Chapter V.
Three Leaf Twill or Satin Face Woven in Conjunction with Plain Back—Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Harness Shed—Use of Four Leaf Twill—Filling Fancy Effects and Stitch Figures—Interchanging Figure and Face
Turning our attention from plain webs to combination weaves, we will take up what is popularly known as the three-leaf twill, or satin face, woven in conjunction with a plain back. This is a type of web not only used for suspenders, but employed extensively for corset garter attachments also. A web of this character when properly constructed has a smooth velvet-like face. The threads are uniformly distributed across the width without showing any of the “rowy” effect from the binder warps, which are completely hidden by the heavy pile produced by the float of the face threads. When the contraction of the web takes place, these floating face threads mass together in a velvet-like pile, not only producing a smooth handling web but materially increasing the thickness. Such webs are generally constructed with a six-thread face and a four-thread back, and have what is termed a round edge, similar to the selvage used on a plain web. This arrangement shows up the twill face by contrast and gives the fabric a much finer appearance.