Chapter XI.
WEAVING THE VAN HEUSEN COLLAR
Heavy Loom Required—How Long-Sided Effect and Folding Line Are Obtained—Cloth Construction
Until recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from plain piece goods. The patented Van Heusen collar has done away with much of this, for from the loom is produced a fabric properly shaped and formed for the purpose, and ready to be cut into suitable lengths. It is adapted to various styles. Clumsy joinings are done away with and a collar is produced which combines shape, comfort and appearance. Much labor in collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this method of production.
There have recently been quite a number of factories put on the production of these goods, and at least one newly organized factory is devoted exclusively to their manufacture. The main feature in the Van Heusen collar is that it is woven in such a manner that when it leaves the loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer part, with provision made for folding, thus doing away with any joining together of the two parts as formerly.
The formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band, properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar in comfort and fit, at the same time providing for the insertion of the scarf so that it will run easily, and also allowing for the production of a variety of styles, calls for features in manufacturing that are different in many respects from the making of a flat fabric.