Interlined Draperies
Draperies are often interlined, particularly in very formal rooms, or when the character of the material is such that the extra weight is necessary for its protection. Interlining also adds to the draping quality and elegance of the fabric.
For an interlining fabric, use good quality cotton flannel. Cut interlining the exact measurements of draperies when finished; that is, if draperies have 1½″ hems on each side and 3″ hems, top and bottom, then cut interlining 3″ narrower and 6″ shorter than drapery fabric. Spread material right side down.
Tack interlining to drapery at center and between center and side hems.
3″ TACK DOWN THROUGH CENTER INTERLINING FOLDED LENGTHWISE FOR TACKING 1½″
Turn and baste hems—side, top, and bottom.
UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL INTERLINING
Fold interlining through lengthwise center. Place fold on exact center of drapery fabric and tack together loosely. Take a stitch in the drapery; bring needle up through fold of interlining and leave a loop. Space about 6″; take a stitch in drapery, then interlining, then drapery, etc. Do not pull thread taut. When row is finished, fold interlining halfway between center and edge on both sides and tack in the same manner, making three rows of vertical tacking.
Catch-stitch hems to interlining.
Turn side hems back over interlining. Pin and baste. Then turn top and bottom hems. Pin and baste. Miter hems at corners. All hems may be catch-stitched to the interlining, and the lining slip-stitched to top and side hems. Linings may also be joined by machine. Turn hem and baste; then pin lining to drapery and stitch, taking ½″ seam. Press seam as stitched. Then clip and press seam open the same as for all lined curtains and draperies.
Turn sides and top of lining under ½″. Pin in place, slip-stitch.
When lining is joined to drapery by machine, tack interlining and lining together along seam. Take stitch in seam, then in interlining. Space stitching 3″ or 4″ apart. Do not draw thread taut. Turn top and bottom hems and catch-stitch. Pin lining to hem across the top and slip-stitch. Turn hem in lining and stitch. Allowance should be made for a 2″ hem, overlapping the hem in drapery approximately 1″. Use french tacks between lining hem and drapery to hold lining in place. Use either ‘sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weight at bottom of side hems.
When lining is machine stitched to drapery, tack seam to interlining.
French tacks hold drapery and lining together.
Measuring for Pleats
The use of pleats is one of the most effective ways of controlling the fullness of a drapery that is made to hang in balanced, graceful folds. The types most generally used are the pinch pleat, the French pleat, the box pleat and the cartridge pleat.
Pleats should be made in groups of uneven numbers, 5-7-9, or as many as are required to take up the amount allowed for fullness. For very sheer fabrics, the allowance for fullness should be 3 times the width of the window or space to be covered. To figure the spacings and amount to be taken up in pleats, take the measurement of the space to be covered plus the return; that is, the distance from turn of rod to the wall or the bracket supporting the rod on either end, plus the overlap at the center when curtains are drawn together. The width allowed for draperies minus these three measurements is to be taken up in pleats.
The fullness of each type of pleat and space between depends on the weight of the material and amount allowed for fullness of the curtain.
For Example: If one half of the width to be covered is 49″ then one section of the drapery would be about 144″ wide after finishing side hems. To width of window area (49″), add 3″ for return and 1″ for center overlap. This totals 53″. 144″ minus 53″ equals 91″ for pleats. Allowing 7″ for each pleat, 13 pleats will be required to take up the fullness.
Please Note—3″ for return is used as an example. The return can be 4″ or 5″, depending on type of rod or bracket. Always measure the return.