A VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELDS
From Paris the tour can be easily made in three days.
1st day.—Paris—Château-Thierry—Belleau Wood.
2nd day.—Château-Thierry—Soissons.
3rd day.—Soissons—Fismes—Paris.
The roads are shown on the Michelin Map of France (scale, 1:200.000, or about 3.15 miles per inch), sheets Nos. 11 and 6.
DESCRIPTION OF THE TOUR.
(See outline map, p. 39.)
The following itinerary includes practically all the places in the battle area where the troops of the 1st and 3rd American Army Corps distinguished themselves.
In May, 1919, deeply moving traces of the fierce fighting were visible all along the road, and will probably long continue to exist.
The ruined villages are as the shells and bombs left them. Everywhere are branchless trees and stumps, shell craters roughly filled in, trenches, barbed wire entanglements, and shelters for men and ammunition. Thousands of shells, shell casings, rifles, gun-limbers, and machine-guns lie scattered about.
Corpses are occasionally seen.
Before the War this part of the country was one of the prettiest and most interesting in France. In nearly every village there was either an old church, a castle, or ruins of archæological interest.
1st day.—PARIS—CHÂTEAU-THIERRY.
Leave Paris by the Avenue Jean Jaurès, Pantin Gate, and the National Road N. 3.
(At the Toll-Gate ask for a “bon de réintroduction” (free) for the gasoline in the tank and reserve tins. This will enable the tourist, on his return, to enter Paris with a similar quantity of gasoline free of charge.)
N. 3 goes straight ahead and is easy to follow, the “milestones” being plainly marked “N. 3.”
The localities of Pantin, Bondy, Livry, Villeparisis, and Claye are successively passed through, Meaux being afterwards reached by the Route de Paris and the Rue du Faubourg St. Remi.
(See the Michelin Illustrated Guide, “The Battle of the Marne, 1914,” for directions for visiting this beautiful, historical city, and for a detailed description of the fighting in this sector.)
Turn to the right, pass under the railway bridge, continue straight along the Rue St. Remi, skirt the Cathedral, then follow the Rue St. Nicolas and the Rue du Faubourg St. Nicolas.
The following villages are next passed through without difficulty: Trilport, St. Jean-les-deux-Jumeaux and Sammeron, after which the tourist arrives at La Ferté-sous-Jouarre. Turn to the left into the Rue de Condé, and again to the left into the Rue du Faubourg, cross the Marne, and continue straight ahead along the Rue du Pelletier and Rue du Limon. Crossing over the railway the road turns to the right, rising above the valley of the Marne. Montreuil is next passed through.
Just before entering Le Thiolet (the first ruined village on the tour), along the left side of the road, there is an American Cemetery.
Shortly after, Vaux is reached, but before coming to it, another American Cemetery will be seen to the left of the road.
This village, which is situated in a hollow, was literally wiped out (photo, p. 60). The ruins in the bottom of the valley, to the right of the road, are most impressive. (The tourist will visit them on his way to Essommes, as per the Itinerary.)
The road skirts Hill 204, which dominates the surrounding country on the right, and which was hotly disputed (p. 62).
Before passing under the railway bridge, on the high ground to the right, will be seen the ruins of what was once the pretty village of Courteau.
Château-Thierry is reached soon afterwards by the Avenue Clemenceau.
CHÂTEAU-THIERRY DURING THE WAR.
September, 1914.
On September 2, 1914, the town was almost encircled by the Germans. While the German batteries posted above Courteau (the tourist passed by this village before entering the town, see above) were firing on the railway station and the Place-du-Champ-de-Mars, their troops debouched by the Essommes and Paris roads at about five in the afternoon. The French fell back at 11 p.m. On September 3, German troops pillaged the town. On the 9th, the Franco-British troops relieved the town.
June—July, 1918.
On June 1, 1918, the town was retaken by the German Conta Corps, after fierce street fighting, in which the French Colonial Infantry, gallantly supported by American troops, inflicted severe losses on the enemy. The defence of Château-Thierry is one of the episodes of which the Americans are justly proud.
On May 31, sections of the American Machine-Gun Corps were placed at the disposal of the French Commander, who was defending the town, which was in danger of being outflanked. They were hardly out of the trucks, when they were rushed into the battle in support of the French Colonials.
Throughout the long street fighting their fine marksmanship, cool courage and clever manœuvring excited the admiration of their French comrades. When night fell, thanks to their aid, the enemy had been forced back to the outskirts of the town.
At 9 p.m. on June 1, the Germans, under cover of night, and protected by a dense smoke screen, counter-attacked, creeping along the river-side towards the great bridge, the defence of which had been entrusted to the Americans, with orders to hold it until the Colonials, who were fighting on the far side of the river, should fall back. This they did until the last of the French troops had passed over, when they withdrew. When the Germans debouched in front of the bridge, the latter blew up, and the few who had succeeded in crossing before the explosion were taken prisoners by the Americans, who had calmly posted their guns on the south bank of the river.
AMERICAN MACHINE-GUNS DO DEADLY EXECUTION IN THE GARDENS OF CHÂTEAU-THIERRY.
Throughout June and the first half of July, stiff fighting took place around the town, especially in Courteau Wood at the top of Hill 204. After being retaken by the Allies on June 6, this hill was constantly disputed, and repeatedly changed hands. The Germans, who were preparing their offensive of July 15, between Château-Thierry and Rheims, attached great importance to this position, which covered their right flank and dominated Château-Thierry. From July onwards the Allies, by a series of local operations, approached the town. On the night of July 1-2, the Americans captured the village of Vaux (which the tourist passed through before entering Château-Thierry), taking 400 prisoners belonging to the 201st German division. Enemy counter-attacks failed to win back the village.
The Americans also advanced to the east of Hill 204, and finally recaptured it on July 9 during a night attack.
The Allies’ successful counter-offensive of July 18 completely cleared Château-Thierry. On July 21, with their front pierced on the north and east, the enemy was forced to abandon the town, which was then entered by General Degoutte’s Army.
CHÂTEAU-THIERRY PLUNDERED BY THE GERMANS.
When the Franco-American troops entered Château-Thierry, the town had been methodically sacked. The enemy emptied the houses of everything portable, including mattresses, metallic articles, etc. The churches were likewise despoiled. In the case of St. Crépin’s Church the Germans had not time to carry off the whole of the plunder. The photograph, p. 43, shows what was hurriedly left behind, part being packed in cases, the rest, including a fireman’s brass helmet stolen from the fire-station, lying scattered about.
THE FRENCH PRIME MINISTER, M. CLEMENCEAU, CONGRATULATING THE AMERICAN TROOPS ON THE BATTLEFIELD AT CHÂTEAU-THIERRY.
(From “l’Illustration.”)
BOOTY COLLECTED BY THE GERMANS IN THE CHURCH OF ST. CRÉPIN.
That portion of the population which had remained in the town was locked up in this church on the night before the deliverance.
The houses had literally been turned upside down, as the Americans, who entered the town with the French, can testify. Packing-cases full of clothing, linen, and all kinds of objects had been got ready to send to Germany, as the labels nailed on the cases prove. (See official photos.)
What the Germans could not carry away they broke, mutilated, or spoilt. Here was another example of their practice of spreading systematic ruin and desolation wherever they went.
To use the ex-Kaiser’s own expression, the entire region was left “a barren waste.” Special detachments of troops had orders to collect and remove all machinery, tools, raw materials, furniture, food, etc., in the districts occupied.
AFTER A VISIT FROM THE GERMANS! ROOM IN HOUSE AT NO. 26 RUE ST. MARTIN.
CHÂTEAU_THIERRY
VISIT TO THE TOWN.
(For particulars of the hotels, repair mechanics, etc., see inside of cover.)
Dominated on the North by the ruined towers of its ancient castle, Château-Thierry lies in the valley, between the wooded sides of which winds the River Marne.
Entering the town by the Avenue Clemenceau, keep straight on along the Promenade-de-la-Levée, which leads to the Champ-de-Mars Square.
From here can be seen the ruins of a fine stone bridge, built by Perronet in 1768, of which only a single arch remains. The others have been temporarily replaced by a foot-way.
In front is a statue (by Laitié, 1824) of La Fontaine, the fabulist; the lower part of the left leg was broken by a shell splinter.
The photograph below shows the destroyed bridge, and the Rue Carnot which continues it. The Route de Montmirail (now Avenue du Président Poincaré) is visible in the background, as also are barricades placed by the Franco-Americans across the Rue Carnot.
CHÂTEAU-THIERRY BRIDGE AFTER IT WAS BLOWN UP.
ITALIAN INFANTRY CROSSING CHÂTEAU-THIERRY BRIDGE, OF WHICH ONLY ONE ARCH REMAINS.
M. CLEMENCEAU ON CHÂTEAU-THIERRY BRIDGE A FEW HOURS AFTER THE GERMANS HAD LEFT.
(From “l’Illustration.”)
To the left of the Place du Champ-de-Mars, and in the direction of the Hôtel-de-Ville, take the Rue du Maréchal Pétain.
On the right of this street is the Belhan Tower (Belfry), which was formerly part of the Belhan Mansion (16th century). At the end of the Rue du Maréchal Pétain, the Hôtel-de-Ville (of which the Palais is Renaissance) comes into view. One of the turrets was destroyed by the bombardments, while shell splinters have scarred the building. The immediate surroundings suffered greatly from shell-fire. The photo below shows the Rue du Maréchal Pétain in perspective.
The first enemy line of resistance was established at the entrance to this street, in front of No. 27. Behind, barricades of paving stones and earth were raised (see photo), the largest of which closed the end of the street, making it possible to pass unseen from the Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville to the Rue du Général Degoutte.
On the right of this photo is seen the commencement of the Rue du Général Degoutte.
THE RUE DU MARÉCHAL PÉTAIN AFTER THE GERMANS HAD LEFT.
In the background is seen a barricade.
(From “l’Illustration.”)
VIEW OF CHÂTEAU-THIERRY SEEN FROM THE TERRACE OF THE CASTLE.
To visit the Castle, go up the wide steps on the left of the Hôtel-de-Ville, which lead to the Ramparts. The panoramic view above was taken from these stairs.
In the foreground are seen: the Hôtel-de-Ville with its damaged turret, the Hôtel-de-Ville Square (where the market is held), the Belfry, and the Rue du Maréchal Pétain.
At the top of the steps, turn to the right and follow the ramparts as far as the entrance to the Park (photo below). Enter the latter, which occupies the entire site of the old castle, and go round it, to get a general view of the town and outskirts. To visit the subterranean passages, apply to the keeper at the small lodge in the middle of the park.
ENTRANCE TO THE CASTLE PARK.
On leaving the park turn to the left to get a view of the Old Entrance to the Castle, which consists of a pointed arch flanked by two large circular towers (photo p. 64).
Return to the Entrance Gate of the Park, then to the Hôtel-de-Ville, via the Rue du Château, in which is St. John’s Hospital (or Hôtel-Dieu), founded by Jeanne, Queen of France and Navarre, in 1304, and rebuilt in 1876.
On arriving at the Hôtel-de-Ville, cross the Square, and follow the Rue du Général Degoutte.
On the left are the Rue Dirigeon l’Ecart and the Rue Lefèvre-Maugras, which were also barricaded by the Germans.
On the right of the Rue du Général Degoutte is the steep Rue Jean-de-la-Fontaine, No. 13 being the house where the author of the celebrated fables was born.
Continue along the Rue du Général Degoutte, cross the Avenue du Maréchal Joffre, then take the Rue St. Crépin, in which is the church of that name. It was in this church that the Germans left behind a great quantity of booty during their hurried retreat. (See photo, p. 43.)
Its heavy square tower, with carved buttresses, is 15th century. The organ-loft, decorated with figures of the prophetesses and others, is 16th century.
The Rue St. Alpin is continued by the Rue St. Martin, which was sacked by the Germans. The photograph below was taken at No. 26.
The visit to the town finishes at the end of the Rue St. Martin, i.e. at the junction of this street with the Avenue Clemenceau.
The excursion to Belleau Wood, described on page 49, starts from here.
(Note for visitors arriving by train.—Leave the station by the Avenue de la Gare, turn to the left into the Avenue de la République, follow the latter as far as the Place Carnot, take the Rue Carnot (on the right of the square), at the end of which is the bridge over the Marne, where the itinerary above mentioned joins up.)
GERMAN VANDALISM. ROOM IN HOUSE AT NO. 26 RUE ST. MARTIN.
VISIT TO BELLEAU WOOD.
It was in the region that the tourist is about to visit that the Americans performed, at heavy cost, one of their most glorious feats of arms. The many graves seen on the way make the journey a veritable pilgrimage.
Leaving Château-Thierry by the Avenue Clemenceau (N. 3), pass under the railway bridge, taking another glance at the completely destroyed hamlet of Courteau on the left. At the top of the stiff rise, leave the main road (which runs to the left), and go straight along G.C. 9 towards Belleau and Torcy. On the left the road skirts the Roches Wood, where many shell-torn trees are lying on the ground. Numerous shell-holes are visible on either side of the road.
The farm-houses around here are in ruins. The clumps of trees, alternated with fields, which skirt the road, all bear marks of heavy shelling. Shelters will be noticed all along the road. Leave on the right the “Chemin Vicinal” (poor condition), leading to Etrepilly, which the Americans attacked and captured on July 20, 1918.
At about 2-1/2 miles from the fork where the tourist left the N. 3, Hill 190 becomes plainly visible on the right. It is a bare eminence, full of shell holes. The panorama on pages 50, 51 was taken from there.
(To reach Hill 190, leave the car at “milestone” No. 4, where the road, at the edge of a small wood, begins to descend. After following a hawthorn hedge for about five minutes the top of the hill will be reached.)
VISIT TO BELLEAU WOOD (28 miles).
PANORAMA OF BELLEAU WOOD SEEN FROM HILL 190.
In the above photograph (from left to right) are seen: the village of Bouresches, between two small hills; Belleau Wood, in the middle; the villages of Belleau and Torcy; and the hamlet of Givry on the right.
This region was grimly defended on June 1, 1918, by the “Devil’s Regiment,” as the Germans surnamed the 152nd French line regiment, on account of its daring exploits. Outflanked on June 2, this regiment was forced to withdraw from Torcy and Belleau to Belleau Wood, which was abandoned only after a heroic defence, and when the position was on the point of being turned. On June 3, after reforming behind the line of support furnished by the Americans, they counter-attacked Belleau Wood, advanced in spite of fierce counter-attacks by the enemy, and held all gains until night-fall, when they were relieved by the Americans. On June 7, Bouresches was retaken by the Allies. On the 8th, the Americans repulsed a violent attack extending from Belleau Wood to Le Thiolet, along a two-mile front. On the 9th, they broke up a new German attack near Bouresches. From June 10 to 26, fierce fighting enabled them to improve their positions. On the latter date they took 240 prisoners south of Torcy and 264 in Belleau Wood. On the 25th, they completed the capture of this wood.
THE CAPTURE OF BELLEAU WOOD.
It was on June 3, 1918, that the Americans took over the Belleau Wood sector. Like the Priest Wood near Pont-à-Mousson, Grurie Wood in Argonne, and the Sabot Wood in Champagne, Belleau Wood has become famous. The broken, rocky ground lends itself naturally to defence, and, by filling it with machine-guns, the Germans had made it well-nigh impregnable.
The attack was begun on June 10, 1918, by the American Marine Brigade—the first of Uncle Sam’s units to land in France (June 27, 1917)—300 prisoners being taken. Operations were successfully continued on the 13th, when a powerful German counter-attack, with orders to drive out the Americans at all cost, was repulsed with heavy enemy loss.
It was from Belleau Wood that, on July 18, 1918, the 26th American Division, which formed the pivot of General Degoutte’s army, set out on the Great Counter-Offensive. Its eagerness was such that it had to be restrained, to allow the wings to reach their assigned positions.
Its first objective was the Torcy-Belleau-Bouresches line (held by first-class German troops: the famous 1st and 4th Guards and 6th Bavarians), which was carried in a single rush. Organizing the conquered ground, it there awaited the signal to advance on Etrepilly, given on July 20 by General Degoutte. (This village, which is situated on the farther side of Hill 190, is not visible from where the tourist stands. The road G. C. 9, leading thither, was crossed on the way to Hill 190.) The attack on Etrepilly, which was to relieve the French (tenaciously opposed to the north of Belleau), was executed with great vigour and ability, according to General Degoutte’s report.
Three guns, one bomb-thrower, numerous machine-guns, and 200 prisoners were taken, while the advance forced the Germans to abandon their positions in front of the French lines.
After much bitter, indecisive fighting, and a further attack on the 26th, which resulted in the capture of 264 prisoners, the final assault was made on the 29th. Two battalions deployed in four lines of sharpshooters, fifty yards apart, closely followed by the storming columns in waves, broke through the German positions after fierce bayonet fighting. The enemy redoubts
AMERICAN OBSERVATION-POST IN BELLEAU WOOD DURING
THE FIGHTING IN JULY, 1918.
were surrounded and reduced after hard hand-to-hand fighting. The Americans, who had left off their coats and rolled up their shirt-sleeves, advanced resolutely in spite of heavy losses.
The capture of this formidable position by the Marine Brigade won the warmest praise from Marshals Foch and Pétain, and the heartfelt thanks of the Mayor of Meaux, which city was thus saved from the enemy. The French High Command decided that the wood should henceforth be called: The Wood of the American Marine Brigade.
AMERICAN SOLDIER IN DUG-OUT IN BELLEAU WOOD.
AMERICAN SOLDIERS IN BELLEAU WOOD.
Return to the car and continue towards the village of Belleau.
On the left side of the road are shelters for sharpshooters and machine-guns.
At the cross-roads, near the entrance to Belleau, a road branching off the G. C. 9, to the right, leads into the village.
At this crossing there is an American cemetery.
On the left, a road which skirts Belleau Wood, leads to Bouresches. About a mile from the crossing, along this road, there is another American cemetery. On the right of the graves, an uphill road leads to the wood, in which traces of the hard fighting are still visible—trenches, shelters, barbed wire entanglements, branchless trees, shell holes, etc.
A little further on, in the direction of Bouresches, is another American cemetery.
After visiting that part of the wood which overlooks Belleau, return to the cross-roads and enter that village.
GERMAN CORPSES IN BELLEAU WOOD (April, 1919).
BELLEAU CHURCH.
Descend as far as the Castle, which was badly damaged. Behind is the Church, also in ruins. In front of the Castle turn to the left, take the first road on the right towards Torcy, skirting the park, the walls and trees of which have been badly damaged. Torcy, entirely in ruins, is reached shortly after.
Continue as far as what was the 13th century church, now a heap of ruins. The cemetery is a picture of desolation, the Germans having blown up the underground vaults, which dated from the Middle-Ages.
RUINS IN BELLEAU VILLAGE.
RUINS OF TORCY CHURCH.
From the cemetery there is a pretty view of the valley. The photograph below was taken from beyond the cemetery, in the old square now in ruins.
Retracing his steps, the tourist should take the uphill road visible on the left of the photograph above, which he crossed before arriving at the church, and return to G. C. 9. At the intersection of these two roads is a large shed, the iron framework of which was torn and twisted by shell fire. Turn to the right and follow G. C. 9 towards Bussiares.
Before coming to Bussiares, the Tuilerie Farm, situated on a tiny hill to the left, comes into view.
At the foot of this hill are German graves. The trenches and shelters on its sides were heavily shelled.
Bussiares was less severely damaged than Torcy.
After crossing the village take the first road on the right towards Hautevesnes. There are some French graves at the side of the road near the fork. Cross the railway (level crossing) and the bridge over the small river Clignon, which run side by side. Before coming to Hautevesnes the road passes through shell-torn woods.
AFTER THE CAPTURE OF TORCY BY THE AMERICANS. THE VILLAGE SQUARE, A HEAP OF RUINS.
AT THE TOP OF A HILLOCK, THE RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT ST. GENGOULPH STAND OUT TRAGICALLY AGAINST THE SKY.
Hautevesnes was entirely destroyed.
Cross the village, keeping a straight line towards the village of St. Gengoulph, whose ruined church is at the top of a small hill on the right (photo above).
Leave St. Gengoulph on the right, without entering it, and a little beyond the hill above-mentioned, turn to the right into the I. C. 34 towards Chevillon.
Chevillon was badly damaged. On leaving the village, the remains of numerous trenches and shelters will be noticed on the left, while, in the surrounding fields, thousands of shells have been collected into heaps.
At the entrance to Chevillon, on the left of the road, there is an American cemetery containing 240 graves of soldiers who fell on July 18, 1918 (photo below).
After visiting Chevillon, return to I. C. 34, which follow, leaving St. Gengoulph on the left.
Shortly afterwards, turn to the left and descend to the badly-damaged village of Vinly (photo, p. 57). Turn to the left towards Veuilly-la-Poterie. Cross the river Clignon and the railway (level-crossing), continuing straight along the village, which visit.
AMERICAN CEMETARY AT CHEVILLON CONTAINING 240 GRAVES.
AMERICAN SOLDIERS IN THE RUINS OF VINLY VILLAGE.
The view below was taken a few hundred yards from the level crossing.
Return to the railway, then turn to the right into G. C. 9, which runs alongside the railway, on the right.
Veuilly-la-Poterie was taken by the Germans, but on debouching from it they were checked by the Americans, who prevented further progress.
Passing through Eloup and Bussiares, the tourist arrives shortly afterwards at the ruined shed previously seen opposite Torcy (p. 55).
PICTURESQUE VILLAGE OF VEUILLY-LA-POTERIE.
RUINED CHURCH OF LUCY-LE-BOCAGE.
This region was bitterly disputed. On June 6, a Franco-American attack against the Veuilly-Bussiares line gave 270 prisoners, and the Americans advanced a mile towards Torcy. Veuilly-la-Poterie was retaken on the 7th and Eloup on the 8th, the Americans beating off all counter-attacks. On the 9th the Bois d’Eloup and another wood to the south of Bussiares were captured by the Allies. On the 10th, during several unsuccessful German attacks east of Vinly-on-the-Clignon (to the north of Veuilly-la-Poterie), the Franco-Americans advanced towards Bussiares, capturing 250 prisoners. On the 12th they took the southern part of Bussiares. On July 18, at the time of the great Franco-American Counter-Offensive, the whole of this region was liberated with fine dash by the 1st American Corps.
At the crossing near Torcy leave G. C. 9 and take the I. C. 32 to the right. Near this fork, on the right, are American graves. The road skirts the western side of Belleau Wood. More American graves are seen before coming to Lucy-le-Bocage.
INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LUCY-LE-BOCAGE.
AMERICAN CEMETARY NEAR BOURESCHES.
In the background: the highest part of Belleau Wood.
Pass through the village, leave the church on the left, and take on the left the road leading to Bouresches. About 200 yards from the village there are more American graves.
On the left of the road the southern edge of Belleau Wood is visible.
Shortly before arriving at Bouresches are more American graves on the left (photo above).
From here the tourist may cross the fields to the wood where there is a path leading to Hill 181, its highest point. Numerous trenches, shelters, etc., will be found there. In April, 1919, corpses were still lying on the ground (photo, p. 53).
Enter Bouresches. Turn to the right in front of the Church, towards Vaux.
BOURESCHES CHURCH.
The road in front of the church leads: on the left, to Belleau, on the right, to Vaux.
RUINS IN VAUX VILLAGE.
On the right, American graves. Enter Vaux. Cross the National Road (N. 3) and continue straight along the valley. The ruins here are particularly impressive (photo above).
Going towards Essommes, the tourist comes to Monneaux, whose cemetery is on the left, at the entrance to the village. The wall nearest Vaux is pierced with loop-holes for machine-guns. Along the left-hand side of the road, American graves. Cross the village, which was much less damaged than Vaux, pass through Montcourt, and after leaving the village cross the river. Continue straight along, pass through a hamlet, after which Essommes is reached. This tiny village is one of the oldest in the region. Its fine church was built in the 13th and 14th centuries. The choir and transept are especially noteworthy.
THE NAVE AND CHOIR OF ESSOMMES CHURCH, WHOSE VAULTING HAS FALLEN IN.
THE CHOIR AND TRANSEPT SEEN FROM ONE OF THE AISLES.
STAINED-GLASS WINDOW IN ESSOMMES CHURCH.
Inside are admirable 16th century carved stalls and woodwork. The keystones of the vaulting, a 16th century font, a monk’s tomb with the carved figure of a crosiered abbot, and the fine stained-glass windows are likewise remarkable. According to tradition, Queen Blanche de Navarre, who was a generous patron of the region of Château-Thierry, was buried in the Church.
KITCHEN AT NO. 4 AVENUE DU MARÉCHAL FOCH,
AS THE GERMANS LEFT IT.
The village was damaged by bombardment.
Pass in front of the Church, leaving it to the left, then turn to the left into N. 3, which leads back to Château-Thierry, via the Avenue du Maréchal Foch.
The photographs on this page, showing the effects of German plundering, were taken at No. 4 of this avenue.
From Vaux, the road winds round Hill 204, which was so bitterly disputed. In July, 1918, the Americans set out for the attack from the various villages seen on the way, and after a week of severe fighting, succeeded in driving out the Germans.
DINING-ROOM AT NO. 4 AVENUE DU MARÉCHAL FOCH,
AS THE GERMANS LEFT IT.
ITINERARY OF THE SECOND DAY—70 MILES.
2nd day.—CHÂTEAU-THIERRY—SOISSONS.
The following itinerary will enable the tourist to follow, step by step, the course of the battle for the straightening out of the Château-Thierry salient. It will also enable him to form a correct idea of the German offensive of May 27, with its alternations of advance and retreat around Soissons, the northern pivot of the battle.
Leave by the Avenue du Maréchal Joffre, take the second street on the right (Rue Gare-des-Chesneaux), whence there is a fine view of the town and castle. Do not cross the railway by the level crossing on the right of the station, but continue straight ahead, leaving on the right the street which leads to the entrance of the Castle (photo below). Pass the “Octroi,” turn to the left about 100 yards further on, under the ruined bridge. The hospital on the left was badly damaged by shell-fire, as were also the neighbouring embankment and houses.
ENTRANCE TO THE OLD CASTLE OF CHÂTEAU-THIERRY.
The itinerary follows the road on the left.
Follow the G. C. 15, to the left of which, hollowed out in the sloping sides, are many ammunition shelters. Pass under another damaged railway bridge. Near the bridge over the small river which flows in front of the village of Verdilly are numerous shell-holes and large heaps of ammunition and rubbish.
Pass through Verdilly, which was not severely damaged.
The Castle and park on the left received numerous shells. In Barbillon Wood, on the right, huge quantities of abandoned shells were collected.
Further on, opposite the Breteuil Farm, were other ammunition dumps. In the wood which borders the road, a little further on, are gun limbers and artillery shelters.
Before coming to Epieds there is an American cemetery on the left of the road.
Epieds.—This village was retaken by the Americans during their advance in the middle of July, 1918. On July 22 a company of the 26th American Division entered the village, after fierce hand-to-hand fighting, but was unable to hold it, as the Germans counter-attacked in force on the 23rd and 24th. After two days’ fighting, the Americans finally captured the village and Trugny Wood to the south-east, with many prisoners. During this fighting, Epieds was taken and lost five times by the Americans.
AMERICAN CEMETERY AT EPIEDS.
In the background: the Village.
In Epieds, turn to the right, and on leaving the village, take I. C. 30 on the left, which follows the left-hand side of the rive. On the other side of the river, on the hill-side, to the right, is Moucheton Castle (photo below). A road, lined with poplar-trees, leads there.
The Castle, which was used as headquarters, first by the Germans and afterwards by the Americans, dates from the 18th century. It has been carefully restored in recent times.
In the wood, to the right of the road, were ammunition shelters.
The tourist soon arrives at Brécy, where a German fifteen-inch “Bertha” gun was installed. To visit the "Bertha” platform (photo p. 66), turn to the left at the cross-roads before entering Brécy, pass under the railway-bridge, turn to the left 100 yards further on, and follow the railway towards Châtelet Wood. Rather less than a mile from the cross-roads, the wood comes down to the road; skirt it for about 300 yards, until the railway siding which branches off the main line, and along which the gun was brought to its platform, is reached.
MOUCHETON CASTLE, USED AS G.H.Q. BY THE AMERICANS.
15-IN. BERTHA PLATFORM IN CHÂTELET WOOD.
The road is at the back behind the trees.
Follow this siding into the wood for about 60 yards, where the platform, which the Germans tried to blow up before retreating, will be found. The enemy succeeded in saving the gun.
Trees placed in holes along the siding hid the position from the Allied aviators. Turn the car round in the alley, about 20 yards after the siding, and return to the cross-roads, driving slowly, as the road is narrow and in poor condition.
(N.B.—Tourists visiting the “Bertha” platform by special excursion from Château-Thierry, can return by the road which follows the railway, instead of retracing their steps, as above. Cross the railway, pass through Bézu-St.-Germain, cross the railway again, turning shortly afterwards to the left along N. 37, which leads direct to Château-Thierry.)
FRENCH AND AMERICAN SOLDIERS ON THE “BERTHA” PLATFORM IN JULY, 1918.
THE ORDRIMOUILLE STREAM AT COINCY.
In the background: the Church.
Continue to follow the railway, turn to the right and pass under the railway at the next bridge. Near the bend on the left are French graves.
Pass under the bridge, turn to the left into the picturesque village of Coincy; cross the river and continue as far as the Church.
THE GERMANS PILLAGED THE CHURCH AT BRÉNY.
GERMAN BARRICADE AT THE ENTRANCE TO OULCHY-LE-CHÂTEAU.
In the background: the Hôtel-le-Ville and Church.
Return to the entrance of the village, take on the right the road which passes under the railway, and follow G. C. 3.
In the wood on the left were numerous ammunition dumps. Rocourt is reached shortly afterwards. Take a look at the church, then turn to the right into N. 37.
All along the road are small dug-outs. The Germans, in their retreat, left behind huge quantities of shells and empty cartridge-cases.
Rather less than two miles from Rocourt, in a small wood which borders the road on the left, the Germans had installed batteries of three-inch and four-inch guns. The wood contains ammunition shelters and an underground chamber full of shells. In the sloping land, at the side of the road, small dug-outs can still be seen. A little further on, near a ruined house, are heaps of burnt cable-drums, gun limbers, motors, etc.
Brény-on-the-Ourcq is soon reached.
THE CHURCH AND SEMINARY AT OULCHY-LE-CHÂTEAU.
OULCHY-LE-CHÂTEAU SEEN FROM THE TERRACE.
Cross the railway (level crossing) in the village. Shortly after leaving Brény, in the hill-side on the left, are shelters which were used by the Germans. Near by are graves.
A little further on are more shelters on the left, while close by are the graves of the soldiers belonging to the 23rd French Infantry Regiment, who fell on July 24.
Oulchy-le-Château is next reached.
The village lies in the narrow valley of the Rû-de-Chauday, between two hills, on one of which is the church, on the other, the castle known as “La Grande Maison.”
In front of the “Mairie,” turn to the left, leaving the car a few hundred yards further on. Taking the narrow street on the left of the “Mairie,” and then a series of flights of steps, the tourist, keeping to the left, arrives at the Church, situated on a terrace close to the ruined Seminary.
RUINED CHURCH OF OULCHY-LA-VILLE.
The Church was built inside the walls of the old feudal castle, which gave its name to the village, and of which only the massive walls remain. It is a large Roman edifice dating from the 12th century. Although successive restorations have somewhat spoilt its lines, it is none the less a remarkable building. The stalls are 14th century and the pulpit 17th.
GERMAN HOWITZER GUN IN THE DISTILLERY RUINS AT OULCHY-LA-VILLE.
After visiting the church and seminary, cross the terrace and return to the lower part of the village by the footpath, which passes under the little bridge at the edge of the terrace. At the bottom of the path, the tourist will take his car again. A little further on, turn to the left into G. C. 22, leading up to Oulchy-la-Ville. This village was much more damaged than Oulchy-le-Château.
At the fork, near the entrance to Oulchy-la-Ville, turn to the right in the direction of the Church. The roof and tower of this 13th-14th century edifice were destroyed by bombardment (photo, p. 69).
Immediately after the church, turn to the left, then to the right, in the direction of the distillery in ruins. In the yard of this building there is a German howitzer-gun (photo above).
Just outside the village, shells, machine-gun cartridge belts, and débris of all kinds, heaped pell-mell at the side of the road, remind one of the fierceness of the struggle in this vicinity.
CHOUY CHURCH.
THE MAIN STREET IN CHOUY.
The ruined Church stands at the back.
Follow the G. C. 22, which dips down towards the Ourcq.
Pass through Rozet-St.-Albin, before and after which, on the right of the road, are numerous “boves” or worked-out quarries transformed into dwellings. Situated in the hill-sides, these “boves” formed admirable shelters for the troops.
On reaching the Ourcq (which do not cross), continue straight along G. C. 23, in the direction of the village of Chouy, which was practically razed to the ground.
At the Church, turn to the right.
On leaving Chouy, continue along G. C. 23 towards Ancienville, which is off the road, on the left. Take the road on the left that winds round a small hill, on which is the church (photo below).
CHURCH AND CEMETERY AT ANCIENVILLE.
MAUCREUX CASTLE AFTER THE GERMAN BOMBARDMENTS.
Return to G. C. 23, and turn to the left. The woods about here were badly damaged. After crossing the Saviéres, the Castle of Maucreux, built on an eminence, becomes visible on the left. It was struck by a number of shells.
On the right of the road are stone quarries and dug-outs.
Beyond the Castle and on leaving the woods, turn to the left at the fork. Numerous dug-outs are in the sloping sides of the road. After the Cemetery of Faverolles, the walls of which are in ruins, the tourist enters the village of that name.
Leaving the church behind, on the left, turn to the right. Vouty is reached shortly afterwards, after skirting the wall of an old farm.
FAVEROLLES CHURCH.
INTERIOR OF FAVEROLLES CHURCH.
On the other side of the road are French graves. Turn to the right into the road seen in the photograph below.
Skirt the farm, follow G. C. 17, and turn to the left at the first fork. At the next fork, a little further on, keep straight on. Numerous shell-holes and trenches.
From Vouty, there is a fine run down to the village of Corcy, of which nothing is left but a heap of ruins. At the bottom of the hill, the Castle and Park are pictures of desolation.
The village and church are a little further on, to the left.
VOUTY FARM.
THE VILLAGE AND MARSHES OF CORCY, SEEN FROM G. C. 17 BEFORE ARRIVING AT THE CASTLE.
FRENCH GRAVES IN CORCY CASTLE PARK.
Behind is the village.
THE REMAINS OF CORCY CASTLE.
At the back are seen the marshes and the village.
In front of the Castle, turn to the left and, after the marshes, to the right, without crossing the railway by the level-crossing, seen in the foreground of the photograph on the next page. (The road to be followed is the one, the beginning of which is seen on the left of this photograph.)
Continue along G. C. 17, which follows the railway on the right, cross the latter by the level-crossing, after which the tourist comes to the completely devastated Villers-Cotterets Wood.
Numerous deep dug-outs were made in the slopes on the left. A few hundred yards after the level-crossing there is an enormous shell crater, caused by the explosion of an ammunition shelter. On the right of the road flows the Saviéres, on whose banks fierce fighting took place in June-July, 1918.
CORCY CHURCH.
CORCY.
In the background: Ruins of the Church. The road to Villers-Cotterets is the one going to the left on the photograph.
On arriving at Longpont, the Abbey comes into sight; in front of the latter, turn to the left, then into the first street on the right, which leads to the Square. On the left is the Abbey; on the right, the fortified gate.
THE OLD FORTIFIED GATE OF LONGPONT ABBEY.
In the background: Villers-Cotterets Wood and the road leading to Villers-Cotterets village.
The Abbey, which belonged to the Cistercian Order, was founded by Raoul IV., Count of Crespy, for which pious act he was absolved from excommunication. It quickly became a flourishing institution, the number of monks at the end of the 12th century being two hundred. In the 14th century, during the Hundred Years’ War, this number had fallen to thirty, while on the eve of the Revolution there remained only fifteen.
LONGPONT ABBEY, SEEN FROM THE GRANDE PLACE.
The Abbey contains the ruins of a magnificent Gothic Church, the foundations of which were laid in 1131, under the Count of Crespy, but which was only finished in 1226. It was consecrated in 1227, in the presence of King St. Louis and his mother. The fine gabled façade and the walls of the nave, with their massive abutments and graceful flying buttresses, are still standing, as is also the transept. The porches are intact. Of the apsis and chapels, only the walls and columns remain.
A 13th century fortified gate, surmounted by four turrets with pointed tops, is all that remains of the walls that formerly protected the Abbey from the bands of marauders which roamed through the country.
LONGPONT ABBEY CHURCH, SEEN FROM THE STREET
LEADING TO THE FORTIFIED GATE.
FRONT OF LONGPONT ABBEY, OVERLOOKING THE PARK.
On the left is the Church.
INTERIOR OF LONGPONT ABBEY CHURCH.
MAP OF THE OPERATIONS FROM OULCHY-LE-CHÂTEAU TO LONGPONT.
The roads indicated by the two continuous lines are those to be followed by the tourist.
The entire region just passed through (from Oulchy to Longpont), was occupied and ravaged by the Germans after May 30, 1918, and reconquered by General Mangin’s army from July 18 onwards.
On May 30, a German army under General Winkler (1st Guards, 33rd Infantry and 10th Reserves) attacked the two villages of Oulchy from the east, but were stubbornly opposed. Advancing beyond them on the 31st, the Germans (28th Reserves) took Longpont, while Corcy was captured by the 1st Guards. After fierce fighting, Chouy, Ancienville, and Faverolles also fell. Two days later, after furious combats, the French recaptured Longpont and Corcy, but Faverolles, after changing hands several times, was kept by the Germans. On June 3, the enemy made a violent attack on Villers-Cotterets Wood, the fighting around Longpont and Faverolles being of the fiercest. However, they failed to gain a footing in the Wood, and the French re-took Faverolles. For more than a month the battle continued to rage without appreciably modifying the situation. From July 11 the Allies became increasingly active, retaking Corcy and Longpont, and crossing the Savières on the 13th, south of that village. On the 18th, the tanks and Franco-American troops (1st and 2nd American Divisions) under General Mangin debouched from the forest in the Great Counter-Offensive. The valley of the Savières was cleared of the enemy, and on the 19th, progress made beyond Chouy. On the 20th and 21st, the outskirts of Oulchy-la-Ville and Oulchy-le-Château were reached. Here the enemy offered a vigorous resistance, and the battle continued to rage until the beginning of August. German prisoners belonging to the 51st Reserves and 6th Guards (Ersatz) declared that their orders on July 30 were to fight to the last man. On August 1 the Germans attacked Oulchy unsuccessfully early in the morning. Finally, the entire region was cleared of the enemy, the Americans taking part in the recapture of Chouy and the two villages of Oulchy.
BROTHERS-IN-ARMS. FRENCH AND AMERICAN SOLDIERS HELPING A WOUNDED FRENCHMAN NEAR LONGPONT.
After visiting Longpont and the Abbey continue along the street by which the square was reached; cross the bridge in the direction of Chaudun, keeping to the G. C. 17. Below the road are the ruins of La Grange Farm. The table-land near the top of the hill, on the right, served as an aviation park during the War. In May, 1919, the remains of twenty burnt aeroplanes were still to be seen there.
At the fork take the right-hand road (I. C. 30). Here the road was crossed by wire entanglements and trenches. Fierce fighting took place over the whole of this tableland. On the left is Beaurepaire Farm, which was little damaged.
GERMAN 77MM. GUN ABANDONED NEAR CHAUDUN, WITH HEAP OF WICKER BASKETS, EACH CONTAINING THREE SHELLS.
BARBED WIRE ENTANGLEMENT IN FRONT OF CHAUDUN DURING THE BATTLE OF JULY.
In the foreground: German corpse.
At the crossing where Beaurepaire Farm stands, a road branches off on the right towards Vierzy, situated rather less than two miles away at the bottom of a small valley. The Americans (2nd Division) had some fierce fighting at Beaurepaire Farm and Vierzy. If not pressed for time, the tourist should visit Vierzy, returning thence to Beaurepaire Farm and continuing to Chaudun (I. C. 30).
On the right of the road is Maisonneuve Farm in ruins (photo below).
On arriving at Chaudun, which was badly damaged, turn to the left in the village. On the right of the street leading to the small square is the entrance to the cemetery, from where there is a good view of the ruined church.
AMERICAN SOLDIERS AT MAISONNEUVE FARM.
RUINS OF CHAUDUN CHURCH, SEEN FROM THE CEMETERY.
After visiting the church, return to the above mentioned.
Turn to the right, and on leaving the village, to the left, in the direction of Cravançon Farm, which was completely destroyed. All around, the trees have been stripped of their branches or torn down by shell fire. Several lines of barbed wire entanglements enclose the farm. A little further on is a crossing with N. 2, known as the “Croix-de-Fer” (“Iron Cross”). The fighting around here was extremely bitter. At the time of General Mangin’s great offensive, hundreds of tanks attacked the table-land.
THE CROSS-ROADS AT CROIX-DE-FER, AT THE INTERSECTION OF THE N. 2 (PARIS-SOISSONS) AND THE CHAUDUN-DOMMIERS ROAD.
In the background: Cravançon Farm in ruins.
TANK DAMAGED BY ENEMY SHELL-FIRE NEAR THE CROSS-ROADS AT CROIX-DE-FER.
On the right is the N. 2 leading to Soissons.
Turn to the right into N. 2. In May, 1919, three wrecked tanks were still to be seen there.
A little further on (rather more than half a mile from the fork) there is a large American cemetery (photo below). The Americans who fell in the vicinity during the fighting in July were buried there. Return to the “Croix-de-Fer” and take the road on the right towards Dommiers, which crosses the table-land attacked by the tanks.
AMERICAN CEMETERY ALONGSIDE THE N. 2, ABOUT HALF A MILE FROM THE CROIX-DE-FER CROSS-ROADS TOWARDS SOISSONS.
It was from this immense plateau that the Americans set out to attack the German lines on June 18, 1918, with General Mangin’s Army.
DAMAGED TANK NEAR DOMMIERS, SEEN FROM THE BRITISH CEMETERY NEAR DOMMIERS.
Dommiers Road in the background where the motor-car is standing.
About half a mile before reaching Dommiers the tourist comes to the British Cemetery, from which the above photograph was taken in April, 1919. The tanks seen in the picture have since been removed.
At the entrance to Dommiers (in ruins) is an enormous heap of shells, shell-cases, rifles, etc. (photo below). Pass through the village, leaving the church on the left. Built in the 12th and 13th centuries, the steeple and roof of the church have fallen in. The choir contained some fine woodwork, which originally came from the Church of St. Jean-des-Vignes at Soissons. Most of it was destroyed by shell-fire, three panels only remaining uninjured.
EMPTY SHELL CASES OF ALL CALIBRES COLLECTED ON THE BATTLEFIELD NEAR DOMMIERS.
In the background is seen the village of Dommiers.
TANKS CROSSING
DOMMIERS VILLAGE.
AMERICAN SOLDIER’S
MASCOT (YOUNG WILD BOAR)
IN A FARMYARD AT DOMMIERS.
DOMMIERS CHURCH
IN RUINS.
ST. PIERRE-AIGLE VILLAGE, SEEN FROM THE ROAD COMING FROM DOMMIERS.
THE VALLEY OF THE RU-DE-RETZ SEEN FROM THE RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF ST. PIERRE-AIGLE.
The deep ravine in which this small stream flows was the objective of numerous fierce combats. In the background: Villers-Cotterets Wood in which the Germans tried in vain to get a footing.
VERTES-FEUILLES FARM, SEEN FROM THE N. 2 DURING THE JULY COMBATS.
Continue towards St. Pierre-Aigle, which is marvellously situated. The photographs on the preceding page show in what state the bombardments left it. Turn to the left, to visit the church at the edge of the ravine (pretty view over the forest of Retz). Return to the road and descend into the valley.
At the bottom of the hill, if not pressed for time, visit Vertes-Feuilles Farm, situated about two miles further on. In this case, take on the left the road leading up the valley. The road first passes through ravaged woods, finally reaching the plateau crossed by N. 2. The farm, now a mere heap of ruins, stood at this crossing. Behind the farm are barbed wire entanglements and trenches.
VERTES-FEUILLES FARM DEFENSIVELY ORGANIZED.
The fighting here was of the fiercest. In front: French graves.
GERMAN PRISONERS PASSING THROUGH COEUVRES IN JULY, 1918, ESCORTED BY AN AMERICAN CAVALRYMAN.
Return to St. Pierre-Aigle and continue straight ahead towards Cœuvres. The ruined farm and Castle of Valsery on the far side of the river are visible from here. In Cœuvres, turn to the left and cross the bridge to visit the church, the steeple and western portion of which have fallen in.
Return to the bridge and turn to the left towards Cutry (do not cross the river).
Two lines of barbed wire entanglements crossed the road at the exit of the village. At the fork, turn to the right into I. C. 44 and cross the river. More barbed wire entanglements here defended Cœuvres. Climb the zig-zag road as far as the church of Cutry, remarkable edifice whose nave and apsis were destroyed. Very fine view.
In the Cemetery of Cutry are graves of French soldiers who fell in July, 1918.
RUINS OF CUTRY CHURCH.
From this church, built at the top of the hill, there is a fine view of the Rû-de-Retz Ravine, which was so hotly disputed.
AMERICAN CONVOY RESTING IN LAVERSINE VILLAGE.
Return by the same road to the fork.
(N.B.—A more direct road to the church is the steep, narrow lane which branches off the route at the foot of the hill. If desired, motorists may take this lane going, and return by the main road, or vice versa.)
From Cutry, continue straight ahead to Laversine. Pass through this village by G. C. 17 in the direction of Courtançon. Before reaching the latter enormous heaps of ammunition and débris will be seen. The trees along the river are shell-torn.
After Courtançon, St. Bandry comes into view on the left. In the village turn to the left as far as the ruined church. In the cemetery are graves of French soldiers who fell on July 18. At the side of the church, beneath the ruins of the blacksmith’s house, are ancient, deep-vaulted cellars. There are numerous similar cellars in the village, which served as shelters for the troops.
RUINED CHURCH OF ST. BANDRY.
There are mediaeval cellars underneath the blacksmith’s house seen behind the church.
CHURCH AND FORTIFIED CASTLE DONJON OF AMBLÉNY.
Return to G. C. 17 and turn to the left towards Amblény.
Rather more than quarter of a mile after entering this village, turn to the left, then to the right towards the Fortified Castle. Turn to the right and descend alongside the Donjon and Church. Continue straight along, then turn to the right and cross the river. At the fork beyond the river, turn to the left and skirt the cemetery.
THE NAVE OF AMBLÉNY CHURCH.
The Castle Donjon is seen in the background.
THE NAVE OF AMBLÉNY CHURCH.
The Castle Donjon is seen in the background.
APSIS OF AMBLÉNY CHURCH (1919).
(Compare with photo below taken in 1917.)
At the next fork go straight ahead. The valley here was badly ravaged. Numerous wire entanglements, trenches, heaps of ammunition, débris, etc., are seen.
Keep straight on as far as N. 31, into which turn to the right. All along are wire entanglements, trenches, heaps of ammunition, shelters, and various organizations. Cross the railway (level-crossing) and take the first road on the right towards Pernant.
APSIS OF AMBLÉNY CHURCH IN 1917.
(See above photo.)
PERNANT CHURCH.
In front, on the right: Baskets of German shells; behind same: Wall pierced with loop-holes. In one of the outside walls of the church, a shell uncovered a stone Virgin previously walled in.
INTERIOR OF PERNANT CHURCH.
THE OLD CASTLE AT PERNANT, SEEN FROM THE ENTRANCE SIDE.
Cross the railway again (level-crossing), then turn to the right towards the Church.
Go straight up the hill, take the first road on the right leading up a steep hill to the very interesting Castle, which dates from the Middle-Ages. Built on rock foundations it contains a deep cavern. The roof and eastern portion were damaged by the bombardment. Fine view from the terrace.
Continue to climb the hill as far as the plateau; very fine view.
Descend to Pernant. Caves are visible in the hill-sides. At the church turn to the right, then to the left. Recross the level-crossing last mentioned, then turn to the right into N. 31.
Along the road numerous military organizations are met with.
(If not pressed for time, instead of going straight on to Soissons by N. 31, take the road on the right, about 1-1/2 miles after Pernant, leading to Mercin,
PERNANT CASTLE.
In the ravine which it overlooks furious fighting took place.
SHELTERS ALONG THE N. 31 BETWEEN PERNANT AND SOISSONS.
Behind is the Aisne Valley.
cross the railway (level-crossing), then turn to the left towards the Church. The ancient turreted Castle, which now serves as Town-Hall and School, is above the church, on the right.)
Retracing his steps for a short distance, the tourist should take I. C. 44 on the left, which leads up to the plateau. Fierce fighting took place here, as attest the wire entanglements, trenches, etc. On reaching N. 2, turn into it on the left. The run down from here to Soissons is very fine. Enter Soissons by the Rue du Faubourg St. Christophe.
MERCIN CHURCH IN RUINS.
MAP OF THE OPERATIONS FROM CHAUDUN TO SOISSONS.
The roads indicated by two continuous lines are to be followed by the tourist.
Throughout the region which the tourist has just visited (Chaudun to Soissons), the battle raged without respite from May 29 to July 18, 1918. While, on May 29 and 30, the French were hanging on to the western outskirts of Soissons, outflanked by the armies of Von François and Von Larisch, the German 6th Active and 6th Reserves captured Vierzy and Chaudun on the 30th. On June 1, French counter-attacks forced the enemy to retire. After changing hands several times and much furious fighting, Chaudun and Vierzy remained in the hands of the French. On the 3rd, the enemy engaged all available reserves (three fresh divisions) in a powerful attack between the Aisne and the Ourcq. Progressing beyond Missy-aux-Bois and La Croix-de-Fer they reached the line extending northwards from Dommiers to west of Pernant. On June 12 and 13, they again attacked in the direction of the Villers-Cotterets Wood reaching the Laversine—Cœuvres—St. Pierre-Aigle line. Stiff fighting continued along this line until the end of June, the French retaking Cœuvres on the 15th, Laversine on the 28th, and St. Pierre-Aigle on July 2.
On July 18, the Franco-American forces (1st and 2nd American Divisions), under General Mangin, began their counter-offensive, which liberated the entire region as far as east of Pernant, including Missy-aux-Bois, Chaudun, and Vierzy. The latter village, which had been lost in the evening, was promptly re-taken by the Americans (2nd Division) after furious combats.
From the 19th to the 21st the enemy offered desperate resistance to the south-west of Soissons. Engaging three fresh divisions, and after numerous counter-attacks, they succeeded in advancing to the east of Chaudun. Their success was short-lived, however, as on the 21st, General Mangin’s army broke down their resistance and reached the road from Soissons to Oulchy (N. 37).
3rd day.—SOISSONS—PARIS.
Via Laffaux, Fismes and Château-Thierry.
(To visit Soissons, see the Michelin Illustrated Guide: “Soissons before and during the War.”)
The itineraries of the first two days will have taken the tourist to the extreme points reached by the German advance, and where the victorious Franco-American counter-offensive of July 18 developed along the western side of the Château-Thierry salient.
The itinerary for the third day will first lead the tourist to the Chemin-des-Dames, where the German attack of May 27, 1918, which made the salient, began. The return journey passes through those parts of the battlefield to the north-east of Château-Thierry which marked the pursuit of the Germans by the Americans.
COMMUNICATING TRENCH IN ONE OF THE STREETS OF CROUY IN 1916.
At the back stands the Church.
(Compare with photo on next page taken in 1919.)
On leaving Soissons, cross the bridge over the Aisne, then take the Avenue de Laon and N. 2. After St. Paul, pass under the railway, then over the level-crossing before coming to Crouy, which suffered severely from the bombardment. The church is on the left, near the small river.
On leaving the village, the road rises towards Crouy Plateau, passing between numerous military organizations and shelters in the hill-sides.
REMAINS OF CROUY CHURCH. (See photo (1916) on previous page.)
From the top of the hill the devastated Perrière Farm is visible on the left. There is a French cemetery opposite, on the right of the road.
A trench, since filled in, ran the whole length of the road.
Cross the ruins of Pont Rouge Works. Numerous barbed wire entanglements stretch across the road. About 100 yards before “milestone” 79, and rather more than half-a-mile before Laffaux Mill, near a number of French graves, take the road on the left, which leads to the ruins of the village of Laffaux. The bombardment here was terrible, as the countless shell craters attest. Of the houses, only heaps of stones and débris remain. The ruins of the church are seen in profile above the ravine.
RUINS OF PERRIÈRE FARM.
(On the left of N. 2, beyond Jouy, going towards Laon.)
The numerous quarries below the village were utilized as defences. A road which passes below the church leads there. The tourist should return to the main road, either by retracing his steps, or by continuing straight ahead, turning to the right and coming out, rather less than a mile further on, at the crossing where stood Laffaux Mill. The latter road is very rough. In May, 1919, corpses were still to be seen in some of the shell holes. Laffaux Mill stood on the right of the crossing in the National Highway, at the junction of the rough roads leading to Laffaux and Pinon.
LAFFAUX CHURCH!
Below in the hillside are the organized caverns seen in the photo below.
Continue along the National Road slightly beyond “Guardian Angel Farm.”
On the right will be seen the beginning of the Chemin-des-Dames (see p. 101). Return to the farm, then turn to the left into G. C. 14 towards Jouy.
CAVERNS WHICH SHELTERED THE TROOPS DEFENDING LAFFAUX PLATEAU.
THIS WAS FORMERLY LAFFAUX MILL.
“POILUS” IN THE RUINS OF “GUARDIAN ANGEL” FARM.
THE SOISSONS-LAON ROAD (N. 2) NEAR GUARDIAN ANGEL FARM.
THE CHEMIN-DES-DAMES (100 YARDS TO THE RIGHT OF N. 2).
In the foreground: Remains of a corpse (1919).
SHELTER ON THE JOUY ROAD.
Overhead, traces of the camouflaging are still visible.
PANORAMA OF THE CHEMIN-DES-DAMES SEEN FROM THE JOUY ROAD.
The “Chemin” follows the crest of the high ground on the horizon.
Cross the plateau, then begin the descent into the valley of the Aisne. Very fine panorama of the Chemin-des-Dames. The view above was taken rather more than a mile from Aizy, before coming to Jouy. The graves in the foreground of the photograph have since been carried away by a landslide into the ravine. The photograph on p. 101 shows some of the numerous shelters which were made along this road.
VAILLY CHURCH.
Leave the village of Aizy on the left. The road continues to descend into the valley of the Aisne. On reaching Vailly, take the first street to the left towards the church, and in front of the latter, turn to the right. One hundred yards further on, turn to the left towards Chavonne, then take the first road to the right (G. C. 10) and follow the river.
REVILLON CHURCH.
GLENNES CHURCH.
There are trenches all along the right of the road. Pass through Chavonne, whose destroyed bridge has not yet been rebuilt. On the left, numerous military organizations. Traces of the “camouflaging” used hereabout to hide the road are still visible. Follow the railings of the Soupir Park, along which trenches were made. These railings were also camouflaged. Cross the Aisne-and-Oise Canal, and pass through Bourg and Comin.
The quarries on the high ground to the left, before reaching Œuilly, were organized militarily. After the church, turn to the right towards the temporary bridge. Cross the river, then the canal. After the distillery, turn to the left, then take the first road on the right to Révillon.
INTERIOR OF GLENNES CHURCH.
DISTRIBUTING RATIONS TO AMERICAN SOLDIERS ON THE ROAD TO FISMETTES.
Go straight on to Glennes. These two villages were captured by the Americans on September 6.
After visiting Glennes, return to Révillon. Leaving the village behind, cross the stream, and before reaching the Castle, turn to the left (G. C. 21), then 300 yards further on, to the left again. Go straight ahead, cross the stream, then turn to the right at the fork reached soon afterwards.
Pass through Merval, whose factory was entirely destroyed. The road, which was here camouflaged, descends towards the Valley of the Vesle. Pretty view. Enter Fismettes, then cross the Vesle by the temporary bridge.
RUINS OF FISMES SEEN FROM THE TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE VESLE WHICH CONNECTS THAT VILLAGE UP WITH FISMETTES.
To the left of this bridge are the ruins of the old stone bridge.
TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE VESLE, “CAMOUFLAGED” DURING THE OPERATIONS.
Pass over the level-crossing, then climb straight up to the town of Fismes, crossing on the left the avenues, whose trees have been cut to pieces by the shells. At one corner of the Square, where the tourist comes out, is the Town Hall in ruins.
To get a good view of the ruins of the Hôtel-Dieu Hospital, take the Rue de l’Hospice, on the right of the Square, which leads straight there. This hospital was founded at the beginning of the 15th century. Only the façade remains, the remainder of the buildings having been destroyed by the bombardments.
Take on the left, the street which passes in front of the Hôtel-de-Ville, and which crosses, on the left, the Avenue in which the church stands. Built in the 11th, 13th, and 16th centuries, this church is remarkable for its Roman apsis. Inside are two statues of St. Macre, one Middle-Age, the other 17th or 18th century.
The Cemetery, on one side of which several hundred Americans were buried, is on the right of the road to Rheims, beyond the Avenue. To go there, take the last street on the right (Rue du Point du Jour).
HÔTEL-DE-VILLE SQUARE IN AUGUST, 1918.
TOWN HALL OF FISMES.
APSIS AND TOWER OF FISMES CHURCH SEEN FROM THE RAMPARTS IN 1914.
FRONT AND TOWER OF ABOVE CHURCH IN 1918, AS SEEN FROM THE PLACE DE L’EGLISE.
THE OLD RAMPARTS OF FISMES SEEN FROM BELOW THE PLACE DE L’EGLISE.
FISMES.
Origin and Chief Historical Events.
Fismes is one of the oldest towns in France. Cæsar refers to it in his Commentaries on the War of the Gauls. St. Macre suffered martyrdom there. In 1226 the town became a Commune. Sacked in 1814 by the Prussians, its Communal Seal—well-known to archæologists—disappeared. To-day it is in one of the museums of Berlin. The town was fortified at an early date. Of the old ramparts, transformed later into avenues, four gates still exist. It was customary for the Kings of France to stay over-night at Fismes, when on their way to Rheims to be crowned. In 1814, on the eve of invasion, Napoleon I. called the nation to arms at Fismes.
Fismes in 1914.
The Germans occupied the town on September 2, 1914, as the last French columns were withdrawing along the road to Epernay. The Mayor and several town councillors were taken as hostages. Meanwhile, the Kommandant Von Kron ordered eight beds to be prepared in one of the rooms of the Hôtel-de-Ville, and dinner for ten officers; 400 bottles of wine, four oxen and 400 bundles of straw were requisitioned for three o’clock next morning.
During the night, the soldiers pillaged the shops and wine cellars. The next day, the Germans requisitioned one ton of lard or bacon, one ton of coffee and tobacco, 35 tons of bread, and 40 tons of oats. To meet these requirements, the town was forced to apply to the neighbouring communes. The German authorities took measures to protect the houses which were inhabited, but allowed the others to be plundered. The Municipality was ordered to repair the bridge of Fismettes, which had been destroyed by the French engineers, under a penalty of a million francs if the work were not finished in two days. Early in the morning of September 11, the German authorities left the town, which the French were approaching. At about seven o’clock in the evening, the 45th French line regiment entered the town. On the 12th, after an artillery duel which did great damage, the French carried the level-crossing at Fismettes, which had been barricaded by the Germans, together with the railway station and neighbouring houses. They were held up by enemy fire for a short while in front of the bridge, and were obliged to carry the hat factory at the point of the bayonet. Passing over to the north side of the river, the Zouaves of the 1st regiment, with the help of the 45th line regiment, captured the heights which command the town.
THE GRAND’ PLACE OF BAZOCHES.
The ruined Church is seen at the back.
Fismes in 1918.
The town was again occupied by the Germans on May 28, 1918, after stiff fighting.
On May 27, 1918, the first day of their great offensive, the Germans reached the Vesle at about 7.30 in the evening, on both sides of Fismes. At one in the morning, on the 28th, the Germans crossed the Vesle, outflanking the town on the west. Other enemy troops, who only forced the passage of the river towards noon, were supported on their left and progressed dangerously. A frontal attack forced the French, who were defending Fismes, to retire, in order to avoid being surrounded.
Fismes was delivered on August 4 and 5 by the Americans (3rd Corps), who had reached the outskirts of the town on the evening of the previous day. On the 4th, street by street, at the bayonet’s point, they captured the town. From the 6th to the 10th the fighting continued to be extremely violent along the river, and in front of Fismettes. On the 6th American units crossed the Vesle near Fismettes, but on the 8th and 9th the Germans counter-attacked vigorously to the east of Fismes and before Fismettes. After breaking down the German resistance, the Americans occupied Fismettes definitely on the 10th. On the following days, especially on the 12th and 28th, furious counter-attacks by the Germans failed to retake Fismettes.
The offensive by General Mangin’s army against the tablelands to the north-east of Soissons, from August 30, made itself felt along the Vesle front. Fearing to be outflanked, and in order to shorten his front, the enemy abandoned the heights overlooking the river, and retreated to the Aisne during the night of September 3-4. On the 4th, Franco-American troops crossed the Vesle along an eighteen-mile front, advancing on an average about two and a half miles to the north. On the 5th they reached the Aisne.
After visiting Fismes, if the tourist desires to go to Rheims, he should continue in the direction taken to go to the cemetery, following N. 31.
To continue the itinerary of the American battle, return to the Hôtel-de-Ville and follow N. 31 towards Bazoches. Cross the railway (level-crossing), the river in the middle of the marshes, then the bridge over the railway. The bombardment did great damage here. On arriving at Bazoches, take the road which branches off N. 31 and leads to the village. The walls of the cemetery on the left are in ruins. By the side of the cemetery are the graves of the American soldiers who fell in the vicinity.
BAZOCHES CHURCH.
Bazoches is one of the most ancient country towns in the Department of the Aisne. It is held by some to have had its origin in the public granaries built there by the Romans after their conquest of Gaul. Several martyrdoms took place there.
GENERAL VIEW OF BAZOCHES.
The N. 31 road which the tourist has just left runs at the foot of the hill.
BAZOCHES CHÂTEAU IN 1914.
Situated on the railway from Soissons to Rheims, and connected by branch lines with the railway from Paris to Châlons, via Château-Thierry and Epernay, and the lines radiating from Villers-Cotterets towards Paris, the important position of Bazoches was hotly disputed during the fighting from May to August, 1918.
The Americans co-operated actively in its re-capture in August, 1918. On August 7 they crossed the Vesle to the east of the town, under particularly difficult conditions. The river and its banks literally bristled with wire entanglements, and were swept by deadly machine-gun and artillery fire, but the Americans got across nevertheless.
The itinerary passes in front of the Church of St. Peter (12th and 13th centuries).
Leaving the church on the right, the Square from which the above photograph was taken, is reached. View on the left of the remains of the 12th century Castle, which now serves as a farm. It is flanked by a tower at each of its four corners and in the middle of each side. The great moat which surrounded the central portion of the building was protected by a wall (practically intact on the south-west) flanked by twenty-two round towers. Several of the latter are still standing.
BAZOCHES CASTLE IN 1918.
ALL THAT REMAINED OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.
Compare with photo below, taking as a guide the two trees.
Continue along the road, turn to the left, cross the railway (level-crossing), then the river; take the first road on the right (I. C. 33) towards Mont-Notre-Dame, and follow the valley of the Vesle.
This river, which rises in the Department of the Marne, flows from east to west, entering the Department of the Aisne to the north of Bazoches. According to tradition it owes its existence and name to a Queen of the Belgians.
Pass under, then over the railway, and enter the village of Mont-Notre-Dame.
The village is very ancient, and was no doubt first built on the top of the plateau, at the foot of which it now stands. From 589 to 985 A.D. six Councils of Prelates were held there, and in the 11th century two Synods.
MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914.
See photo above.
ANOTHER VIEW OF THE RUINS OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.
Compare with photo below.
Mont-Notre-Dame, an isolated hill, sugar-loaf in shape, dominates all the surrounding country. It formed an excellent position for the artillery during the fighting in this region and was used by both sides.
In the village turn to the left and skirt the hill, then take the steep rise on the right, which leads to the top. On the right, caverns are visible in the hill-sides. The church, now a mere heap of stones, is next reached. The cemetery is behind.
According to tradition this church (historical monument) was founded in the 9th century. It was rebuilt in the 12th and 13th centuries.
Only part of the vast original edifice (similar in style to the Cathedral of Soissons) was retained when the church was rebuilt. In 1650, when the Spanish occupied the surrounding country, the peasants took refuge in the towers of the church. They were discovered, and the church set on fire, most of the peasants being burnt alive.
MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914 SEEN FROM THE CEMETERY.
Compare with photo above.
RUINS OF THE CASTLE AT MONT-NOTRE-DAME IN 1918.
The ruins of the 18th century château, destroyed by the bombardments, stand on the left of the church. The entrance-gates, enclosure wall, and an isolated outbuilding are all that the bombardments have spared. Inside the park a heap of débris and stones marks the spot where the castle stood.
The castle was protected by a fortress with massive towers and donjon, which was destroyed and rebuilt several times.
From the top of the hill fine panorama of the valley of the Vesle to the north. There was much severe fighting on its banks throughout the War.
At the bottom of the hill turn to the right and follow the uphill road G. C. 14 to Chéry-Chartreuve.
To visit the church keep to the left of the village, and climb on foot the small hill, on which the church stands. To visit the American Cemetery (about three-quarters of a mile from the village) follow G. C. 21 in the same direction.
Return to Chéry-Chartreuve and continue along G. C. 14 to Dravegny, passing straight through.
CEMETERY IN CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE VILLAGE. AMERICAN AND FRENCH GRAVES SIDE BY SIDE.
INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.
AMERICAN ARTILLERYMEN NEAR CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.
AMERICAN TROOPS PASSING THROUGH DRAVIGNY VILLAGE.
COULONGES VILLAGE.
Fine run down to Cohan. Turn to the right in front of the church, then to the left, to cross the river, and afterwards to the right towards Coulonges.
This village existed at the time of the Roman invasion. In 1838 the foundations of Gallo-Roman houses and various objects belonging to the same period were discovered in the court-yard of the notary’s house. The Americans captured the village on August 2.
On leaving Coulonges turn to the right and cross the river. At the following fork, if not pressed for time, visit the Castle of Nesle (2-1/2 miles); the American Cemetery at Seringes (3-1/2 miles); and the village and castle of Fère-en-Tardenois (5-1/2 miles). To this end take the G. C. 2 on the right to Nesles. The road leading to the castle (on the right) is rough.
Portions of the castle are well preserved, including the enclosure walls, flanked by six towers 60 feet high. The door opening on the northern curtain is protected by two similar towers. The donjon, now in ruins, was 100 feet high.
The castle was built about the year 1230 by Robert de Dreux, Count of Braime. Pierre de Rieux, Marshal of France, was imprisoned there by Guillaume de Flavy in the 15th century, and murdered by his jailer.
DONJON AND ENTRANCE TO NESLES CASTLE.
NESLES CASTLE SEEN FROM THE TOP OF THE DONJON.
Guillaume de Flavy, who was notorious for his ferocious cruelty, turned the castle into a stronghold for his mercenaries. It was he who delivered Joan of Arc to the Burgundians at Compiègne, of which town he was governor.
The castle was captured by the Americans after three days’ fighting (July 28 to 31, 1918).
Continue towards Seringes. On the right of the road, rather more than a mile after Nesles, there is an American Cemetery.
The village, which is slightly to the north of the road, was taken by the Americans on July 31, 1918. Early in the morning of August 1 the Germans retook it during a counter-attack, only to lose it again. In this region the Americans encountered two picked German Divisions (4th Guards and 6th Bavarians), beating them soundly.
AMERICAN CEMETERY AT SERINGES.
FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS CHURCH.
Fère-en-Tardenois, which is reached shortly afterwards, is very ancient, although tradition, according to which it was the “Fara” given by Clovis to St. Genevieve, and by the latter to St. Remi, is now generally admitted to be mythical.
On May 30, 1918, Fère was recaptured by the Germans, only to be reconquered by the Allies during their counter-offensive of July. Already on the 19th the French were within nine miles of the town, but on the following days the Germans made a determined stand in the outskirts. On the 25th the resistance of the enemy, who had been reinforced by a fresh division of Bavarian reserves, stiffened, but broke down on the 27th. The Germans were obliged to retreat, and the French occupied the town on the 28th.
On the 30th the enemy counter-attacked and retook the railway station to the north of the town, but on August 1, in spite of bitter resistance and the withering fire of countless machine-guns, the Allies continued to gain ground. In danger of being outflanked on the north-west, the Germans further retreated on August 2, which completely liberated the town.
In the village turn to the left to visit the church.
INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS.
THE MARKET-HALL AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS IN 1917.
The church, which was destroyed during the Hundred Years’ War, was rebuilt in the 16th century—the nave at the beginning, the choir later, and the steeple in full Renaissance period.
In the left aisle there is a 17th century funeral monument, and in the right a carved churchwardens’ bench. The pulpit is adorned with carved figures of the Evangelists. The high altar with twisted columns is of gilt wood, and is surmounted by an “Adoration of the Wise Men” by Vignon (1643), flanked by a painting of St. Hubert and a portrait of Louis XIII. curing a sick person, when passing through Fère in May, 1635. The altar of painted wood, with its carved wooden screen, painted and gilded (1664), is on the left, and serves as a reliquary for the remains of Saint Macre, the Patron-Saint of La Fère. It was taken from the former Church of Courmont. In one of the last windows of the southern aisle was some 16th century stained-glass.
After visiting the church, turn to the right (looking towards it) into the “Grande Place,” which contains a stone fountain and the old Market Hall.
The round pillars and wooden posts of the Market Hall, which was finished in 1552, support the fine timber-work roof.
The latter was destroyed by shell-fire, but has been temporarily repaired (see photos above and below).
THE ABOVE MARKET HALL IN 1918.
(Note the temporary pitch-paper roof.)
THE GREAT BRIDGE OF FÈRE CASTLE.
(See below).
Cross the square, skirting the Market Hall, and turn to the left towards the castle.
To enter the castle, take the second road on the right, after the pond, and pass under the great bridge, which will bring the tourist out in front of the castle.
To visit the Great Bridge and the ruins of the Feudal Castle, take the lane on the left of the latter.
Castle of Fère (Historical Monument).—This is one of the finest sights in the region. The present buildings include some of the ancient outbuildings (restored) and the fortress.
FÈRE CASTLE.
The castle was begun in 1206, by Robert de Dreux and Jean de Bretagne, on an eminence which was artificially isolated from the neighbouring hill.
ENTRANCE TO THE GALLERY LEADING TO THE RUINS OF THE FEUDAL CASTLE OF FÈRE.
Anne de Montmorency, to whom it was given in 1528 by François Ier, transformed it into an elegant and rich mansion.
Large bay-windows were made in the towers and curtains. The mediæval entrance was replaced by the present magnificent covered bridge, which measures approximately 200 feet in length, 11 feet in width, and 65 feet in height, and which was probably built by the famous Renaissance architect, Jean Bullant (photo, p. 120).
The portico at the entrance of the gallery is adorned with mutilated carvings, attributed by some to Jean Goujon.
The long vaulted entrance leads to an enclosure, around which are eight ruined towers. Seen from the outside, these towers are remarkable for their peculiar construction. The castle, which was falling into ruins, was pulled down by Louis-Philippe of Orleans.
REMAINS OF THE FEUDAL CASTLE AND THE GALLERY LEADING THITHER.
MARKET-DAY IN THE GRAND’ PLACE AT FÈRE.
Return to and cross through Fère, leaving the market-place on the right. Return, by the road previously taken, to the fork at Coulonges, and take G. C. 14 on the right to Chamery. This village was reconquered by the Americans on July 31, 1918, in spite of the enemy’s strenuous efforts to keep it.
At the entrance to Chamery, where the road turns to the right, follow on foot the path leading to the grave of Lieutenant Quentin Roosevelt, which is about 300 yards further on.
After Chamery, turn to the left, towards Cierges.
On the left of the road is Reddy Farm, which was taken by the Americans on August 1, 1918, after sharp fighting.
The tableland on the right was used as an aviation camp.
LIEUTENANT QUENTIN ROOSEVELT’S GRAVE AT CHAMERY (see above).
RUINED CHURCH AT CIERGES.
Cierges is reached soon afterwards. This village is extremely ancient, many Gaulish and Gallo-Roman objects having been unearthed there. It was captured by the Americans (32nd Division) on July 31, as well as Sergy, which the 42nd Division lost and retook three times.
Take the road to the right, to Courmont, crossing the Ourcq River. There are some American graves at the fork before entering Courmont. In front of the ruined church, turn to the left.
Before leaving the village, turn again to the left, then at the fork, 500 yards beyond the village, take the road on the right to Charmel. The road passes through a wood, cut to pieces by the shells. German artillery was installed there. At the other side is the road which leads to the Castle of Charmel, about 300 yards distant. The castle, which is magnificently situated, overlooks (to the North) the vast plain which spreads out between the extreme points of the Forests of Fère and Ris and (to the South) the valley of the Marne.
THIS WAS THE VILLAGE CHURCH AT COURMONT.
CHARMEL CASTLE.
It was to this castle that, before dying, the Bishop of Metz, Pierre Bédacier, summoned Bossuet (future Bishop of Meaux), and gave up in favour of the latter, the Priory of Gassicourt-les-Mantes, in the Diocese of Chartres, of which he was the Senior Prior. Bossuet had considerable difficulty in getting the transfer ratified and was accused of having acted fraudulently by those who disputed his claims.
The cemetery is near by. At the entrance to the village is one of the familiar Michelin “Merci” signs (to be found in most localities in France) which indicate the name of the village and the number of the road.
BARRICADE AT THE ENTRANCE TO CHARMEL VILLAGE.
THE GRAND’ PLACE AT JAULGONNE.
Placed at both ends of the villages on the great touring routes, these signs, in addition to the information above mentioned, bear the request “Mind the Children,” on one side, and “Merci” (Thanks) on the other.
Leave the church on the right, keep to the left, then take the road on the right (G. C. 3), which leads towards the valley of the Marne. Very fine view along the zig-zag, down-hill road to the river.
Jaulgonne is next reached.
From Courmont to Jaulgonne the road runs between the woods of Fère (to the west) and Ris (to the east), in the middle of the region which the Americans conquered from July 22, 1918, onwards.
CHARTÈVES CHURCH.
The fighting was extremely fierce throughout this region. To save their guns and organize their retreat the Germans stubbornly opposed the American advance. However, foot by foot, they were obliged to give way before the impetuous onrush of the Americans. From the 23rd to the 26th the latter, after a prolonged struggle, captured Charmel and the whole of the heights running parallel to the Marne. The German prisoners captured in Ris Wood declared that their orders were to hold out at all costs, to allow of a counter-attack by two divisions of the Guards. On the succeeding days
RUINED CHURCH AT MONT-ST.-PÈRE.
the Americans continued to clear the northern part of the wood, and finally drove the enemy back to the Ourcq, which was crossed on the 29th.
Pass through Jaulgonne, and keep straight on at the fork in the road on leaving the village. The road follows the Marne. Pass through Chartèves (photo p. 125), shortly after which Mont-St.-Père is reached.
AMERICAN CEMETERY AT MONT-ST.-PÈRE (1918).
GLAND VILLAGE IN RUINS.
The Church is in the background.
Mont-St.-Père.—In the village, at the fork of G. C. 4 (on the right, leading to Epieds) and G. C. 3 (leading to Château-Thierry), take the former for about 200 yards to a road on the left, which leads to the top of the hill, where stand the ruins of the church (photo p. 126) and castle. Leaving the car, which should return to the Château-Thierry road and wait at the exit of Mont-St.-Père, at the point where the lane from the Church of Mont-St.-Père rejoins the road to Château-Thierry, the tourist should go on foot to the church and castle.
On September 3, 1914, a French infantry regiment, retreating southwards, found Mont-St.-Père occupied by the Germans. Forcing their way through at the point of the bayonet, they crossed the Marne, and after destroying the bridge, continued their retreat.
After admiring the view, the tourist should descend the hill on the side opposite; on reaching the Château-Thierry road he will find his car waiting for him.
On the hillside to the right, on leaving Mont-St.-Père, there is an American cemetery (photo, p. 126).
The road continues to follow the Marne. Pass through Gland, leaving the church on the left. Brasles is reached soon afterwards. The church is on the right.
Throughout the whole of the region covered since leaving Jaulgonne the Americans fought with great bravery on both banks of the Marne.
On May 28, 1918, the second day of the German Offensive, the German High Command changed its original plans, which were to limit the operations to the taking of the heights south of the Vesle, and then to cause the fall of Soissons and Rheims. The Franco-British resistance on the two wings, and the rapid advance of the Germans in the centre, caused the German High Command to attempt the thrust towards the Marne. From May 29 to June 1 the centre of the 7th German Army made a dash for the Marne. On the evening of the 29th the Kommandant of the 231st Division declared that it was a “question of honour to reach the Marne to-morrow.” Two second line divisions (the 231st and 103rd) were interposed between the 10th and 28th on one side, and the 36th and 5th Guards on the other. It thus became a race to the Marne between these divisions. On May 30 the 231st reached the river at about two o’clock in the afternoon, between Brasles and Mont-St.-Père, while the 28th entered Jaulgonne at six in the evening.
RUINED CHURCH AT BRASLES.
On June 1 the Germans tried to get a footing on the heights on the south bank of the Marne. It has been seen that they were unable to cross the river at Château-Thierry, the bridge having been destroyed. At Jaulgonne a battalion of the 36th succeeded in crossing, on the nights of May 31 and June 1, only to be thrown back on the other side, or captured by Franco-American troops on the 2nd. On the 3rd the Germans gave up the attempt, and things quietened down in this sector, which the Americans continued to guard.
During the German “Peace Offensive” of July 15, the Americans (3rd Division) resolutely withstood the shock on the Marne. Behind a thick smoke curtain, and favoured by the night mists, German pioneers threw bridges over the river from Gland eastwards, along a twelve-mile front. About a dozen bridges, some of them 25 to 30 feet wide, were established. German engineers were particularly active in front of Mont-St.-Père, Jaulgonne, and Chartèves. At dawn, while the infantry were being taken across the river in boats and on pontoons worked by steel cables, the artillery crossed the bridges. French and American aviators, flying as low as 150 feet, raked the bridges and pontoons with machine-gun fire, while two of the bridges, struck by bombs, collapsed, throwing men, horses, and baggage into the river.
At great sacrifice the Germans succeeded in getting a footing on the southern slopes of the Marne. The objectives of their extreme right, starting from Chartèves, were points five to six miles south of the river. They were held up by the Americans. Of the 1,000 prisoners taken by the Allies during their counter-attack south of the Marne on July 15, 600 were captured by the Americans, who forced the Germans back over the river, west of Jaulgonne. To the east of that village the Germans advanced several kilometres south of the river. Part of the American front, facing eastwards, made a dogged resistance until July 20, in spite of enemy reinforcements. The 3rd American Division fought for nine consecutive days, and was only relieved by the 32nd Division on July 30.
The success of the Franco-American counter-attack of July 18, from Château-Thierry to Soissons, relieved the violent pressure on the Americans, and forced the Germans to retreat across the river. It was now the turn of the Americans to attack. On the 21st they crossed the river and occupied Mont-St.-Père, Chartèves, and Jaulgonne. On the 22nd, they captured the villages east of Jaulgonne, and continued their march towards the Ourcq.
The tourist has now gone over their field of action.
From Château-Thierry, return to Paris per the itinerary used for coming.
(On arriving at the fortifications of Paris, the tourist should present his “bulletin de réintroduction” at the “Octroi.")
CONTENTS
VOLUME I
| PAGE | |
| Foreword | [2] |
| The German Offensive | [3-21] |
| The Allies’ Counter-Offensive | [21-38] |
| The German Retreat | [28-38] |
| The Offensive of August 1 | [33-35] |
| Results of the Allies’ Counter-Offensive | [36-38] |
| A Visit to the Battlefields | [39-128] |
| 1st Itinerary | [40-62] |
| Paris | [40] |
| Château-Thierry | [40-48] |
| Belleau Wood | [49-54] |
| Bouresches | [59-60] |
| Château-Thierry | [48] |
| 2nd Itinerary | [63-96] |
| Château-Thierry | [64] |
| Oulchy-le-Château | [68-70] |
| Longpont | [76-78] |
| Soissons | [94] |
| 3rd Itinerary | [97-128] |
| Soissons | [97] |
| Laffaux | [98-99] |
| Fismes | [105-109] |
| Mont St. Père | [126-127] |
| Paris | [128] |
| American Units Engaged— | |
| 1st Corps | [27] |
| 3rd Corps | [35] |
| 1st Division | [26] |
| 2nd Division | [12] |
| 3rd Division | [13] |
| 4th Division | [27] |
| 26th Division | [21] |
| 77th Division | [35] |
SOISSONS IN NOVEMBER, 1918. NOTE THE SEPARATION OF THE CATHEDRAL TOWER FROM THE NAVE.
PRINTED IN THE U. S. A.
BY ESSEX PRESS. INC., NEWARK, N. J.
BEAUTIFUL FRANCE
Paris and its environs
PARIS—home of grandeur, elegance, and wit—plays a part in France probably unequalled in any other country, and may be considered, in many respects, as the chief city of Europe, and one of the greatest in the world. Above all, it possesses eminently national qualities which ten centuries of refinement and taste have handed down to contemporary France.
It is impossible, in a few lines, to paint the exceptional charms of Paris which the whole world admires.
Its vistas of the Champs-Elysées seen from the Tuileries and the Arc de Triomphe; of Notre-Dame and the point of the City Island seen from La Concorde Bridge; of the River Seine, the Institute, the Louvre, seen from the Pont-Neuf embankment; Notre-Dame and its quays, seen from the end of St. Louis Island; the panorama of the city seen from the top of Montmartre Hill; the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Boulogne itself, etc., etc.,—all are of incomparable beauty.
The city’s historical monuments are of inestimable value, and the most famous art treasures are to be found in its Museums.
The surroundings of Paris join the charm of their landscapes to the world-wide fame of their parks and castles: Versailles, whose palace and park recall the splendor of the Louis XIV. period, and where the “Trianons” have preserved graceful traces of the Court of Marie-Antoinette; St. Germain with its castle and forest; St. Cloud and its park; Sèvres and its world-renowned art porcelain factory; La Malmaison, home of Bonaparte before he became Napoleon I.; Rambouillet, Fontainebleau, Chartres with its marvelous cathedral, Maintenon, Dreux, etc.—all these form a girdle round Paris such as no other metropolis in the world can boast of.
MICHELIN TOURING OFFICES
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MICHELIN TYRE CO., Ltd., LONDON
Touring Office :: 81, Fulham Road, S. W.
MICHELIN & Cie, CLERMONT-FERRAND
Touring Office :: 97, Boulevard Péreire, PARIS
Why ask the Way, when . . . . .
. . . . . Michelin will tell you free of charge?
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Drop a line, ring us up, or call at one of our
Touring Offices and you will receive a carefully
worked-out description of the route to follow.
