WHEELS AND ROSETTES.
Wheels and rosettes are used to fill up spaces, or in combination, to form lace.
No. 25.—Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre.—This rosette is worked in a manner similar to the English wheel, the difference being that after each stitch is passed round and under the bars, the thread is passed loosely around in the reverse direction, as shown in the illustration, before proceeding to make the next stitch.
No. 25.—Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre.
No. 26.—Mechlin Lace Wheels.—This is one of the prettiest stitches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to work correctly. It is made thus: Work a number of diagonal bars in button-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction, then begin at the opposite side in the same way, and work 5 or 6 stitches past the spot where the two lines cross; pass the thread round the cross twice, under and over the thread to form a circle. Work in button-hole stitch half of one-quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of drawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop held open by the pin, then take the pin out and continue as before. Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on the wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and parallel lines of thread.
No. 26.—Mechlin Lace Wheels.
No. 27.—English Wheel.
No. 27.—English Wheel.—This is worked in the same manner as Sorrento wheels, but instead of winding the thread over and under the bars, the needle is inserted under each bar, and brought out again between the thread and the last stitch; this produces a kind of button-hole stitch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel.
Nos. 28 and 30.—Sorrento Wheel.—This is worked by fastening the thread in the pattern to be filled up, as indicated by the letters. Fasten it first to the place a, then at place b, carrying it back to the middle of the first formed bar by winding it round; fasten again at c, carrying it back again to the center by winding it around the bar, and so on to all the letters; then work over and under the bars thus formed.
No. 28.—Sorrento Wheel.
No. 30.—Sorrento Wheel.
No. 29.—Close English Wheels.—These wheels may be used in open spaces and may be very easily made from the engraving. They are much like the wheels used in drawn work—indeed, many of the stitches used in lace are identical with those used in drawn-work.
No. 29.—Close English Wheels.
BARS AND PICOTS.
The word "Bar" is applied to the many stitches used to connect the various parts of point lace, and the beauty of the work depends greatly upon the class of bar selected and its suitability to the lace stitches used.
Nos. 31 and 32.—Raleigh Bars.—These bars are much used in making Battenburg lace and are very effective. They are worked over a foundation or net-work of coarse thread, and are twisted in places so that they will more easily fall into the desired form.
By following the numbering from 1 to 21, in No. 31, a square place may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to form ground-work of any shape desired. Upon this ground-work tight point de Bruxelles stitches are made, and the dot worked upon these in one of the following ways:
No. 31.—Net-work for Working Raleigh Bars.
Dot or Picot.—First Method.—Make 5 tight point de Bruxelles stitches, 1 loose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over the thread, as shown in point de Venise bars at No. 47, on page 18, and draw up, leaving a small, open loop as in tatting. Work 5 tight point de Bruxelles stitches, and repeat.
Second Method.—Proceed as above directed, but instead of continuing the tight stitches, work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus formed and repeat.
No. 32.—Raleigh Bars.
Third Method.—Work 4 tight point de Bruxelles stitches; 1 loose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread three or four times round the point (see No. 48, page 18), press the thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and thread through the twists. This is a quick mode of making the picot, and imitates most closely the real Spanish lace.
Illustration No. 48 shows how this stitch may also be applied as a regular ground-work, but the beauty of old point ground-work bars consists of variety in form.
No. 33.—Italian Ground Stitch.—Commence at the left side, and work as follows:
First row.—Make a loose button-hole stitch to form a loop a quarter of an inch wide, and then make a plain stitch into the loop to twist it, and continue to the end.
Second row.—Make two plain stitches into each loop, working back to the left.
Third row.—Repeat first row.
No. 33.—Italian Ground Stitch.
No. 34.—Open Lace Bars.
No. 34.—Open Lace Bars.—Pass a thread from right to left. Make it firm by working a second stitch into the braid; work 2 button-hole stitches on this line of thread, close together. Then work 1 button-hole stitch on the lower thread at the left hand side, and draw it close to the 2 stitches on the line of thread. Miss the space of 2 and repeat.
Nos. 35 and 36.—Sorrento Bars.—Each of the bars is worked from right to left, a straight thread being carried across and fastened securely with a stitch. The return consists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread; three of these bars are usually placed close together at equal distances between the groups. The thread is sewn carefully over the braid in passing from one spot to another.
No. 35.—Sorrento Bars.
No. 36.—Sorrento Bars.
Nos. 37 and 38.—Venetian Bars.—The bar at No. 37 is so simple that it really needs no description. It is worked over two straight threads in reverse button-hole stitch. No. 38 shows the Venetian bar used as the veining of a leaf and worked upon Sorrento bars.
No. 37.—Venetian Bars.
No. 38.—Venetian Bars.
No. 39.—Point d'Anvers Bars.—Two upright bars form the foundation. The thread is carried over and under them as seen in the engraving, the side loops being added by the method depicted at the top of the point.
The over and under work in point d'Anvers bars, without the side loops, is often used for plain bars for filling in odd spaces or wheels in heavy lace.
No. 39.—Point d'Anvers Bars.
No. 40.—Point Grecque Bars.
No. 40.—Point Grecque Bars.—These bars are so simply made that they are great favorites with beginners. They are begun at the top of the point, one straight thread being carried to the bottom; then the cross bars are worked after the method seen in the illustration.
No. 41.—Bars of Point d'Angleterre.—These bars may be worked singly or to fill up a space, as in the illustration. Work rosettes as in point d'Angleterre; when each rosette is finished twist the thread up the foundation thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then pass it under the parallel line running through the center and over into the opposite braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the threads as seen in the illustration.
No. 41.—Bars of Point d'Angleterre.
No. 42.—Point de Venise Bars (Edged).—Begin at the right hand and stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid, fastening it with one tight stitch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this line work a succession of tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then in every third stitch work one point de Venise stitch.
No. 42.—Point de Venise Bars (Edged).
No. 43.—d'Alençon And Sorrento Bars.
No. 43.—d'Alençon and Sorrento Bars.—At Nos. 35 and 36 (page 16), a description of the method of making Sorrento bars is given, while at No. 19 (page 12), is a description of plain and fancy d'Alençon stitches. The two methods are combined in the work seen at No. 43 where the process is so clearly illustrated that a mere novice in lace-work could not fail to produce it perfectly. The combined stitch is used in filling in spaces, etc., etc.
No. 44.—Picot Or Dot on Sorrento Bar.—This dot is worked between rows of point de Bruxelles, 3 twisted stitches being worked into the loop left by the twisted thread; this forms a picot resembling satin stitch in appearance.
No. 44.—Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar.
No. 45.—d'Alençon Bars.—These bars are worked upon point de Bruxelles edging, and are only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being used as ground-work bars. The thread is merely passed three times over and under the point de Bruxelles stitches, the length of these bars being regulated by the space to be filled; when the third bar is completed a tight point de Bruxelles stitch fastens off the bars, and the thread is passed through the next point de Bruxelles stitch.
No. 45.—d'Alençon Bars.
No. 46.—Plain Venetian Bars.
No. 46.—Plain Venetian Bars.—These bars are worked so as to form squares, triangles, etc., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread.
The arrow in the illustration points to the direction for working the next stitch.
No. 47.—Dotted Point de Venise Bars.—These pretty bars are worked as follows: Stretch the thread from right to left; on this work 5 tight stitches of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last stitch to hold it open and loose, pass the needle under the loose stitch and over the thread, as clearly shown in the illustration, and in this loop work 3 tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then work 5 more stitches and repeat to end of row.
No. 47.—Dotted Point de Venise Bars.
No. 48.—Third Method of Making Picots or Dots.
The making of the dots or purls before mentioned as picots, is an important feature in bar work. All three names are employed for the same class of stitch.
No. 48.—Third Method of Making Picots Or Dots.—This method has been fully described in connection with the making of Raleigh Bars at Nos. 31 and 32 (page 15), and requires no further description at this point. All dots and picots render work much more effective, and may be introduced at will by the worker.
In making modern lace, the various kinds require appropriate braids. There are three classes of these braids—those for Battenburg lace, those for plain Honiton and point, and those for the newest kind of lace, which is called the "Ideal Honiton." Each class of braids contains many designs and widths, and a large number of them, together with various cords, buttons and rings also used are illustrated on following pages.