Chapter IX.
Making Warps for Elastic Fabrics—Quills for Use in Shuttles—Effect of Finishing Processes Must Be Calculated from Beginning of Web Construction—Details of Processes and Machines for Different Styles of Goods—Care to Avoid Acid in Goods—Rubber’s Reaction on Copper
The making of cotton warps for elastic fabrics, particularly for double cloth webs, involves considerable thought and care in view of the number of sections necessary for a properly constructed fabric, and the different weaves employed. Owing to the contraction of the rubber, it is essential at all times that the proper balance be maintained between the face and the back of the goods.
This necessitates a uniform weight of stock where the weaves on the face and the back are identical, no matter how the size of the yarns used may vary, and a variable weight of stock where the weaves are different. All this is determined by experimental work when establishing the grade. These conditions necessitate separate warps for the face and back. Then again the different weaves employed involve a variable length in the take-up and this alone would make it impracticable to combine the various weaves.
It is invariably the plan to use fine stock for the face and a coarser material for the back. Of course it would not be practical to put these together on the same beam. The crowded condition of material used necessitates the further splitting of the face and back sections. The binder, which takes up so much faster than any of the other yarns, also requires a special warp.