MOUNTING PICTURES FOR THE PRIZE COMPETITION.
Although directions for mounting prints have been given in this column, still a few extra hints may not come amiss to our competitors.
The mounting of pictures has a great deal to do with their artistic finish, and as technical excellence is one of the points on which the prize pictures are to be marked, of course the mounting of the pictures is included in this term.
There are many styles of card-mounts, and in selecting a mount be sure that the color of the card harmonizes with the color of the print. Do not use a gray mount for pictures with warm brown tones. A creamy-white is the color that is best adapted to most prints. A very attractive card-mount is what is called a "plate-sunk" mount. The card has a depression in the centre a little larger than the print to be mounted, and has the effect of a frame. This card is of heavy board and rather expensive, yet it pays to buy a good card-mount for prize competition pictures.
Never mount a print on a card only a trifle larger than the print. The picture should have at least an inch-wide margin all round. A 4 x 5 print should be mounted on a 6 x 8 card, and larger prints on correspondingly larger cards. Do not use what is called a 4 x 5 card-mount for a 4 x 5 picture. If you have never used a larger mount than one which just fits the picture try an unmounted print on a large sheet of plain paper, and see how much the picture gains in beauty by having a wider margin to the mount.
A nice way to mount prints for exhibition is to first mount the print on a plain card, and then place a mat over it of rough water-color paper, or such paper as is used to mat pictures. In using a mat do not trim the photograph; mount it in the centre of the card, and then place the mat over it.
Mount your pictures in as neat and attractive manner as possible, and see if it does not raise your standard of "technical excellence."
Sir Knight Fred. P. Moore asks if there is any way to fix a defective plate that has holes or scratches on the film; if chemicals can be bought at drug stores, and are they cheaper or dearer than those bought of the photograph dealers; and would also like the formula for paste given over again. A negative that has scratches in the film can have the holes or scratches filled up in this way: apply retouching fluid to the spots in manner directed on bottle. When it is dry take a soft lead-pencil and mark or pencil out the spots, filling them with the soft lead. Be careful not to mark any place except where the holes and scratches are, as all such marks will show in the print. It is best to experiment with a spoiled negative first before attempting to retouch a good plate. A little practice and a steady hand will soon enable an amateur to retouch the spots in his negatives so that the print will show a perfect picture. It is much cheaper to buy photographic chemicals at the regular dealers; for instance, I bought 5 grs. of ferricyanide of potassium at the druggist last week for which I paid ten cents, and a few days later bought an ounce at the dealers in photographic goods for which I paid ten cents. Druggists keep good chemicals, but they charge more for them. The formula for paste is as follows: 1 oz. best arrowroot, 40 grs. sheet gelatine, 1/2 oz. methylated spirits, 3 drops of carbolic acid. Mix the arrowroot with 1 oz. of water, then add 7 oz. of water and the gelatine broken in bits. Boil for five minutes, stirring all the time, and when nearly cold stir in the spirits slowly, and then the acid. Keep tightly corked, and when wanted for use take out a little and rub smooth with a knife.