Method of Reeding
The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to each dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in using a 26½ dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in the next, splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work much easier, and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing” caused by the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the bleaching process.
Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar
The folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the collar is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at the desired point, only retaining the face and back threads. The position of the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style of the collar desired.
There are 104 picks per inch, counting at the folded line, as there are more on the short side and less on the long side. High grade 60/2 C. P. yarn is used throughout. The goods are woven in the gray and bleached afterwards.