Fort of the Camp-des-Romains
This is one of the two forts which protect St. Mihiel. Standing on the end of a narrow peninsula formed by a loop in the Meuse, it dominates the town from a height of 450 feet above the valley. (The hill itself is 1,200 feet high.) It owes its name to the remains of Roman entrenchments, still existing when the fort was built.
When the German Army of Metz occupied St. Mihiel on September 24, 1914, and crossed the Meuse, the Fort of the Camp-des-Romains remained isolated, without troops in the plain to defend it, and absolutely dependent on its own guns. The Germans left it alone for the time being, confident of being able to take it whenever they wished. The 16th Corps hastened to the rescue, but stopped in front of St. Mihiel. The Germans finally dug themselves in and were able, from a position near the town, to begin the bombardment of the fort with the aid of Austrian heavy guns.
POST OF CARRIER PIGEONS AT FORT CAMP-DES-ROMAINS
The guns were very quickly placed in position, and in a few days they silenced those of the French fort, the turrets and bastions of which were destroyed. In the end the heroic garrison were smoked out by the enemy, who had reached the base of the fort. When the surviving defenders, half suffocated, were able to leave the ruins, the Germans presented arms as a tribute of admiration for their valour, and permitted the captured officers to retain their swords.
All this sector, with a few slight changes, was to remain in the hands of the Germans until September, 1918.
In spite of the terrific gunfire to which it was subjected, the fort was not completely destroyed. In the moats and on the bastions are numerous concrete blockhouses built by the Germans. Near the entrance is the grave of Captain of Artillery Cordebard, killed in 1914.
From the fort there is a fine view on all sides over the valley of the Meuse and the Forest of Apremont.
Return to N. 64 which descends in a long zig-zag to the Meuse, which it crosses.
The road passes through Sampigny—considerably battered—where President Poincaré’s country house was completely ruined by the German bombardments.
It next crosses the railway before entering Vadonville and again on leaving that village.
Lerouville, then Commercy, are soon reached. The night should be spent at the latter (see information on the fly-leaf inside cover).
Commercy is of no particular interest from a picturesque or artistic point of view, but its “Madeleine” cakes enjoy a world-wide reputation.
ENTRANCE TO THE FORT
PRESIDENT POINCAIRÉ’S HOUSE AT SAMPIGNY
| Plan of Commercy | |
| Arbitrary Signs | |
| A.—Old Château, now a Barracks. C.—Barracks. H.—Hôtel-de-Ville. O.—Octrois. P.—Sous-Préfecture. T.—Theatre. 1.—Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville. 2.—Rue du Pont-des-Religieuses. 3.—Road to Metz. | 4.—Rue des Capucins. 5.—Road to Nancy. 6.—Rue Levée-de-Breuil. 7.—Road to Bar-le-Duc. 8.—Rue Carnot. 9.—Rue de Lisle. 10.—Road to Verdun. 11.—Rue du Four. 12.—Rue de l’Eglise. 13.—Rue de la Gare. |
SECOND DAY
COMMERCY—PONT-À-MOUSSON—METZ
A.—Commercy to Pont-à-Mousson (See above.)
B.—Pont-à-Mousson to Metz (See p. [109].)
Leave Commercy (Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville) by the Rue du Pont-des-Religieuses which, after crossing the Meuse, joins N. 58. Take the latter.
Pass through Vignot (2 km.) and enter Vignot Wood (French gun emplacements).
After crossing the wood the tourist approaches Gironville. Before entering the village, on the crest to the right, is Gironville Fort.
In the village immediately beyond the church, N. 58 turns to the left. Continue along it for 500 yards beyond the church, then leave it where it turns to the right, and take G.C.D. 10 towards Apremont.
The road crosses the old French and German lines (shelters and blockhouses), then rejoins, 200 yards east of Apremont, G.D.C. 1 bis, which take to the right towards Bouconville.
BOUCONVILLE VILLAGE
Before going to Bouconville, visit Apremont, Brûlé Wood and Ailly Wood, if this was not done on the first day (see pp. [42-52]).
Notice, in succession, on the left, the ruins of Loupmont Village, 1,500 yards from the road; Montsec, further north, dominating the whole district; and Vargévaux Pond, near the road.
Follow G.C.D. 1 bis, to Bouconville. Enter the village, leaving the fine Girondel Pond on the right.
NO-MAN’S LAND, NEAR RAMBUCOURT
BEAUMONT CHURCH
The 13th-14th century Church of Bouconville with its three naves is very curious.
In the cemetery are numerous French graves.
The front line, after passing south of Apremont, continued first to the right of the Bouconville road, then crossed the road to the west of Vargévaux Pond, making a bend to include the latter within the French lines, as also the village of Xivray, which was the junction of the French armies with the American divisions. It then passed through the hamlet of Seicheprey, and at Flirey rejoined the main road leading to Pont-à-Mousson.
Keep along the road towards Rambucourt.
A little before this village, N. 58 is picked up again. All the way the road is camouflaged and bordered by numerous trenches. Rambucourt was badly damaged. Numerous shelters were made along the road against the houses, the basements of which were occupied.
AMERICAN AMMUNITION CONVOY ENTERING SEICHEPREY
After passing through Rambucourt, N. 58 leads to Beaumont (in ruins).
Notice the shelters in the houses. The curious church suffered badly (photo, p. [74]).
ROMANESQUE CHURCH OF SEICHEPREY
Four hundred yards beyond Beaumont, leave the National road and take the Seicheprey road on the left.
Trenches, shelters and gun emplacements are met with, especially in a hollow on the left. Seicheprey is next reached.
This village was the scene of one of the first successes of the American Army. The Germans had taken it by surprise in April, 1918, and had kept it for some time, when it was retaken by the 26th (New England) Division.
Part of the belfry of the 12th century church is still standing (photo above).
SEICHEPREY. THE MAIN STREET ON SEPT. 12, 1918
Near the church the road bends to the right and goes towards St. Baussant. Half a mile further on the French and German first line trenches are crossed. On entering St. Baussant, notice in a house on the right in front of the stream a large machine-gun blockhouse in concrete. The loopholes are on a level with the roof.
ST. BAUSSANT VILLAGE, ON ENTERING
The house on the left was transformed into a concrete Blockhouse. Above the ruined wall: Loop-holes for the machine-guns. In the background: Ruins of old Castle.
St. Baussant is almost entirely in ruins. To the right, on the hill, stood the old château, of which only a few broken walls are left.
This village, being an important road junction, had been strongly fortified by the Germans. It is one of the places where the American tanks performed wonders, taking the position in less than half an hour.
The last house of the village, at the I.C. 13 crossing, on the right, bears the inscription “Café Hocquard.” Here are three large concrete shelters, the walls of which are five feet thick. At the fork in the road is a machine-gun blockhouse in concrete.
ST. BAUSSANT VILLAGE AND RUINS OF THE OLD CASTLE
RICHECOURT VILLAGE AND THE RUPT-DE-MAD STREAM
In the foreground: The bridge over which I.C. 19 passes. In the background: Montsec Hill.
Take I.C. 13 to the left, which follows the Rupt-de-Mad stream and becomes G.C. 33 on reaching Lahayville. 1,600 yards beyond this village (greatly damaged), leave G.C. 33 and take I.C. 19 to the right. After crossing the bridge over the Rupt-de-Mad, Richecourt, razed to the ground, is reached (photo above).
Near a house on the left, at the end of the village, is a German concrete shelter with the inscription “Pommernburg.” Other shelters of less importance are to be seen among the ruins.
GERMAN SHELTER IN RICHECOURT VILLAGE
This concrete shelter is seen on leaving the village by the road to Montsec. Over the door is the word “Pommernburg.” The village is a heap of ruins.
MONTSEC
German Telephone Exchange on the road to Woinville.
Follow I.C. 19 as far as Montsec (3 km.).
The village of Montsec is at the foot of the hill; it was badly damaged.
Montsec Ridge, or Hill 380, made a first-class observation-post for the Germans, as it dominates the whole district from Apremont to Flirey.
Montsec was the scene of the fiercest fighting on June 17, 1916. The French were unable to take it on account of its formidable defences. From that time no surprise-attacks took place in this district.
MONTSEC. RUINS OF CHURCH AND VILLAGE
On the crest, the Germans had constructed a system of tunnels, the entries of which overlooked the region of Heudicourt-Buxières, and at the end of which chimneys over 30 feet in height opened in the summit of the hill. The observers climbed up the chimneys by means of ladders and directed the firing of the artillery, which was massed in the surrounding woods.
MONTSEC
German Signalling Post.
The system of trenches and shelters was remarkable. In some places the shelters were furnished with electric light.
To visit the military works of Montsec, go beyond the village along I.C. 19 and stop at the last houses on the left, where there is an enormous concrete shelter, which served as an artillery telephone exchange, (photo, p. [78]). A narrow road leads from this shelter to the entrances of the tunnels on the crest. (Time required to visit: one hour.)
AMERICAN COLUMNS MARCHING TOWARDS MONTSEC (SEPT. 13, 1918)
ESSEY CHURCH
After visiting Montsec return to St. Baussant by the same roads (I.C. 19 to Richecourt, then G.C. 33 and I.C. 13).
Follow I.C. 13 beyond St. Baussant to Maizerais (completely ruined), seen on the left of the road, and Essey on the Rupt-de-Mad stream.
From December, 1916, the village of Essey was close to the front, and occupied by the Germans. The inhabitants and mayor remained during the occupation, but were forbidden, on pain of death, to go more than a short distance from their homes.
In the village, at the corner of the Rue Béquille and the Grand Rue, is a concrete blockhouse.
The church was partly destroyed. On its north front, protected by the church belfry, were the Kommandantur’s quarters—an important concrete construction with walls five feet thick.
After visiting Essey, take D. 3, which passes in front of the church, and follow it towards Flirey.
SONNARD WOOD
American Cemetery. In the background, at the foot of the larger trees, is the road D. 3.
To the right and left are numerous shelters. Turn to the right alongside Sonnard Wood, beside which, 50 yards from the road, are an American cemetery and, on the left, Mort-Mare Wood.
Mort-Mare Wood is famous for the terrible struggles that took place for its possession.
It was while reconnoitring over this wood in an aeroplane that Senator Reymond was killed on October 22, 1914. He was returning from a flight over Mars-la-Tour, Chambley and Thiaucourt, with Pilot Adjutant Clamadieu, and the machine was turning to the right of the southern edge of the wood, when it was seen descending, apparently normally, between the French and German lines. Machine-guns at once opened fire; the Adjutant was killed and Senator Reymond wounded. The French came out of their trenches and a fierce struggle, which lasted until night, took place round the machine. Only then was Reymond able to crawl into the lines, while the French carried back the body of the Adjutant.
Reymond was taken to the hospital at Toul, and was able, before he died, to give an exact account of the mission in the fulfilment of which he had met such a glorious end.
On reaching the crest, the road crosses the old German first lines (concrete blockhouses). Flirey next comes into sight.
This village, which formed part of the first French lines from 1914, is almost completely in ruins, while the whole country around is laid waste.
On the right are seen the ruins of Toul-Thiaucourt railway bridge.
Half a mile from the village, keep along D. 3, to visit the famous Flirey Quarry, where there are numerous shelters and French graves. The surrounding woods contain the emplacements of several batteries.
Return to Flirey and take, on the right, N. 58 towards Pont-à-Mousson.
RUINS OF FLIREY VILLAGE
N. 58, seen in the photo, passes through the village.
FLIREY QUARRY
In the background: D. 3 and Sonnard Wood.
One kilometre from Flirey, at the top of the crest, on the right, is a military cemetery. The road runs parallel with the old French first lines, which followed the crest on the left.
At the entrance to Limey, through which N. 58 runs, there is a large French cemetery on the left.
The village of Limey, famous for the hard and bloody battles fought there in September, 1914, is in ruins. The west front of the church was torn open. Numerous shelters are seen, two of them, in cement, being very large; the first, in the middle of the village on the right of the main road; the other, a machine-gun blockhouse, in the last house on the right.
Beyond Limey the road crosses a vast wooded district, known as La Haye, which covers the whole plateau.
Two and a half kilometres from Limey, on the left side of the road, a place called Fond-des-Vaux contains numerous French shelters (several in concrete), and also a military cemetery. This is Lampe Camp.
LIMEY VILLAGE
Concrete shelter on the right of N. 58, when coming from Flirey in the middle of the village.
LAMPE CAMP
At the back, on the left: N. 58.
Three hundred yards further along the road there are American graves to the right.
The Inn of St. Pierre is next reached, from which D. 15 leaves to the left towards Thiaucourt. Take this road.
ST. PIERRE INN DRESSING STATION
Arrival of wounded soldier.
Throughout the war St. Pierre Inn, which is at the entrance to Prêtre Wood, was the nearest dressing station to the front. The buildings suffered little, thanks to the sheltering forest. Prêtre Wood will be visited on leaving Pont-à-Mousson.
FEY-EN-HAYE CHURCH AND CEMETERY IN 1915
Eight hundred yards from the inn, to the right of D. 15, the Fey-en-Haye road debouches. This road is not available for motors. A visit to the village is interesting, as it was in the first French lines (distance there and back, 3 km.).
Fey-en-Haye is about 100 yards from the western edge of Prêtre Wood. At the end of September, 1914, a bloody engagement took place there. Up to the end of March, 1915, this unfortunate village was continuously bombarded, and it was entirely demolished when, on April 2, 1915, it was taken by a French battalion (169th Infantry). Its capture was the prelude to the last series of attacks which, after seven months of terrific fighting, ended on May 31, in the capture of Prêtre Wood.
Fey-en-Haye is now merely a heap of ruins. A number of trenches run through it, and a few shelters still exist.
After coming back to D. 15, continue along it as far as Regniéville, a village of which nothing remains but part of the belfry of the church (photo, p. [85]).
FEY-EN-HAYE. PLACE DE L’EGLISE IN 1915
REGNIÉVILLE VILLAGE AND THE RUINED BELFRY OF THE CHURCH
For a long time Regniéville was the advance-post of the French line between Mort-Mare Wood, on the left, and Prêtre Wood, on the right. At the beginning of April, 1915, the French advance was especially dangerous for the enemy, whose counter-attacks became more frequent. It was evident that the slightest advance in the direction of Thiaucourt would hamper the German communications between Metz and St. Mihiel, and would hinder the revictualling of the troops as well as the steady supply of reinforcements and munitions. That is why, on April 9, the Germans made fifteen successive attacks to drive the French from their trenches and the edge of Mort-Mare Wood.
AMERICAN GRAVES AT REGNIÉVILLE
Keep on towards Thiaucourt. To the left of D. 15 there is an American cemetery (photo below), 500 yards from Regniéville. 1 km. further on, fifty yards from the road, and before entering Four Wood, lies a derelict Renault tank (photo above), and beside it the graves of its drivers. In the Wood are numerous German gun emplacements.
FOUR WOOD
Smashed Renault Tank at the edge of the wood.
On reaching the crest (Hill 340), on the right, alongside Saules Wood, are two German gun shelters.
Further on, at the “milestone” 4 km. from Thiaucourt, is a concrete blockhouse (photo below).
From I.C. 13, D. 15 descends in a large bend across Heiche Wood.
One kilometre from Thiaucourt, in a ravine on the right of D. 15, there stood a large railway station and an important German military depot. On the other side of the road there is a German cemetery containing 600 graves.
Thiaucourt, altitude 750 feet, stands in an amphitheatre, in the centre of a loop described by the Rupt-de-Mad stream.
A large number of its houses are in ruins, especially on the banks of the Rupt.
Thiaucourt was a rest-camp behind the German lines. Numerous huts were erected on the banks of the stream, many vestiges of which still remain.
After crossing the Rupt-de-Mad in Thiaucourt, keep along the street which continues the bridge and rises to the end of the town. On the right, towards the last of the houses, is I.C. 13, leading to Jaulny.
THIAUCOURT ROAD (D. 15). MACHINE-GUN BLOCKHOUSE
Recross the Rupt-de-Mad at the entrance to Jaulny. Take to the left, along the river, the road running through the village, many of whose houses were damaged by shells.
THIAUCOURT. BRIDGE OVER THE RUPT-DE-MAD
On leaving Jaulny there is a large German cemetery on the right.
I.C. 13 runs through a pretty valley, alongside the Rupt-de-Mad and passes near the railway station. The old road having been destroyed by the explosion of a German ammunition train, a new road enables the tourist, by crossing the river, to reach the village of Rembercourt on the left bank. The bridge was blown up and many of the houses are in ruins.
I.C. 13, which continues alongside the Rupt-de-Mad as far as the Moselle, is next reached. This road is extremely picturesque.
AMERICAN CEMETERY AT THIAUCOURT, AT THE SIDE OF D. 15, HALF A MILE FROM THE VILLAGE
Leaving Villecey-sur-Mad, slightly damaged, on the right, go towards Onville. Three hundred yards this side of the village, to the left of I.C. 13, is a large German cemetery. The village, on which a few shells fell, contains a fine church.
Vandelainville, which is the continuation of Onville, contains several houses damaged by the bombardments.
Passing through the villages of Bayonville and Arnaville, N. 52 bis, which runs along the left bank of the Moselle, and which take to the right in the direction of Pagny-sur-Moselle.
This village, also called Pagny-sous-Prény, from the name of the hamlet and château which dominates the surrounding country, was for forty-eight years the Custom House, being the last French railway station before the frontier.
Prény Château, the ruins of which are visible from here, was one of the most famous castles of the Middle Ages. Built by the Dukes of Lorraine, it was dismantled by Richelieu. It formed a square flanked by high, strong towers connected with one another by walls and subterranean passages hollowed out of the rock. At one end there was a second building, also surrounded by moats and flanked by towers, in one of which was the famous “Mande-Guerre” bell. The keep with the chapel and living-rooms stood there.
Pagny suffered severely, most of the houses being in ruins.
The road turns to the left into the valley, then to the right beyond the church, which is left on the right.
Just outside Pagny-sur-Moselle the Germans built a concrete barrier across the road to stop the tanks.
About 500 yards from Pagny, near the bridge over Mouton stream, is a machine-gun blockhouse in concrete on the right.
N. 52 bis next passes through Vandières, which was burnt down by the Germans during their retreat of September 16. All the houses along the road, especially those on the left, are in ruins.
Five kilometres further on, after crossing the railway, Pont-à-Mousson is entered by the Rue du Port, Place Colombe and Rue St. Laurent; the latter brings the tourist to the Grand Place or Place Duroc.
VILLAGE OF PAGNY-SUR-MOSELLE, NEAR THE CHURCH
PONT-À-MOUSSON. THE BANKS OF THE MOSELLE
PONT-À-MOUSSON
Origin and Chief Historical Events
Pont-à-Mousson is an old town, in whose archives are found deeds dating back to 896 and 905. At that time it was called “Villa Pontus sub castro Montionis” (The Town of the Bridge under the Castle of Monçon).
In the 16th century there was a long controversy between the professors of the University and those of the Jesuit College as to whether the town (“Pont”) or the castle (“Monçon” or “Mousson”) should have precedence, i.e. if one should say “Ponti Mussum” or “Mussi Pontum.” The dispute was settled and the name “Ponti Mussum” (Pont-à-Mousson) decreed by Duke Charles III. Nevertheless, the inhabitants still insist on calling themselves “Mussipontins.”
Renaud I., Count of Bar, living a retired life in his château of Mousson, founded near the town in 1106 a priory dedicated to St. Michel, which he gave to the Abbey of St. Mihiel. In 1239 the “Messins” (inhabitants of Metz) broke down the bridge to prevent the Count of Bar communicating with his castle, but three years later they joined the Count of Bar against Duke Mathieu who, in revenge, burned down the little town of Pont.
Enfranchised in 1263 by Count Thiébaut II., Pont-à-Mousson was raised to a marquisate in 1355 by Emperor Charles IV., and, in 1356, was granted the rights and privileges of an imperial town.
Charles-the-Bold took possession of it in 1476, but it was retaken later by Duke René. However, the defection of his Swiss troops forced him to surrender it again to the Duke of Burgundy.
What made the glory and prosperity of the town was the foundation of a University in 1572. The influx of students and the renown of the professors made Pont-à-Mousson famous until 1763, when the University was transferred to Nancy.
The University encouraged the establishment of printing works, and volumes printed by Marchand and Melchior Bernard are still justly prized.
Although an open town, Pont-à-Mousson was violently bombarded by the Germans as early as August 11, 1914. After a short occupation the town was liberated by the French on September 13, 1914. The bombardments were resumed and lasted till the end of the war.
As to the part played by Pont-à-Mousson in the Battle for the Grand Couronné Heights, see the Michelin Guide, “Nancy and the Grand Couronné.”
PLAN OF PONT-À-MOUSSON
| Arbitrary Signs | |
| A.—Church of St. Laurent. B.—Church of St. Martin. C.—Lesser Seminary. H.—Hôtel-de-Ville. 1.—Rue du Port. 2.—Rue St. Laurent. | 3.—Place Duroc. 4.—Rue de l’Union. 5.—Rue Gambetta. 6.—Rue St. Martin. 7.—Rue Victor Hugo. 8.—Place Thiers. 9.—Avenue Carnot. |