FROM RAMLEH TO JERUSALEM.—THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
All the dragomans had told the travellers before leaving Jaffa that there was a small hotel at Ramleh, kept by a German, where a dozen or twenty persons could be accommodated, and there were convents of the Latin and Russian churches which served as hotels. They might have their choice, provided the place where he first applied was not already full. The boys thought it would be more interesting to go to one of the convents than to a hotel, and the rest of the party agreed with them; accordingly, it was arranged that they should spend the night either at the Latin or Russian establishment. When they were within a couple of miles of Ramleh Ali rode ahead at a gallop to arrange the matter, leaving the travellers to follow more leisurely.
A SYRIAN HORSEMAN.
A messenger met them at the entrance of the town with the announcement that they were to put up at the Russian convent. As they rode along the Doctor explained to the boys that the "convents" were more properly hostelries, or hotels for the accommodation of pilgrims on their way to and from the holy places of the country. They are sustained by the churches to which they belong. Those who can afford to pay for their entertainment are expected to do so, the same as at a hotel: but no bill is presented, nor is any payment demanded. Poor pilgrims are received free, but their accommodations are much inferior to those for the traveller with a well-lined purse. The large number of Russians, Greeks, and other Christians annually visiting Palestine renders the maintenance of these convents a necessity.
Our friends found the Russian convent so much like a hotel that they would never have known the difference if they had not been told of it. The lower story of the building served as a stable; the second story was reached by a flight of steps on the outside, which brought them to an open court surrounded by rooms that greatly resembled the cells of a prison. But the rooms were comfortably though plainly furnished, and as the youths were fatigued with their ride, and the other exertions of the day, they had no difficulty in sleeping. There was an hour to spare before supper, and the party went to see the curiosities of the place. Frank said they would take a walk to get up an appetite, to which Fred retorted that he thought the ride was enough to satisfy any reasonable being on that score.
THE TOWER OF RAMLEH (FROM THOMSON'S "THE LAND AND THE BOOK").
The principal sight of Ramleh is the Tower, which is visible for quite a distance, and forms a conspicuous landmark. Its history is not definitely known, but it is supposed to have been originally the tower of a Christian church. The church was destroyed by the Moslems, and the tower left standing, in order that it might serve as the minaret of the mosque erected on the site of the Christian edifice. The Tower is about a hundred feet high altogether, and its summit can be reached by means of steps in the interior. Ivy and other vines give it an appearance of age and neglect, and on the top bushes have sprung up from seeds carried there by the birds.
Doctor Thomson gives a fine view of this structure in "The Land and the Book," and says he was once detained for some time at Ramleh. Nearly every day he ascended to the summit of the Tower, and was enchanted with the view. He wrote as follows in his journal:
"The view from the top of the Tower is inexpressibly grand. The whole plain of Sharon, from the mountains of Judea and Samaria to the sea, and from the foot of Carmel to the sandy deserts of Philistia, lies spread out like an illuminated map. Beautiful as vast, and diversified as beautiful, the eye is fascinated, and the imagination enchanted, especially when the last rays of the setting sun light up the white villages which sit or hang upon the many-shaped declivities of the mountains. What a paradise was here when Solomon reigned in Jerusalem, and sung of 'the roses of Sharon!'"
Our friends ascended the Tower and found that the description was by no means overdrawn. The mountains on one side, the undulating ground at their feet, the plain between them and the waters of the Mediterranean—all were there, and above them spread the clear blue dome of the sky of the East. They lingered till the lengthening shadows told them the sunset was near and it was time to depart.
Descending from the Tower, they were shown some vaults beneath the site of the mosque that once stood here. According to tradition, these vaults were the sepulchres of many Christian martyrs, and there is reason to believe that the underground chambers were formerly much more extensive than at present, many of them having been filled up and abandoned. Various attempts have been made to identify Ramleh with some of the places named in sacred history, but none of them have been successful. Some writers think it was the Arimathea mentioned in the Bible, and the monks claim that the Latin church occupies the site of the house of Joseph of Arimathea. The Arab writers say the town was founded in the eighth century by one of their rulers, and they assert that its name is purely Arabic, and without the slightest trace of any other language. Dr. Bronson suggested that it was hardly worth their while to investigate the origin of Ramleh, and, after looking at the bazaar, and studying the exterior of a few of the principal buildings, they returned to the Russian convent, and prepared for a good rest, with the view of making an early start for Jerusalem in the morning.
They were up long before daybreak—they breakfasted by the light of a weak candle—and, just as the sun was preparing to show himself at the eastern horizon, they mounted their horses, and rode away in the direction of the Holy City.
At the edge of the town they found a row of beggars drawn up at the roadside, or, rather, squatted on the ground, and imploring the travellers for charity. Several were blind, and others had lost their hands or fingers, and held up the mutilated stumps to attract attention. The guide said that some of them were lepers; but the majority had caused their hands to be cut off, or it had been done by their parents, in order to fit them for the mendicant profession.
Frank gave a small coin to one of the beggars, and immediately all that could walk joined in pursuing the travellers, who only escaped annoyance by quickening the speed of their horses. The Doctor said it was one of the misfortunes of thus attempting to be charitable in Syria, that you are immediately beset by all the beggars in sight. The one to whom you have made a donation joins in the assault, and clamors for more, and sometimes he is more persistent than any of the rest. A traveller is apt to have his heart hardened under such circumstances, and, as it is impossible for him to give to everybody, he very soon settles the matter by refusing to give at all. The government has suppressed the beggars of Ramleh by moving them to other localities. The most of them find their way back again before long, and the places of those who do not return are speedily filled by others.
ROAD IN THE FOOT-HILLS.
For three hours the route was much like that of the day before—though, as they approached the mountains, the land was less fertile, and the products of the plain gave place to those of the higher ground. At Bab-el-Wady, or the Gate of the Glen, they entered the mountains, and left the low land of Sharon behind them. Occasionally looking back, they found they were steadily rising, as the land lay lower and lower at each view, and the shining waters of the Mediterranean occupied a larger space in the horizon. The guide pointed out the ruins of a village which tradition asserts was the residence of the thief who became penitent on the cross. The region was once a resort of robbers, and down to the beginning of the present century, and even later, it had a very bad reputation. There is a small hotel at the entrance of the valley. The guide had arranged that luncheon should be served here, and the result of the morning's ride made everybody ready to sit down as soon as the table was prepared.
They were now among the hills of Judea, and during the rest of their journey an abundance of historical events were brought to their notice. Job's Well was pointed out on the right of the road, and beyond it, on the crest of a hill, was a dilapidated building called Job's Monastery. The guide called their attention to the village of Abu Gosh, and said its modern name was given to it in the early part of the present century. According to the historians it is identical with Baalah, mentioned in Joshua xv. 9, and was famous as the place where the Ark of the Covenant was deposited for a long time. There is an old church near the village, but they did not stop to examine it. They were anxious to see the Holy City as soon as possible, and every moment of delay was of great importance.
The road was dreary enough as it wound among the rocky hills; it was so crooked in many places that it could only be made out for short distances in advance of the party, and sometimes the hills seemed to threaten to shut them in altogether. Every little while they came upon narrow valleys, where stretches and patches of arable land were utilized as much as possible for the production of garden vegetables or for miniature plantations of olive-trees. Here and there villages clung to the hill-sides, the houses rising one above another in terraces, and suggesting a series of broad steps on which a giant of the stature of Goliath might take a walk.
VIEW OF JERUSALEM FROM THE EAST.
As they wound up one of the ascents the guide said they would see Jerusalem from the summit. Everybody was in haste for the view, and it happened that Frank and Fred were in advance when the crest of the hill was reached. Frank rose in his stirrups, waved his cap with a loud hurrah, and his example was followed by his cousin. As they reached the top of the hill they stopped, and in less than a minute their comrades were with them. All gazed in admiration at the Holy City. There it lay, bathed in the sun of Palestine, and crowning the rocky hills where it has stood for many centuries, the wonder of the civilized world and the goal which many a Christian pilgrim has struggled to reach. For several minutes not a word was spoken. The towers and walls, the hills of Israel, the domes and minarets, all were there, and recalled the pictures with which all students of Christianity are familiar.
When the silence was broken, one of the party repeated the lines of Tasso which describe the first view of Jerusalem by the Crusaders:
"Winged is each heart, and winged every heel;
They fly, yet notice scarce how fast they fly,
But by the time the dewless meads reveal
The golden sun ascended in the sky,
Lo! towered Jerusalem salutes the eye.
A thousand pointing fingers tell the tale—
'Jerusalem!' a thousand voices cry;
'All hail, Jerusalem!' Hill, down, and dale
Catch the glad sound, and shout 'Jerusalem, all hail!'"
It was a ride of less than an hour from the hill-top to the Jaffa gate of Jerusalem. They passed the building of the Russian convent and of the Greek monastery, but had no care for anything else than the Holy City, and to get inside its walls. The gate was open, the Turkish guard did not stop them, and in a few minutes they were at the door of the Mediterranean Hotel. They were weary with their ride, but the excitement of the occasion made the youths forget their fatigue. Frank proposed that they should set out at once for the Temple of Solomon, and he was warmly seconded by Fred. They yielded at once to the suggestion of Doctor Bronson that they had better wait till the whole party could go together, and see the city on a systematic plan.
We will not follow our friends in all their wanderings around Jerusalem, but refer our readers to the accounts which were written by the youths for the benefit of their friends at home. After describing the ride from Jaffa, the experience on the road, and their arrival at Jerusalem, they wrote as follows:
"Jerusalem disappoints us a little, as we had expected wider and cleaner streets than we find here. We were partly prepared for this, as we have been in the cities of Egypt, and spent a few hours at Jaffa, but it is our candid opinion that Jerusalem is worse than Cairo, Suez, or any other city we have visited. The streets are very narrow, the pavement is bad, and nobody seems to care whether they are clean or not. Some of the side streets and alleys would do honor to New York, and Doctor Bronson says they remind him of home more than anything else he has seen here.
PLAN OF JERUSALEM.
"You may think Jerusalem is a large city; if you do you have made a mistake. The population is estimated between twenty and twenty-four thousand, and the best authorities say it does not exceed the latter figure. The Moslems do not take the census as we do; they count the families, and then make an average of the number in each family, and they don't do that very often. On the basis of twenty-four thousand inhabitants, they count thirteen thousand Moslems, seven thousand Christians, and four thousand Jews. The city was much larger in ancient times than it is at present. We cannot say exactly when it had its greatest population, as the old writers do not agree; but it was quite likely in the reign of King Solomon. The population at that time has been placed as high as half a million, but was probably not over half that number. We need not trouble ourselves on the subject, as it is the modern Jerusalem we are looking at now.
"Jerusalem has suffered more from wars than any other city in the world, or, at all events, more than any city we have seen. It has been captured no less than seventeen times, if we may believe the historians, and some of them say that on several occasions the inhabitants have been slaughtered, the buildings destroyed, and the ground sown with salt. The question that comes up to us is, 'Where did they get the salt for that purpose?' Most of these terrible events in the history of Jerusalem occurred hundreds, and some of them thousands, of years ago. The traces of the old walls of Jerusalem are visible in many places, and any visitor can easily satisfy himself that the city was once much larger than it is at present.
"As soon as we had brushed up a little after our ride from Ramleh we went out to see the city and take a stroll through the streets of this interesting place.
"Near the front of the hotel is the Tower of David on Mount Zion, along with several other buildings. There is a good deal of dispute as to the antiquity of the tower, and whether it is really the one built by King David or not. The general belief is that the foundations are the same, while the superstructure is more modern. The Church of Mount Zion was founded during the fourth century, but has been rebuilt two or three times, its present form having been given to it four or five hundred years ago. Near the church is a monastery, and its inmates call themselves the Guardians of Mount Zion. A hospital is attached to the monastery, and there is a lodging-house where poor pilgrims are received and cared for during their stay in Jerusalem.
"We went down the Street of David, which passes in front of the Mediterranean Hotel, and leads from the Jaffa Gate to Mount Moriah. We told the guide that we wanted to see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. When we had gone a short distance on the Street of David we turned to the left into Christ Street, and in a few minutes were in front of the church that is revered as the burial place of our Saviour.
"There is an open space in front like a little square surrounded by buildings. We were reminded of the money-changers in the Temple as we approached the church. The space in front of it was filled with peddlers and beggars, principally the former, and there was hardly a moment when we were free from their importunities. The goods offered for sale were photographs, and curiosities from various parts of the Holy Land, together with rosaries, charms, and similar trifles made from olive-wood, the seeds of the olive-tree, or mother-of-pearl. To judge by the numbers of these itinerent merchants they must do a good business among the visitors to this sacred spot.
"Wherever we stood to look at the building before us we were surrounded by these fellows, and we thought how little the customs of the East have changed since Christ came on earth. The guide said the peddlers paid a license for the privilege of selling their goods here, and it is more than probable that the beggars have a similar authority for their importunities.
"The church was closed when we arrived, and we learned that it was only open on certain hours of the day. There have been so many quarrels among the monks that the building has been put in the care of a Moslem guard, and the key is kept by a Moslem official. There is great jealousy between the different sects—Latin, Greek, and Armenian—and the Moslems have been obliged to step in to keep the peace! More than once there have been such fierce quarrels that blows have been struck, and blood has been shed within the walls of the church!
"We did not enter the church at that time, but as we visited it afterward, and went through all parts of it, we may as well describe it while we are here.
THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
"To begin with, there has been a great deal of controversy concerning the spot where the church stands, some authorities contending that it is where Christ was buried, while others insist that the Golgotha mentioned in the Scriptures was a considerable distance outside the walls. There are many traditions concerning it, and it would take more time than we can spare to give even a short account of them. So we will drop the discussion of the question, and tell what we saw. If you want more information you will find plenty of books on the subject.
"We paid a backsheesh to the Moslem custodians who were stationed at the entrance, and one of them accompanied us to see that we did not disturb anything, and also in the expectation of a fee when we were through with his services.
GROUND-PLAN OF THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
1. Principal door; 4. Tomb of Godfrey; 5. Tomb of Baldwin; 6. Tomb of Melchizedek; 7. Chapel of Adam and John the Baptist; 8. Tomb of Adam; 11. Place where the Virgin Mary stood while the body was anointed; 13. Chapel of the Angel; 17. Tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus; 19. Greek "Centre of the World;" 27. Where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalene; 28. Where Mary Magdalene stood; 30. Part of the Pillar of Flagellation; 32. Where Christ appeared to his Mother after the resurrection; 33. Place of the recognition of the Cross; 35. Place of Christ's bonds; 36. Chapel of the Virgin; 38. Chapel of Longinus the Centurion; 39. Chapel of the Mocking; 41. Chapel of St. Helena; 42. Chapel of the Penitent Thief; 44. Chapel of the Finding of the Cross.
"Close to the entrance of the church we came to the Stone of Unction, where the body of Christ was laid to be anointed (John xix. 38-40). It is a slab of marble surrounded with an iron railing. The guide said it was above the real stone, in order that the latter might not be injured by the thousands of pilgrims that come here, and are frequently desirous of carrying away some relic of the place.
"A short distance beyond this place we came to the spot where the Virgin Mary stood while the Saviour's body lay on the Stone of Unction. We paused there only a moment, and then went to the next and greatest object of interest, the Holy Sepulchre.
THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
"The sepulchre is in the rotunda of the church, which has been reconstructed several times, and has changed a good deal in shape since the original building was erected. The sepulchre is a small building, twenty-six feet by eighteen, entirely of marble, and with holes in the roof, to allow the escape of the smoke from the lamps which burn here continually. We first entered what is called the Angel's Chamber. It has in the centre a stone set in marble, and the priests in charge of the place say it is the stone that was rolled from the mouth of the sepulchre by the angel. It is probable that the stone has been changed many times since the crucifixion. The Armenians claim that they have the real stone in their monastery on Mount Zion, and the Latin monks accuse them of having stolen it.
"The sepulchre is entered from the Angel's Chapel. It is about seven feet square, and has the sepulchral couch at one side covered with a marble slab. The space is so small that we could not all go inside at once, and the rule is that not more than three or four shall be admitted together. The inside of the room is divided among four religious bodies—the Copts, Greeks, Armenians, and Latins. The Copts have four lamps burning there, and the other three sects have each thirteen. They take turns in the performance of religious services in the altar, and when they are thus engaged the Moslem guard stands near to see that there is no interference.
"We found it was not easy to believe that the sepulchre was hewn in the solid rock, as the monks declare it to have been. Every foot of space is so completely covered with marble that no part of the original rock is visible. The marble was placed here hundreds of years ago, when the traditions were more authentic than at present, and perhaps it is not worth while to dispute them.
"From the Holy Sepulchre we went to many places of interest to all students of Christianity; they were so numerous that it was impossible to remember all of them, and we went about so rapidly that we did not even have time to make a complete list. We therefore refer to our guide-book, and will try to give their names, but without pretending to follow the order in which we saw them.
"It seemed very odd to us that so many places mentioned in Scripture should all be found under the roof of a single church. But, whatever may be our opinions concerning their authenticity, they were all very interesting, and we shall long retain the memory of what we saw and heard while within the walls of this famous building. We thought we were there not more than half an hour, but found we had passed over two hours in the visit: you can see how much we were absorbed in the subject when the time flew away so fast.
"Here are the places and objects that were pointed out:
"The Chapel of the Apparition, where Christ appeared to his mother after the resurrection.
"The Column of the Scourging.
"The Latin Sacristy, containing the sword, spurs, and cross of Godfrey de Bouillon.
"Fragment of a Column, said to occupy the centre of the world.
"The Prison of Christ, where he was kept while his cross was being made ready for the crucifixion.
"Chapel of St. Longinus, the soldier who pierced the side of Christ after his death.
"Chapel of the Parting of the Raiment.
"Column of the Derision, where Christ stood when he was crowned with thorns.
"Chapel of St. Helena, containing the seat where the Empress Helena sat while the cross was being sought for. Near it is the Chapel of the Finding of the Cross, and the spot is indicated where the cross was discovered. The Chapel of St. Helena is reached by descending twenty-nine steps from the floor of the church, and the Chapel of the Cross is a cavern in the rock, thirteen steps farther down.
"From this spot we ascended to the floor of the church and were taken to Golgotha, or Mount Calvary, by an ascent of about fifteen feet. Remember that everything we have mentioned is under the roof of the church, or, rather, of the different buildings that have been erected to make up the church. An architect who goes through it can readily perceive that the construction was not all of the same period, and that several men must have planned the various portions. The first chapel on Mount Calvary was erected by the Emperor Constantine, but it has been rebuilt two or three times, so that little if anything remains of it.
"The first chapel we entered in this part of the church was that of the Raising of the Cross. They showed us the hole in the rock where the cross stood, and about five feet on either side were the crosses of the two thieves. The cleft in the rock, mentioned in Matt. xxvi. 51, was pointed out in this chapel, and then we went to the next where Christ was nailed to the cross, the positions being indicated by pieces of marble in the floor. Beyond this is the Chapel of the Agony, which is reached by a short stairway; it is a small chapel, and belongs to the Latin monks, while the Chapel of the Raising of the Cross is the property of the Greeks.
"Every day when the church is open to the public a good many pilgrims come there to worship at the sepulchre of the founder of Christianity. At Easter and other festivals the number is very large, and sometimes the building is densely crowded. For a long time the Moslems used to make all visitors pay heavily for the privilege of entering the church, but of late years they have not been permitted to extort backsheesh. We went there at an hour when the church was closed, and were, consequently, obliged to pay the custodian before the key was produced.
"We did not go to the cistern of the Empress Helena, as it would have prolonged our stay somewhat, and our time was limited. While we were in the Chapel of the Finding of the Cross the guide told us the tradition of how the Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine, directed the excavation, and was present when the three crosses were unearthed. A woman suffering from an incurable disease was brought and placed upon two of them without any benefit; as soon as she touched the third she rose and walked away in perfect health. By this it was determined which was the true cross, and from that time its fragments have been distributed among the cathedrals and churches of Europe and other countries."