Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries

by William Griffith

CHAPTER XV.

Candahar to Cabul.

The good old Moolla of a mosque, to which we resort daily, gives me the following information about the vegetable products of this country, from which it would seem, that every thing not producing food, is looked upon with contempt. The fruit trees, are—

1. Sha-aloo, Aloo-bookhara, (damson), which has ripe fruit in August, the same time as figs; Zurd-aloo, (apricot), Aloocha—apricot, Shuft-aloo, another kind of apricot; Unar, (pomegranate); Ungoor, (grapes); Unjeer, (guava); Bihee, (figs); Umroot, Toot, (mulberry); Aloogoordaigoo, Shuft-aloo, all these Aloos being Pomaceous.

The Elæagnus is called Sinjit: it produces a small red fruit, used in medicine as an astringent, it ripens in August, and sells at eight or nine seers the rupee; it is exported in small quantities; but the plant is not much esteemed.

The Munjit is an article of much consequence; it is exported chiefly to China and Bombay, some goes to Persia; the roots are occasionally dug up after two years, but the better practise is to allow them five to seven: the price is six Hindostanee maunds for a rupee. The herb is used for camel fodder. The Affghan name is Dlwurrung.

The common Artemisia of this place is called Turk; the camels are not so fond of it, as they were of the Sinab and Quettah sort; perhaps this is due to their preferring Joussa, which is found in abundance.

The carrot is called Zurduk; it is dug in the cold months, and sown in July; three seers are sold for a pice: both men and cattle use it.

Turbooj, (watermelon,) ripens in June; it is not watered after springing up; four seers are sold for a pice. But I have not seen much of this fruit.

The wheat is watered according to the quality of the soil, the better the soil the less water is required, and this varies from four to eight repetitions of water. Jhow requires two waterings less. Wheat is considered dear if less than one maund is sold for the rupee. One year ago, three maunds of barley, and four of wheat were sold for a rupee.

Iris odora, Soosumbur; (the two kinds, and Datura has the same name) is indigenous.

The timber trees, or rather trees not producing fruit, and which the Moolla thinks very lightly of, are the Chenar, (plane), Pudda, (Poplar?), Baid, Sofaida.

The fig trees are often planted in rows, they are very umbrageous, and look very healthy. These, and the mulberry, are the most common; next are the bullace and damson. Neither are worth introducing to India, nor have I seen any thing yet in the country that is so.

It is certainly the interest of the inhabitants to keep the army here as long as our commissariat places so many rupees in their hands. It may indeed be questionable whether with an overpowering army, the rates paid for grain and other supplies for the troops should not be established by authority rather than advancing money for grain at exorbitant rates, when the crops are entirely within the command of foraging parties. Atta now sells at two and three-quarter seers the rupee, a mere nominal fall, for the dealers will only give fifteen annas for a Company’s rupee.

There is a curious hazy appearance of the atmosphere over the city in the evening, occasioned by fine dusty particles from cattle, suspended in air; which, from their fineness, are long in subsiding.

This curious hazy weather increases daily, yesterday evening was very cloudy, and this morning the wind rather strong and southerly up to 8 A.M.: and at 5½ P.M. the sun is either quite obscured, or the light so diminished, that the eye rests without inconvenience on his image. In the morning the wind strengthens as the sun attains height and power.

The old Moolla says that this weather commences in Khorassan with the setting in of the periodical rains in the north-western provinces of India, and continues with them. From the direction of the wind it is probably connected with the commencement of the south-west monsoon at Bombay, for the rains at Delhi do not commence before June.

The haze is so strong at times that hills within three to five miles are quite obscured; it tends to diminish the temperature considerably, especially between seven and eight of a morning; curious gusts of hot winds are observed, even when the general nature of the wind is cool.

21st.—A fine and clear cold morning; thermometer 56° at 7 A.M. in the tent. Air fresh; thermometer 75° at 9 P.M. A few drops of rain at 12; cloudy generally.

22nd.—Thermometer 48° at 5 A.M. Similar weather, clear and elastic: south winds continue but of less strength.

Easterly wind prevails in the morning up to 9 A.M., after which hour the westerly hot wind, variable in strength, sets in: the range of the thermometer is then somewhat increased, although in the house it does not rise above 90°.

The Moolla tells me, that snow is of rare occurrence at Candahar; he mentions one fall in about four or five years. The rains last for three months, and happen in winter. During the winter all occupations out of doors are suspended, and people wrap themselves up, and sit over fires.

Clouds are of very rare occurrence, and then only partial.

The clouds, if resulting from the south-west monsoon, ought to be intercepted by the Paropamisus and Hindoo Koosh, and rain ought to fall along these and about Ghuznee at this time. In the evening a cool wind sets in, indicating a fall of rain somewhere.

Rarity of dews in Khorassan: as dews depend on a certain amount of moisture either in the soil or atmosphere, it follows that in a very dry climate no dews will occur. The occurrence of the dews here at this period, is another proof that rain must have fallen somewhere (to the southward), to which the coolness of the weather is attributable. Yesterday and to-day, the thermometer at 5 A.M. stood at 48°, 49°; at 8 P.M. 75°, 72°, the daily range in the mosque is from 70° to 80°. Capt. Thomson suggests that the dews observed here are either confined to, or much greater in the Chummuns, in which the water is very close to the surface, as indicated inter alia by the green turf.

The kinds of grapes are numerous; those earliest ripe are the black, and a small red kind called Roucha; which will be ripe in the latter end of this moon. Kismiss another sort, comes in July. The Tahibee is the best kind produced here, and the dearest.

Tobacco is cultivated chiefly along the Arghandab; it is planted about this season, and gathered in two or three months, and requires to be watered ten or twelve times.

The barley is now fully ripe, and is generally cut and thrashed in some places. Pears in gardens are now ripe.

Candahar valley is of great extent to the westward, or south-west and SSW.

The wasps, with large femora, I observe build their mud nests in houses. The rarity of Lepidoptera, except perhaps some nocturnal moths, is curious; Coleoptera are more common, but inconspicuous. Ants are abundant in the mud walls. A small gnat with large noiseless wings, is very annoying, and the bite very painful and irritating. Doves, and wild pigeons are tolerably common, as also crested larks, and swifts. Abundance of lizards; a venomous snake of brown colour, having an abruptly attenuated tail.

Every thing that happens shows how credulous, and how unenquiring we are; and in all cases out of our particular sphere, how extremely apt most are to give excessive credit, where a moderate only is due. It is a generous failing which it is difficult to condemn, particularly with regard to our travellers in this direction. Instance Connolly, and certainly Gerard whose acquaintance with Burnes and its results demands attention. It is singular that his name scarcely occurs in Burnes’ book, although his scientific knowledge and MSS. submitted to Government, entitle him to be considered an observant, and well-informed traveller. Pottinger is another instance of what I have said above.

The general opinion is, and it is one which I have not discarded entirely, that he threw himself into Herat, that he was throughout the siege daily employed in the front of the garrison, and that it is owing to his personal exertions that Herat was saved. I hear however on good authority that he was at Herat accidentally, and wished to leave it when the besiegers appeared, but was prevented by want of funds. So anxious was he however to get away, as his leave of absence had expired, that he was obliged to discover himself to Yar Mahommed, and request loans to enable him to rejoin India. The Vizier at once secured him, took him to Kamran, and hindered him from leaving, forcing him indeed to the dangerous elevation of British Agent at Herat. His merits, if this be true, rest on very different grounds from those generally supposed; his courage however has been proved of a high moral cast.

The Joussa, the Moolla tells me, is the Kan Shootur or Shootur Kan. Burnes’ account of the Turunjbeen or manna is correct, except perhaps in the limits he assigns to its production. It is at any rate produced here and sold in the bazar, its production while the plant is in flower is curious, and worthy of examination; it may however be deposited by an insect, in which case the probable period of its production would be that of inflorescence.

There is some cultivation of Indian corn here, the plants have now attained one-third of their growth.

Except in the immediate vicinity of the town, nothing can exceed the sterility of the valley, or rather its desolation: scarcely a plant, beyond the Peganum and Joussa, is to be found.

Khaisee, an excellent smooth skinned apricot, is now ripe, and is of light yellowish colour, sometimes faintly spotted; it is a product from grafts, the seeds are useless, as they do not continue the good qualities of the fruit: it is here grafted on zurd-aloo, thulk, Potentilla quinquefolia.

Melons and grapes are now coming in; the former, at least those I have seen, have pale pulp, and are not superior. The grapes first ripe are the ordinary black sort: we tasted yesterday some very good ones in the Moolla’s garden. The Kismiss are especially delicate, and another large sort of very fine rich flavour, both were rather unripe. Those for packing are still unripe. The trenches in this garden are very deep: the vines are planted on the northern face only.

Gardens are very common to the south-west of the town. The valley of the Arghandab is the most fertile part of Khorassan I have yet seen. A strip of cultivation extends along the banks of the river, and from these last not being high, the stream is easily diverted into channels for irrigation. Seen from any of the neighbouring hills, the valley presents one uniform belt of verdure, almost as far as the eye can reach, and the view up and down is of some extent. The chief cultivation is wheat, barley, and lucerne; Chummuns also occur. Gardens abound, together with fine groves of mulberry trees, the former are walled in, and are verdant to a degree.

There is a bluff mountain to the north of Candahar, the disintegration of which is so rapid, that it is evident from the slope of the debris, it will in time bury the original structures.

The hills forming the ridge separating Arghandab from Candahar, as well as all those rugged looking ones about Candahar, are of limestone, they are much worn by the weather, and full of holes. They are very barren, the only shrubby vegetation of any size being Ficus, which may be the stock of the Ungoor, as it resembles it a good deal, Centaurea spinosa, Pæderiæ 2, Echinops, Pommereulla, one to two, other Graminæ, lemon-grass, Dianthus, Peganum, Cheiranthus as before, Sedum rosaceum, Gnaphalium, Hyoceyamus, Didymocarpeæ, Gnidia, etc.

The Arghandab is a good sized river, with channel subdivided: its stream is rapid and fordable; no large boulders occur in its bed; the temperature of its water is moderate.

The fish are a Cyprinus and a Barbus, or Oreinus with small scales, thick leathery mouth, and cirrhi; a Loach of largish size, flat head, reddish, with conspicuous brownish mottlings, and a Silurus.

The hills forming the northern boundary of the valley are picturesque, and of several series, and perhaps the subordinate valleys are not so large and fruitful in this direction.

Between Arghandab and Candahar, two ranges occur; one interrupted: the other nearer Candahar has first to be surmounted at a low pass; the pass is short, rugged and impassable for guns. The inner ridge is much closer to the cultivated part of the valley than the northern range.

Between it and the Arghandab, at least six cuts occur: these are met with generally in threes, and are at different elevations; the inner one being close at the foot of the hills; great labour must have been required to make them. Numerous villages, some with flat roofed houses occur.

Arundo, Salsola, Plantago, P. coronopoid, Cnicus, Juncus, Veronica exallata, Santalacea, Mentha, Lactucoides, Chenopod. 2-3, Panicum, Samolus, Ceratophyllum; Salix occurs near the river; apricots, apples, pomegranates, damsons or plums, bullaces, pears, mulberries and raspberries in the gardens.

The shingle found about all the hills in Khorassan, can scarcely be derived from any source but disintegration, it slopes too gradually and uniformly for upheavement. If my idea is correct, the mountains will at some period be buried in their own debris, of course inspection of the shingle will at once point out whether this is true or not, more especially in all those places where the rocks are of uniform structure. There is a curious desert to the south and southwest of Candahar, elevated a good deal above the valley, quite bare, and stretching a long way to the westward: it is seen for forty miles along the Girishk road.

Curious reflection.—Observed in ghee used as lamp-oil, a bubble ascending from the surface of the water on which it floated, met by another descending; the deception of this is perfect. That it is due to reflection, is apparent from the variation of the length of the descent, according to the angle under which it is viewed. When viewed from beneath at a very oblique angle, the descent is complete, but if viewed parallel to the surface, no appearance of the sort occurs. The reflection is due to the surface of the ghee which appears to be more dense than the rest, probably more oily; this mathematical reflection may suggest others of a moral nature, touching our liability to mistaken views of things, from observing only one side.

Old Candahar is about three miles to west of the new town; it is immediately under a steep limestone range, running about southwest, and not exceeding 500 feet in height. It bears marks of having been fortified, and at either extremity remains of forts are still visible. The fort of forty steps is at the north end of the range. The town is in complete ruins; indeed none of the edifices are visible except those that occupy the mound of stones, (with which they are partly built) probably the site of the citadel. On three sides, the town is fenced by two respectable ditches, the outer one about 50 yards wide; both are now, especially the outer, beds of marshes; they were supplied by cuts from the Arghandab river. Wells exist however. There is one white mosque in good preservation. The works were strong, and much better than the very indifferent ones of new Candahar; and the walls of the town were prolonged up the face of the hills.

About Candahar, conical houses occur, probably for granaries. A curious mosque cut out of the rock in situ, is seen on the Girishk road, with a flight of steps leading to it, cut in like manner out of the rock. There is also in the same quarter the fort of Chuhulzeenat, or forty steps; a work not of very considerable extent; and as in other Asiatic countries I have visited, troughs are cut in rocks for separating grain from the husk. But there is no work to be seen indicating vast labour or any genius.

Some remains of good pottery may be picked up; and the earth of which the works, etc. were made, is filled with remains of coarse pottery.

27th.—Moved four miles to Shorundab, the country is very barren: not much Joussa: the water is brackish at our present encampment, which is within sight of Babawallee.

28th.—Proceeded to Kileeyazim, ten and a quarter miles, marched at 2 P.M. and reached the place at 6 P.M., the camels arriving one hour afterwards: the ground is generally good, throughout stony, difficult in places and undulated, particularly in two situations occasioned from cuts. There is a square fort, situated at the halting place with a tower at each corner, and on north face two; as well as towers at the gate: but without windows. Joussa is abundant, as also grass along the cuts. Salsola rotundifolia, a Chenopodia, and a curious prickly, leafless Composita and Joussa occur, the latter most common, Artemisiæ sp. Also rock pigeons and the raven. Halted one mile to the east of the fort.

29th.—Proceeded to the Turnuk, near Khet-i-Ahkoond, distance fifteen and a half miles. The country continues the same, no cultivation to be seen before reaching the Turnuk. The road tolerable, over gravelly or shingly ground: it was at first level, until we reached a mountain gorge, when it became undulated. Passed the dry beds of two streams, the second the larger: its banks were clothed with Vitex instead of Tamarisk. At the entrance of gorge a fort similar to that of yesterday was passed. Scarcely any change in vegetation. Artemisiæ one or two, Centaurea spinosa, Salsola cordifolia and aphylla? are the most common plants, Euonymus and Malpighiacea? Polygonoides, occurred along the nullah, a pretty species of the plant, Antheris globosis petaloideo-terminalis, in profusion in some places, literally colouring the ground: close to it another very distinct species, foliis connatis, floribus albis, a Rubiaceous crystalline looking plant, another novelty; all the plants about the hills at Candahar continue: Dianthoid, Statice, Pæderia villosa. Cultivation along the Turnuk, melons in small trenches, the crops are now cut, Jhow or gaz along the bank: but there is not much water. The hills around are apparently of limestone, very picturesque, and presenting very fine cliffs. The valley of the Turnuk is here very narrow, and the country very arid looking, completely burnt up. Joussa rather scarce, doob grass occurs along the river, the water of which is discoloured.

30th.—Proceeded to Shair-i-Suffa, ten miles and six furlongs. The country continues the same. The road extending along the right bank of the Turnuk, over undulating ground for one and a half or two miles, is bad, very narrow, and overhanging the steep bank of the river, scarcely passable for wheel carriages without preparation. Vegetation continues precisely the same: little verdure to be seen even along the Turnuk: the hills desperately barren; a high mound occurs in middle of the valley near our halting place, well adapted for a fort, but unoccupied. Small fields of cultivation are now seen. A small species of mullet occurs in the river: thermometer 101° at 1 P.M. in the tent.

Nothing can exceed the barren aspect of this valley, which is near Khet-i-Ahkoond, but at several miles distance, a few trees are visible in nooks: the only green along the banks of the river, is occasioned apparently by Tamarisk: the hills are picturesque, rugged, varied with bold cliffs, the valleys are changed in structure, being now occupied by rounded undulated ground, instead of hollow basins.

July 1st.—Proceeded ten miles, and halted on the Turnuk within one mile of the tower of Tirandaz. The country continues precisely the same: the road at first is bad, owing to the inhabitants having tried to flood it. At a distance of six miles we ascended a small defile without any difficulty; the remainder of the march being over undulating stony ground: the valley then becomes narrow, and we again enter into the arable part, which is especially narrow. The hills present the same aspect. Joussa very abundant, and also Artemisia, and a Salsoloides flore ochroleuco. No villages are visible. We are unable to judge of the extent of cultivation, because the country, which seems uniformly dried up, is rugged and bouldery: on the right is the old bed of the river, consisting of dry sand. We crossed one small nullah, when an old fort became visible on a hill, in the centre of the valley.

2nd.—Proceeded to Toot, a distance of eleven miles, through a similar country; the road dividing at the low hills approaching the river and forming its banks, which are in places precipitous; the greater part of the difficulties were avoided by taking the lower route, that along the hills being impassable for guns owing to the large rocks scattered in every direction, and detached from conglomerate hills. Two or three nullahs were passed, one with a little water. The ground was besides a good deal cut up towards the centre of the valley, and a water-cut was crossed several times. Owing to the delay in making the road, the troops did not reach the encamping ground before 8 or 8½ P.M., the camels in some instances not before 12 P.M. An attack is reported to have been made on the baggage at the river where the road ascends the cliff: it was prevented by a party of the 13th, who shot two of the marauders. Joussa is plentiful, and Mentha in flower.

The Turnuk river is 20 feet broad, the current rapid, and the water discoloured; the banks are sandy, 15 feet high: coarse grass, Clematis scandens fol. ternatisectis pinnatis. Jhow is abundant.

3rd.—From Toot to ----, nine miles and four furlongs. Road decent, over the usual sort of ground, except in one place, where the bank approaches the river; this defile is much shorter and much easier than that at Tirandaz or rather Jillongeer: a small river with a little water is crossed: here the road for a very short distance bends suddenly to a little west of north, but having crossed a narrow and deep ravine-like cut, resumes its original direction. The country continues precisely the same, the valley however becomes narrow and more undulating, while the peculiar limestone ranges appear to be fewer. Reached the encamping ground in very good time, the vegetation almost precisely the same as before, but with some willow trees. Many of the ravines are however, actually covered with thickets, apparently of the prickly yellow flowered Dioica shrub of Chummun; trees and these shrubs occupied by thousands of a hymenopterous insect or fly. Joussa very abundant: a village, the lights of one were visible en route. The water of the Turnuk is still very much discoloured, its bed shingly, and the ground near it much cut up: a mill was passed on the river; the valley here not being 500 yards wide: the climate is more agreeable, though still very hot in the middle of the day; in the shade, the air continues pleasant up to 10 A.M. Thunder not heavy, was succeeded by a squall from the ENE.; little rain fell, but there were clouds of dust.

4th.—Reached Khilat-i-Gilzee, distance thirteen and a half miles, from our last encampment, direction NE. by E. as before: the aspect of the country is unchanged, the road became somewhat difficult about one and a half mile from camp, where a defile exists along the hills forming the bank of the river; it was however much easier than that of Botee. Thence we continued over undulating ground, leaving the Turnuk river to the right, but reverting to it beyond the fort. Half-way the deep and steep channel of a river presented a serious obstacle; the country gradually rises until Khilat-i-Gilzee fort is passed, from thence it descends somewhat. At this place there is a considerable expanse of irregular valleys; and to south curious low undulated ground occurs: to the south-east is a patch of table land, which is not an uncommon form in these parts; some cultivation here exists along the Turnuk, which runs half a mile below the fort, which is in ruins, occupying a hill not commanded by any near ones. This is of no great height, and has two ramifications, and in the centre the remains of a tower.

In the valley extending NNE. two villages with castles occur, together with a good many low trees. Vegetation the same: a curious Antirrhinoid plant occurs out of flower, Echinops, Carduacea, and a curious Centaurea. Wet places abound in Rumex and Tamarisk along the river. Horsemen were seen after passing the fort: two or three willow trees about the villages. Jhow or barley is selling for ten seers the rupee, atta or flour at eight.

5th.—Khilat-i-Gilzee is a very uninteresting place, with little appearance of cultivation. The vegetation of the undulated ground continues the same, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthemoides, remains of Tauschia, and the former Cruciferæ. The Turnuk discharges a good deal of water much discoloured, and forming a series of constant rapids. The most common plants are Artemisiæ two or three species, Centaurea spinosa, Salsola luteiflora, Almond groves, Iris crocifolia? vel sp. affinis, Asphodelus, Mesemb., Salvioides, Thermopsis, Cichorium, Joussa, and Mentha recur, the two last in abundance. The new plants are a Chenopodium, Polygonum, Lotoides, Triticum, Astragalus, Scirpus, Cæsalpinioides, Centaurea micrantha, and Eryngioides: a spring occurs in the old fort of Khilat-i-Gilzee.

Indian-corn is just sprouting up, barley and other crops ripe. Latitude of Khilat-i-Gilzee 32° 7' 30"; altitude, Bar. 24.740: the climate is disagreeable from the violent sudden extremes to which it is exposed. West winds during day, and east winds of a morning.

6th.—Proceeded to Sir Tasp, ten miles, north-east, road good over an open undulating country, the only difficulty in the way arising from a cut with deep holes in it. Vegetation continues precisely the same: limestone hills less frequent, or at any rate much less rugged, and the country assumes a much more open character. Artemisia most abundant, of large size, Cæsalpinia, Euonymus dioica, Centaurea spinosa, Echinops, new plants two Linariæ, Eryngium, Verbascum. Altitude 24.505, latitude 32° 12' 22" north. Atta has risen in price to seven seers a rupee.

7th.—Arrived at Nooroock after a march of nine miles; still extending up the valley in a direction north-east—direct on the star Capella. The country is undulated; vegetation still the same. Artemisia most abundant and of a larger size; road good: no fodder for horses, except along the river: the valley open, distant hills on either side with a fine range to the north of the camp, apparently composed of limestone, with abundance of junipers, and the Iris of Dund-i-Golai very common. Hares, rock pigeons, Alauda. Myriads of Cicada, and the Jerboa rat. The Turnuk river is again occasionally in sight, valley apparently little cultivated. Stipa very common, as well as Iris, Festuca vivipara, Astragali sp., and Artemisia. Cloudy evening, followed by a stormy night; wind southerly.

8th.—Reached Tazee, eight miles seven furlongs from Nooroock: direction still the same, no change: the road good, extending over an undulated country, except one or two small nullahs with rather steep banks. A range of mountains seen to the north, called Kohi-Soork, continue forming a long line, the southern boundary of which is broken: we are encamped opposite a valley running east, presenting much cultivation: several villages indicated by distant smoke: some trees are seen here and there: the face of the valley is rather green, indicating more water than usual. Vegetation is precisely the same; no Joussa or other fodder for camels than Artemisia and spinous Compositæ. Morning very cloudy and cold at 12 P.M. The plants met with are Chara, Naiad, Polygoni 3, Malva fl. amplis lilacinis, on banks of river.

9th.—Shuftul, five miles: the direction lay towards the star Capella: road bad, requiring to be made over three difficult ravines, all forming beds of torrents descending from the Koh-i-Soork. The country otherwise presents the same features. The Turnuk runs close under the southern boundary of the valley, and is here a pretty stream of considerable body. Joussa grows abundantly on its immediate banks, together with excellent grass and some clover, one or two new Compositæ, one of them a Matthiola, otherwise Artemisiæ, Stipa, Centaurea spinaceis herb. Astragalus, and Peganum, are the most common; Muscoides, Plantaginacea reoccur, a curious leaved Composita?

10th.—Halted yesterday, and went out along the banks of the Turnuk: where I found twenty-six species not obtained before. Some cultivation was observed, but as usual weedy, abounding with two species of Centaurea. In ditches two species of Epilobium, Sparganium, Mentha, Polygonum natans, Ranunculus aquaticus, Lotus, Carex, Astragaloid on swards, on the sandy moist banks of the Turnuk: Epilobium, two Veronicæ, several Cyperaceæ, 2 or 3 Junci, Cyperus fuscus. Alisma abundant in swamps: small partridges: no chakor: hares, swifts, rock-pigeons. Springs of beautiful clear water: temperature not changeable, 59°; two small platiceroid fishes in it; tadpoles. Temperature of the river 78°. The fish of this river are the same as those of the Arghandab, the large Cyprinus takes Cicada greedily. The vegetation of the hills is the same: Cerasus pygmæus and canus, common; the novelties were a fine Composita, Plectranthus, Ephedra in fruit, Artemisia, and Astragal., formed the chief bulk; Joussa is common on the river sides.

This place is 150 feet above the last, yet the increased elevation is not appreciable to the sight: the tents of the army at the Tazee encampment are distinctly visible. Atta sold, at eight seers yesterday, barley sixteen seers for the rupee. Where the sellers come from I know not. Atta was fifteen seers, but it was soon made eight by the approach of the army, and to-day it has risen to four and a half.

11th.—Proceeded to Chushm-i-Shadee, ten miles six furlongs, direction the same: road good, not requiring any repairs; it continues up the valley but at a greater distance from the river than before; the valley is enclosed in hills on both sides. Koh-i-Soork, the northern one, is not very high, but bold and cliffy, with very little cultivation: the country is less undulated. Chushm-i-Shadee is a beautiful spring, not deep, but extending some distance under ground; large-sized fish are found in it: apparently Ophiocephali, but only parts of their bodies can be seen. Indian-corn and madder are cultivated: a new Asteraceous flower was found. Passed a small eminence in the centre of the valley, about three miles from Chushm-i-Shadee. Joussa very abundant. Temperature of spring 59°.

12th.—Reached Chushm-i-Pinjup, six and a half miles, direction more northerly; keeping Capella a little to the right: the country is precisely the same, the road good, one or two easy ravines; one with water in it.

The valley is rather wider, soil much less shingly, and capable of cultivation; several patches of trees are visible in many directions, indicating villages. We encamped opposite the entrance or gap between the mountains forming hitherto the southern boundary, and a more lofty range is seen running parallel with them, about east and west. This range is of considerable height; presenting a peculiar slope rising almost half-way up, and very conspicuous: four forts are seen in this direction; together with several patches of trees, and a good deal of cultivation, but nothing to what might exist. Artemisia is the chief shrub; several good springs occur: clover, and good grass are both abundant for a small party; Joussa in cultivation. The mountain range to the north is very fine, and apparently of different formation from the others; here and there whitish patches occur. There is a very evident slope, which is very gradual from the northern range to the peculiar slope of the southern.

Several springs of fine water occur: the temperature of which is 60°. Fish are abundant about the mouths of these springs, which are like caves; their waters form one of the heads of the Turnuk, along them Mentha, Gramineæ 2, Plantago major, Centaurea magnispina, Compositæ, Trifolium. In the spring Polygonum natans, and P. graminifol., Chara, Cyperacæ.

13th.—Gojhan, the distance to this place is 12 miles 6 furlongs: it is not within sight of the Turnuk, though still up the valley of that river, with the same boundaries: a few ravines were crossed but they were not difficult: the road, otherwise level, turning most of them, and capable of easy transit. One small stream was passed, when we encamped on a small cut with excellent water: the banks as usual clovery and grassy; opposite this are two villages on either side of a gorge in the northern boundary, both apparently fortified; the one to the north of the gorge is of large size. The country is not shingly, but the soil is mixed with small pebbles; to our right is a bold hill; vegetation the same. Bicornigera planta is very common, and a good deal of madder cultivation occurs; wheat and barley all cut and thrashed or trodden out: atta selling eight and a half seers the rupee. Thermometer at day break 49°, the west winds continue strong: they arise about 11 A.M. and continue till sunset, sometimes even a little later; they are not hot.

This place, and its environs, is one of the most promising looking I have seen; the whole face of the country being perhaps capable of cultivation. No Joussa seen except perhaps among the cultivated fields; grass is plentiful enough for a small force, and Boosee likewise.

Quails were seen on the march at some distance: it seems to be a great country for potash, and perhaps for camphor, which is evidently abundant in one species of Artemisia.

14th.—Proceeded to Mookhloor or Chushm-i-Turnuk, twelve and a half miles; direction about NNE. The country is the same, but the road is more raviny: certain passes occur about three miles from Gojhan, presenting a fine defile, and some smaller ones afterwards. Vegetation continues the same. Artemisiæ, Astragali, and Peganum, are most common; observed a new Astragalus. The valley is much wider after passing Gojhan; the southern boundary is not so distinct, owing to the haze: there is not much cultivation, which appears to be confined to the slopes under the hills. Mookhloor is situated under a fine limestone cliff; and an excellent stream of water occurs here, and abundance of fine grass along the humid banks: along this water villages are abundant, they are all fortified. Trees are plentiful, indeed after Candahar and Arghandab, this is the best looking place we have seen: the view is not distinct however, owing to the haze above alluded to: beyond the water, lies a vast and barren plain. Fish are abundant in the stream, and vegetation luxuriant along its margins. This stream divides into two or three branches, which are all soon choked up with sedges, etc., a cut carries off the greater part of the water, the slope is to the south, or a little to the west of south.

Typha angustifolia occurs in profusion, Mentha, Cochlearia, Epilobiæ 2, Calamus abundant, Cyperaceæ in profusion, Ranuncul. aquatic, Alisma ditto. The vegetation of the plain where we are encamped is chiefly Artemisia.

15th.—Halted: and I here ascended the hills overhanging the heads of Turnuk where many villages are visible along its branches, fifty may be counted, but it is not known how many of these are in ruins, the villages occur at little distances from each other; the valley is very broad. These hills, which are of conglomerate limestone, except about the upper one-third, which is simple limestone, have no peculiar vegetation. Ficus is the only moderate sized shrub, Asphodelus, Lameoides, Salvia alia, which must be a beautiful species, Labiatæ cæspitosa, Bæhmerioides, Pommereulla, and several grasses, Compositæ, Linaria, Senecionoides glaucescens of Quettah, Dianthoides frutex alius congener, Staticoides alia, Composita Eryngifolia, Eryngium, Astragali 2, Umbelliferæ 2-3, Hibiscus vel Althæi, Rutæ sp.; Frutex pistacioides, Sedoides rosaceus, Onosma, Verbascum, Dipsacea, Cerasus pygmæus, canus, Scrophularia tertia, Compositæ, Labiatæ, and grasses, are all the most common plants.

The novelties along the water are a pretty species of Astragalus, in turf a Triglochin and Typha in flower, Potamogetons 3-4, and Ecratophyllum occur: barley is now selling at sixteen seers, wheat at eight seers for a rupee.

16th.—Reached Oba-kahreeze, the distance of which from the last encampment being fourteen miles. The country is open, but very uninteresting; the boundary hills are scarcely discernible owing to haze: the road is good, and a few small hills occur here and there. Vegetation is comparatively scanty; Astragalus novus, common; the chief plants, however, is another Artemisia of much more medicated qualities than those previously met with, that is, less fragrant, Peganum common. Water is plentiful enough, but fodder is scarce, and scarcely any Joussa occurs; but a good deal of cultivation was passed, consisting of madder, barley, and wheat. A few trees were observed here and there marking the sites of villages. The country is much poorer than that at Mookhloor, but almost the whole expanse of plain is capable of good cultivation: soil pebbly. Fowls a good many are procurable. Apricots are also brought for sale, but very inferior: a striking boundary hill to the north presents a rugged, lofty aspect, not less in the peaks than 4,000 above the plain; several ranges occur, but those to the south are low, rounded, and small; rounded clumps of Astragali are seen.

17th.—Proceeded to Jumrat, 12 miles and 2 furlongs, our direction lying to the north of the star Capella. The country continues to present a similar aspect: valley expanded, road tolerable, several ravines and beds of dry watercourses, with sandy bottoms; indeed as compared with yesterday, the soil is much more sandy and less pebbly. Vegetation is the same, no more dense aggregations of Artemisia fruticosa are seen, but the plants consisting of scattered Artemisia of yesterday, barely suffruticose, Peganum, Astragalus, Astragaloid Muscoideus, and Senecio glaucescens. A good deal of cultivation occurs on both sides of the slope towards the southern boundary, which is here lofty, presenting the usual limestone characters. Many villages are seen, all fortified, and about Jumrat there is the appearance of much population. Jerboas, ravens, rock pigeons, and wild pigeons, are common; hares are uncommon. Very few trees are to be seen, but there is abundance of good water and grass along the margins of the cut. Sheep are also to be had, but they are small, and goats for one rupee each, large sheep two rupees: dhal, atta, barley procurable; and Herat rugs.

To-day the native troops were put on short rations of twelve chatacs; servants, etc. on eight. Horsemen to the number of 100? came to meet the Shah, all mounted on decent ponies, but quite incapable of coping with our irregular horse. Barometer 23.305, thermometer 87°, Wooll. new thermometrical barometer 697.6, old 595.8.

From 11 P.M. to 12 P.M. heavy rain; very heavy for about twenty minutes, with a threatening aspect in the horizon at 7 A.M. to south by east, from which direction the rain came: thunder and lightning; latter very frequent.

18th.—Entered the district of Karabagh, distance to our present place of encampment from that we had left eight and a half miles. The road decent, traversing several watercuts, one or two ravines, and a small stream, indeed water becomes more abundant to-day than in almost any other march: our direction lay the same as before, but as we approached the low hills, separating us from Ghuznee plain, we proceeded more east in order to turn them. The features of the country are the same, together with the vegetation, the only novelty being a genuine Statice and a Cruciferous plant, which I observed at Mookhloor, and a Composita, Echinops spinis radiantibus continued. The medicated suffruticose Artemisia: Joussa in old cultivation, and Peganum are the most common plants.

Grass abundant along the cuts and streamlets, mixed with a pretty new Astragalus, and the Astragalus of Mookhloor, Composita depressa, etc.

The valley narrowing, we halted at the foot of low hills, which we are yet to traverse; the ground about our camp stony and barren, producing Astragalus, thorny Staticoides, Centaurea spinosa, Verbascum, and Thapsus.

The soil of the plain good and deep, as instanced by ravines, and the deep beds of streamlets. Cultivation is abundant, villages numerous, and, as usual, all walled; their form generally square, with a bastion at each corner, and often two at each face, in which there is a gate. The people are very confident of their own security in these parts, crowding to our camp with merchandise. The country continues bare of trees, except about some of the villages; northern boundary hills lofty; a curious snow-like appearance is occasionally produced from denudation of land slips, like a long wall running along one of the ridges: southern hills distant, presenting limestone characters.

The articles sold in camp yesterday, were atta (wheat) eight seers, barley sixteen chenna, sugar three to four seers. Lucerne abundant, at one rupee four annas a bullock load, soorais, kismiss, three to four seers, zurd-aloo twelve seers, dried toot or mulberry one and a half seers for a rupee, but these are insipid, very sweet, but also very dirty, pistacio nuts one seer: crops not yet cut, but ripe.

Kupra, cloth of common quality, as well as a black kind called soosee.

Barometer, mean of three observations (12 P.M., 1 P.M., 2 P.M.) 23.433, thermometer 85° 6'. Wooll. new therm. bar. mean of two observations, 699.1, old, 597.5. Lichens abundant on black limestone? rocks. On hills about camp, Labiata nova, and a curious tomentose plant were the only novelties.

19th.—Proceeded to Argutto, distance nine miles, direction easterly, the country continues unchanged until we ascended gradually the end of the low ridge between us and Ghuznee. The slope was very gradual: the road towards the foot generally sandy, and in some places very bouldery: on surmounting the ridge, which was not 300 feet above the plain, we descended a trifle, and encamped in an open space with hills to the north; this place slopes to the south into the valley up which we have come for some marches. The valley in this upper portion is not so fertile as the lower parts we have seen lately, still there are a good many forts, and some cultivation: one or two cuts were passed, and water is abundant at our halting place in cuts, or Kahrezes, as well as in a small torrent with a shallow bed. Several forts were seen on the north side, situated in the small ravines of the hills, they are however, mostly ruined. No change in the vegetation. Jerboas not uncommon. An Accipitrine bird, the same as that obtained at Shair-i-Suffer.

Horsemen, about thirty, were seen on the hills; they descended thence and skirted the base in number; when they were pursued by our cavalry, but escaped through a ravine which Sturt says, leads into a fine plain with many forts. The 4th brigade joined with the Shah’s force. I observed to-day a curious monstrosity of an Umbelliferous plant, in which the rays of the umbellules are soldered together; forming an involucre round the immersed central solitary female, the male flowers forming the extreme teeth of the involucre.

Detached thermometer 83° 3', attached ditto 83° 3'; barometer 23.262, mean of three observations: old therm. bar. 597.2, new ditto 696.9. Abundance of villages throughout the part of the valley running east, and then north, and many trees.

20th.—Proceeded to Nanee, distance eight to ten miles, bearing north-east; after descending slightly from the ground we encamped on, and turning the east extremity of its slope, the road is good, sandy and shingly, running close to low undulated hills. No change in vegetation. Encamped on undulated shingly ground formed from low hills to the north, about half a mile off: Ghuznee is thence visible, situated close under a range of hills, the walls high, having many bastions, and one angle on the south face. Abundance of villages and topes or groves about the valley closing up with irregular barren mountains. Picquets were seen about five miles from our camp, but no appearance of an army about Ghuznee.

The valley up which we have come since leaving Mookhloor, runs opposite this place, from nearly east to north, and apparently, terminates beyond Ghuznee; it is highly capable, is well inhabited and much cultivated. So are all the valleys that we have seen on surmounting the boundary ridges: the villages occupy each indentation of the valley, as well as its general level.

Barometer at 1 P.M. 23.336, thermometer 91°: new thermometric bar. 697.1, old 597.2. Latitude mean of three observations 33° 24' 26" North.

21st.—Moved to Ghuznee, ten miles six furlongs. Cavalry in very regular columns on the left; infantry to the right, and the artillery in the centre; the park bringing up the rear: to the last moment we were not aware whether the place would hold out or not. The Commander-in-Chief and staff moved far in advance to reconnoitre until we entered a road between some gardens, at the exit of which we were almost within range of the town; here we halted; a fire was soon set up against us from gardens to our left, and somewhat in advance, but all the shots fell far short. On the arrival of the infantry, the light companies of the 16th, the 48th were sent to clear the gardens, which they easily did, although from being trenched vineyards, walled and treed, their defence might have been very obstinate. In the mean time the guns on the south face of the fortress opened on us, and our artillery forming line at about 800 yards range, opened their fire of spherical case and round shot in return; other guns in the fort then opened and a sharp fire was kept up on those in the gardens by jhinjals and pigadas, who when hard pressed took refuge in an outwork or round tower. The fire from the south-east extremity was soon silenced pro tempore, the shrapnel practice being very effective. The howitzer battery on the extreme left of the artillery line was too great a range, and with the exception of one gun, all the shells fell short. In the mélee, the Zuburjur 48-pounder, was dismounted, and carried with it a considerable portion of the wall of the citadel where it is built upon a scarp in the east face. After some further firing, the troops were withdrawn almost without range, but sheltered by gardens and broken ground. From 9 A.M. the engineers with an escort reconnoitred the place, and having ascertained that the only practicable point of attack with our means was the Cabul gate, we were moved off, and marched to the new ground in the evening. Owing to the difficulty of crossing a river and several cuts which intercepted the way, and formed the worst road for camels and guns I have yet seen, much of the baggage was not up till twelve next (i.e. this) morning.

One European was killed, accompanying the escort. Graves severely, and Von Homrig slightly wounded, a golundauz lost his leg, and a few others were wounded. Their gun practise in the fortress improved much towards the end, and against the reconnoitring party, was said to be good.

22nd.—The ground we now occupy is the mouth of the valley, up which the Cabul road runs: our camp stretches obliquely across this; the Shah’s camp taking a curve and resting by its left on the river. On our (i.e. the sappers) right, is a range of hills, from the extremity of which the town is commanded; between us and the range in question, the 4th brigade is stationed, and on the other side, the remainder of the infantry. We are it seems within reach of the long gun, which has been remounted, and occasionally directs its energies against the Shah’s camp. The night was quiet, the troops completely knocked up by the fatigues of the day, the distance we came (to the right) was certainly six miles, and that by which the infantry moved to the left, was still more.

The gardens between us and the town are occupied by the enemy, but the village of Zenrot on the ridge, is not. Large numbers of cavalry are seen on the other boundary range of the valley, opposite our encampment, certainly 2,000; this is probably the other son of Dost Mahommud, who left the fort with the Gilzee cavalry on the night of our march to Ghuznee, for the purpose of attacking our baggage; they were easily driven from the ridge, which is now occupied by our horse.

23rd.—Ghuznee was taken this morning by a coup-de-main, the whole affair was over in half an hour from the time the gate was blown open; there was, however, a good deal of firing afterwards, and some of the inhabitants even held out throughout the day, and caused almost as much loss as that which occurred in the storm. The affair took place as follows: the guns moved into position between 12½ and 2½ P.M., and about 3 P.M. commenced firing at the defences over the gate: under cover of this fire the bags of powder, to the amount of 800 lbs. were placed against the gate by Captain Peat, the hose being fired by Lieut. Durand. In the mean time the road to the gate was occupied by the storming party, the advance of which was composed of the flank companies of all the European Regiments. The head of the advance was once driven back by a resolute party of Affghans, who fought desperately hand to hand, but a jam taking place, the check was only momentary. After clearing the gate, the enemy must have become paralysed, and both town and citadel were gained with an unprecedentedly trifling loss. None of the engineers, or of the party who placed the bags, were touched, although from the enemy burning blue lights they must have been seen distinctly: two, of a few Europeans who accompanied Capt. Peat were shot; one killed. During the day a great number of prisoners were taken, among whom was Dost Mahommud’s son; a great number of horses also fell into our hands.

24th.—Ghuznee: by this morning at 9 o’clock every thing was quiet, and the last holders-out have been taken; strict watch is kept at the gate to prevent plunder, dead horses are now dragged out, and dead men buried: the place looks desolate, but the inhabitants are beginning to return. It appears to me a very strong, though very irregular place, the stronger for being so: the streets are very narrow, and dirty enough, houses poor, some said to be good inside, it is a place of considerable size, perhaps one-third less than Candahar. It is surrounded by a wet ditch, of no great width, the walls are tall and strong, weakest on the north-east angle immediately under the citadel; parapets, etc. are in good repair. The loop holes are however absurd, and even when large are carefully screened. The ditch is crossed at the Cabul gate by a stone bridge. The Zuburjur is a very large gun, but almost useless to Affghans, who are no soldiers. Every side of the town might have been stoutly defended.

The view from the citadel is extensive and fine, the mountains to the north and north-west extremely so, and seem crowded in the view, while the river and its cultivation add novelty to an Affghan landscape; many villages are visible in every direction, surrounded with gardens and orchards.

There is a good deal of cultivation all round the town, which is situated on a sloping mound, separated by the ditch from the ridge forming the northern boundary of the valley, up which the Cabul road runs; there is a small mosque on this ridge, and below it, within 400 yards of the ramparts, a small village, from which the attack was best seen. The gardens are as usual walled, and are all capable of irrigation, the plots being covered with fine grass or clover. Apples, apricots, pears, and plums much like the Orlean’s plum, a sort of half greengage, bullace, Elæagnus, and mulberries, are the principal fruit trees; of these the pear is the best, it is small but well flavoured; the others are indifferent. There are many vineyards dug into shallow trenches: the plum is allied to the egg-plum, but altogether there are four kinds.

The chief vegetation of the uncultivated ground is a small Salsola, Salsola luteola, this is mixed with Peganum, Santalaceæ, Senecionoides glaucescens, Umbelliferoid bicornigera, Composita, having the decurrent part of the leaves dislocated and hanging down. Centaurea spinescens, Linaria, Joussa, and one or two Astragali.

The vegetation, with the exception of an Artemisia indicæ similis, a Malvacea, and an Orobanche growing on Cucumis sp., is precisely the same as that met with from Mookhloor hither, Cichorium, Polygonum graminifolium natans, and two others, Rumex, Mentha, Epilobium micranthum, Dandelion, Plantago major, Panicum.

There are two kinds of willow trees; Thermopsis is not uncommon, Centaurea magnispina and Zygophyllum of Candahar are very common, Sisymbrium, Lophia, Hyoscyamus, Centaurea cyanea, Tauschia. Magpies, Hoopoes, Pastor roseus. Corvus corax, etc., along the water-cuts.

Some fine Poplars occur at a village, or rather a Fuqeer’s residence; about one and a half mile to the south-west of the town on the road to Candahar, and about it, one or two Carduaceæ, one a fine one, to be called C. zamufolia, Pomacea acerifolia, also in gardens: among the cultivated plants are maize, fennel, aniseed? Solarium, Bangun! Madder, the beautiful clover of Mookhloor, lucerne, melons, watermelons, cresses, L. sativum, radishes, onions, beetroot.

There are no ruins indicating a very extensive old city. About our camp are the remains of bunds and old mud walls; near us, and between us and the city, are two minars, with square tall pedestals, of burnt brick, about 100 feet high, and 600 paces apart: there is nothing striking about them, although they bear evidences of greater architectural skill than any thing I have seen in the country, excepting the interior of Ahmed Shah’s tomb. The base is angular, fluted, and equals the capital, which is but little thicker towards its base. They are brick, and derive their beauty from the diversity in the situation of the bricks. The one nearest the city is the smaller, and appears perfect, it is likewise provided with a staircase: the larger one is broken at the top of the capital.

26th.—I went to see Mahmoud of Ghuznee’s tomb, which is situated in a largish and better than ordinarily built village, about two miles from the Cabul gate, on the road to Cabul, at a portion of the valley densely occupied with gardens. The situation is bad, and the building which appears irregular, quite unworthy of notice; it is situated among the crowded houses of the village, and to be found, must be enquired for.

At the entrance of the obscure court-yard which leads to it, there is a fine rivulet that comes gushing from under some houses, shaded by fine mulberry trees; in this court are some remains of Hindoo sculpture in marble; the way there leads past an ordinary room under some narrow cloisters to the right, then turning to the left one enters another court, on the north side of which is the entrance to the tomb; there is no architectural ornament at all about it, either inside or out. The room is an ordinary one, occupied towards the centre by a common old looking tomb of white marble, overhung by lettered tapestry, and decorated with a tiger skin: over the entrance, hang three eggs of the ostrich, for which the natives have the very appropriate name of camel bird, and two shells, like the Hindoo conches, but smaller. The roof is in bad order, and appears to have been carved. The doors appear old; they are much carved, but the carvings are effaced; they are not remarkable for size, beauty, or mass; and appear to be cut from some fir wood, although the people say they are sandal wood. The tomb strikingly confirms the idea that the Putans became improved through their connection with Hindoostanees, rather than the reverse; the tomb is unworthy of a great conqueror.

I then ascended the ridge, and descended along it to the picquets on the flank of our camp. This ridge, like all the low ones from Mookhloor to this place, is rounded, very shingly, and generally on the northern face, is partly covered with rocks, apparently limestone. The vegetation presents nothing unusual, with the exception of a very large Cnicus, Cnicoideus zamiafolius, capitulis parvis, an Umbellifera, a Scutellaria, Dipsacus; otherwise they are thinly scattered with two or three Astragali, two or three Artemisiæ, among which A. gossypifera is the most common, Labiata fragrans of Karabagh, Senecio glaucescens, Compositæ, Eryngioides, Centaurea alia, magnispinæ affinis, Santalacea, Leucades, Onosma major, et alia, foliis angustis, Echinops prima, Sedoides, Cerasus, Canus pygmæus, Dianthoides alia.

The view from this ridge is beautiful, it shows that three valleys enter the Karabagh one about Ghuznee, the largest to the eastward; then the Cabul one, then that of the Ghuznee river. The slope of this valley from the mountains to the river, presents a very undulated appearance. The cultivation is confined to the immediate banks of the river, which is thickly inhabited, and to most of the ravines of the mountains, shewing that water is generally plentiful. The river is to be traced a long way by means of the line of villages and orchards which follow its banks.

The mountains are very barren, much varied in the sculpture of their outlines, and are by no means so rugged as those of limestone in the Turnuk valley. The lofty one which presents the appearance of a wall near its ridge, and of snow, alluded to during the march hither on the 18th ultimo, is still visible. Considerable as is the cultivation, it bears a very small proportion to the great extent of waste, and probably untillable land, untillable from the extreme thinness of the soil and its superabundant stones. Cratœgus occurred near Mahmoud’s tomb, also Centaurea cyanea.

29th.—Halted: nothing new; botany very poor; poorer than ordinary.

30th.—Moved to Shusgao, distance thirteen and three-quarter miles, direction still the same, or, to the north of the star Capella. The road extends over undulating ground, is cut up by ravines, but easily traversed, ascending and descending; then crossing a small valley, at the north-east corner of which the ghat is visible: the ascent to the mouth of this gorge equals apparently the height attained before descending into the valley. The pass is narrow, the sides steep but not precipitous; the hills are not very rugged, and they are generally thinly clothed with scattered tufted plants; the pass gradually widens, and has a ruin or remains of a small fort-like building as at the entrance. This ruin, or fort, looks down into a poorly inhabited, poorly cultivated, Khorassan valley: road good, with a gradual ascent for one and a half mile from the exit of the pass, where we encamped, about five miles on the Cabul side.

The Botany is rather interesting, the general features are the same as those of the hills round Ghuznee; the most common plants Senecionoides glaucus, Plectranthus of Mookhloor in profusion, a new densely tufted Statice very common, Verbascum, Thapsioides, Linaria, Artemisia very common, Cnici, two or three of large stature, Astragali, two or three, Asphodelus luteus, Labiata of Mookhloor, Santalacea, Dipsacus, Thymus, Lotoides, Staticoides major.

In the undulated ground before reaching the valley preceding the pass, a fine tall Cnicus occurs, also Plectranthus; Peganum is very common.

About our halting place the same small Artemisia and Composita dislocata occur in profusion; Cnicus zamiafolius, Dianthus aglaucine, Astragalus, a peculiar prim-looking species. Leguminosæ, Muscoides two or three, very large Cnici, Plectranthus, Iris out of flower, Astragali alii, 2-3.

Cultivation consisting of mustard and very poor crops, of which wheat is the principal: a few ordinary villages are seen with good and abundant supplies of water; the country notwithstanding is inferior, as compared with that about Ghuznee. The soil coarse and gravelly, or pebbly. Thermometer 47° at 5 A.M.

After descending from the gorge, the summit of which may be estimated at 400 to 500 feet, the ascent is considerable: barometer standing at 1½ P.M. at 22.323; thermometer 86°; so that the extreme ascent since leaving Ghuznee has certainly been between 1,100 to 1,200 feet.

The inhabitants are coming into camp with articles for sale, as lucerne, clover, coarse rugs, and sheep.

31st.—Proceeded to Huftasya, eight and a quarter miles, direction about the same, continuing down a narrow valley with a well marked and tolerable road, extending over undulating ground, having a slight descent throughout: the centre of the valley is cultivated, villages extend up the ravines of the northern side. We halted near several villages, with a good deal of cultivation around, consisting of beans and mustard. But few trees are seen about the villages, and there is no change in vegetation: water abundant from covered kahreezes or wells, which generally flow into small tanks.

The slope of the southern boundary is undulated, that of the northern though generally flat and uninteresting, yet near us becomes very bold and rugged, but its ravines and passes are easily accessible.

Shusgao—The plants found here about the cultivation, are Achillæoides, Asteroides, Plantago major, Hyoscyamus, Tanacetoides, Artemisia, Trifolium, Taraxacum, Mentha, Phalaris, Rumex, the small swardy Carex of Chiltera, Astragalus, calycibus non-inflatis, tomentoso villoso, this last with Composita dislocata is common on shingly plains.

On slopes of hills Leucades, Cerasus canus, pygmæus rare, Dianthoides, Plectranthus very common, Cnici 3 or 4, Labiata of Mookhloor, Senecionoides glaucescens common, Artemisia, sp. very common, Staticoides of Dhun-i-Shere, Anthylloides, Verbascum.

Hyoscyamus. The circumcision of the capsule of this genus is apparently in connection with the peculiar induration of the calyx of the fruit; its relations to the capsule is so obvious that its dehiscence is the only one compatible with the free dissemination of the seeds, the calyx remaining entire. Hence? the induration of the calyx should be the most permanent if it is the cause, but to obviate all doubts, both calyx, fructus induratus, and capsula circumscissa, should enter into the generic character; the unilaterality of capsules, and their invariable tendency to look downwards, or rather the inferior unilaterality, may likewise reasonably be considered connected with the same structure of calyx, as well as the expanded limb of the calyx.

The indurated calyx is the cause, because although circumscissa capsula is by no means uncommon, and in others has no relation to the calyx, yet in this genus it has such, and should have in every other similar case.

August 1st.—Hyderkhet, distance ten and a half miles down the same valley; the road is bad and after crossing the undulating terminations of the southern slope, very stony and bouldery; in several places it is narrow and uneven. The country is well inhabited, and very well cultivated, particularly towards the bed of the river, which is here and there ornamented with trees. Numbers of villagers are seen on the road as spectators. Beans very abundant, mustard less so, excellent crops of wheat; the fields are well tilled, and very cleanly kept: this portion of the valley, though small, is perhaps the best populated and cultivated place we have yet seen: the descent throughout is gradual: the boundary hills, at least lower ranges present a very barren character, covered with angular slaty fragments. Some tobacco cultivation.

2nd.—Shekhabad, nine miles and six furlongs, direction north-east by east. The road throughout is rather bad, particularly in places near the Schneesh river, which has a very rapid current. We left this on its turning abruptly through a narrow ravine to the south: towards this, the valley narrows much; we then ascended a rising ground, and descended as much or perhaps less until we reached the Logur, a river as large almost as the Arghandab, this we crossed by a bridge composed of stout timbers, laid on two piers composed of stones and bushes, and tied together by beams: the cavalry and artillery forded below, and above the bridge. Crossing the bed which is low and well cultivated, chiefly with rice, we ascended perhaps 100 feet, and encamped on undulating shingly ground; we then passed much cultivation on the road: villages are plentiful, and often placed in very narrow gorges unusually picturesque for Affghanistan; one scene was especially pretty, enclosed by the high barren mountains of the southern boundary, in the distance a village or two, and the Schneesh, with banks well wooded, and willows in the foreground.

The aspect of the hills, except some of the distant ranges, is however changed; quartz has become very common among the shingle, with reddish, generally micaceous, slate: the mountains are rounded, and easy of access: very poorly clothed with vegetation. The course of the Logur is nearly north and south.

There are some villages about this place, with lucerne, clover and bearded rice of small stature.

The elevation of the country is here about 100 feet below our camp, which is about half a mile from the river. Barometer 182, 23.362; thermometer 95°; latitude 34° 5' 30".

3rd.—Halted: the Logur river discharges much water; the whole of the tillable portions of adjacent banks are not under cultivation, the rocky sides to the south composed of micaceous slate, are very precipitous; these mountains were originally rounded, but are now formed into cliffs; willows and poplars are abundant along the river. But the vegetation of the cliffy sides scarcely presents any change, except in a Salvia, a Ruta, a small withered Leguminosa; the other plants are Polygonacea frutex uncommon, Senecionoides, Salvia Horminum common, Artemisia two: the usual one very common, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoides, and luteus, several Compositæ, two or three Cnicoidei, a Pulicaria, etc. of the same section, Cuscuta, Linaria angustifolia, Stipa, several withered grasses, Dianthoides, Scrophularia, Allium, Cerasus canus, pygmæus uncommon, Sedoides, Boragineæ, Boraginis facie common, Leucades, Astragali, three or four, Onosmæ 2, angustifolia and majus, Scutellaria, Equisetoides, Ephedra.

Anthylloides, Plectranthus common, Peganum uncommon, Staticoides major, Compositæ dislocata common.

In the swardy and wet spots along river, the usual plants occur; the novelty being a Hippuris out of flower, Plantago, Glaux, Chara, Alisma, Tamarisk, Salix, Trifolium fragiferum, Thermopsis, Cyperacea, Triglochim, Equisetum. The Nuthatch found in the cliffs, cultivation occurs.

To-day news arrived of the flight of Dost Mahommud to Bamean, with 3,000 Affghan Horse. Captain Outram sent in pursuit. The Shah joined us, attended by perhaps 2,000 Horse, and people are said to be flocking into our camp from Cabul.

4th.—Proceeded to Killa-Sir-i-Mahommud, distance ten and a half miles, direction north by east, the park of artillery, etc. remaining behind, the road for the first half extending over undulating ground to the head of the valley, then becoming level and good with some inferior cultivation: the valley is dry and barren. We encamped on stony ground forming a slight eminence under a beautiful peak, certainly 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the plain, and hence 12,000 to 13,000 feet above the sea. The valley at the base of the hills is occupied by a few villages, but generally speaking little population exists in these parts. No change in vegetation; at the level part of the march the Chenopodiaceæ of Karabagh is very common.

The 2,000 Dooranees who joined the Shah yesterday dwindled down to 300 by the evening, and the camp was fired into at night. There is some cultivation about this, chiefly of mustard, carrots, millet and Panicum, Setaria.

5th.—To Maidan, distance eight miles? direction at first as before, but after crossing the river due north, we continued down the valley, passing some villages and cultivation consisting of beans, etc.; water being abundant about three miles from camp, forming a small brook, which falls into the Cabul river at the end of the valley. Before reaching this we crossed a low spur, and then descended into Maidan valley: which presented a beautiful view; much cultivation, and trees abundant along the Cabul river.

Crossing this which is a rapid current one foot deep, twenty yards wide, running south, or in the contrary direction to that which is given in Tassin’s Map, we ascended an eminence on which a ruinous stone fort is built, we crossed this eminence between the fort and main ridge and descended into a valley again, keeping above the cultivation at the foot of the east boundary range, for about a mile, when we halted. The ruins of a stone bridge exist over the river, one arch remaining on the left bank.

The valley is the prettiest we have seen, the hills to the west and north being lofty and picturesque; one to the latter direction presenting an appearance exactly like that of snow on its ridge, quite white, but not changing even at noon, nor occupying such places, as it would do if it were snow. The mountains, except those to the west, are not boldly peaked, the valley is prettily diversified with wood, all of the usual sombre cypress-like appearance, from the trees, especially poplars, being clipped. Cultivation and water both plentiful: villages and small forts numerous, with very barren mountains. This was the place where Dost Mahommud was to have fought; he could not have selected a better, the ridge entering the valley, and the passage of the river, as well as that of the fort would have afforded good positions: a road however runs round the base of the eminence on the river side. By swamping the valley, or cutting a canal, and entrenching himself he might have caused great difficulties. Apples are abundant here, rosy and sweet.

Cultivation of the valley consists of wheat, barley, Cicer, not chunna, maize, rice, carrots, beans, peas.

The river side is well furnished with willows and poplars, Salix viminea also occurs; the villages are generally square, with a bastion at each corner, and loopholes. Cyprinus microsquamatus, [{383}] common.

6th.—Arghundee, distance eight miles, direction for the first fourth of the way NE., then considerably to the eastward, when we soon left the valley and commenced with an ascent over a low ridge by a vile stony road over undulating ground. On reaching the ridge a similar descent took place, where the road becomes less stony, but much intersected by ravines. We encamped about three miles from the ridge, in a rather barren narrow valley. Nothing of interest occurred on the road, except Dost Mahommud’s guns, which are the best I have seen in the country. The hills to our north crowded closely together, the inner ranges are very high, with the appearance of snow.

Hindoo-koosh is dimly seen in the distance to the eastward. In some streams water birds, particularly the small kingfisher of India are seen. The Hoopoe is common, Merops, Pastor, and ravens. New plants a Boragineæ floribus infundibuliformis, tubiformibus, lœta cæruleis, venosa roseis, melons. Snow on the Hindoo-koosh: rain in the afternoon, and at night a heavy thunderstorm to the north.

7th.—Kilah-i-Kajee, lies one mile to the eastward: distance of to-day’s march, nine miles? one continued but gradual descent over a bad, frequently very stony road, not much water. Direction at first ENE., then on descending into the first valley, due east or even to the south of east, we encamped in the centre of a well-cultivated valley; near dense gardens, having good apples; apricots indifferent. Hindoo-koosh is here more distinctly visible with several ranges interposed; the outline is rugged, highest point presenting a fine conical irregular peak towards the south-east.

8th.—Halted: encamped close to gardens and rich cultivation. The fields are separated by rows of poplars, willows, and Elæagnus; scenery pretty from abundance of trees with rice fields interspersed among woods; the umbrageous banks of the rocky river of Cabul, are quite of unusual beauty for Afghanistan: extensive fields of cultivation lie in this direction, as well as across the valley in the direction of Cabul, consisting of rice in great quantities, mixed with much of a Panicum stagninum, lucerne, carrots, peas, quantities of safflower, which appears to me to be of a different species, wheat and barley both cut, the rice is just in flower.

In orchards, hazel-nuts, apples, pears, etc. some of the fruit excellent, particularly pears, but generally they are coarse; apples beautiful to look at, but poor to the taste, excellent but too luscious plums, good grapes, excellent and fine sized peaches, melons as good as those of Candahar, water melons, cherries of very dark colour.

Some change is to be observed in the vegetation, see Catalogue, two or three Labiata, an Ononis, an Aconite, Tussilago? etc. among the most striking, Ammannia and Bergioides, remarkable as tropical forms, but it is now hot enough for any plant: rice fields crowded with Cyperaceæ and Alisma.

Cratægus oxycantha, or one very like it. The poplar here grows like the Lombardy one, either from cropping or crowding; its leaves (when young) are much smaller! and at this stage it might easily be taken for another species.

Heliotropium canus common. The large poplar when young, or even when matured, has its younger branches with terminal leaves like the sycamore. The pomaceæ-foliis palmatis subtus niveis of Quettah and Candahar are nothing but this poplar in its young state!! Nothing can exceed the difference between the two, both in shape and tomentum.

12th.—Halted since 10th at Baber’s tomb, situated at some fine gardens, or rather groves very near the summer-house of Shah Zumaun, and to the right of the entrance into the town. It is a delightful residence, and for Afghanistan, a paradise. There are some tanks of small size, around one of which our tents are pitched under the shade of sycamores and fine poplars; the tank is fed by a fall from a cut above its level, and which skirts the range of hills at an elevation of fifty feet in some places from its base. The tomb of Baber is poor, as also is the so-called splendid mosque of Shah Jehan, a small ordinary open edifice of coarse white marble. In the gardens, one finds beautiful sycamores, and several fine poplars both round the tank and in avenues. Below them a Bauhinioid fruit was found, together with abundance of hawthorn, roses, and jasmines.

The view from this spot is beautiful, as fine as most woodland scenery. The view from Shah Zumaun’s summer-house is also extensive, and not to be exceeded as a cultivated woodland scene; it is variegated with green swardy commons, presenting all sorts of cultivation; with water, villages, abundance of trees, willows, poplars, hedgerows, and by the grand but barren mountains surrounding it, the Pughman hills, which must be at least 13,000 feet above the sea.

The entrance to Cabul on this side, is through a gorge flanked by hills; these to the left are low, those to the right reaching 1,000 feet, through which the Maidan river, here called the Cabul river, runs; it may be 100 yards wide. The river is subdivided, and crossed by a ruined stone bridge of many arches, one parapet of which (the outer) is continuous with the wall before mentioned. The gorge is occupied by cultivation of several kinds, having the city wall at its termination, running irregularly across the valley. A village is situated between the entrance of the gorge and the wall. There are no defences to the city worth mentioning: one enters immediately into narrow dirty streets, with here and there a fever-breeding stagnant sewer; while the streets are narrow, the bazars are good, of good breadth, well covered in by flat ornamented roofs: the shops are clean, and well laid out. Shoemakers and leather-workers, and fruiterers, are the most common: there are armourers, blacksmiths, drapers and bakers. Hindoos and Mussulmen intermixed, form the population. There is great bustle and activity, everywhere profusion of fine fruit, especially melons, grapes, and apples are presented.

13th.—I ascended this morning the ridge above us, up which the wall runs; the ascent is, after surmounting the summer-house of Shah Zumaun, considerably steep, and very rugged. The highest position of the wall is 1,150 feet above the city. It is eight feet high, and six or seven thick, composed of slabs of the micaceous slaty stone of the place, cemented by mud, with a parapet of two feet, generally of kucha, or mud, with loopholes, and bad embrasures. It is furnished with bastions, but is now in a ruinous state. It is a work completely thrown away. To the south, the wall bends eastward, and is continuous with the outworks of the upper citadel; to the north it dips into the gorge, and re-ascends the hills on the opposite side.

From the peak, (which is not the highest point of the ridge, there being two higher to the south, on the nearest of which is a mound, and a small pillar) a beautiful view is obtained of Cabul, its valley, and its mountains, together with the far more beautiful valley in which the army is encamped.

The town itself presents an irregular outline, and is, with the exception of some gardens towards its northern side, some lucerne fields near its centre, and one or two open spots of small size, densely crowded with the usual terraced-roofed, kucha, or mud houses, which are so close, as to show no streets whatever.

There is not a single conspicuous building in it, with the exception of the lower Bala Hissar and a mosque of small size on the right bank of the river, occupying an open space near a garden, which alone renders it distinct.

The Bala Hissar occupies the eastern corner: its outworks are regular enough. It is surrounded by the remains of a wet ditch; its works have been lately improved. Excepting the part occupied by the Shah, etc. the space is crowded by houses exactly like the town. The fort to its south and commanding it completely, is the upper citadel, and is altogether out of repair; this continues the defence formed by the wall. The walls of the city themselves are not distinguishable, excepting those of the nearest quarter, occupied by Kuzzilbashes. The river intersects the town, it is crossed by two, three, or perhaps more small stone bridges, and runs nearly due east, and may be traced almost to the foot of the eastern boundary range. From near the mosque a fine straight road runs NNE. or thereabouts, with avenues of trees of small size near the town. Two other roads are visible on the east side; one is continuous with that which runs along the north face of the lower citadel, it runs due east; and the other slopes towards this, and meets it about two or three miles from the city at the end of a low range of hills.

The valley is not so well cultivated as ours, (i.e. the one in which the army is encamped) nor by any means so well wooded; it appears bare some way from the city, but this may arise from the stubble of the prevailing cultivation of wheat and barley. There is abundance of water, the only distinct Chummun is to the south of the citadel, it is now under water.

Some low isolated hills or ranges are interspersed in the valley; of these the largest is that running nearly parallel to the central road; the next is due north of the city, and midway between it and the salt-water lake which stretches several miles along the north of the valley, and which appears to be a large body of water.

The boundary hills are generally fine; to the east is a high scarped bold range, running nearly due north and south, its terminations being plainly visible; near its southern end commences the ridge that forms the oblique south boundary of the valley, and which runs up towards the south into a fine broadly conical peak, very conspicuous from Arghandab. To the north are the fine Pughman mountains; these run east and west: they are of great elevation, and of fine outline, presenting here and there appearances of snow. To the west is the walled ridge, not exceeding 1,300 feet in its highest point above the general level; this is interrupted by the Cabul river, and never reaches such elevations again; before ending to the north, it sends off a spur to the east.

Beyond the eastern boundary, glimpses of the Hindoo-koosh are obtainable.

To the west, there are no very high hills visible, excepting the western part of the Pughmans; those of our valley are not exceeding 2,000 feet in height, and are low to the south, in which direction the Maidan river flows into the valley. Beyond the highest point of the walled ridge, are several crowded high mountains.

The vegetation of the western hills is not peculiar, Echinops, a tallish Carduacea, Carduacea alia, Senecionoides, Astragali, Artemisiæ 2, Statice of Dhuni pass.

Leucades, Labiata of Karabagh, Gramineæ, several small Compositæ, foliis dislocatis, Leguminosa, fructu echinatis, Santalacea, Asphodelus luteus, Ruta angustifolia, Umbellifera, foliis maximis of Chiltera, a very stout plant, with a very medicinal gum, a new Polanisioid, a Centaureoid, and a fine Carduacea are to be found in it.

A Marmot, the size of a large rat, is also found here, the large specimens are of a reddish tinge, the small ones of a blackish.

The bazars are crowded all day, and in the morning are obstructed from asses loaded with wood. Most things are procurable; the cloths seen are mostly the indifferent common kind of cloth related to the Seikh Puttoo; camel hair chogas, posteens or coarse blankets; these last indicating very cold winters: there are not many other things peculiar—long knives, and the shoes and boots are among the most so, and wretched silk handkerchiefs.

The most common grapes are the kismiss, a long coarse grape which answers for packing, a round, very sweet, purple grape, with large seeds, and small seedless ones intermixed, are all capable of being much improved by thinning, and a huge, tough-skinned, coarse, purple grape, of good flavour.

The best peaches have a green appearance, even when ripe; the ordinary ones are coarse, and not well-flavoured; but the Affghans are quite ignorant of the art of packing fruit, and hence most are bruised.

Two sorts of apples are common, both rosy; one very much so, but much inferior to the other.

Pears principally of two kinds, both allied to the common pear in shape; the large ones are very coarse, but well adapted for stewing.

Aloocha excellent for jellies, as also the cherries: most kinds of plums are now out of season.

The melons vary much in quality, the watermelons are generally better, and vary less: the muskmelons I have here seen, are ruined by inattention to the time of gathering; some are very fine, the pulp is never very deep coloured; it is very rarely green; some of the Kundah sort are very good; this and the turbooj are both excessively common. The usual Cucurbita is cultivated, as well as the other common cucumber, pumpkin, Luffa fœtida, and L. acutangula.

Cabbages common, beet root ditto, bangun ditto, excellent spinage (Spinaceæ).

All sorts of spices procurable, but they are generally old: sugar very good, is sold in flat candied cakes, one and a half inch thick; koorool in small cakes resembling chunam.