PLAIN POINT STITCHES.
Nos. 1 and 2.—Point de Bruxelles or Brussels Point.—Among the stitches most used in lace-making is Point de Bruxelles or Brussels point. It is simply a button-hole stitch worked loosely, and it must be done with regularity, as the beauty of the work depends almost wholly upon the evenness of the stitches. Brussels point is occasionally used as an edge, but is more frequently seen in rows worked back and forth to fill in spaces, or as a ground work. The illustrations clearly represent the method of making this stitch.
No. 1.—Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Point).
No. 2.—Point de Bruxelles Worked in Rows.
No. 3.—Point de Venise, or Venice Point.—This stitch is worked from left to right, like Brussels point. Work 1 loose button-hole stitch, and in this stitch work 4 button-hole stitches tightly drawn up, then work another loose button-hole stitch, then 4 more tight button-hole stitches in the loose one; repeat to the end of the row, and fasten off.
No. 3.—Point de Venise (Venice Point).
No. 4.—Petit Point de Venise (Little Venice Point).
No. 4.—Petit Point de Venise, or Little Venice Point.—This stitch is worked in the same manner as point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked in each loose button-hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for filling in small spaces.
No. 5.—Italian Lace Stitch.—Commence at the right side and pass the thread to the left.
First row.—Make a loose button-hole stitch into the braid to form a loop, then pass the needle under the line of thread, making the loops an eighth of an inch apart.
Second row.—Pass the thread back to the left, make a button-hole stitch in every loop, and pass the needle under the line of thread after each button-hole stitch.
No. 5.—Italian Lace Stitch.
No. 6.—Cobweb Lace Stitch.
No. 6.—Cobweb Lace Stitch.—Commence at the right side, pass the thread to the left, work 3 button-hole stitches, miss the space of 3, which will leave a small loop, and continue these details to the end.
Second row.—Pass the thread back to the left side, work 3 button-hole stitches in each loop, taking up the line of thread with the loop, as seen in the engraving.
No. 7.—Point Brabançon.—This stitch is worked as follows from left to right:
First row.—Make 1 long, loose point de Bruxelles, and 1 short loose one alternately, to end of row.
Second row.—Make 7 tight point de Bruxelles in the 1 long, loose stitch, and 2 short, loose point de Bruxelles in the short, loose stitch on previous row, and repeat across the row.
Third row.—Same as first.
No. 7.—Point Brabançon.
No. 8.—Point de Valenciennes (Valenciennes Stitch).
No. 8.—Point de Valenciennes, or Valenciennes Stitch.—This stitch appears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at the left hand and work 6 point de Bruxelles stitches at unequal distances, every alternate stitch being the larger.
Second row.—Upon the first large or long stitch, work 9 close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point de Bruxelles stitch under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on to the end of the row (right to left).
Third row.—Make 5 close button-hole stitches in the 9 of previous row, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, in the Bruxelles stitch, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1 short, 5 close, 1 short and repeat.
Fourth row.—Make 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1 short, 5 close, 1 short, 2 close, 1 short, and repeat. Continue the rows until sufficient of the pattern is worked.
No. 9.—Point d'Espagne, or Spanish Point.—This variety of stitch is worked from left to right as follows: Insert the needle in the edge of the braid, keeping the thread turned to the right, and bringing it out inside the loop formed by the thread (see illustration No. 9); the needle must pass from the back of the loop through it. Pass the needle under the stitch and bring it out in front, thus twice twisting the thread, which produces the cord-like appearance of this stitch. At the end of each row fasten to the braid and sew back, inserting the needle once in every open stitch.
No. 9.—Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point).
No. 10.—Genoa Lace Stitch.—Commence at the right side, and work as follows:
First row.—Work 4 button-hole stitches, miss the space of 3, work 3, miss the space of 3, work 4. Continue to the end.
Second row.—Work 9 stitches close together, 3 into the spaces of the 4, and 3 more into the loop at each side of it. Miss the 3 stitches, and make 9 as before.
Third row.—Make 9 close stitches, 3 into the last 3 spaces of the 9, 3 into the loop, and 3 into the first spaces of the 9 next, and so on to the end.
Fourth row.—Repeat the first, making the 3 stitches into the loop, and the 4 into the center spaces of the nine.
No. 10.—Genoa Lace Stitch.
No. 11.—Flemish Lace Stitch.
No. 11.—Flemish Lace Stitch.—Commence at the right side, and work as follows:
First row.—Work 2 button-hole stitches close together, miss the space of 2, work 2, miss the space of 8; this will leave a large loop and a small one alternately.
Second row.—Make 8 button-hole stitches in the larger loops and 2 in the small ones.
Third row.—Repeat the first row, making 2 stitches in each loop of the second row.
No. 12.—Point de Fillet, or Net Groundwork Stitch.—This stitch is also represented at No. 21, on page 13, but the method of making the knot is here illustrated. It is used for ground-work where Brussels net is not imitated, and is very effective wherever it is used. It is begun in the corner or crosswise of the space to be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles stitch is first taken and fastened to the braid, then passed twice through the braid as shown in the illustration, and worked in rows backward and forward as follows: 1 point de Bruxelles stitch, then before proceeding to the next stitch, pass the needle under the knot, over the thread, and again under it, as shown in the illustration. This stitch is very quickly worked.
No. 12. Point de Fillet (Net Groundwork Stitch).
No. 13.—Point de Reprise.
No. 13.—Point de Reprise.—This stitch is worked by darning over and under two threads forming a triangle. The space is filled by parallel and crosswise bars placed at equal distances, and on the triangles thus produced point de reprise is worked.
No. 14.—Point Turque, or Turkish Point.—This easy and effective stitch is very appropriate for filling either large or small spaces; the thread employed should be varied in thickness according to the size of the space to be filled.
First row.—Work a loop into the braid, bringing the thread from right to left, passing the needle through the twist and through the loop (see engraving), draw up tight and repeat.
Second row.—1 straight thread from right to left.
Third row.—Work the same as first, using the straight thread in place of the braid, and passing the needle through the loop of the previous row, as shown in the illustration.
No. 14.—Point Turque (Turkish Stitch).
No. 15.—Treble Point d'Espagne.—This stitch is worked in exactly the same way as the open and close varieties just mentioned, as follows: 3 close stitches, 1 open, 3 close to the end of each row. Sew back, and in the next row make 1 open, 3 close, 1 open, 3 close to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary, taking care that the close and open stitches follow in regular order. Diamonds, stars, squares, blocks and various other pretty patterns may be formed with this stitch.
No. 15.—Treble Point d'Espagne.
No. 16.—Point d'Espagne. (Close.)
No. 16.—Point d'Espagne (Close).—This stitch is worked like open point d'Espagne (see No. 9, page 10) but so closely as to only allow the needle to pass through in the next row. It is also worked from left to right, and is fastened to the braid at the end of each row.
No. 17.—Point de Grecque or Grecian Point.—Point de Grecque is made from left to right, and is worked backward and forward. It is begun by 1 stitch in loose point de Bruxelles and followed by 3 of close point d'Espagne; then 1 Bruxelles, 3 point d'Espagne, to the end of the row; in returning work in the same manner.
No. 17.—Point de Grecque (Grecian Point).
No. 18.—Point de Cordova.
No. 18.—Point de Cordova.—This stitch is useful as a variation, and resembles the point de reprise of Guipure lace making. It is worked in a similar manner, over and under the sides of squares formed by intersecting straight lines of the thread.
No. 19.—Point d'Alençon, with Twisted Stitch.—This stitch is used to fill in narrow spaces where great lightness of effect is desired, and is usually seen along the sides of insertions and the tops of edgings. Plain point d'Alençon is worked over and under in bars in a sort of herring-bone pattern, and a twisted stitch is made as seen in the engraving, by twisting the thread three times around each bar and knotting it at the angles as pictured. The effect is similar to one of the drawn-work hem-stitches.
No. 19.—Point d'Alençon, with Twisted Thread.
No. 20.—Point d'Angleterre.
No. 20.—Point d'Angleterre.—This lace is worked as follows: Cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread about an eighth of an inch apart, then form cross-lines, intersecting those already made and passing alternately under and over them; work a rosette on every spot where two lines cross by working over and under the two lines about 16 times round; then twist the thread twice round the ground-work thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing threads.
No. 21.—Point de Fillet and Point de Reprise.—The net-work seen in this engraving is the first stitch mentioned, while the block-work is the second. Both are clearly illustrated and need no written explanation of the methods employed in making them.
No. 21.—Point de Fillet And Point de Reprise.
No. 22.—Point de Tulle.
No. 22.—Point de Tulle.—This stitch is used as a ground-work for very fine work, and is worked in rows backward and forward in the same stitch as open point d' Espagne. When this is completed the work is gone over a second time by inserting the needle under one twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at + and bringing it out again at the dot. This produces a close double twist which is very effective.
No. 23. Fan Lace Stitch.—Commence at the right side, and work as follows:
First row.—Make 1 button-hole stitch and miss the space of 8, which will leave a long loop.
Second row.—Make 8 button-hole stitches in each loop.
Third row.—Make 7 stitches into the spaces between the 8, and so decrease one in every row until only one remains, as may be seen by referring to the illustration.
No. 23.—Fan Lace Stitch.
No. 24.—Rose Point Lace Stitch.
No. 24.—Rose Point Lace Stitch.—Make a foundation of single threads, crossing them to form the large squares. Work a button-hole stitch at each crossing to make it firm. Now begin at the top, at the right side and fill the first square with Brussels net stitches, finishing at the lower left corner. Fill every alternate square in the same way as seen in the picture.
Now cross the open squares diagonally with two threads, twisting each thread around the adjoining one as represented. (Carry one thread across all the squares from corner to corner first, then twist back, fastening at the corner started from; cross these threads in the same way from the opposite direction). When twisting the thread back from the last set of crossings, make a rosette at each center crossing as follows: Keep the space open with a pin and trace round it with a darning movement five or six times; commence at the single thread and work a close button-hole stitch over the tracing entirely around, and then twist along the single thread to the center of the next square. This is a very effective design for spaces.