The Mayflower, January, 1905

by Various

GENERAL CULTURE OF THE ASTER

I would like to say that a six-year old child can raise good Asters, and that they will grow in any kind of ground from a clay bank to a sand pit, or stand any kind of treatment. I can't truthfully say those things, however, for my Lady Aster is a fastidious dame. She wants plenty to eat and plenty to drink, and requires her insect foes kept at bay. Those who are not willing to do this had better let her alone. James Vick, that good old seedsman now gone to his reward, was an Aster enthusiast. His experience concisely summed up amounts to this:

Never let them flag from seed-leaf to time of full bloom. Give deep, rich ground, plenty of sunshine, and mulch with coarse manure. Stake the tall varieties so as to prevent their blowing over.

That's a good rule for those who want everything in a nutshell. It may be summed up in another way. The way to have fine Asters is to do these six things: (1) Get the best seed; (2) start in a seasonable time; (3) give rich, mellow ground; (4) never allow them to parch; (5) keep insects down; and (6) stake when necessary.

About Seed

There are many kinds of seed that may be home grown year after year and the strain suffer no deterioration. Aster seed is not one of these kinds. If they were given high culture so as to bloom their best, and only a few of the very choicest individual flowers allowed to seed, they would of course come true from seed year after year. The trouble is that home saving is generally from all the flowers as they run, culls, off-colored specimens and all. Our best Asters represent very high breeding indeed. It is well known that highly bred plants quickly run out unless kept at the same high standard. Therefore never trust to haphazard seed if you desire first class Asters. Do not depend either upon cheap seed. Choose a reliable seed house, one that takes a pride in keeping the choicest strains of all the leading flowers and has too much regard for its reputation to send out inferior seeds under some high-sounding title.

DWARF BOUQUET ASTER

Time to Start Asters

A great many people start Aster seed in the house or greenhouse as early as February. There is not only nothing gained by this—for the Aster is a late flower and does not come to its best estate before August, start it when you will—but an actual disadvantage. Like James Vick, I would emphasize the importance of never letting the plants get a check if the finest flowers are wanted. Now the Aster is not naturally a hothouse plant. It needs in its young stage plenty of fresh air. Without it, or without sufficient light, or in too warm an atmosphere, the young Aster plants become tall and spindling, or, as florists express it, are drawn. A drawn Aster invariably makes a weak, sickly plant, and never bears large or handsome flowers. Sow the seed thinly and cover lightly. They should germinate in from 5 to 7 days.

In the middle states the best growers make a practice of sowing the seeds in boxes about the last of April or first of May. Some make a couple of later sowings between that date and the first of June, sowing these in carefully prepared seed-beds in the open ground. This is to keep up a succession of flowers. So many sowings are scarcely necessary now that there are both early and late varieties to be chosen in the first place. The period of first sowing will allow for all, if kinds that flower at various times are chosen. In the Southern states a June sowing is recommended. A lath frame will keep the plants from parching.

Late Asters may be lifted for the house. It is a good plan if one wishes several of them for pot plants to sow seed of them in July, under a lath frame where they will be shaded somewhat and protected from drying winds until up and of some little size. These will come into bloom before the first Holland bulbs are ready for the window, and will remain in full beauty for several weeks. An August sowing will give late winter and early spring flowers.

Asters are easily transplanted and should never be allowed to become cramped for room, or to be grown in the shade of other plants. If carefully done, an Aster in almost full bloom can be taken up and replanted without injuring it in the least. So there is no excuse for letting them be crowded in either seed-box or seed-bed.

Preparing an Aster Bed

There is no use trying to get good Asters from plants in poor ground. They are gross feeders. They dislike sandy soil the most of all. Clay ground is better for them than sand, and loamy soil the best of all. If the soil is sandy, plant Asters so as to leave a little depression around each plant. The water will thus sink about them and more moisture be retained. Sour, undrained soils where the water stands should be raised a little above the level of the lawn, if for Asters, so that excess of water may drain off. They like moisture but not stagnant water. Whatever the character of the ground, spade it deep so that it may be mellow, and make it very rich. If the ground is to be spaded a foot deep, a 3-inch layer of rotted manure is about right to dig in. Rotted manure does not mean fresh or lumpy manure. It means that the fertilizing element shall have been rotted until ready to drop to pieces. Stable manure is too fiery. Cow manure over a year old is best. Many expert Aster growers scatter an inch of unleached hardwood ashes over the bed before it is broken up and spade it in with the manure. They claim it both suits the Aster and helps to keep off root-lice.

It is usual to plant tall or half dwarf varieties in the center of the beds, and use some of the dwarf Asters for an outside row or border. The tall kinds should stand 10 to 12 inches apart in the row. The dwarf ones about 8 inches apart. Asters make a sightly bed because of the uniform height of each class and because of their blooming at the same time.

Hot dry soil quickly spoils Asters. About July mulch them well.

Mulching and Watering

Two inches of coarse manure spread out well over their roots is the best mulch of all, as every rain washes nutrition from it down to the roots below. Chip dirt, pine needles, or grass clippings will do, or anything else that is light, yet will let the rains or waterings leach through. No one who has not actually tried it can know of the help a mulch really is to Asters. I doubt whether first-class flowers can be obtained in dry, windy countries, or in hot, sun-scorched valleys without its aid. Asters love the sun, nevertheless unless their feet are kept cool and moist they inevitably burn and wilt. A mulch keeps the ground cool, and it keeps it moist also.

I know of Asters that gained the prizes at county fairs that were regularly soaked once a week with the suds from the weekly washing. In most climates a thorough drenching of the ground once a week will promote a luxuriant growth of the plants. There is nothing gained by watering in dry weather unless the ground is mulched. Without this protection the ground will bake as hard as a brick and the plants suffer more than if no water had been given. In some sections hot dry winds prevail through August and September. This is most trying to Asters. If there is a tank, or system of water works, a good sprinkling, not only to the roots but of the foliage as well, will revive them wonderfully. Use the hose about sunset. By morning the plants will be entirely revived.

Insect Foes of Asters

The red spider and aphis have no special fondness for the Aster. They get after it when it comes in their way, as they do anything else. But the Aster has two implacable enemies that by their ravages have done more to discourage people from growing these plants than all other causes combined. These two foes are blister beetles and root lice.

Red spider bothers in hot dry weather. Water is their foe. When the familiar thin, half-dying foliage appears, grey on the under-side and showing a few fine webs underneath, there is no mistaking the signs. It is the red spider. If a hose is used in the garden, turn the water on under a full head, directing it to the under-side of the leaves where the invisible pests have their colonies. Never mind if it does bend the plants by the force of the stream. They can be straightened afterwards. Play up and down, under and all around. If well done, and the deed repeated a couple of days after, they will have been killed. If no hose is available, use a sprinkler, dashing the water on with all the force possible.

Aphis is the common plant louse. Some use tobacco stems as a mulch about Asters instead of manure. Tobacco factories and dealers in florist's supplies sell these at low prices, as it is the refuse material left after manufacturing tobacco for smoking and chewing. Where these can be obtained it is a sure preventative not only against aphis but almost any other insect.

Other remedies for aphis are spraying with a hard stream of water. Two or three thorough applications will finish them. Kerosene emulsion will kill them. So will insect powder if it has not become stale, and if used on a still, calm day when there is no air stirring to revive its suffocated victims.

The blister beetle or aster beetle comes along when the plants are in bloom or in bud. They are half to three-quarters of an inch long, black with grey stripes down their back. Oh! how they devour all before them! Out of the unknown they come, hordes of them. They tarry but two or three days, and leave but bare stalks behind them, every bed, every flower, and every leaf eaten off.

The remedy is to fight them.

QUILLED GERMAN ASTER

When the lytta, alias blister beetle, arrives, prepare to give a warm welcome to him and all of his kind. There are several methods of doing this. Any of them must be repeated two or three times a day, for there seem to be successive waves of the beetles. In a few days the danger is past.

My own method is to get a helper, and, taking one plant at a time, knock the beetles off and kill them with a stick. It is a joy to look upon the heaps of slain when all is done. Whenever the plant upon which it is is jarred in the slightest, this beetle falls to the ground exactly as though it were dead. Only for a second, however, then it runs for dear life. That is why it takes more than one person, for it's no child's play to kill a score of scampering bugs in a quarter of a minute.

My other half's way is to get a fresh supply of insect powder (Dalmation, Persian, Bubach, etc., whatever name it may be sold under) and squirt it thickly over the bugs by the use of one of those 10-cent powder guns that all druggists keep. It is effective if the insect powder is fresh.

Other remedies are to put netting over the bed; to spray the plants with poisoned water, made by stirring 1 teaspoonful of Paris green into 2 gallons of water; and to use kerosene emulsion. The last is made after this formula: 1 tablespoonful of kerosene beaten up with half a cupful of milk. Dilute with 2 gallons of water.

Do not forget that any remedy must be used two or three times a day while the raid is on.

Root-lice, blue aphis, etc., is one of the most common enemies of the Aster. When the plants are almost at their best the tops turn a peculiar sickly green, or they wilt, or become brown. They die quickly unless something is at once done. Pull one up and the roots are found alive with a little insect that looks like a plant louse. Insecticides poured on the soil rarely kill the pests. A bed that has been ashed, or had a mulching of tobacco stems, as has already been advised, will have escaped.

Where the root lice have already commenced, Rexford recommends drawing the dirt away until the roots are exposed, then sifting tobacco dust thickly over them replacing the soil afterwards. Others recommend flooding the bed with kerosene emulsion in the same way. While some have success, others claim failure by either of these methods. Here is a way of dealing with root lice, however, that is always sure.

Heat a lot of water. Then pull up every affected plant, shake the dirt off their roots, and dip them quickly into scalding water. Leave them in but a second, but dip their roots two or three times to make sure every bug gets its dose. Pour boiling water into the ground where the Asters had been. That settles the fate of every root-louse in the ground. As soon as the ground has cooled a little, plant the Asters back, stake them so as to hold them up, and shade lightly for a day or two.

Will it not kill the plants? No, it will not injure them. Of course the plants should have been taken up very carefully so as not to break off the roots. The Aster will stand more in the way of lifting than any other plant I know. Mature plants may be washed out by the roots in a severe storm, but if promptly planted again will be all right in a day or two after. I know a lady who had to move some distance in August. She had a fine bed of Asters. She made the ground soaking wet, then took them every one up, putting them as close as they would stand in ordinary soap boxes. They never minded the transfer in the least, and bloomed so handsomely in their boxes as to call forth many compliments. I give these instances to convince doubting Thomases that pulling up Asters and scalding the root-lice on them is not so desperate a remedy as it sounds. And it is a sure remedy.

Other Cultural Rules

Until it is time to mulch Asters, stir the ground, or hoe the bed once a week. In some climates, particularly in warm ones, tall Asters sometimes take on a tall, thin growth. These leggy plants are not beautiful, nor do they bear many flowers. Whenever plants show a disposition to run up this way, pinch out the tops. Repeat the pinching two or three times if necessary, until a disposition to branch shows itself.

The tall sorts are the better for a support. Otherwise hard winds uproot them. Stakes should be used that when driven will be about two-thirds the height of the plants. Tie with soft string, with a sort of a slip-knot so that a half dozen of the main branches have a band supporting them, yet are not drawn up so hard and tight as to cut into the branch.

If a display of Asters are wanted for a flower show make the ground as wet as mud. Then lift each plant with a spade or mattock slowly and skillfully. The roots, dirt and all, will come up in a solid mass. Pot at once, before any of the earth is shaken off. They will not wither in the least if kept out of direct sunshine for a few days. If enormous blooms are wanted, disbud, leaving but one bud to each tip. Trim off the small side branches also, to throw the strength of the plant into these chosen blooms. Most people prefer more flowers and less size.

There are generally a few promising late Asters that are not yet in bloom when frosts come. Lift these in the same careful manner for the house. They do not do well in hot rooms. In cool rooms, not above 60 to 65 degrees by day, they thrive. They like some sunshine, but will get along with little of it if they have good light beside. They do finely in halls and bedrooms where the temperature is almost to the frost line at night, and no fire heat at all during the day. An Aster will not bloom all winter. Its period of bloom is quite long enough, however, to make it a welcome guest in the plant window, and when through blooming it can be thrown away.