the right bank.

Below the lake (on the map) a winding of the river will be observed, which perhaps appears forced and unnatural; it results from the lines of route as noted down and the difficulty of substituting any thing else has alone determined me to retain it, although doubtful of its accuracy: an error, however, in this tracing will have little influence on the general result.

In approaching Cabra, the port of Timbuctoo, M. Caillié perceived to the right a large arm of the river, running E. N. E. and he continued to navigate the other, holding a north-west course. He was informed that the latter rejoined the first at some distance; but this important fact has not been verified by any European eye; the traveller could not have ascertained it, without repairing himself, at considerable risk, to the point of junction. As for the inhabitants, perfectly indifferent as to obtaining or transmitting intelligence of this sort, they spoke very vaguely to him on the subject. The problem, therefore, of the ulterior direction, and of the final termination of these branches of the river, is yet to be resolved; I defer this discussion to a subsequent article[64], as well as the particular question of the situation of Timbuctoo[65]; and shall conclude this with repeating, that the itinerary from Timé to Galia, and from Galia to Timbuctoo, has been framed on the calculation of two miles an hour.

THIRD PART OF THE TRAVELS.

The progress of M. Caillié through the desert has also been estimated at two miles an hour, at least as far as Tafilet, and that for reasons explained at the beginning. The principal interest presented by this part of the route consists in the exact information it contains of the wells and stations to be met with amidst this ocean of sand. Science is indebted to M. Caillié for numerous and correct notions of these vast solitudes, which travellers cannot confront without consternation. Thus, we knew the spot called el-Araouan only by the wells found there, as a place at which the caravans usually fill their water-skins; but our traveller informs us that it is an important town: seeing it thus surrounded on all sides by the deserts, we are the less surprized at the situation of Timbuctoo in the midst of the sands.

The wells of Telig are remarkable for the vicinity of granite mountains, and for the neighbourhood of Toudeyni, which, in all the maps, is carried far to the west of the line between Timbuctoo and Tafilet. M. Caillié’s description leaves no room for supposing that he is treating of some other place of the same name, since this city is well known to be a great mart for salt. I pass over in silence the immense banks of moving sand, and the rare accidents of the soil, which scarcely vary throughout this long tract of road, the dreary uniformity of which is interrupted only by the wells. Beyond the wells of Mayara appear the last branches of the chain of Mount Atlas. The granite shews itself at first in fragments and hillocks, afterwards in high hills and steep mountains. Twelve days’ journey beyond el-Harib, we enter the district of Tafilet. Here the report of M. Caillié is widely different from the received opinions: 1st. He heard nothing of any town of Tafilet, it is merely, he says, the name of a country. It is nevertheless possible that a town may have heretofore existed there, and have disappeared like so many other towns of central Africa. I observe in the travels of Ebn-Hassan from Fez to Tafilet, quoted in the Recherches sur l’Afrique septentrionale[66], &c. that the territory only of Tafilet is mentioned and not the town; which would support the account of M. Caillié. 2ndly. This country is much nearer to the meridian of Fez than it is marked on all the maps[67]. 3rdly. It is farther north[68], Ghourland, M. Caillié informs us, is the principal place in this territory; near it is a place called Afilé, and another of the name of Boheim[69], besides Ressant, the residence of a governor under the Emperor of Morocco. M. Caillié mentions another position unknown upon the maps; a large town called Rauguerute or Rogrut, S. S. E. from Morocco.

The narrative presents but few details concerning the crossing of Mount Atlas; it is not a matter of surprize that, after so many fatigues and perils, our adventurer should be impatient to reach the end of so long a journey. However, I observe in this part the course of a little river or brook, called the Guigo, flowing from Soforo (or perhaps from beyond) towards M-Dayara, and probably as far as Tafilet. Upon carefully examining the traveller’s route, we perceive that he first saw the Guigo, or had some knowledge of it, between Rahaba, and L-Eyarac, afterwards at Tamaroc, and Kars; that he crossed it at L-Eksebi; and that the river fertilizes the environs of N-Zeland, L-Guim, Guigo, and Soforo. The water-mills which our traveller saw at Soforo again announce the presence of the same river. Thus the part of its course with which we are acquainted will be at least fifty leagues in length and probably much more. I do not know whether it passes to el-Fez, where however several different rivulets are seen.

Neither was the journey across the Sahara altogether unprofitable with regard to our knowledge of the oases and of the stations which it contains. The distances of these places from the several points of his route were reported to our traveller; and these distances are very different from those previously admitted: but are there two accordant testimonies concerning these positions? Each caravan and each tribe makes a different estimate of the intervals; and if, to the actual mistakes which the Moors and natives may commit, the errors in which they are interested be added, what a source of uncertainty will these present! Therefore, though I have fixed upon the general map the points of Tychyt, Oualet, Ouadan or Hoden, Ouad-Noun, &c., according to the indications of M. Caillié, combined with other documents, I consider them as very uncertain. Oualet, says our traveller is at ten days’ distance from el-Araouan, to the west, fifteen north from Sego, and eighteen from Ouadan: this point falls near nineteen degrees of latitude and nine degrees forty minutes longitude west from Paris: the three lines meeting at nearly the same point. But if it agrees with the three data given above, it is at variance with the situation of Oualet, as hitherto admitted, either from Mungo Park, or the testimony of the natives. It is perhaps another place named Oualet, not that intended by Mungo Park. Can it be the Gualata of Leo Africanus? but his description suits this no better.[70] In this case Gualata would be much farther to the south than is generally supposed. It is however certain that geographers cannot confound the Walet of Mungo Park with Gualata.

Although M. Caillié has not mentioned Agably which is believed to be the chief place of the oasis of the Touats, I have been obliged to insert it in the map, because the traveller gives a position called Touat much nearer to the route from Timbuctoo to the Tafilet. It is not surprising that several places should be so called, because the wandering tribe bearing this name occupy a considerable portion of the great desert, from the south of Morocco to beyond Agably. Besides, the situation of this place, which could not have been brought within the limits of the map, if we were to adopt the mere reports of the Arabs, to which geographers have had recourse, falls there, on the contrary, according to the astronomical observation of Major Laing, who fixes it much farther to the west. This observation is published, for the first time; I owe it to my learned friend Captain Sabine, himself united in the most affectionate intimacy with the unfortunate traveller, who transmitted it to him after sustaining a first attack on leaving this oasis. Nor was it at Agably that Major Laing made the observation, but at Ain-Salah, belonging to the same canton and at two days’ journey from it; this place is cited in all the itineraries between Tripoli and the western Soudan. According to the Major its situation is twenty nine minutes west of Paris, and twenty-seven degrees eleven minutes thirty seconds north latitude. Notwithstanding the difference between this and the situation allotted to this town upon all the maps, I have thought it right to enter it in the general map of the travels.

The other places of the Sahara, such as Akka, Tatta, el-Kabla,[71] for want of new data, have been fixed from a comparison of those upon which the map of M. Walckenaer, or those of Messrs. Lapie, Brué, Berghaus, &c., were formed. With respect to the names of tribes and colonies, I have endeavoured to place them with all possible exactness, and have been obliged to differ from several recent maps in other respects very valuable.

To the right of his route, and in front of el-A’raouan, M. Caillié heard of an important situation, that of Sala; but the accounts were too vague to be compared with the descriptions of the Arabs.

I shall finish the examination of this third part of the travels by the general list of the wells and stations of the desert on the line from Timbuctoo to Fez; which line appears to be the most advantageous and the shortest, because it is the most frequented. It seemed to me that the collection of all these names into a single table might be of some utility. It will be remarked that Toudeyni does not appear in this list: may not this place be without water fit for drinking? and has Telig succeeded it as a more convenient station for caravans? I submit this doubt to the reader.

NAMES OF PLACES, wells and stations.HOURS of march[72]DAYS.DEPTH OF THE WELLS, and quality of the water.
From Timbuctoo to el-A’rouan.66660 feet in depth; the water brackish, unwholesome, abundant. Station.
Mourat""1 foot; water brackish.
Telig[73]111[74]83 or 4 feet; water brackish and abundant.
Crames32½5Wells sometimes dry.
Trazas or Tghazah917 or 8 feet; water very salt and bad.
Amoul-Gragim27½37 or 8 feet; water muddy, salt, but not bad.
Amoul-Taf25½34 feet; water sweet, but in small quantity.
L-Ekseif193Excellent water.
Marabouty40½4Shallow.
L-Guedea324Tolerably good water.
Mayara4544 or 5 feet; water very salt and bad.
Sibicia2127 or 8 feet; water clear and delicious.
El-Harib232Station.
El-Hamid192From 20 to 25 feet; water good.
Mimcina91Large town of the Drah.
Yeneguedel813 feet; water good and abundant.
Faratissa712½ feet; water very good.
Boharaya9212 feet; water sweet and excellent.
Goud-Zenaga61
Zenatyia[75]71From 20 to 24 feet; water pretty good and abundant.
Chanerou61Wells frequented by the Berbers.
Nyela or Ain-Yela91The water is taken up by hand; it is abundant and good.
Ghourland61Station.; chief town of Tafilet.
Boheim[76]1½1
Afilé1½1
Taneyara4½"A village without water.
Marca31Deep wells; garden.
M-Dayara91Town.
Rahaba31A large village.
L-Eyarac3"A hamlet.
Tamaroc5"A village on the banks of the Guigo.
Kars4"A village.
N-Zeland or Ain-Zeland81A hamlet.
L-Eksebi111A large village.
L-Guim10½1A small village.
Guigo101A Berber village.
Soforo111A handsome town.
Fez71The ancient capital of Morocco
ARTICLE III.

REMARKS ON THE GENERAL MAP OF THE TRAVELS AND THE ELEMENTS WHICH SERVE FOR ITS BASIS.

Having completed the construction of the itinerary, it remained to subject all these lines of route to the invariable data of which geography is already possessed. I first sought among these data for points common to M. Caillié’s march: they are unfortunately very few in number. How then could I flatter myself, whatever trouble I might take, with whatever care I might combine all the data, hazarding nothing without some authority to support it, that I should produce any thing beyond a mere essay? If it should be hereafter confirmed by the observations of travellers furnished with astronomical instruments, the only merits of this work will consist in fortunate combinations; if it should be falsified by future discoveries, still it will have called for the criticism of geographers, and will consequently not have been useless to science. In submitting to the reader results differing from those hitherto admitted, I wish to warn him against an error, too common, especially in map-making, that of giving the preference to the more recent publications, and to place confidence in them in proportion as they are so. I am far from desirous of usurping this species of interest, to the prejudice of geographical works in general estimation.

The points common to the route of M. Caillié and to the list of positions considered by geographers as perfectly or sufficiently established, are confined to the following: the points of the Western coast of Africa, Kakondy, Timbo, Sami and Yamina (for the latitude), Bakel, Elimané, Fez; and I shall add to them the position of Ain-Salah, though published here for the first time. With respect to the positions of Djenné, Timbuctoo, and the places situated in the great desert, the uncertainty is so great, that there is no resting any solid calculation upon them, and they are of no use in verifying the exactness of new itineraries.

Thus we are reduced, for a space which comprehends twenty five degrees of latitude and from ten to twelve degrees of longitude, to eight points in the interior.[77] Still, the point whence the traveller set out on the first part of his travels, the position of Timbo in the middle of this part, and the very probable knowledge of the parallel of Sego, a town which is connected with the itinerary and attaches itself to the fixed points of the Senegambia, with the almost certain situation of Fez, form a first basis, which may serve to verify as well the inflections of the route as the length of the lines travelled over. I began by establishing the lines from Kakondy to Timé, from Timé to Djenné and Timbuctoo, and from Timbuctoo to el-Araouan; first, by supporting them separately upon Timbo, the parallel of Sego, and the position of Fez; and secondly, by attending to the declination of the compass. These lines were at first formed without any other modification than the necessary substitution of the true north for the magnetic north, in the night journeys. The direction of the first line from Fez gave me a very fair position for Timbuctoo; and that of the second line from Timé furnished me with another but little different, and which the situation of the parallel of Sego brought considerably nearer to the first: whatever uncertainty still remained has been cleared up by new data, of which it would have been difficult not to have made some use.

Whilst at Timé, the idea struck M. Caillié of observing the length of the shadow of a style at midday; his long stay there gave him an opportunity of making the observation twice: the first time, which was on the 30th of October 1827, the height of the style, with every reduction, was 0,706 metre; that of the meridian shadow was equal to 0,2945 metre.[78] The second observation was made on the 1st of November 1827; but this measurement cannot have been taken with so much precision. It was the shadow, properly speaking, which was measured, that is to say, the shadow terminating distinctly and without the penumbra. The calculation gives for the latitude as nearly as possible nine degrees.[79]

This being admitted, I perceived that the construction (made in the manner before explained) of the line which represents the first part of the journey, gave to the situation of Timé the same latitude within a few minutes. This agreement convinced me that no change was required in the construction; so small a difference, considering the insufficiency of the means employed, might indeed be regarded as an entire concordance, and I could not but suppose that it was probably the effect of a fortunate compensation for many errors on the contrary side. I might therefore look upon Timé as a point nearly fixed, and leave it to establish the other two lines. The longitude of Timé, resulting from the preceding operations, is nine degrees two minutes west of Paris. Thus Timé would be at a nearly equal distance from the equator and from the meridian of Paris.

The bearing of the line from Kakondy to Timé, according to the travels of M. Caillié, having been confirmed, has given me confidence in the bearings of the rest of the route. I have therefore first laid down the line from Timé to Timbuctoo, and that from Timbuctoo to Fez, such as they result from the construction of the map of the route. The point of Fez being fixed, it became necessary to modify a little the absolute length and the direction of these lines, to confine myself between the two points of Timé and Fez, and I have proceeded upon a proportionate reduction. The difference was nothing extraordinary for so long a route, amongst so many obstacles and difficulties which the indefatigable traveller had to overcome. It amounted on the whole, upon near three thousand English miles,[80] to about one hundred and fifty, or a twentieth part of the space travelled over, and the total angular difference is less than six degrees upon the angle between the meridian of Kakondy and the direction upon Arbate. The latitude of Timbuctoo, obtained by this means, is near seventeen degrees fifty minutes north.

Possessing upon this latitude no geographical data properly so called, having only the routes of caravans, and not even the hours of march, but merely the reckoning of the day’s journey, so that to the uncertainty of the length of the journeys is added the still greater uncertainty of the pace of the caravans, according to whether they were more or less numerous, whether composed of camels more or less laden, or only of pedestrians; together with our ignorance as to the number and situation of the forced halts which they make in the desert, either on account of wells, or of those unforeseen accidents which will happen in these terrible peregrinations;[81] in the midst, I say, of so many causes of hesitation, which ought to warn geographers against the employment of the vague itineraries of the Arabs and the Moors, could I grant less confidence to the route of M. Caillié than to the marches of the Africans?

These routes are constantly divided by hours: the rests are noted with exactness, and they are never undecided with respect to the length of the marches: it only remains then to estimate the pace, and we are enlightened on this latter subject by the composition of the caravan. For these reasons, and others still which it would occupy too much time to explain; I have not thought it right to take preceding itineraries into account in combining the elementary facts necessary for ascertaining the position of Timbuctoo.

I should, however, have still remained in doubt, and have abstained from offering an opinion had there not been other new data susceptible of comparison with the itinerary of M. Caillié; I mean the measure of the meridian shadow which he took at Timbuctoo itself. This observation was made by the same method as that at Timé: this proceeding is undoubtedly very imperfect, but, for want of others I think it should not be entirely neglected. On the 1st of May 1828 our traveller planted a style of the height of 0,635 metre; he measured, at noon, the shadow of this style and found it equal to 0,030 metre.[82] The calculation gives seventeen degrees fifty one minutes north latitude. I must repeat here the reflection that this agreement may very probably result from contrary errors which have balanced each other: but as it is impossible to discover the points in which the errors lie, or the limit of their extent, the final result is all that can be obtained.

I will add one consideration which will not have escaped those geographers who have studied the calculation of probabilities. In a series of observations made under the same circumstances, and especially by the same observers, the greater the number, the more probable is it that their amount will approach to the total quantity required. When there is no reason that the errors committed should be on one side rather than another, they mutually destroy each other, and the more so, the more the observations are multiplied. There is even a rule which teaches us how much the sum found differs from the truth; its discovery belongs to the learned geometrician, who is at present the organ of the French Institute for mathematical science. Knowing the error which may have occurred in an observation, it must be multiplied by the square root of the total number of observations. Thus, instead of growing with this number the total possible error decreases proportionably. For example, for four observations it would be represented by two, and for a hundred observations, by ten only. The proportion of total errors is therefore as ¹⁰⁄₂ whereas the proportion of the number of observations is as ¹⁰⁰⁄₄: thus the error is but the fifth part of what it would be proportionally in four observations.[83] Hence it follows that the more observations are multiplied the more any imperfection in the processes by which they have been made will be corrected.

Are we not authorised to apply this principle to the length of M. Caillié’s stages, since the number of the lines of route is not less than six hundred and thirty three? I may add that the same remark applies to the angular deviation. Indeed, considering the total distance between the meridian of Timé and that of Fez, or the difference in longitude (which is equal to one degree forty four minutes) as being the real sum of all the angles of the route to the east or west of the first, it will follow that the forming of the lines of bearings noted by the traveller (or the calculation of the angles, which is more exact) gives a total variation, so much nearer to the above difference of longitude as the number of bearings is greater; and this number is also six hundred and thirty three. As it has been seen above, I have found the deviation equal to less than six degrees, and it has been easy to divide it over the whole line.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE SITUATION OF TIMBUCTOO, AND PARTICULARLY ON ITS LONGITUDE.

From the determination of the lines which join Timé, Djenné, Timbuctoo, and Fez, and from the latitude of Timbuctoo thus fixed according to the itinerary at seventeen degrees fifty or fifty one minutes,[84] necessarily results a more westerly longitude of this city, than has been hitherto supposed, and even than that which I had formerly admitted, and which brings its position much nearer to the ocean than any geographer has placed it.

Such is the importance of the situation of Timbuctoo that I deem it necessary to insist again on the discussion of the elements; in order, not to establish it with certainty (I am far from believing that I have accomplished this) but to furnish the reader with new means of approaching the truth, as nearly as the state of our knowledge will permit. It is true that a single astronomical observation made by a skilful observer, furnished with good instruments, and worthy of confidence, might overthrow these inductions; but it is equally true that till we are possessed of such an observation, no geographer can fix this main position on a map, without deducing all the reasons which determine him, especially if he dissents from the opinions of his predecessors.

Timbuctoo is placed, on the general map of the travels, in the latitude resulting from the observation of the shadow and the length of the route from Timé to Timbuctoo. A great part of this route, it may be observed, is in a northerly direction, which was far from being conjectured from the course of the river in this quarter. If Mungo Park could have acquainted us with the particulars of his journey beyond Sansanding, we should not have been so long uncertain of this direction, which has uniformly been carried easterly, and that because the situation of Timbuctoo was imagined (as it is still) to be very central in the continent. Park’s map (travels in 1805) places it under the meridian of Paris; Clapperton at 0° 5° west. Rennell at 2° 3°: but the data of which we have been for ten years in possession oblige us to bring it nearer to the ocean; M. Walckenaer has done so, in adopting a longitude from nine to twelve minutes more westerly. I have always proposed to carry this position much farther west, and even placed it four years ago four degrees west.[85] M. Brué has since adopted 3° 34’: perhaps it should have been advanced as far as the sixth degree. For the reasons I have elsewhere given, the route from Timbuctoo to Fez cannot be fixed at more than two English miles an hour: to this rate I have reduced the computation of M. Caillié, who at first estimated the whole route equally at three miles. Now the line of route thus constructed and resting upon Arbate, a well known position, carries Timbuctoo very near the eighteenth degree north; that is to say, from 17° 50’ to 17° 55’; had not this been shortened a little, the city would have been carried to 19°, or 20°, a position far too northerly, and totally inadmissible. Moreover, the line from Timbuctoo to Arbate would be ten degrees too far west; it would also be increasing the declination to 27° instead of 17°, which seems to be its amount for the mean meridian.

But, if the bearing of the line from Timbuctoo to Fez resulting from the itinerary, and that of the line from Timé to Timbuctoo, are preserved, these two intersect each other about the parallel of 17° 50’. This latitude agrees so well with that resulting from the height of the shadow, 17° 51’ that we derive from these data a very satisfactory confirmation. Now the line of the parallel 17° 51’ and the two lines of direction meet, all three, on nearly the same meridian, the sixth west from Paris.

No positive data are yet known which can better fix the longitude: not only are the itineraries of the Moors too vague, but they support themselves upon the Mediterranean, while M. Caillié’s routes, though they are continued to the Mediterranean, support themselves upon the ocean; which is much nearer than the former, and also upon the known positions of Timbo and Fez.

Suppose, however, it were determined, notwithstanding all these reasons to withdraw Timbuctoo farther to the east by a degree or more, it would then become necessary greatly to increase the journeys from Kakondy to Timé. In making them three English miles and three fifths an hour, the true measure has probably been somewhat exceeded, but the situation of Timbo compelled this; while, to place Timbuctoo on the third degree of west longitude, would be to suppose a march of more than four miles and a half an hour.

Another circumstance here comes to our assistance: it is that by carrying it farther towards the east, we must suppose the traveller greatly and constantly deceived in a western direction on his journey from Timé to Timbuctoo, and, on the contrary, in going from Timbuctoo to Fez, he must have made a similar and not less considerable error in all his bearings towards the east. How should we account for this singularity?

From all these considerations, could I risk changing the result of M. Caillié’s itinerary and altering the construction of his route? could I, in short, without sufficient motive, give the preference to any one map over another? Some judgment may be formed upon this question from the diversity of situations assigned to Timbuctoo by different authorities:

In1720,the longitude according to Delile0°0’Wt.of Paris
1749,d’Anville215
1790,Major Rennell230
1796,Park’s first map10
1805,Park’s second map00
1821,M. Walckenaer242
1821,M. Lapie244
1822,Clapperton050
1828,M. Brué334

It is on the English maps, even those of most recent date, that this town has always been placed the most to the east. The advantage of a more eastern position relatively to the proximity of a great river flowing into the Gulf of Guinea would be evident: but this proximity is nothing less than certain. By a coincidence worthy of notice the English maps have also brought Timbuctoo farther to the south than any others except Delile, as will appear from this table of different latitudes:

North latitude according to
Delile15°0’Park’s second map16°27’
Clapperton150M. Walckenaer1738
M. Lapie1738
M. Brué (after Clapperton)150D’Anville1915
Park’s first map1514Major Rennel1938

I return to the latitude of Timbuctoo. Ain-Salah, in the oasis of Touat, is usually placed about 1° east of Paris and in 24° 30’ north latitude; but Major Laing’s observation, as communicated to me by Captain Sabine, is very different, namely: 0° 29’ west of Paris, and 27° 11’ 30". M. Walckenaer has calculated the distance from this oasis to Timbuctoo at six hundred and seventy five geographical miles: it is evident that this measure, if admitted, would advance Timbuctoo towards the north to between the 17th and 18th degree; now, it happens that this distance of six hundred and seventy five miles is found exactly between the two points as placed upon the present map. This last coincidence, which I remarked after my labour was concluded, contributed still farther to dispel my doubts. I have estimated the day’s journeys at 18’ four tenths and not with M. Walckenaer at 15’; but it was the medium journeys, not those of the great caravan, which formed the object of his researches. It appears then that the approximative situation assigned to Timbuctoo, 6° west and 17° 50’ north, satisfies the different data, and the best itineraries, that it agrees with the positions of Timbo and of Fez, and that it is not contradicted by Mungo Park’s observations on the latitude, taken at Sami and Yamina; finally, it is confirmed by the particulars brought from Elimané by Captain Beaufort.

Fifty four days’ journeys will be found on my map from Timbuctoo to Tatta; an itinerary cited by M. Walckenaer (p. 297) marks fifty. The fifty four days from Fez to Timbuctoo according to Mr. Jackson[86] also agree: it is the same with the sixty-four days from Timbuctoo to Morzouk. Fewer than twenty eight journeys are reckoned from Houssa to Timbuctoo, according to the itinerary of Mohammed Ebn-Foul; this distance is too short on our map, and on all the others, even those in Clapperton’s travels. There are, besides, other reasons for believing that there may be two towns or countries called Houssa[87].

I do not compare with the map the distance reckoned between Timbuctoo and the town of Tafilet, because M. Caillié heard no mention of a town so called: he affirms that none such exists, in which case it is not possible to make use of this distance.

I shall add in conclusion of this discussion, that nothing can authorise us to depart from the observations of latitude taken by Mungo Park, at Yamina and Sami, namely, 13° 15’ and 13° 17’, and to remove these points much further to the south, as M. Brué has done upon his map, otherwise so rich in details and nomenclature. The determination which I propose for the latitude of Timbuctoo agrees better with these observations, the only ones we possess in this direction as far as Timbuctoo.

From the whole discussion, it results, first, that the different lines of route forming the itinerary map have been subjected to divers conditions resulting from the journal of the traveller, from anterior observations and from good geographical data; secondly, that the hour’s journeys, estimated at three English miles, mean measure, between Kakondy and Galia or Djenné, are a little increased between Kakondy and Timé, in consequence of the position of Timbo; thirdly, that, from Djenné to Timbuctoo and thence to Fez, the average of two miles an hour has been a little modified by the real difference in latitude of the two extremities. I have now only to speak of the bearings and measure of the lines of march.

BEARINGS OF M. CAILLIÉ’S ROUTES.

The reduction of the true north of our traveller’s lines of route was one of the most important points; and to arrive at their actual bearing, I was assisted by a single new datum only; namely, the observation of the angle of the meridian shadow with the magnetic north. The travels furnish two of these observations: the one, of the 30th of October 1827, gave the N. N. E.; the other of the 1st of November, the N. ¼ N. E., that is to say, the compass had on these days a declination of 22° 30’ and 11° 15’ to the east. I was then obliged to have recourse to other researches to determine between these two measures, and to avail myself of several observations taken by Mungo Park and other travellers.

The following are the names of the places and observations; I omit their geographical situations:

At Badoo,Mungo Park[88]14°6’E. declin.
On the Bâfing,idem 1630
On the Dhioliba,idem 1636
At Yamina,idem 1711
At Sansanding,idem 1740
At Bathurst,Captain Owen[89]1756
At St. Louis,Maritime Annals[90]1732
At St. Mary,M. le Prédour[91]1725
At Cape Roxo,idem 1720

In Mungo Park’s journal of his second expedition, as printed in London, is a tracing of the Gambia,[92] from which a smaller declination would result: it appears evident to me, that some error has crept in here, either in the copying or in the engraving, when the coincidence of the preceding observations from five different travellers is considered, and particularly that of Park’s own observations.[93] To these might be added the declination observed by Major Laing in his first journey, and that which has been observed at Sierra-Leone and other places; but this inquiry would be superfluous. It will be remarked, that the mean term of 16° 55’ declination east, is also the mean between the two observations of M. Caillié; but, as the observation of Badoo seems hither small compared with all the others, I have thought myself entitled to adopt 17° as the mean declination and to subject the whole route to it.

I shall here make another remark respecting the situation of places marked upon the two maps, upon information communicated by others, and not direct observations; it is that the natives are extremely clever at indicating the direction of places at a greater or less distance: they are seldom mistaken in this indication; and they point out with the finger with great accuracy, the direction which must be taken to go in a straight line to a given spot. This observation has been made before. When a certain direction was thus pointed out to M. Caillié, he remarked some particular object on the line, and applied his compass to it at the first favourable opportunity. These bearings have been extremely useful to me for the points situated beyond the route; without this assistance I should have found it impossible to trace, even tolerably, the course of the Dhioliba above Djenné.

COMPUTATION OF THE DAYS’ JOURNEYS.

The geography of countries which have not been explored by observers furnished with instruments is usually reduced to the calculations of days’ journeys. What can be more vague or doubtful than such documents? The most learned discussion (as remarked above), can only elicit feeble scintillations from them. How are contradictory accounts to be reconciled? How are common days’ journeys to be distinguished from double days, or even longer still? It is evident, that itineraries must be examined and compiled from the number of the hours journeys, and not by the days, and there would then be a less degree of uncertainty. Should European travellers themselves compute their lines of march by the days’ journeys? And how happens it that it is not an established rule, in exploring distant and unknown countries, to keep an exact account of the hours and every fraction of time? The journal of M. Caillié, although he has not rigorously complied with this condition, at least presents an uninterrupted continuity of marches measured by time, generally by hours, sometimes by half-hours and even quarters. But for this persevering (and amidst so many fatigues truly laudable) attention, positive geography would have gained very little by these long and toilsome peregrinations.

In a memoir inserted in the eighty-first volume of the Philosophical Transactions, Major Rennell has fixed the day’s journey of a caravan heavily laden at sixteen geographical miles (or minutes of a degree) and one sixth; and that of a light caravan, at seventeen miles and one third. It appears to me, that the second of these results is too small, and especially that an intermediate term should have been established, between the light and the heavy caravans, for there is a vast difference between the two extremes. The former certainly advance more than twenty geographical miles a day, especially, as they are able to continue their journey longer, that is to say, for a greater number of hours each day. Then, again, it would be convenient to fix an intermediate valuation between sixteen and twenty miles, that is to say, the day’s journey of the medium caravans, if they may be so called. I find Major Rennell’s appreciation of the first denomination of days’ journeys confirmed by the experience of the engineers attached to the French expedition, in crossing the deserts near Egypt. We estimated the hour’s march at nineteen hundred toises; eight hours would amount to fifteen miles two hundred toises, or very nearly sixteen geographical miles; the hour’s march would thus be established at two miles, or thirty hours to the degree. In consequence of several calculations much too long to be reported here, I consider the day’s journey of the medium caravan to be eighteen geographical miles and four tenths, the hour being between two miles and two miles and one tenth. I shall not here take the light caravans into account; these travel longer, and the progress of each hour is at the same time greater; but I think it may in many cases be estimated at twenty-two miles, or ten hours of two miles and two tenths. Persons travelling in small parties, without reckoning men mounted on horses or dromedaries, move still quicker.

According to Captain Lyon, the days’ journeys of the caravans are less than twenty English miles, and above seventeen; that is to say, more than the short day, and less than the medium. It is not by the pace either of a pedestrian or of a lightly loaded camel that the progress of a caravan must be measured, but, on the contrary, by that of the man or camel bearing the heaviest burden; for the latter must be waited for by the former, and is perpetually retarding the march; otherwise the usual pace would be much greater than that just fixed. Besides, this reduction of the average value is independent of that which must be allowed for the deviations and turnings which are often unknown: another source of hesitation and of error to geographers.

The earlier journeys of M. Caillié on leaving Kakondy afford an example of the real amount of the day’s journey: the first day, he advanced twenty-three English miles, the following sixteen miles and a half; the third eighteen miles; the average rate nineteen miles and one sixth.[94] The hour’s journey was estimated by him at three miles only, but the construction of the itinerary proves that this computation was more than one tenth too small. The result is twenty one English miles,[95] which is very near eighteen geographical miles and four tenths; all, by my estimation, medium days, (or days of a medium caravan). Indeed, the small caravan to which M. Caillié then belonged may be balanced against these considerations—first, that though small in number it included a woman; secondly, that all were on foot; thirdly, that all were loaded. In traversing the desert, the day’s journeys were of twelve hours and sometimes more;[96] but exhaustion, thirst, and fatigue, prevented both the travellers and camels from keeping up the same pace as on their first departure, and a mile and a half an hour is a large allowance for the march.

I ought here to report the opinion of M. Walckenaer, who has discussed with much sagacity this important geographical question:[97] he fixes at fifteen minutes the amount of a day’s journey of a caravan heavily loaded; this amount falls short by only one sixth of that which I have adopted, from our own experience in Egypt, and which further confirms the opinion of Major Rennell.

But M. Walckenaer does not estimate the other two denominations of days’ journeys, those of the medium and of the light caravans. I shall only remark that the result of his arguments seems to be, that the real and effective progress is considerably more than 15’, and about equal to 18’ or 19’: the average of a day’s journey reduced to measures taken in a straight line upon the map. But will the diversity of elbows and inflexions, resulting from that of the obstacles which produce them, allow us to work a uniform reduction, and to apply a uniform factor to every distance travelled over? Let us, for instance admit that part of the route amounts to sixty miles, and that the straight line between these extremities is forty-eight miles; can the same rule be adopted with regard to the whole route, which may be three hundred miles or five times as much? would the total direct line amount to two hundred and forty miles? The longer the route, the greater should be the variation in the rate of the reduction. The following table contains a summary of these observations upon the amount of the hours’ and days’ marches of caravans, and the different computations which have been made of them.

AUTHORITIES.MARCH OF THE CARAVAN
HEAVILY laden.MODERATELY laden.LIGHTLY laden.
per hour.per day of 8 hours.per hour.per day of 8 hours.per hour.per day of 10 hours.
Geograph. miles.Geograph. miles.Geograph. miles.
Egyptian expedition.2„„„„„
Major Rennel.„16⅙„„„17⅛
Captain Lyon.„„„above 17„„
M. Walckenaer.„15[98]„„„above 22
M. Caillié’s travels.1⁹⁄₂₀„2³⁄₁₀„„„
Computation from miscellaneous data.1¾15 to 162³⁄₂₀18⁴⁄₁₀2⁴⁄₁₀ to 2⁶⁄₁₀24[99]

N.B. To reduce these numbers into English miles, theymust be worked by the proportion of 60:69.[100]

I had at first intended to construct separately each of M. Caillié’s routes, taking into consideration in each particular case the difficulties of the ground, the composition of the caravans, and the physical condition of the travellers; but, as it was impossible to perform this work correctly, it would also have been useless. Besides, the reflections which I have already made tend to shew that, by following a uniform plan of reduction from one end of the route to the other, one must arrive at a result nearly approaching to the truth.

All that I have hitherto advanced relates solely to that part of the general map, which represents the space travelled over by M. Caillié; I have now to speak of the remainder, namely, the extremity of the map towards the north, and that towards the S. W. The former portion, or the country of Morocco, has been chiefly extracted from the fine map of M. Brué,[101] but reduced to much fewer details; we know that he sought his data in the best Spanish and English maps, and in the works of Badia, Jackson, Walckenaer, Ritter, &c.; authorities which furnish excellent materials, but which, the former especially, must not always be employed without the assistance of criticism.

The second part, to the south of the Rio-Nuñez, has been drawn from the Senegambie of M. Dufour, who has skilfully combined the materials of Major Laing with those of preceding English travellers: it will be seen by comparing our two maps, that I have been obliged to differ from him with respect to the situations and names of several countries. I have also been necessitated, as well for the sake of perspicuity on a map upon a very small scale, as on account of uncertainty, to retrench many details. I shall conclude with the table of geographical positions, forming the foundation of the general map, independently of the coast of Africa, which is pretty accurately known.[102]

N. Latitude.Longitude W. from Paris.AUTHORITIES.
Timé9° 3’ 0’’9° 2’ 0’’Construction of the map.
Sources of the Dhioliba at Mount Loma9 25 012 5 0Major Laing.
Timbo10 25 012 54 0Major Laing.
Kakondy11 10 016 17 0Construction of the map.
M. Brué’s map, long. 16° 24’
Djenné13 0 09 0 0Park.
Yamina13 15 0"" "" ""Idem.
Sami13 17 0"" "" ""Idem.
Bakel14 13 3014 41 40Dussault.
Elimané15 2 5012 36 0De Beaufort.
Timbuctoo17 50 06 0 0Construction of the map.
Ain-Salah27 12 300 29 0Major Laing.
Morocco31 37 309 56 0Badia.
Fez34 6 07 18 0Idem.

§ III

OF THE NOMENCLATURE.

I shall not here offer to the reader a general list of the names of towns and villages, or of the different nations, states and districts visited by M. Caillié during his travels; this duplicate labour is rendered quite unnecessary by the minute list of the Itinerary[103] contained in this volume, and by the journal itself, both of which I recommend it to the reader to consult upon this subject. My object is merely to make some remarks upon the method of retracing these names and upon a few other relative points. The nomenclature is so much the more important in the compilation of African maps, as inattentive travellers frequently confuse generic appellations with proper names and vice versa; or they spell the same name in several different ways, or in writing various names they lose sight of the trifling differences by which they are distinguished. Hence the faulty multiplication upon the maps of places which do not exist, and on the contrary the suppression of many which do. The difficulty is great, particularly with respect to countries recently explored and the language of which is unknown. I have chiefly confined myself to obtaining the names from the mouth of the traveller as his memory furnished them, and comparing them in his presence with his journal.

Among other generic terms which have been considered as proper names, I shall particularize two, on account of the confusion which they have introduced, and which involves in obscurity some important geographical questions, namely the situation of a considerable chain of mountains to the south of the 8th degree of latitude, and the still unknown outlet of the great central river. Kong, is the name given, particularly since Mungo Park, to a great chain of transverse mountains which he reports to have seen at a distance to his right, when travelling from the Gambia to the Dhioliba. Now, M. Caillié learnt from the natives that Kong is a generic word, and that in the Mandingo language it signifies a mountain; the mountain or chain of mountains in question is accordingly far from being the only one of its name. I remark also, that the English traveller in his Mandingo vocabulary explains the word Kong by head; whence perhaps the signification of Kong; and himself translates Konko by hill.[104]

When the later English travellers had gained intelligence of a river called Couara, to the west of Saccatou, and of the river which is near Funda, it was remembered that this name is also borne by the upper Dhioliba, and these three rivers have been at once identified; but it appears that Couara is a general term signifying a river. The inhabitants who in three different places have been asked the name of the river, not understanding the question, have answered by the word river. Already had this confusion taken place a hundred times with the words ba, bahr, and nil, which also mean river, running water, great water. There is on the road from Timé to Djenné a village named Couara, and near it a river of moderate breadth, called Coraba (or according to my idea Couara-ba,[105].) It is easy to perceive from the face of the country, that it is a tributary of the Dhioliba, which was also reported to M. Caillié; here then is another river of the same name, or rather another general denomination which confirms the import of the word Couara, already observed by travellers.

I have noticed that the Arabic, kha غ, is used every where, even in the countries where the Arabic language and Islamism do not prevail: the traveller had expressed it by a blank; I have written it kh according to the general custom. The slightly lisping sound ﻎ is used in many central districts, as is a liquid sound, common also in Senegambia, and which may be written ghi or dhi. The name of the town of Jenné has been written Djenné, because the Arabs of the present day write جنع or جنا; but M. Caillié remarked that the natives pronounce dhi I am therefore inclined to prefer Dhienné.[106]

M. Caillié knows nothing of the Island of Jinbala marked upon Park’s map, but he was not wholly a stranger to the name; he mentions a tribe of Jinbalas to the north of Timbuctoo.

I entertain doubts, which time alone can remove; respecting the names of many places, and I have therefore thought it better to preserve those names without alteration. I have only omitted, upon consultation with the traveller, letters which appeared useless to the pronunciation, or which might create difficulties. The names of such places as Brahihima no doubt require rectification; the name of Abrahima, or Ibrahima, &c., are met with in some travels.

I have suppressed the letter q and almost always the k, except before e or i, confining myself to the use of c. The double ss merely expresses the sound of an initial S. The w and oo of the English, which M. Caillié acquired the habit of using at Sierra-Leone, I have expressed upon the maps by ou; the words in the text have been generally subjected to the same rules.

On the route to the Tafilet such names as Tamaroc and M-dayara, &c., occur on account of the use of the initial letters T and M which announce the vicinity of the Berbers. The wells of Trasas or Trazah should perhaps be pronounced T-ghazah or T-ghazzah, which will correspond with the Tegasa or Tegazzah of Leo Africanus[107]. In several words beginning with L as L-Eksebi, L-Guedea, L-Eyarac, L-Guim, &c., the Arabic article al appears to me to be joined to the name by contraction, as in the vulgar pronunciation throughout Northern Africa. The words beginning with the letter n should perhaps be pronounced ain, which signifies a source or fountain. I hazard this conjecture from the presence of wells at such places, and from the example of Ain-Salah, in the oasis of Touat, which is frequently written Ensalah, or Nsalah, in a single word. It is difficult for Europeans to pronounce the guttural ع, and they frequently leave a blank for it, as well as for the ق and the خ. I presume, therefore that the names Nzeland, Nyela, &c., stand for Ain-Zeland, Ain-Yela; but this supposition may perhaps be refuted by the orthography of the name of Hanalak or (Hen-Alak) هنالﻜ a place situated upon the route from the country of Galam to Morocco.

I shall take this opportunity of giving the Arabian orthography of the names of several places belonging to the space between St. Louis, Timbuctoo, and Morocco; I am obliged for them, to the Baron Roger, formerly governor of the Senegal, and who has lately enhanced, by important publications, the title he had long since acquired to general esteem, by the improvements of all kinds which he introduced into that country.

LIST OF THE NAMES OF SEVERAL PLACES IN NORTHERN AFRICA.

Ouad-Nounوادنون
Sousسوس
Marakch, or Marocمراكش
El-Rebat, or Arbateالرباط
Fes, or Fezفاس
Kalam, or Galamكّلم
Takant, or Tajacant[108]تاكّانت
El-Zaouatالزاوات
Oualata, or Waletوَلات
Ouadan, or Hodenوأدَان
Hanalakهنالﻜ
El-A’rousyoun, or el-Rossالعروسيون
Tychytتيشيت
Oualata, or Oualyata[109]ولياتَ
A’raouanعَروَان
Bouzbeyahبوزبيه
EI-Mabroukالمبروك
Tymboctou[110]تيمبُكتُ
Touatتوَات

This list contains the names of several Moorish tribes and colonies of different nations, the orthography of which is uncertain. It would require very laborious research, and assistance which will be long unsupplied, to write these names more correctly: I have contented myself with discarding from the names occurring in the journal all useless letters, and those which do not accord with the sound as remembered by our traveller.

Science would be much benefited by the careful examination of the names engraved on the maps of Northern Africa, without excepting those recently published, and the indication of the duplicates and false names, which are real blemishes in works otherwise of great value; but this labour, even as regards the countries which belong to my subject, would occupy too much time. The nomenclature is of more importance than is usually ascribed to it by the compilers of maps; I consider it one of the fundamental principles of geography: there are maps which would merit the appellation of classical if they answered in this respect to their precision and merit in all others. Two things are wanting to enable us accurately to fix this nomenclature: the names written by a native, and the pronunciation collected with great attention[111].

§ IV.

OF SOME RESULTS OF THE TRAVELS OF M. CAILLIÉ.

Of all the results, for which we are indebted to the new travels, that which most excites curiosity is unquestionably the knowledge of the city of Timbuctoo; but, perhaps that which is most important to geography is the course of the great central river. Although M. Caillié was unable to give information of it beyond Timbuctoo, he has conferred a real service on science, since he describes its banks with circumstantial detail from Djenné to that city, and gives us an idea of its course above Djenné. By crossing it at Couroussa, and after advancing more than two hundred English miles farther east, then travelling as far as Djenné on the right bank, he has furnished reason for concluding that no river parallel with the Dhioliba exists there, as traced upon the maps. The river, on the contrary, receives in this quarter pretty numerous tributaries, which, from their importance, seem to denote a distant source.[112] We perceive from the description that both banks of the river, a little beyond Bamakou, are very open, and their declivity gentle, which explains the existence of vast accumulations of water, of which the Lake Debo or Dhiebou is the most considerable. Whatever opinion may have been previously formed of the existence of a lake in this part of Africa, we were utterly ignorant of its situation, its true name, its form, and extent. The islets, on which our countryman has thought himself entitled to bestow names, will perhaps one day prove remarkable points. Their occupation would suffice to intercept the navigation upwards and downwards, and by thus rendering their possessor master of the river to influence the commerce of interior Africa; a commerce, comprehending on one hand, the gold extracted from the rich mines of Bouré, and the productions of Kankan, Ouassoulo, and Fouta-Dhialon, the merchandise of the Mandingoes, and all the articles of Djenné; on the other, the productions which Timbuctoo receives from the northern coast, and every thing transported thither by the Moors from the north and north east.

The observation of the river near Djenné affords a still more remarkable modification of received opinions; it must now be acknowledged that Djenné stands on an island, and that this island is double; which, let me remark, by the way, may serve to explain many contradictory accounts both of travellers and natives. The new narrative itself is, I confess, not free from difficulties, I have consequently only traced with dotted lines the branches of the river round Djenné. The following results may, at any rate, be deduced from M. Caillié’s routes by land and water, along the eastern part, and from the intelligence which he obtained respecting the western portion; first, that a large branch diverges near Sego, about forty leagues, (in a direct line), above Djenné; and that it rejoins the main stream at Isaca, twenty-seven leagues below, (forming the first or largest island,. including Djenné); secondly, that near Galia, (or Cou Galia,) is another communication, having itself two branches, and forming a second or smaller island, of which Djenné occupies one extremity; another channel also joins this island with the eastern branch.

This description appears at first sight rather complicated, but its perplexity will be removed if the tracing dotted on the map be admitted. The eastern branch could not have been crossed by Mungo Park, and he knew nothing of it; the same with Dochard. And, as for the second journey of Park, its narrative breaks off abruptly: it is probable that the branch which he followed in the first instance, on which Silla and six other villages beyond Sansanding are situated, is the same branch, which, according to M. Caillié, runs from Sego to Isaca; but Djenné must be carried to the right bank, whereas in the map of Park’s travels it is placed on the left. This circumstance was already learned from Baron Roger[113]; but the new discoveries perfectly explain this contradiction, which is merely apparent; for if Djenné is on the right of the western branch, it is at the same time on the left of the eastern.

This discussion shews that the immense volume of the waters of the Dhioliba is still greater than has been supposed. Park, indeed, who saw only one branch, stood in silent admiration of this majestic stream; but that which M. Caillié crossed before Djenné and followed as far as Isaca is not inferior to the other in importance[114].

The junction of the island with the river, visible from the tops of the houses in Djenné, was pointed out to M. Caillié. Is it with the western arm, or with a branch of the eastern? I am disposed to believe that it is with the latter, the other being at too great a distance to be within sight. I can say nothing positive of the island of Jimbala, and which the maps represent between Lake Dibbi and Cabra, the port of Timbuctoo[115]. There is, however, no reason for doubting its existence, since M. Caillié could not examine all the windings of Lake Debo or Dhiébou, from which an arm may diverge to the right, and rejoin the branch which it runs off to the east near Cabra.

From the travels of M. Caillié we further learn, on the subject of commercial communications, that the navigation of the Dhioliba is almost every where practicable; it is navigable as early as Couroussa, and no doubt yet nearer to its source; there is no reason to suppose any serious obstacle at Bamakou, although there appear to be at this place three principal rapids, but not cataracts. Park navigated it here; the current, by his account (but on the 22d of August, the season when the river is full,) ran at the rate of about five knots an hour. Its bed was a mile in width, and at the point of the rapids twice as much[116].

The observations which I have made above upon the position of Timbuctoo[117] apply equally to the course of the river. Ever since the year 1720, the tracing of this course on the maps has been progressively moving from east to west, drawing nearer and nearer to the Senegambia and to the west coast of Africa. It becomes, also, more and more probable that the mountainous space, which separates these two basons, will be found shorter and more practicable for the passage both of men and animals. Who knows but some large tributary to the Dhioliba may run in the close vicinity of a similar tributary to the Bâfing, or even to the Senegal below Galam, such as the Red River, or the Baoulima, or the Kokoro, so that the communication between these two rivers might be established without much difficulty? Who knows, in short, whether the progress of civilization may not one day effect the construction of a canal between such tributaries, suitable for commercial purposes; and whether we may not then find a navigable communication opened between the mouths of the Gambia and Senegal and Sego, Djenné, Timbuctoo, Houssa, and all the large towns by which the Dhioliba flows?

Even though Europeans should attempt only the land passage between the two rivers, this would be an enterprise founded on a more accurate knowledge of the situation and distance of places, and, if not an immediate consequence, would, at least, be an indirect result of M. Caillié’s travels on the two banks of the great river. It is unnecessary for me to add, that if, for want of positive documents, I should have erred in tracing the itinerary, the fault will be all my own, and will detract nothing from the merit of our traveller, or from the gratitude due to him from all friends and patrons of discoveries.

To continue our examination of the geographical results of M. Caillié’s travels, I ought not to omit the attention he has paid to make himself acquainted with the situation and depth of the wells; a circumstance from which useful inferences may be drawn relative to the course and distance of the waters: he has not neglected remarks upon the climate, the periodical rains,[118] and the state of the atmosphere. The learned will, no doubt, deeply regret that he was unprovided with instruments for observing and measuring meteorological phenomena: but it is not on a man’s first travels that these lights can be obtained; and, besides, none of our readers have forgotten the perils which attended our countryman in the execution of his enterprize.

The situations of several known places experience extraordinary changes in consequence of M. Caillié’s peregrinations, without mentioning the towns washed by the Dhioliba. Toudeyni, which was supposed to be 3½ degrees west of the meridian of Timbuctoo, proves by M. Caillié’s route to be very near the wells of Telig, only 40’ west of that meridian. Is this another place of the same name? I doubt it: its importance, proved by the description given of it by our traveller, repels the supposition. A’raouan[119] is inscribed in the maps as a mere station, with a well of brackish water; but M. Caillié found this a considerable place, a commercial entrepôt, in a word, an important town, notwithstanding the partial decay of its prosperity.

M. Caillié makes us acquainted in the north with a place called Oualet, at a great distance from the Walet of Mungo Park, and another of the name of Sala, which confirms the testimony of Arabic writers; in the south the towns of Teuté, Cagny, or Canny, and Koung, fifteen days and more south of Timé, that is to say, near the seventh degree. This account rectifies our notions of the kingdoms or states east of Fouta-Dhialon, and distinctly points out the mountainous tracts, the sandy plains, and the fertile territories enriched by numerous rivers.

We were before uncertain about the district of Bouré; the new notes enable us to give it on the maps very nearly its true site.

The large towns in which he resided, such as Timbuctoo, Fez,[120] Djenné, Kankan, are very minutely described, and were I not unwilling to lengthen this paper, it would be easy to shew how much he has added in this respect to our information, and also how many false and exaggerated ideas he has corrected: this is a merit for which we ought to give him double credit; since he is, perhaps, of all travellers the one who has dissipated the greatest number of illusions. Sound minds will feel the more grateful to him in proportion to the currency formerly gained by these exaggerations. The lapse of time may, indeed, have effected actual changes in the importance and population of towns; we must not, for instance, be surprized at the difference between the description of Leo and that given at the present day.[121] Who was there but believed, only a short time since, that Timbuctoo was equal in extent to one of our large cities, and contained within its walls a population of a hundred thousand inhabitants, or even from a hundred and fifty to two hundred thousand? The most moderate computation, says M. Walckenaer, gives it a hundred thousand inhabitants.[122] The exaggerations of the Arabs have constantly held the Europeans under the same error, and in the itinerary of Mohamed-Ebn-Aly Ebn-Foul especially it is said: “This is the largest city which God has created.”[123]

With regard to the account of the mountains of Fouta-Dhialon, and the means afforded by the descriptions of M. Caillié for forming an idea of the configuration of the country, or the relations which exist between the situations of the different basons, I must refer to what I have said in § II. (articles 2 and 3); I shall also refer to the same for the positions of various countries, pompously called kingdoms by travellers or writers.

Although he did not receive either from government, or from any learned societies, those questions or instructions which might have guided him in his course, M. Caillié has observed much; if he has not treated his subject very profoundly, if indeed he has but glanced at it, he has at least opened the road to his successors.

It is thus that during his travels he has lost no opportunity of speaking of the manners and customs, of the costume and food, of the people; of their religious practices and superstitions; of their commerce and navigation; of their industry, agriculture, and habitations; of the population of the countries; of the character, the physiognomy, and the language of the inhabitants; of their warlike or peaceful habits; in a word, of the whole state of society amongst these still half barbarous people. The picture of a flourishing agriculture, a peaceful and industrious population in the countries of Kankan, Ouassoulo, Baléya, &c., will be read with peculiar interest. Could it be expected that he should penetrate deeply into these subjects, or even that he could direct his attention to them with benefit?

It would be superfluous here to repeat all the new results for which we are indebted to him, and which make ample amends for the frequently minute simplicity of his accounts; they well depict the difficulties of the journey and the precautions which it requires. Future travellers will not complain of the multiplicity of his details, monotonous, it is true, but convenient in pointing out to them the measures necessary to avoid miscarrying in their enterprize. On this ground M. Caillié will have contributed usefully to the progress of discovery.

The physical conformation of the various races, and the colour of their complexion, are most frequently noticed by our traveller. This is one means of clearing up some questions still enveloped in great obscurity, for example, the origin of the Fellatas, as they are called by the latest English travellers. What relation do they bear to the great nation of Foulahs? We learn from M. Caillié that the Touariks are established much farther towards the south than has hitherto been supposed; their camps are seated upon the Dhioliba, considerably above Timbuctoo. He has also taught us that they bear a second name, that of Sorgous; above all, he has given us some very valuable information respecting the tyranny exercised by this wandering and predatory tribe against the peaceful natives; the portrait he has drawn of them bears visible marks of truth.

With regard to idioms, it is vexatious that M. Caillié, although he visited so many tribes, has been able to collect only two vocabularies. That of Timbuctoo consists of only a hundred and twenty words. We must regret that it is not more extensive. I have already said that the words in Denham’s relation agree with him, but not those of Adams and of Bowdich.

The particulars respecting commerce have been collected with care. M. Caillié has scarcely ever omitted to point out the native or foreign commodities which he saw at every market, their price, and the kind of coin. He confirms the fact that European merchandise reaches central Africa; goods of English manufacture were to be seen at Djenné as well as at Saccatou. Upon the commerce of Bouré in gold the traveller gives us some information which appears to be equally new and certain, and fit, probably, to direct the calculations of speculators, or the efforts of the European governments. We have yet but a vague knowledge of the actual degree of the riches of the mines of Bouré, and the quantity of gold now circulating in commerce; but there can be no doubt that it abounds in this part of Africa. We know for certain that this rich country is a hundred and twenty or a hundred and forty leagues in a straight line from the establishments of the Gambia and the Senegal. If we could, at some future day, open a direct communication, we should avoid the journey from Bouré to Ségo, from Ségo to Djenné, thence to Timbuctoo, and afterwards to Morocco, across the great desert; not only should we thus shorten the road by at least four hundred leagues in a direct line[124], but we should escape the cupidity of the Moors and the Jews, who appropriate the largest part of the profits, and also the ferocity of the predatory Arabs of the desert. At a trifling sacrifice, and in a short time this result might be obtained, if but a small part of those efforts were consecrated to it, which are absolutely wasted upon less useful objects. But, whatever the consequence may be, geography and the genius of discovery will have had the merit of pointing out a source of wealth to ancient Europe, overcharged with debts and population, and ready to sink under this double burden, if some new outlets are not speedily opened to her industry.

If it were possible to doubt the veracity of the traveller; if it could be supposed that all which has been hitherto said has still left any uncertainty in the minds of those who, in the first instance, manifested some incredulity, the results which I have just recapitulated would remain equally doubtful: it is their importance which induces me to neglect nothing here which may dispel doubts, if they still exist. I shall first cite, as a sure testimony of this veracity, an Arabic manuscript which Lander received two years ago from the hands of his master Captain Clapperton, and which M. Salamé translated in London, at the very time that M. Caillié was completing his enterprise: it is a description of part of the Soudan. One may read a portion of the African text, with the new map in one’s hand, for the countries common to this description and to the itinerary, that is to say, as far as Timbuctoo. I will even add that it would have been completely unintelligible to me, without the assistance of this map[125]. The alteration in the names of places does not prevent their being recognized; for many of the differences, it appears evident to me, arise only from carelessness in copying. I have made an extract from this curious document, which was accompanied by a map of the Kouara, traced by the hand of the secretary or amanuensis of the Sultan Bello. I place, according to geographical order, the different parts of the description, extracted as I have said above.

“The route from Sakkatou to Masera crosses first a tributary to the Kouara, and afterwards that river itself.

“The Touara flows from south to north, thence to the east, and afterwards returns to the south.

“It is formed of two arms, the one, called Balio, the black river, coming from the Fouta-Djalo; the other, called Raniou, the white river, coming from Ségo[126].

“At their junction it takes the name of Couarra, according to the secretary.

“Upon the first is a large island containing the town of Djeri.

“Many streams fall into the river on the left side.

“Beyond is the lake Djebou.

“Timbuctoo is at the farthest turn of the river: Kabara is half a day’s journey from that city.

“Masera is beyond the branch which comes from Ségo.

“The Touariks occupy the country adjoining Timbuctoo to the north, &c.

I pass over in silence the other places unconnected with the route of M. Caillié, or which he has not mentioned.

This account appeared at first very obscure; but by reading, with me, Massina instead of Masera, and Djené (or Djenné, instead of Djeri), every thing is explained.

It is easy to confound a noun without a point ﻥ with a ﺭ re. A similar error, I think, has been committed in the name of Ba-niou which has been read Raniou taking a be without a point ﺑ for a ﺭ re.

The word Dombari, a mountain, represented upon the map of the Fellata writer, ought, upon the principle already laid down, to be read in two words Oun-bari.

M. Caillié having informed us that the situation of Djenné is in an island, it will be immediately recognised in that of Djéri, actually situated at seven days’ journey from Ségo. In like manner, the arm, which separates in the environs of Ségo, says M. Caillié, and rejoins the western branch at Isaca, explains the Balio and the Banio, which meet, (according to the Fellata), below Djéri (or Djenné). Our traveller, not having inquired the names of these branches of the river, could not be acquainted with them. Masera is here, like Massina, to the west of Djenné: I remarked that, in travelling from Timé to Djenné, M. Caillié neither saw nor heard of the mountain or the town of Ounbari, nor of the road leading to Saccatou.

The lake Debo or Debou is here placed as it was seen by M. Caillié, between Timbuctoo and the confluence of the two branches (at Isaca); it is called in the Arabic description Djebou. The name of this great lake is doubtless written جبو, and I suppose that in this word, the ﺟ is pronounced dhi, as at the Senegal. On this subject, I remark that, according to M. Caillié, the name of the town of Djenné is pronounced, in that country, in a peculiar manner, expressed here by Dhienné.

The same is the case with the name of Fouta-Dhialon which the English translator, after the Fellata, writes Fouta-Djalo[127]. In studying the Arabic nomenclature of the places bordering on the Senegal, this observation has appeared to me to be more and more confirmed; and it must by analogy be applicable to the neighbouring countries. The Marabouts had only the letter djim ﺝ at their disposal for expressing this liquid sound, which is of a peculiar nature, intermediate between the English th and the Arabic dj.

The marigots observed by M. Caillié on the left bank of the stream, correspond with the four rivers or canals belonging to Masera or Masina.

Kabera appears here to be placed beyond Timbuctoo (coming from Djenné): the place in question is perhaps distinct from Cabra; or Timbuctoo may be a little farther west of Cabra than has been supposed. M. Caillié in going to this city went due north by the compass, which places it only 17° west of Cabra.

With regard to Baniou, White River, it should be remembered that M. Caillié also translates in the same manner the word Bagoé, the name of a considerable tributary of the river running from Teuté, very far south, but falling in on the right bank, whereas the Baniou is on the left: there is therefore a difference both in the name and situation. Goé (and koué, according to Mungo Park) certainly signify white in Mandingo. But the words niou and lio, I cannot find in any vocabulary of Northern Africa, with the meaning of white and black. In Wolof, moul signifies black.

The Banimma of the maps cannot flow parallel with the great river, as I have explained above[128].

It would not be uninteresting to compare with this draught the pretended map of Bello himself, which Clapperton has given in his first travels[129]. Five or six sites only are connected with my subject; Djenné is here, as in the other, placed between two branches of the river, (a fresh point of conformity with our traveller) and the Massina is separated from it by the western branch. There again the r is substituted for the n; (and I presume for the same reason) for it is there spelt Jesni or Jenri, and Mashira[130].

For want of room, Bello has placed Sego and Masina, much too near together, as well as Fouta and Djenné. The city of Timbuctoo (written Tonbaktou) is not less misplaced by the august geographer; but he has marked between it and Mashira (Massina) a large tributary or off-branch: this is probably one of the four rivers which his secretary has indicated in the same space, and one of the marigots, the outlet of which was seen by M. Caillié[131]. Thus the only two native maps (if they may be so called) which we possess, and the recent descriptions of two Africans, all confirm the discoveries of M. Caillié, who was entirely unacquainted with them.

A corroborative testimony is that of Park himself. Similar names will be found in the two narratives for certain indigenous productions and for several instruments employed in the arts. The Mandingo words and names are either the same or analogous in the two narratives.

In a preceding article, I think I have sufficiently shewn the agreement of M. Caillié’s observations with those of other distinguished travellers, Mollien, Watt, and Winterbottom, and Major Laing. The particulars of Major Laing’s death collected by our traveller at Timbuctoo, and afterwards on the very theatre of the catastrophe, so far from contradicting those obtained either by the English Consul at Tripoli, or by the governor of the Senegal, confirm all the important circumstances of both[132].

We did not learn from the first travels of Clapperton the name of the prince reigning at Timbuctoo; it was even imagined that the supreme authority resided at that period in a female; and when M. Caillié informed us that the supreme chief of Timbuctoo was named Osman, we could not reconcile this report with those which had preceded it: but we have now letters from Major Laing himself, received since the return of our countryman, one of which dated from Timbuctoo, the 21st of September, 1826, reveals the name of the prince then reigning, and this name is also Osman[133].

In the same letter, Major Laing states the circumference of the city at four miles; this account confirms the small population assigned to it by M. Caillié. He adds that he has collected documents in abundance relating to Timbuctoo. If we may rely on the account of a Moor from Saint Louis, the books of the Major are at the disposal of a certain Saleh, son of the Iman of Timbuctoo; and according to another they are in the hands of the Touariks. Time will in all probability produce some of the documents, the only consolation for so deplorable a loss.

The same accuracy appears in M. Caillié’s observations respecting the journeys, if we admit as a fair specimen those which concern countries whose geography is known; thus the distance from Fez to Arbate by Mequinaz agrees with the itinerary of M. Caillié, at the rate of three miles an hour.

So many motives of confidence and interest sufficiently recommend the accuracy of the travels, and consequently authenticate the results I have above deduced; yet the history of the enterprize itself will, if possible, increase this effect. The inclination of Réné Caillié for travels of discovery early announced his vocation. From the moment of his second landing at Senegal, he employed himself in acquiring a familiarity with the language of the Moors.[134] He talked of nothing but penetrating into the interior of Africa, the object of all his thoughts; his resources became exhausted, yet he refused every other occupation, every other mission. This fixed impression was regarded as a mania; nothing could shake his purpose, not even the insults which his Moorish costume drew upon him from the negroes; he was content to be considered by them as an idiot, and almost an object of derision. The want of sufficient support having obliged him to take another course, he set out for Sierra-Leone; there he remained the period necessary for collecting some resources, and soon quitted it for Rio-Nuñez: thence he announced to a friend at St. Louis (in April 1827) his departure for the interior. He was supposed to be lost, and nearly forgotten like so many other victims, when, at the expiration of eighteen months, he suddenly appeared at the further extremity of Africa, triumphant over every obstacle; like an expert swimmer, who, having plunged into the bosom of a broad stream, after a long interval unexpectedly appears on the opposite bank, while his friends are already lamenting his loss as certain.

Scarcely had he quitted the banks of the Rio-Nuñez and entered upon this new career of difficulty and danger, when he at once displayed a consummate prudence, and far above his years: as skilful in appreciating obstacles as he was firm in encountering them, his embarrassments increased at every step; but his sagacity constantly suggested the means of extricating himself from every new perplexity. Had he not possessed this just estimate of his difficulties and resources, united with a fortitude not to be shaken, he could not have concluded, perhaps not have commenced, his enterprize. How ingenious was the fiction he invented to obtain the confidence of these numerous tribes! This thread, slender as it was, served every where for his guidance and protection. He rightly supposed that the fame of the French expedition to Egypt had spread over Northern Africa: it was natural that a child carried off from its parents at the age of three years, and transported into the heart of France, should be but ill versed in his mother-tongue; equally so that good Musulmans should congratulate him on his return to his country by the most direct line, although he was supposed to be destitute of resources. Now this line must inevitably conduct him beyond the great river: afterwards manifesting a desire of repairing to Alexandria by sea, it was necessary to return to the river and embark on it, and thus his arrival at Timbuctoo was accomplished with certainty; having attained this object, he must naturally seek the readiest and surest means of reaching some place occupied by Europeans, and the caravan of Tafilet offered an opportunity that he could not hesitate to seize.

I shall not advert to all his misfortunes at Timé, and during the journey, nor to his perils at Tangier, when already within sight of his haven; but with what intelligence and courage must he have been endowed to resist and triumph over so many enemies. It was necessary to avoid the most trifling error; a single one would have infallibly proved his destruction.

Few are acquainted with the history of the unfortunate Antonio Piloti, a Spaniard, who took refuge in Morocco in consequence of the political events of 1811. After having assumed the Moorish dress, and habituated himself to the language, he succeeded in enrolling himself amongst the Emperor of Morocco’s guards. Incessantly occupied with the project of going by this means to Timbuctoo, he secretly offered his services to the French consul, M. Sourdeau; he solicited the protection of the French government: the Consul had ascertained that he combined all the qualifications essential to success, yet his offers were rejected. Neverthless Piloti daily prosecuted his preparations for the journey: nothing it should seem could have prevented his success, since he would have set out under the disguise of a Moor, and returned with a caravan of Moors. In the absence of direct assistance from France, he was furnished with instructions by M. Delaporte, our vice-consul, and from a member of the Geographical Society, who was on the point of sending to him some instruments, when he was suddenly implicated in the political movements of the court of Morocco. The Moors and Jews, always intriguing, suspected some secret designs on his part, and denounced him as belonging to the party opposed to the prince. His trial was summary, and Piloti was beheaded. Such is the jealous distrust manifested by the mercenary race, against any stranger, who, making himself acquainted with the localities, should attempt to deprive them of any portion of their commerce with the interior. M. Caillié, ignorant of this adventure, was more fortunate; he did not continue long enough exposed to the suspicions of the Moors, or by prudence and sacrifices he contrived to escape the effects of them.

On the first arrival of the letters which I received from M. Delaporte and M. Caillié himself, I entertained some doubts of the authenticity of his narrative, and I immediately arranged some questions by way of trial, on the language spoken at Timbuctoo, the customs of the country, its natural productions, the nomenclature and distance of places, &c.: but meanwhile I attentively compared the two letters, and found the result so conformable to the most established notions of science, that I determined to publish on that very day the news of the journey to Timbuctoo. Many were incredulous; I expected it. I requested the traveller, who in the interval had landed at Toulon, to commit to paper without delay his recollections respecting the questions which I held in readiness for his arrival, but to which he had beforehand in a great measure replied. The very day of his arrival he submitted to my inspection a journal of his travels complete, and continued from the 19th of April 1827 to the 21st of September 1828, modestly observing: “I do not know whether I can answer all your questions, but here are my notes.” He then shewed me part of the original notes, written in pencil, on the spot, and the narrative written and completed during his residence at Tangier and in quarantine, though suffering under a high fever. He also shewed me the pieces of cord with which he had measured the meridian shadow at Timbuctoo and in other places, some fragments of plants brought from the interior, the vocabularies, and some simple sketches of the town of Timbuctoo. If after such testimony I could retain any doubts, the construction of all the routes of the traveller, which I drew up on the following day, would have effectually dispelled them, for I discovered that the observations were continued without any interruption, and that the whole produced a result agreeing with the data already acquired.

It remained that the learned Geographical Society should share my conviction, an additional success for which M. Caillié had not long to wait;[135] and he obtained a brilliant recompense which he had amply merited. This example will restore confidence to minds discouraged by so many fatal catastrophes; and will inflame the zeal of those who are actuated by a desire for glory and the advancement of geographical science.

§ V.

OF THE COURSE OF THE DHIOLIBA ABOVE AND BELOW TIMBUCTOO.

The attentive reader who may have patiently followed me through the preceding pages, will, no doubt, have remarked the new and principal fact which results from M. Caillié’s observations; the division of the Dhioliba in the environs of Sego into two branches equally broad and deep, and the existence of a large island. It elucidates the description of Mungo Park, and reconciles him with our traveller; it explains the contradictions between the situations assigned to the same towns by different travellers, sometimes on the right, and sometimes on the left of the river, and finally it enlarges our ideas of the advantages of navigation in the interior of the Soudan. This fact also accounts for the great collection of waters which forms the lake Dhiebou or Debo, because many considerable branches which separate from the western arm unite again with the main stream beyond the tributary which falls into it at Isaca; and the want of declivity in the direction of this junction is the cause of the stagnation of the waters.

It would appear that the river has different names which change with its course. Called at its source Tombia, Ba, Dhioliba, &c., it retains the latter name as far as Sego, where or in the environs it divides; if we may trust the description of the amanuensis of Bello, the left arm is called Baniou, and the right Balio, and after the junction it is called only Couara. But M. Caillié never once heard that the river, which he reached at Galia, and upon which he navigated thirty days, had different names; perhaps because he did not inquire. He only saw a river, Couaraba, which falls into the right branch, but very far to the south. I think then that if the stream is called Couara below Isaca, it is only because the term is generic and signifies a river.

I might stop here and leave it to the reader to draw other consequences from the new observations. But the question of the outlet of this stream is so closely connected with my subject, that the reader would have a right to complain if in this work he found neither information nor opinion upon it. It is universally inquired what becomes of this immense collection of water below Timbuctoo; it is at least necessary to exhibit in a few words the different opinions at present current upon this subject.

The most ancient identifies this river with the Nile of Egypt. It does not appear that the partisans of this opinion had any other foundation than the pretended unanimous reports of blacks, Arabs, and natives. Thus without considering the physical conditions, or taking account of insurmountable obstacles, they maintained as a fact, that the waters which had their rise in the heights of the Soulimana, that is to say at an elevation of from fourteen to fifteen hundred feet, reached the Mediterranean after a course of two thousand leagues. But, what is perhaps still more strange, this notion rested wholly upon the equivocal interpretation of a word, or as we may express it in plain English upon a pun; the word Nile or Nil is generic. In saying that the Dhioliba joins the Nile, the Africans mean no more than it communicates with some other great water, whether it falls into it, or whether it receives it, (for this distinction of arm or tributary is very important). When therefore the Arabs say that the Dhioliba communicates with the Nile or the Bahi, they understand thereby either a great river, or a sea, and this may be an inland sea as well as the Ocean. This opinion that the Dhioliba empties itself into the Nile of Egypt, though it was supported only a few years since by a learned writer, appears to be now altogether abandoned.

But this is not the case with the opinion of those who, like Major Rennell, consider the central lake as the outlet of the river. Before the discovery of the lake Tchâd by the English travellers, the existence of this inland sea might have been doubted, the evidence of it was so vaguely attested. This opinion, however supported by probability, is nevertheless liable to two objections: first, that upon the whole western coast of the lake is found the mouth of only one inconsiderable river, the source of which is at no great distance in the E. S. E.; secondly, that the town of Boussa, to which Park navigated upon the Dhioliba, is now known by the second journey of Clapperton, and that it is very far to the S. E. of Timbuctoo.

With regard to the first objection, it may not prove a serious difficulty, because recent travellers have not followed the river Yéou, which falls into lake Tchad; they have left it at a certain distance from the lake, and it is very possible, that that which they have seen farther on may have been only a tributary to the former. As to the second objection, it might be more important if it were certain that the Dhioliba runs in a single bed from Timbuctoo to Saccatou and to Boussa; but there is nothing to prove this. Continuing eastwards, towards the central lake, it may send out a branch to Boussa; and this division would account for the Yéou consisting of but an inconsiderable body of water.[136]

Reichard was one of the first who imagined that the Dhioliba may run into the Gulf of Guinea. This hypothesis has for some time past assumed a certain degree of probability, to which the opinions of the later English travellers, Clapperton and Major Laing,[137] have added much weight. They differ, however, respecting the outlet of the river: the one preferring the river Benin (or Formosa), with Reichard[138]; the other, but with much less probability, the Rio-Volta. The objection always raised to this hypothesis is the great height of the mountains called Kong. To reach the sea, the river must cross them; but it may not be absolutely impossible that there should exist an opening in them deep enough to admit of its passage. Another difficulty arises from the small declivity of these waters: but I will here make an observation on this subject. The actually known course of the Dhioliba, from its source as far as Timbuctoo, is about three hundred and sixty leagues: it issues from Mount Loma, at a height of nearly sixteen hundred English feet above the sea, or less than five hundred metres. The velocity observed by M. Caillié leads to the belief, that the average inclination from Djenné and also from Bamakou to Timbuctoo is two thirds of a metre to a league: Timbuctoo would stand, according to this datum only, at a height of two hundred and sixty metres; but it is very probable, that the inclination is much greater from Mount Loma to Bamakou than it is below this latter point, which would lower the position of Timbuctoo at least to two hundred and thirty metres, taking the fall of the first part at only a metre for a league. But this quantity would greatly exceed that supposed by Capt. Beaufort, who, after having observed the elevation of Elimané, conceived Timbuctoo to be upon the same level, that is to say, eighty-four metres above the sea.[139]

Now, from Timbuctoo to the mouth of the river of Benin, following the course of the waters (as it is traced by the partisans of this opinion), the distance is not less than four hundred and sixty leagues. Thus, in the second part of its course, the river would have a total declivity of 230 metres, or 0,51 metre to a league. It is known that the Seine has an inclination of 0,72 metre to a league; the Mississipi, 0,84 metre; the Rio-Apure, 0,92 metre, &c. but others have a much less fall, such as the Wolga, the Missouri, the Senegal, &c., which have one of 0,50 only;[140] so that, strictly speaking, the above inclination is sufficient.

According to a fourth opinion, the river, on reaching the Kong mountains, makes an elbow to the left and runs eastward, by Djacoba and Adamowa to Chary, and thence to lake Tchad into which it discharges itself. It is here that the objection of the want of sufficient inclination applies: how can it be admitted, that the river, after passing Funda, where it would scarcely have an elevation of fifty metres[141] above the sea, (supposing it to be the river of Timbuctoo which flows to Funda), can run on to lake Tchad, three hundred and fifty leagues farther, through a country represented by all accounts as mountainous? But this, even, is not the greatest difficulty.

It is hardly conceivable that any geographer should have admitted an hypothesis, the absurdity of which must have been manifest upon the slightest reflection. The height of lake Tchad has been ascertained: it is nine hundred and twenty French feet above the level of the sea, or something less than three hundred metres; it cannot, therefore, receive the waters which flow to Funda.

The course of this river east of Funda must be reversed, and the supposed elbow converted into a tributary: we shall then probably approach the truth. Major Denham was the first to conceive this easterly turn of the river, running north of the great chain of mountains, and falling at a great distance into the central lake; he had been assured that a communication existed between this river and lake Tchad by the Chary. How is it that the physical impossibility of this course did not occur to him?

A very simple consideration appears to afford a solution of this difficulty, namely, the existence of a lake in an elevated point of the Mandara chain, giving rise both to the Chary and the river which flows by Adamowa and Djacoba. The reports made to Major Denham demonstrate the importance of this stream, which is sufficiently proved by its extent; but, why, without ocular testimony, did he imagine its course to be easterly? If the negroes did not inform him that it ran to the west, neither did they state the contrary. Let us admit the westerly direction: a certain communication will then exist also between the Couara and the Chary; only, after having descended a current southwards, we must ascend another eastward, and thence redescend northwards, into the central lake. This is the most plausible theory I can devise upon Major Denham’s opinion; this is nearly the case with the White Nile and the Misselad, both taking their rise in one of the lakes of Gebel-Koumri. Upon this system, the Couara will continue, after the confluence, to flow southwards, and fall into the sea near the coast of Benin.

A fifth opinion has been recently broached by the English General Sir Rufane Donkin;[142] the summary of which is that the Niger crosses the Wangarah, enters the valley of Ouadi-el-Ghazel, formed by the continuation of the Misselad, and thence runs into the Mediterranean (in the great Syrtis) by a subterranean channel under the sands of Bilmah; and moreover that the Niger rises near the Gulph of Guinea, instead of running towards it. This rather extraordinary opinion has met with adversaries, at which we need not be surprised, even after having read the arguments on which the dissertation is founded. I do not therefore think it necessary to discuss it here; neither shall I enter into the complicated notions, upon the courses of the central river, hazarded by the English traveller Bowdich on very vague information; and I shall be cautious not to offer an additional hypothesis of my own respecting this problem, still full of obscurity. On what basis can an entire and complete system be founded while even the names of the central regions are unknown to us, and our researches into the physical geography of these vast tracts are yet in their infancy; when, in short, the papers of Major Laing, should they be recovered, may at once throw strong light on these chasms in science?[143] It may however be affirmed, and I think with certainty, that the rivers called Dhioliba and Couara neither join the Egyptian Nile, nor contribute one drop to its waters; I think besides that, if the Couara of Funda actually is the continuation of the Dhioliba, flowing to Sego and Timbuctoo, and falls into the Gulph of Guinea, there is nothing to hinder it from throwing off a branch to the east, which may have its outlet in the Yeou and the central lake: this would be the branch seen by M. Caillié before he reached Timbuctoo, and which our traveller followed, the other being on his right flowing east-south-east; and there is no proof that the whole of the former rejoins the latter. The great lake Tchad, or central sea, would then not be the general receptacle of the Dhioliba, but only one of its outlets.