Steps to Pleats
Always measure and mark the exact position and width for all pleats and spacings before stitching.
Measure the width of the return from outer edge. Then measure for the first pleat at the curve of the rod. Place second pleat on opposite side 2″ from center edge. The third pleat is placed at the exact center between the first and second pleat. The remaining number of pleats required is evenly spaced between the 1st and 3rd and between the 2nd and 3rd pleats. To form pleats, bring markings for pleats together. Pin; then stitch from top to ¾″ below the heading, reversing the stitch at either end.
1. Bring the markings together for pleat and pin.
2. Stitch from top to about ¾″ below heading, reversing stitch at each end.
These steps are the same for all types of pleats.
Pinch Pleat—Divide the large pleat evenly into three smaller pleats; press in firmly and stitch across the three folds at lower edge of heading. The Pinch pleat is a favorite finish for most types of draperies and is particularly good when draperies are made of a heavier fabric.
French Pleat—At lower edge of heading, divide large pleat into three smaller pleats and run needle and thread through three pleats several times, drawing thread tight. Then fasten thread securely underneath.
Box Pleat—The large pleat is spread an equal distance on each side of stitching and pressed flat. Box pleats should be about 2″ wide, taking up 4″ fullness.
When figuring these pleats, try for uniformity; that is, the space between each pleat (from fold to fold) should be the same as the width of pleat. Box pleats should be about 2″ wide, taking up 4″ fullness.
Cartridge Pleat—This is a round pleat left loose and filled with cotton, Kapok or a roll of stiff paper. The pleats take up 2″ to 2½″ and are spaced from 2″ to 3″ apart for draw type draperies.
1. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from traverse rod.
2. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from rod with rings or from traverse rod mounted against ceiling.