Chauvoncourt
Chauvoncourt, occupied by the Germans from the beginning of their advance in September, 1914, was an important bridgehead which the French had an interest in retaking. Its capture and subsequent evacuation (November 16-18) are famous.
In the evening of November 16, French heavy batteries took up their position at Fresnes-au-Mont, on the left bank of the Meuse, five miles from St. Mihiel; but before attacking, the German howitzers on the Paroches position had been destroyed.
The bombardment began at dead of night. Four hundred shells fell on the enemy, causing the Bavarian ammunition dump to explode. At dawn, French infantry, massed in the peninsula of Les Romains, crossed the Meuse on a pontoon bridge, whilst the cavalry on the Fresnes road threatened Chauvoncourt from the west. By ten o’clock the infantry were in sight of the village. The Bavarians advanced by successive rushes—at each of which they fired a salvo—then halted behind a little glen. The fight became a fusilade, and would have continued indefinitely but for the arrival of the French dragoons, who, with lances fixed, charged furiously. The enemy, afraid of being cut off, retreated, followed by the cavalry, who began the siege of the houses. Every window, door and roof sheltered a Bavarian marksman. All day on the 17th the fighting continued in favour of the French, who by night occupied the western part of Chauvoncourt and slept in a French barracks. On the left bank of the Meuse the Germans, two hundred of whom had surrendered, now occupied only a few ruined houses.
But at five o’clock on the morning of the 18th an explosion was heard. At the end of the main street three houses, luckily unoccupied, had been wrecked. Orders were at once given to evacuate the occupied portion of the town, which proved to be a wise precaution, for at eight o’clock the whole south-west portion blew up, over an area of four acres. No soldiers were killed, but civilians, who stayed on in spite of orders to the contrary, were victims of their own imprudence.
Trenches and shelters are to be seen all along the road.
RUINS OF CHAUVONCOURT BARRACKS
PANORAMIC VIEW OF ST. MIHIEL AND THE VALLEY OF THE MEUSE SEEN FROM THE TOP OF PAROCHES FORT
Panoramic version
PAROCHES VILLAGE CHURCH
Leaving Chauvoncourt, take to the right G.C. 34, which leads to Paroches.
The village of Paroches is an absolute ruin. The 14th century church, with the exception of part of the belfry, has been almost entirely destroyed (photo opposite).
At the end of the village, on the right, near the Calvary and skirting the wall of the last house, there is a military cemetery. Take, on the left, the narrow road to Fort Paroches. Around the fort are numerous defence works and the graves of French soldiers.
Paroches Fort, built to protect the approaches to Spada Pass, which Troyon Fort defended on the north, is an old masonry fort. Visit the shelters, inner works in concrete.
ENTRANCE TO PAROCHES FORT
From the summit there is a fine sweeping view (panorama above) over the
THE PLACE DES HALLES, ST. MIHIEL
battlefield, the Valley of the Meuse, St. Mihiel, the “Camp-des-Romains” Fort (p. [65]), Versel Wood and Spada Pass.
Return to St. Mihiel by the same road as far as the temporary bridge over the Meuse and the Place du Manège.
From the Place du Manège, take, on the right, the Rue du Saulcy, which leads to the Place des Halles.
To the right, on reaching the “Place,” is the Rue du Pont, which leads to the ruined bridge. Turn to the left, cross the “Place,” and take the Rue Notre-Dame on the right.
At No. 1 of this street is a 15th century house with a polygonal turret. Opposite at No. 2 is a 14th-15th century house, known locally as the “Maison du Roi.”
THE MAISON DU ROI
THE PLACE DU COLLÈGE AND CHURCH OF ST. MICHEL
Follow the Rue des Carmes, which is a continuation of the Rue Notre-Dame, then the Place des Regrets to the Place du Collège.
On the left stands the Church of St. Michel.
This 17th century church is recognisable by its old Romanesque tower, which forms a vestibule in front of the building. It has three naves with side chapels divided into five bays by fluted columns.
Note the fine organ (photo, p. [68]), the pipes of which were removed by the Germans. In the Chapel of the Baptismal Fonts is a stone Cupid holding skulls.
THE SACRISTY, CHURCH OF ST. MICHEL
As the Germans left it.
The Church of St. Michel contains one of the finest of Ligier Richier’s works, known as “The Swoon,” or “The Fainting Virgin.” It stands to the right of the choir in a chapel with a door.
THE ORGAN, CHURCH OF ST. MICHEL
In the Middle Ages it was customary to represent the Virgin standing in contemplation of the wounds of her Divine Son, as described in the famous chant, Stabat Mater Dolorosa. In the 15th century, on the contrary, the Virgin was generally represented as described in the Gospel of Nicodemus. In Richier’s group we see the Virgin, supported by St. John, fainting at the foot of the Cross. The extreme simplicity of the work renders it most pathetic.
THE HÔTEL DE LA DIVISION AND CHEVET OF ST. MICHEL CHURCH
This work is only a fragment of a much larger group which comprised a large Crucifix, and on either side of the Virgin, St. Longin, Mary Magdalene and four angels, each holding a chalice to catch the Saviour’s blood. The work was in painted walnut, as had been the custom from the Middle Ages, but the worm-eaten wood gradually crumbled away. In 1720 the Benedictines managed to save the crucifix and the group of “The Swoon.” The crucifix is supposed to have been burnt during the Revolution (1792). Now all that remains is a moulding of Christ’s head.
“CAMP-DES-ROMAINS” FORT
Leaving the Church, skirt the front of the adjoining Collège, and pass under the arch of the Palais-de-Justice, thus reaching the Place des Moines. In this square is the fine façade of the old abbey, restored in the 17th and 18th centuries, the buildings of which have been transformed into the Hôtel de la Division, Palais-de-Justice and prison. Above the latter is the famous monastic library containing 13,000 volumes and valuable manuscripts.
Besides the Hôtel de la Division is the chevet of St. Michel Church, looking on to the square of that name. By turning to the left in the latter, the tourist comes back to the Place du Collège, which cross to take the Commercy road (N. 64).
On leaving St. Mihiel, N. 64 climbs up a steep slope. A mile from the town, on the left, is a concrete blockhouse at the corner of the Commercy road and that leading to Fort Camp-des-Romains. Take the latter to the fort.