Chapter VIII.

Designs Produced by Use of Jacquard in Connection with Cams or Head Motion—Weaving Buttonholes in Webs—Manufacture of Surgical Belts and Bandages—Combination Woven and Printed Designs—Method of Printing

In previous articles we have confined our remarks to the production of elastic fabrics on plain and fancy looms. These machines are more or less limited in capacity, and the stock must be operated in groups of threads. Considerable care is necessary in the selection of patterns best adapted to these looms. In jacquard weaving each separate thread is controllable, and the scope of pattern and design is limited only by the space available on the face of the fabric.

Of course certain general rules, which have been laid down for the production of designs on fancy looms, are applicable to the making of jacquard designs. For example, where sunken effects are aimed at it is necessary to uniformly distribute the buried stock, just as it is in the fancy loom method; otherwise uneven or “cockled” web will result on account of there being too much buried stock at some particular point, which prevents uniform contraction.