Interchanging Figure and Face
Fig. 5 shows another type of design known as the “interchanging” fancy in which the figure warp does not pile up above the surface as it does in the stitch figure, but remains flat with the face of the web. The harness and chain drafts are shown at Fig. 5A. In this character of design a given number of face threads are duplicated by a like number of figure threads, the same size of yarn being used for both. These face and figure threads are drawn in duplicate harnesses and operated just reverse to each other, so that when the figure is up at any particular part, the interchanging face threads are down, and vice versa. The figure weaves only three picks up on the chain draft, which is one face pick seen on the face cloth, and this produces a perfectly flat web.
Another form of elaboration is shown in this web, known as the “picot” edge. It is generally made of a well cabled thread of silk and is woven in the selvage, being bound in for several picks and then allowed to float outside, so that upon the contraction of the web it will pearl out in small loops, adding much to the elaboration of the web.