Chapter VII.
Making Frills in the Middle of Goods—Woven Shirred Effects—Novel Decoration at Edge of Fancy Frills—Lappet Weaving on Elastic Fabrics Affords Opportunity for Elaboration at Small Cost—Production of Pearl Edge—Special Fancy Drafts
Woven elastic fabrics are open to many forms of elaboration that are not possible in non-elastic weaving. We have already made mention of the frills woven at the outer edges of the goods, formed by the fluting of non-elastic sections produced by the contraction of the center part. This same effect may also be used in the center of the goods. To accomplish this it becomes necessary to employ a distinct set of harnesses to operate each half of the web, together with additional harnesses on which the frill sections are drawn in.
The chain draft is arranged so that the shuttle is made to pass through one-half of the web and a half section of the frill, and then return. The shuttle then passes through the other half section of body and frill. The operation is repeated continuously. Fig. 1 shows a sample of web in which the frill is brought up for a distance and then buried inside the goods for a short section. Fig. 1A gives the harness and chain draft.
Fig. 1.—Web With Center Frill
Fig. 2.—Fancy Figure With Seersucker Center
The weave used for producing a frill may also be used in the center of the main body; it then produces a seersucker effect. At Fig. 2 there will be seen an example of this, in combination with a figure on either side of the seersucker, the figure part being bordered with a regular frill. The insertion of this seersucker section lessens the number of rubber strands used in the whole, and it therefore will be found advisable to use a somewhat heavier size of rubber in the remaining cords to compensate for this. The harness and chain draft for Fig. 2 are given at Fig. 2A.