CHAPTER XVI.
From Cabul to Bamean—The Helmund, and Oxus rivers.
24th August, 1839.—Left Cabul for Bamean, and marched to Urghundee.
25th.—To the Cabul river, distance twelve and a half miles; diverged from the Cabul road at Urghundee Chokey, striking obliquely across a ravine that debouches into the main valley at this point. The course of the river ENE. or thereabouts, then we entered a ravine to the west side of the river, and commenced ascending the pass, which is not difficult, and although rather steep at first, subsequently it becomes merely undulated, the surrounding hills of the pass have the usual character, but are separated by mere ravines. Vegetation very scanty; Senecionoides very common, as also Joussa and Statice of Dund-i-sheer; here I noticed the Solora found in the wood at Kilatkajee. The Barometer at the summit of the pass, 22.148: thermometer 60°. An extensive view is had from it, up the Cabul river, the valley of which is well cultivated, but presents nothing very striking in its neighbouring mountains. Great numbers of sheep passed us going towards Cabul, also numbers of Patans with their families, all on camels, than some of which last nothing could be finer. The women’s dress consists of loose gowns, generally bluish, with short waists coming almost up under the arms, and leggings of folded cloths; they are a gipsy-like, sun-burnt, good looking people. Numbers of asses laden with grain were also passed. At the halting place indifferent apples only were to be had. Slight rain fell in the afternoon from east, then it became heavier from west.
26th.—Distance eight miles, the road lay along the Cabul river up a gentle ascent, over undulated ground; features of country the same, villages, etc., abundant. Heavy rain set in from the west after our arrival at the encamping ground at 4 P.M., with thunder. Night hazy, heavy dew.
27th.—To Sir-i-Chushme, distance ten miles, direction continues easterly up the Cabul river valley: features the same; road generally good, here and there stony, crossed a large tributary falling into the Cabul river, from the north at Juljaily, a large village, the largest in the valley, and very pretty. Poplars and willows in plenty along river. Near Sir-i-Chushme the valley becomes narrow; the river passing through a gorge, on the left side of which on rugged rocky ground, are the remains of a tower. The rocks here are mica slate, reposing at a considerable angle, occasionally nearly vertical. The surface is thinly vegetated, Silenacea, two or three Muscoides (981), Scrophulariæ sp., common, etc. (see Catal. 971, etc.) Beyond, the valley again widens, presenting similar features to those just mentioned. To the right side of the valley there is a beautiful narrow ravine, bounded on the south with springs, to the north by a noble bleak rugged ridge, with much snow; it has the usual features, namely, a shingly inclined plane between huge hills. The village of Sir-i-Chushme is built on a rising ground or small spur, surrounded by numerous springs which supply the source of the Cabul river; the bed of which above them is nearly dry. The springs abound with the usual water plants, a Cinclidotoid moss in abundance, a Celtoid tree stands over one spring; Peganum continues. A shallow circular pool occurs at the foot of the hills, on which the village is built; it is crowded with the peculiar Cyprinidæ of these parts, [{390a}] some of which attain three pounds in weight, as also a small loach. [{390b}]
The cultivation throughout this valley is good. The soil is however heavy, but in places it gives way to a brown mould: rice is cultivated up to Julraiz, but not beyond, millet (Setaria), Indian-corn, lucerne, mustard, beet root; beans and peas are very common.
Great pains are taken with watercuts, which are led off into each ravine that debouches into the valley, at elevations of sixty to eighty feet above the river; opposite each, the river where led off is bunded across. The watercuts or courses are in some places built up with stones. Apricot trees continue, also mulberries near Julraiz, but they are not productive.
Timber is cut in good quantities, and is floated down in the spring to Cabul. We continue to meet flocks of sheep and camels with Patans, Momums, and Ghilzees going to Cabul, thence to Julallabad; after selling their produce at Cabul, they return in the summer to the same pasturages.
The oxen used to tread out corn are muzzled: grain is winnowed as in Europe by throwing it up in the wind, the corn falls nearest the wind, the coarse chaff next, then the fine chaff. Sir-i-Chushme is about the same height as the pass into the valley of the Cabul river.
English Scrophularia were observed to-day at Julraiz. We obtained all provisions cheap at this place, but of very inferior quality compared to Cabul.
The most common plants are Senecionoides and Plectranthus; Artemisiæ one or two, some Carduaceæ. Very few novelties occur: hedges of Hippophæ and roses, Salvia very common to-day; asses were seen laden with dried Ruwash leaves.
28th.—To Yonutt, twelve miles, continued for a short distance up the Sir-i-Chushme valley, then we diverged to the north-west, still following the principal streamlet up an easy defile; on reaching a beautiful kila, differently ornamented from the usual form, we diverged along the same ravine much more to the west. We continued doing so for five or six miles, passing a little cultivation in every possible spot capable of it, and four or five forts. The ascent then commenced to be steeper, still continuing up the watercourse which was very small; this we soon left, passing over five ridges of easy access, the third being the highest. Barometer 20.365: thermometer 80° at 10½ A.M.; after this we descended the 5th ridge or kotal, 200 or 300 feet, which is very steep, having a watercourse at its bottom; direction of stream lies to the north, thence ascending we again descended gradually over an open stony ridge, until we reached the fort of Yonutt, where we encamped near a green wet spot, visible for some distance.
The road here and there was bad owing to stones; except at the last kotal, or ascent, it was nowhere very steep, but difficult enough for camels, especially up the ascent of the 1st kotal. It lay up a ravine not unlike others we have seen, the ascent being considerable, but gradual, when we left the watercourse, however, we came on a different country, very elevated (1st kotal not under 10,000 feet), longly undulated, the mountains generally massive, rounded, here and there rising into peaks, especially to the south, near Yonutt, where there is a fine ridge not under 14,000 or 15,000 feet, rugged with spots of snow; the mountains to north of this are more rounded; slate and limestone abundant, but not a tree from the base of the 1st ascent. The ascent is very practicable, the road is made, or artificial in many places, soil soft and broken: there is water at seven miles from Sir-i-Chushme, and even at the foot of the 1st kotal, at least there are two or three of the usual villages; there is one with its wall demolished. Many granite blocks are strewed on the road. For ponies and horses, even laden, the road is very easy, but for draft it is difficult. We experienced a cold cutting west wind from 11 A.M. Grass is plentiful along all the moist spots, but it is useless as the camels prefer the Carduacea of this place, though a bad fodder for them.
Not much change was observed in the vegetation for half-way up the 1st kotal or ascent; willows and poplars continue to nearly one mile from the last village. Here and there along the ravine or streamlet, Salvia is very common, Senecionoides, Bubonoides on rocky ground, Sinapis, Verbascum decurrens used in the Himalayas for German tinder, Statice of Dund-i-Shere, Muscoides of yesterday, Urtica of Cabul, Malva rotundifolia, Hyoscyamus 1-labiat., Polygonum prostratum of shingly spots, Composita dislocata, Leucades, Boraginea, Boraginis fasciæ of before. About Kila Moostaffur Khan a coarse tufted grass, Centaurea oligantha common throughout, first found at Khilat-i-Gilzee; Onosma major, Cochlearia, Dianthoides. Chenopodium diclinum, villosa, Astragali 2-3, Cichorum, Linaria angustifolia, Euphorbia angustifolia, Marrabium, Hyoscyamus of Quettah, Testucoides annua appears about here, Epilobium minus, Rumex, Lactuca fol. cost. subtus spinosis, Melilotus, Silene angulata, Arenaria, calyce globoso inflato, Echinops of Cabul. The water plants are precisely the same as those of Cabul.
For new plants see Catalogue 980, etc.
Summit of 1st kotal Statice of Dund-i-Shere, Statice grandiflora, Dianthoides, several Astragali, one with the pinnulæ dentato serratis, petiola spinosa, a tufted Monocotyledonous plant with terete canaliculate subulate leaves, Salvia, Gramen alterum, Composita dislocata, Carduacea, this is the most common plant on the open rounded parts, while the others occupy the rocky sides of the hills. The vegetation is however very poor.
Cultivation various, as seen in different stages along the gorge up to the ascent. Thus, people are seen ploughing for the next year’s crops amidst stubble fields, and lucerne; but above and throughout the ascent, no crops are cut, while the wheat and barley on the descent are in the ear: mustard very common. Several encampments of what are badly called black teal, and paths are to be seen very frequently over the hills in most directions, together with flocks of sheep. A large road leading off to the south-west from the summit is seen; from this our road is well-marked.
29th.—Halted: every tillable spot is made use of about Yonutt, where there is a fort with forty families. The crops are chiefly wheat and a four-awned barley, the grain is fine though scanty, and the plants are of stunted growth. Ravens the same, round-tailed eagle as at Urghundee, and Percnopterus, wagtails, three kinds of Conirostres, and an Alauda are found here, one or two Sylviæ. The sward about this place is abundant, affords good pasturage for a few horses, and water is plentiful. This sward is chiefly occupied by a Leguminous Caraganoid shrub, rather thorny, and not unlike some species of Barberry in habit, this is abundant, and is first met with in the ravines beyond the Oonnoo pass, Cyperaceæ, viz. 2-3, Carices, small grasses, Leontodon, Astragaloid cærulens, Trifolium album, Composita corona, Cnicus acaulis, and Gentiana pusilla, compose the sward chiefly; in the drier parts of it there is a very fine Carduacea, which appears very local.
The hills about are all either clay slate, pure slate, or micaceous slate, the strata generally vertical.
Descended the ravine which the rivulet passes down, to where it joins the Helmund, the hills bounding it are of no great height, but the slips are sometimes bold. The Helmund runs between rocky cliffs, its bed not much broader than the stream, the water is clear, rapid, and the column considerable.
This gorge is picturesque, the sides being generally precipitous.
The plants of these hills are, Umbelliferæ very common, Statice 2, Carduacea, Ephedra, Labiatæ of Karabagh vel similia, Arenarioid out of flower in the crevices, a large Mattheoloid, Leucades, Dianthoides foliis undulatis, Artemisiæ two or three, one a peculiar one, No.--a shrubby Astragalus, stunted scraggy Polanisia of Cabul? Campanula of Karabagh in the bed of the stream, Cnicus of Kot-i-Ashruf, and Salvia are excessively common, Artemisia pyramidalis, two or three: mosses occur on the banks, and several Gramineæ, see Catalogue 1,005, etc. Cnicus alius, Verbascum.
30th.—We continued ascending gradually, crossing a low ridge covered with sward, and then descended to surmount another ridge, which appeared to me to be as high as the top of the Oonnoo. We thence descended, crossing several small ridges; and, at about the distance of five miles from the commencement of the day’s journey, suddenly turned north, entering a gorge of the usual structure, drained by a small stream, and thence came on the Helmund, not much increased in size as compared with the point at which we had seen it first, but in a comparatively wide and partly cultivated ravine, containing three or four ruined forts. We continued a quarter of a mile down the Helmund, then ascended up a considerable stream through a similar gorge, until we reached an encamping spot, after performing thirteen and a half miles. The barometer at the Helmund stood at 21.206, thermometer 63° in sun.
Kohi-Baba is first seen from the first ridge, but it is seen beautifully from the second, and still better from some distance beneath this; it is a noble three-peaked ridge, the eastern peak is the largest, and of angular, conical shape. The other two are rugged; the central one is perhaps the highest; the lower portions cliffy, evidently slaty.
The river up which we came after leaving the Helmund, is fully equal to that in size; it is very rapid: the ravine is very narrow, occasionally widening into swardy spots. We encamped nearly opposite Kohi-Baba, the conical peak of which here seems a huge rounded mass, with heavy patches of snow, particularly along the northern ridge: the second range to the south is very precipitous and cliffy: at this place a small streamlet falls into the river from the direction of Kohi-Baba.
No particular change in vegetation is observed: two or three Umbelliferæ, a Scrophularia, Geranium, Ranunculus aquaticus, Herba immersa, foliis anguste loratis, Potentilla, Panserina, a new Graminea.
The most common plants are still Carduaceæ and Salvia; Rosa occurs also, (Senecionoides ceased some time before) Statice, Scutellaria common, Verbascum, Euphorbia linearifolia, Linaria ditto, Mentha: no change in water plants, or in those of the sward, Chenopod. fæmin. villos, coarse grass, No. 998, common; the chief new feature is Ruwash, the dead red leaves of which are abundant. Two villages were passed after leaving the Helmund, both ruined, yet all spots cultivated, several with Cicer. Watercourses as high up cliffs and hills as 100 feet above the river.
A dreadfully cutting dry wind blows down the ravine, and in our faces all the way. Limestone cliffs occurred, about which the vegetation became rich, more especially near a bridge consisting of trees thrown across a narrow portion of the river, at a point where the stream is very deep; near this are two willow trees of a different species. A fine Rosa, a new Epilobium, Aconitum, Salisburifolium, a small Crucifera, one or two Compositæ, a curious Polygonum, a Rumex, a Dianthus, Silene, three or four Umbelliferæ, among which is the yellow Ferula? of the Kojhuk pass, two or three new Leguminosæ, Saponaria, Silenacea inflata, Cerastium may be found among them, or in the fields close by.
31st.—We ascended the high bank or cliff over the bridge, and continued up the ravine which lies over the river, but whose bed is too narrow for a road: we passed two or three villages, the road undulating over ground covered with granite boulders, or rather small masses, rounded only when exposed to weather; the bottom of each undulation is covered with sward and giving exit to a small stream; sometimes we came on the bed of the river. At six and a half miles we came on a fort, used as a custom house, and diverged again to the east up a ravine; the Arak road continuing along the river. We passed another fort, and then commenced the main ascent of Hajeeguk. In a ravine to the left, 100 feet above us, was a large mass of half frozen snow: barometer at the foot of main ascent 20.320, thermometer 80°. The ascent is rather steep, but easy enough: barometer 19.755, thermometer 80°. Thence the descent was steep for about 800 feet, and then gradual for four or five more, when we encamped on sward. From the top of the pass we had a beautiful view of the ridge of Kohi-Baba, running about WNW., presenting a succession of fine bold rugged peaks, the conical mass was not seen well, as there is heavy snow on it, and on some other parts of the ridge.
Water is plentiful in all ravines, the lower parts of which are covered with swardy grass. Cultivation is less advanced than at Yonutt, consisting chiefly of barley; every capable spot is made use of. Boulders of antimony, also a large mountain close to, and on the right of our camp composed of this ore, which is very heavy; a ruined fort on the hill near us, shewing again how some of these ridges become disintegrated. A cafila passed with huge loads of cloths of various sorts, carried on asses, going to Bamean: they paid toll I observed at Choky fort.
The vegetation in the snow ravine was rich, and varied in the swardy spots: Ranunculi 2, Swertia 2-3, Gentiana a fine one, Junci, Carices, Euphrasia, Triglochin, Veronica as before, Cardaminoides; near the snow in sward, a pretty Primula in flower; two other Pediculares. A Brynum on the dry parts of the ravine, two Astragali in flower 2-3, Cruciferæ, Echinops, Carduaceæ, Silene pusilla, Stellaria, Campanula odorata, Rutacea about springs, Parnassia? Astragali 3-4, in flower, long past this elsewhere, Thalictrioides, Secaloides.
See Catalogue Nos. --- of exposed face; Staticoides of Yonutt, Graminæ 998, Carduaceæ very common, Statice aliæ rare.
The hill over which the pass runs, is chiefly covered with a herbaceous Carduacea out of flower in profusion, one or two Astragali, an Artemisioid, small Compositæ, and the abundant Carduaceæ of Yonutt, Astragaloid pinnulis on the west side, Koollah hujareel, Statice, Macrantha dentatis; a spinous leaved Carduacea, different from the Zamea leaved ones out of flower, Gramin. 998 common, Chenopodioid? Arenaria spinosa, Onosma, Carduacea alia, two or three Astragalus primus. Altogether the vegetation is different from that of Oonnoo, in the comparative absence of Statice, Dianthoid, and Astragali.
Similar swardy spots occur on the west of the pass, a large Swertia, Caraganoid, Carices, etc. as before, Gentiana of Yonutt, a new Potentilla, Salix fruticosa; here also occurs the first Orchidea I have seen in Khorassan: it belongs to the tribe Orchis, but is out of flower. On the 1st of Sept., I re-crossed Hajeeguk, directing my way again into the snow ravine from the top of the pass, and found a number of plants, for which see Catalogue. A Campanula abundant about springs at 12,400 feet. The vegetation of the ravine close by the little fort is rich, and would repay two or three days’ halt, as it runs a long way up the antimony hill, Swertia in profusion, Geranium also, Stellaria, a fine Conyzoidia.
I had here an opportunity of observing the curious effect of a patch of snow in retarding vegetation, all the plants about, being as it were a spring flora, even such as at similar elevations elsewhere, were all past seed; such as Astragalus primus. Again, why do some plants flower sooner at such elevations than at other lower places? such as Cardamine, here past flower, but not commencing at Cabul; is it because this plant will flower in the winter in Cabul? so there may be a law requiring such plants to flower in wintery situations by a certain time? The idea is perhaps absurd, as their growth depends exclusively on the power of the sun.
September 1st.—After re-crossing Hajeeguk we continued our march to Sohkta, five and a half miles. The road continued along a considerable descent throughout, at first down the valley in which we had halted to the west, thence down the large Kulloo valley in a northerly direction; towards the mouth of first ravine or valley it is bad, passing across a land slip, then it crosses the bed of a huge torrent falling at a great rate, and obstructed with boulders; the right bank, a high almost precipitous mountain, the left a high aggregate of granitic and other boulders. Water abundant, divided into three streams or so: this torrent comes direct from the nearest portion of Kohi-Baba, which appears of easy descent, presenting beautiful peaks. The road then keeps along left bank, undulating over the ravines, down which water flows from the hills on the eastern side; some of these are very steep, and the road itself is infamous, as may be supposed, crowded with boulders, and impracticable for wheeled carriages: one precipitous ravine we passed through, the rocks consisted of blackish, curiously laminated, and metallic looking stone. On descending one steep ravine, we then came on the road leading up to the Kulloo mountain, where we halted.
A good many villages, with forts, as usual were passed; the cultivation more advanced than at our last halt, crops consisting chiefly of barley. One good fort was observed close to our halting place opposite the direction of the small Kulloo ravine; across the valley a well marked road is seen running up a part of Kulloo ridge, at a lower elevation than that which we crossed.
Poplars and willows occur in the large valley, particularly towards Sohkta, a small orchard of stunted mulberry trees. Cultivation consisting of peas; barley of fine grain, resembling wheat when freed from the husk.
The plants of the valley of Kulloo were badly observed, as I was greatly tired and fatigued. Polygonum fruticosum re-occurs, Silene, Clematis erecta, Tragogopon, Salvia but less common, a curious Cruciferous plant, Lactucacea purpurea of Cabul, Chenopodium villosum fæmin. Dianthus, Saponaria, Lychnis inflata, oats common in fields, the common thistle, Urtica, Caragana abundant along the bed of the river, Papaver. On rocks about camp, 2 Salsolæ, Glaucum, Umbelliferæ of the Yonutt ravine, Artemisiæ, Rosa Ribes! Scrophularia alia.
The valley is very narrow at camp, the river running between precipices, in some parts passable without wetting the feet.
2nd.—From Sohkta Kullar-Rood to Topehee, eight and a half miles. The road lay in a northerly direction for a quarter of a mile, then turning up a steep ravine, with an ascent for 800 feet; then small descent, then levellish, until we came to a black cliff, over which another steeper but longer ascent extended, then it became levellish for some distance; two other moderate, extended, longish ascents, led us to the summit, which is 500 feet higher than that of Hajeeguk. The descent continued steep and most tedious on reaching the precipitous ravine of Topehee, the road wound over small spurs, until we came to a grove of willows near the village. The road although steep is not bad, the soil being soft, that of the upper parts and of the descent, even annoying from the sand, both might with little trouble be made easy, but especially the descent.
The mercury of the Barometer on the summit at 11 A.M., stood at 19.513, at 11½ A.M., 19.506, Thermometer 66°.
The camels all came up but one, though very slowly; to them as to us, the descent was more tiring than the ascent.
From the summit a fine view of Kohi-Baba was obtained, running to NW. by N. To the NE., another high range, but not so marked as Kohi-Baba, was seen running in a similar direction; on this, two considerable peaks present themselves, but only visible when lower down.
A splendid view of the Bamean valley is here obtained. We have now obviously passed the highest ranges: to west where the country is low and flat; to the north, the mountains indistinctly visible, are beautifully varied, presenting rugged outlines 10,000 feet above Bamean, also a view of an unearthly looking mountain, most variedly sculptured, is obtained, with here and there rich ravines and columnar sided valleys, presenting tints very varied; in those of the lower ranges, rich rosy tints are predominant; also niches in which gigantic idols are plainly seen: also a view of Goolghoolla, looking as it is in reality, a ruined city: a fine gorge apparently beyond the Bamean river, and a large ravine due north, by which I expect the Bamean river reaches the Oxus; not a tree is to be seen, except a few about Bamean. The whole view is indescribably volcanic, barren yet rich, requiring much colouring to convey an idea of it.
To the top of the pass it is three and a half miles; the character of Kulloo mountain is different from that above described, it is rounded, and composed of a curious compact slate, towards the summit well covered with plants, large tufts of Statice, two or three kinds, two undescribed; immense quantities of Artemisia, coarse tufted grasses, Onosma, Carduacea herbacea of Hajeeguk, uncommon; Triticoides 998, not common; Alium fusco purpurea common. A few exposed rocks occur on the summit. The ravines are all dry, there being no water or very little in them, and no cultivation; thus the contrast visible on both sides of the Kulloo river which runs round the foot of the mountain, is remarkable. Vegetation being distinct on either side.
Yet the ravine of Topehee shows, that when exposed to the action of water, this rock becomes very precipitous, cliffy, easily dislocated: the latter part of the road winds over a portion of this. Chakor, Ptarmigan a fine bird, voice somewhat like that of a vulture, to which it is perhaps anologous.
About Sohkta or in ravines, Euphorbia linearifolia, Ephedra, Asteroides, Rosa Ribes, Composita dislocata, Artemisiæ, Aster pyramidalis, Chenopodium villosum fæm., Senecionoides.
Scutellaria, Scrophularia, Santonicoides, Polygonum fruticosum, Salvia, Artemisia linearifolia, Centaurea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Umbelliferæ of Yonutt, Stellaria, Glaucium, Labiata nova, Hyoscyamus minor, Lactucacea, Linaria, Salsola elegans, Marrubium, common thistle, Rumex, Potentilla anserina, Sinapis of Siah-Sung ravine, Berberis, Secaloides, Statice, Marmots, Statice glauca pedunculata, Stipha of Nakhood, Aconiti sp., Ferula? Spiræa facie frutex, Ribes, Muscoides.
First ridge Dianthoides, Statice three to two glaucous species, one sessile the other pedunculate, Ferula, Scutellaria, Labiata trumpet-shaped calyces, Astragali, Diacanthus, Stipa, Ribes, Arenaria spinosa, Triticum carneo pubescens, Pulmonaria corolla trumpet-shaped, Salvia sparingly, Pommereulla, Artemisia in profusion, Spiræoides, Chenopodium villos., fæmin. parvus, Leguminosæ two or three, Ruwash sparingly.
Not much change beyond 12,000 feet, at that height Glaucium in abundance, with a few Hyoscyamus parvus, Borago.
Labiatifol, inciso dentatis occurs throughout, Sinapis of Siah-Sung straggles to 12,000 feet.
The same vegetation continues down to Topehee; on the red hills over its ravine, the plants are different. Portulacea cana, several pretty Salsolæ, a Polanisia occurs, with Statice two or three, a straggling Astragalus, Ferula, Peganum re-appears! Cerasus canus, Carduacea Frutex of Mailmandah, fructibus combretiformibus, Muscoides which is a Sedum, Polygon. fruticosum common, the usual plants of cultivation, etc. etc.
3rd.—We proceeded from Topehee to Bamean, a distance of twelve miles, for two and a half miles down Topehee ravine. The road is a decent descent, although steepish: from thence turning abruptly at the Bamean valley, we cross the river, which is of considerable size, but fordable, although rapid. The road then extends along the left bank, not in the valley which is occupied by cultivation, but winding over and round the bases of low hills and cliffs, forming a northern boundary; throughout this part the road is villainous, often impeded by huge blocks. After a distance of about ten miles it improves, the valley expanding into a cultivated plain.
Topehee valley narrows towards its mouth or exit, which is walled in by high, red, raviny cliffs; above, in its upper parts it is well cultivated with beans, barley, wheat, and oats, and contains two villages: it opens into the Bamean valley at a village also called Topehee, there the Bamean valley is well cultivated, with oats intermixed with barley or wheat, trefoil, etc., it then narrows, forming the bed of a ravine occupied by Hippophæ, Tamarisk, etc., then it widens again.
The structure of the hills is curious, and generally exhibiting the appearance of having been much acted on by water. They are often cliffy, composed either of limestone or a soil of red clay, with which salt occurs in abundance, conspicuous from the white appearance, or springs. Crystals of carbonate of lime are frequent, limestone, or coarse conglomerate with large rounded stones, occurs; together with a curious laminated clayey rock, with white and ochraceous layers intermixed. The tints most various, as well as the sculpture of the mountains: here ravines representing tracery occur: there, columnar curiously carved cliffs, exhibiting all sorts of fantastic forms: here, as it were, a hill thrown down with numberless blocks into the stream, scattered in every direction; and here, but this is rare, very red horizontal strata, colours various, generally rosy, especially the clayey cliffs: here and there the colour of the rock is ochraceous, at one place its structure is slaty. The curious intermixture of these colours owing to the weather, is striking.
From the head of two of the ravines by which considerable torrents flow into Bamean river, beautiful views are obtained of the Kohi-Baba, whose peaks according to native authority, stretch sixty miles to the westward of Bamean, without much diminution in height. The scenery, however, is less beautiful after emerging into the widened part of the valley, where the hills are less varied both in form and tints, than they are in lower parts: fine views however of Kohi-Baba are occasionally had.
Salsolæ are the prevailing plants of the rocky sides of the valley, Clematis erecta common, here and there a small Statice.
Caves occur throughout the wide portion of the valley, but chiefly on the northern side; they also extend a little way into the narrow portion, where they seem to be excavated into clayey-looking, red, earthy limestone, or more commonly conglomerate, of coarse grey, or reddish colour.
The caves are most common in two cliffs composed of conglomerate mixed with transverse strata of the same rock, 3,400 feet high, presenting a rugged outline; and between the two, which are 800 yards apart, large idols are carved. These cliffs in some places have suffered little from the action of the elements, as testified by the perfect nature of the opening of the caves, and the corners, etc. of the niches enclosing idols; in others they are furrowed by the action of water; in others again slips have taken place to such extent in some, as to cause the fall of all their caves, or of their greater portion, thus exposing the galleries, etc.
The base of the cliffs is irregular, formed of the same conglomerate and clay, but covered more or less by boulders, evidently brought down by the river; by these many caves are choked up, so that originally the cliff might have been perpendicular to the edge of the base, and if so, the caves in the cliffs, and the idols, are of later date than those of the rugged base. But more probably the cliffs, and the caves, are much as they were originally, the boulders having been a subsequent deposit.
The western corner of the cliff beyond the large idol, is much destroyed; on this, the force of the current would have acted: a breakwater occurring along the returning face.
The caves are very numerous, but are confined chiefly towards the base of the cliffs, not scattered over them as I believe Burnes represents. These are of no size, finish, or elegance, and it is only their number, and the extreme obscurity of their history, that makes them interesting; the roofs are usually arched, and the walls are often supplied with niches, and covered with a coating of tar of some thickness, and intense blackness. The galleries are low, arched, and admit one person at a time, or a line of persons with ease; they often form the ascent to the upper caves now inhabited, but originally they were enclosed in the rock, they are defended in such cases by a parapet.
The largest caves are those about the idols, but I see none of any size. They are often domed, the spring of the dome is ornamented with a projecting frieze, some of these are parallelogramic, in one instance with an ornamented border thus.
Some of the caves are situated as high as, or even above the tops of the idols; all parts within the rock are lighted by small apertures.
Access to the large idol is destroyed; the smaller one is gained by a spiral staircase of rude construction, and by galleries. The floor of the galleries is rugged, the steps and the cement of the conglomerate having worn out from between the masses of rock. The images all occupy niches in the face of the hill: two are gigantic, the rest not very large. They are generally in the usual sitting posture, and rather high up, while the larger ones are erect, and reach the base of the cliffy portion of the rock. They are all male, and all obviously Boodhistical; witness the breadth, proportion, and shape of the head, and the drapery; both are damaged, but the smaller is the more perfect, the face of the large one being removed above the lower lip; the arms are broken off, showing they were occupied by galleries. The drapery is composed of plaster, and was fixed on by bolts which have fallen out, leaving the holes. The arms in the smaller one are supported by the falling drapery. The height of the large image in the niche is 135 feet.
The pictures are much damaged, the plaster on which they were painted being mostly very deficient, all the faces are damaged by bullets or other missiles: their execution is indifferent, not superior to modern Burmese paintings; the colours however are good, the figures are either grouped or single, and one is in the style of the time of Henry VIII, with a hat and plume, others represent groups flying—one a golden bird, another a man with a hemispherical helmet, all are much damaged. The hair in some is dressed as in the modern Burmese top-knot, often surrounded by a circle.
Otherwise the niches are not ornamented, except in one instance, as above alluded to; the head of the smaller figure was formerly covered by the roof, as evident from holes or troughs for timbers in the gallery. These holes are now inhabited by pigeons, and the lower ones by cows, donkeys, fowls, kids, dogs; some are filthy apertures blocked up by stone and mud walls; the doors irregular, and guarded between two giants.
An old tope occurs near some small figures, it is composed of stones very much disintegrated, with curious blocks of kucha work, and large Babylonish bricks; the smaller figures are much destroyed, some completely; all are in alto-relievo.
The plants about Topehee valley, are Cichorium, Centaurea lutea, Berberis common, Salvia, Cicer cultivated, Lucerne, Centaurea angustifolia, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf, ditto of Karabagh hills, Triticum, Asteroides, Avena, Centaurea glauca, the common thistle, Ephedra, Mentha, Rumex, Melilotus, Medicago, Artemisia pyramidalis, Lychnis inflata, Saponaria, Bromus, Verbascum, Cerasus canus, Ferula, Statice, Salsola, Astragalus, Polygonum fruticosum, Composita dislocata, Clematis erecta, Clematis alia, Echinops, Leucades, Pulicaria fragrans, Hyoscyamus parvus, rare; Geranium, Rosa, Fabago of Maidan, fructi echinatis, Arundo, Hippophæ.
Halted at Bamean till the 6th, and inspected Ghoolghoola or Bheiran, which presents extensive ruins: those of the city are almost destroyed; but those of the citadel are more perfect, and situated on a mound 300 feet high, which still stands with steep banks or fortifications, apparently of Kafir origin, generally kucha, with bases formed of boulders. Three lines of defences remain on the valley side; and the remains of a ditch 50 feet broad at the mound on the east side. Pucka, or burnt bricks are common among the debris, also pottery, but this is of the ordinary sort: I observed but few pucka bricks in the fortification on the west side. Great masses of rocks have been thrown about near the building of the fort, and some of the lower bastions were built on these masses. The mound is chiefly occupied by Salsolaceæ, some of which exist in profusion. Nothing seems to be known about the history of the place, except that it was built by Julal, to whom the Mahommedans fix Ud-deen.
Quails are abundant in the fields about Bamean; it is a curious thing that in many of these fields oats far preponderate over other grain; yet they are not cut, although all the seeds have fallen out of the ear! Can it be cultivated solely for the straw?
Fine groves of poplars occur about certain portions of the valley; from beyond this to the south, a beautiful view is obtained, embodying the cliffs with the large image, and the back hills whose varied surface and tints it is impossible to describe, so as to convey a correct idea of their fine effect. The poplar grove contains some ordinary Mahomedan tombs. The trees are the P. heterophylla, but the leaves are much smaller and more silvery underneath than usual; a beautiful poplar of large size and unencumbered growth, of the same sort occurs in the ravine beyond the small image. Abundance of wild sheep’s heads are preserved about all the sanctified buildings, together with a few of those of the ibex, and fewer of the wild goat. The plants of Bamean require no specification, the hills are very barren, chiefly occupied by Salsoleæ, of which 6 or 7 species occur.
The water plants continue the same as at Cabul; Hippurus and Triglochin, Mentha, Cochlearia, Naiad? Potamogeton of Siah-Sung, Polypogon.
The other plants are those found in cultivation, and present no change, Anchusoides alba, abundant. Choughs very abundant; wild pigeons, ravens, Laurus; the nuthatch, a noisy but not unmusical bird, Chakor, together with small partridges, but these are rare; several Conirostres.
The greatest curiosity is a genuine trout, [{404}] this appears rare, the spots are very bright, the largest caught was only six pounds in weight. I could not take any even with the fly; but I caught with this, Schizothorax, or one of the universal Khorassan Cyprins.
The range of the thermometer is great; before sunrise it varies from 28° to 30°! in the sun in midday it is 100°! when there is no wind, and the mornings are delightful.
One of the long-tailed clumsy Brachypodiums occurs in the fields: bears also are found here.
Joussa, Mentha, Tanacetoid, Polypogonum, Cichorium, Plantago, common thistle, Potamogeton longifolium, Labiata arvensis of Yonutt, Centaurea lutea, Cyanea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Hippuris, Ranunculus, Potamogeton pectinata, Triglochin, Convolvulus arvensis, acaulis, Glaux, Capparis of Arghandab, Centranthera pinnatifida, Malva rotundifolia, Asteroides, Lactuca purpurea.
Salt is obtained in some places from the red earth, as also alum an earthy substance of a whitish or brown colour, and irregular surface, sent in quantities to Mindosh, called Zak.
6th.—To Zohawk, down the valley two miles beyond the mouth of Topehee ravine, or embouchure of the Kulloo-Rood. The angle is occupied by a Kafir fort called Kojhuk, of very large size, situated on a precipitous dusky-red and very high rock, facing towards both rivers; the defences reach down the eastern face of rock to the Kulloo bed, and are in good preservation, more ornamented than the modern fort, and better proportioned. A pretty grass sward occurs here, with Tamarisk.
The fort must have been of great size, and is chiefly weak, i.e. to a native army, from depending on the river for supplies of water, for it is commanded from the opposite sides of either ravine. The bed of the river under the east face, presents the remains of outworks to protect the supply of water, which is perhaps a sign of its being a recent structure?
The works are good, much better than those of the Affghans, the view of the fort from half a mile down the Bamean river, with the sun gilding the ruined battlements, while the precipice contrasts with it its dusky-red colour, is beautiful.
The Bamean river, especially after receiving the Kulloo-Rood, is of considerable size, but fordable at the head of most of the rapids, its course is rapid, and its waters greyish, while those of the Kulloo are quite colourless; its bed is of some width, presenting a capital road over green sward, with plenty of willows, Lycium, Hippophæ, Berberis, and Tamarisk.
About one mile east of our camp, its ravine turns to the south. Wild ducks, quails, chakor, and trout occur whose haunts are in holes, and taking the worm are easily caught.
This fort of Kojhuk is as well worth examining as any place we have seen, the dusky-red rocks are coarse conglomerate. A violent wind prevails up the ravine, commencing about 2 P.M. A curious staircase situated at the corner towards Bamean, ascends through rock, the bottom of which is defended by a bastion and round wall; near, or close to this a slip has occurred, destroying part of the wall and blocking up one exit.
Ascended the cliff by the gateway of the Kulloo valley, and found the line of fortifications, with good loop-holes and parapets extend two and a half miles up, a few houses likewise occur. The path leads through the face of the solid rock: abundant defences, with arched buildings occur above: this cliff is almost totally separated from the upper citadel by a ravine: the citadel has four lines of defences surmounting a steep ridge with outworks on the Kulloo river, the bed of which is 60 yards broad.
7th.—Proceeded to Erak, six miles. We crossed the Kulloo-Rood, and immediately ascended its right bank, 100 feet high; then descended into the ravine up which we continued, then leaving it we struck over the spur of a high mountain; the ascent being about 1,000 feet, thence we commenced a steep descent, of 5,600 feet into the Erak valley, up which we proceeded for two miles distance and encamped. From the top of the pass, a fine view is obtained of Kojhuk, and the valley of the Bamean river, presenting a rich and varied surface beyond description, with beautifully sculptured rocks, of purplish-red colour, which are seen up the Kulloo, close to Kojhuk.
The hills and ravines are however very barren, nothing but Salsola occurs. At the top of the pass a section is partly laid open, shewing a mass of conglomerate, twenty to thirty feet thick, resting on red clay. This conglomerate being less acted on by water than the clay, the rocks often assume curious shapes, and are occasionally even fungiform.
We observed here a new partridge, at least one to which we were not accustomed; it is almost the size of chakor, black on the back, with a grey neck, and very shy; chakors abundant here in coveys. The valley of the Erak is very narrow, but well cultivated, and with a good many villages.
All the mountains in this direction have rounded shapes or outlines, the precipices variously curved, the surfaces are thus formed by the action of water on the outer strata; when this is once exposed, the changes appear often rapid, as may be imagined in a country of such low winter temperature. Caves occur in the Erak valley, chiefly situated in a dirty white conglomerate.
8th.—Halted and encamped eight miles up the Erak ravine on a swardy spot: the road easy, ascent bad in some places, but generally good, particularly for the latter part of the march: the rocks in some places rising in abrupt rugged cliffs, generally rounded, slaty. We passed one mass of snow about two miles from camp, botany good, especially about the snow; so much so, that it employed me all day.
Caragana appears at about 10,000 feet, a Tamerioid of large stature in abundance, Asphodelus, not as I thought a Mesembryanthemum, but a beautiful and very distinct species; see Catalogue for other plants.
Our camp is within one and a half mile of the head of the Erak ravine, where snow occurs in two large masses; patches of snow also occur on the ridge or a little below it; these ridges rise about 1,200 to 1,500 feet above us.
Unsettled evening, snow during night on all the ridges about us with frozen sleet in camp. Thermometer at 6 A.M. 31°.
Large round-tailed eagle seen.
Barometer 20.164, thermometer 61°; boiling point of Wollast. new thermometer; barometer 650, old ditto 555.3.
Swardy plants. Parnassia, Swertia, Gentiana, Carices, Composita coronata, Primula, Labiata, Menthoides, Caprifoliacea! Pedicularis, Umbelliferæ.
Plants of hill sides Asphodelus, Leguminosæ alter, a Nakhood Moschata, Nakhood Labaria violacea, Mulgedioid, Euphorbia, Astragalus prior, alter., Pedicularis, Onosma versicolor, Boraginea, stamens exserted.
9th.—Proceeded to Kurzar, eight miles up a ravine to the left or eastward, about one and a half mile, then the steep ascent of the pass; thence the descent was as steep for 800 feet, then gradually down a swardy ravine until we came to the Kurzar ravine, which we followed till we reached the Choky. The road good; the ascent for 1,000 feet is very steep, the soil good, hills rounded, here and there slate rocks outcropping. No change in vegetation. Passed a mass of snow: abundance of snow on the summit where the mercury in the Bar. stood at 19.200; thermometer 58°; boiling point of Wollast. new thermometer; Bar. 648.5, old 539.1, this being the highest spot we have visited.
The vegetation of the summit presents no change from that of the rocks and hill sides 1,500 feet below. There is a good deal of vegetation, Carduaceæ, Statices, Astragali, a few tufted grasses forming the great bulk, Nakhood rare on the Kurzar side, 500 feet down, Statice becomes most abundant, it is curious that on the sward of this side, neither Fumariaceæ, nor Campanula were observed, Silene fimbriata one species.
Caragana all about, even at Kurzar in ravines; Primula abundant, also Swertiæ, generally all four plants are found at the Hajeeguk snow ravine, and may be found between this and Erak, with some interesting novelties. The distance to Bamean by both routes is within two miles of the same, the Kulloo-Rood being the shorter, but Hajeeguk the best road. That of the Kulloo river is followed to Zohawk. The weather unsettled with showers of hail, clouds and sunshine: and heavy gusts of wind occasionally from Kohi-Baba, whose eastern extremity comes in sight after entering the Kurzar ravine. No view from the summit of the pass.
Pedicularis, Campanula, Rubiaceæ, Hippuris in flower, Phleum, Carduacea of Yonutt, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf, Pulmonaria, corolla tubiform. Euphorbia linearifolia, Composita dislocata, Cardamina lutea.
10th.—Proceeded to the Helmund, thirteen and a half miles; the only novelty met with is a curious spring about half-way between Siah-Sung halting place, and the Helmund consisting of limpid water emitting a copious ebullition of gas, not water, as the overflow is very small; a copious deposition of fine red earth is formed all round, which looks especially bright in the springs themselves. The water possesses a peculiar acid taste.
Quails abundant, especially about this place, the water of the Helmund is very clear and affords excellent fishing with worms which are greedily taken, and also with the fly, particularly towards evening, by a species of Gonorhynchus.
11th.—Returned to the foot of the ascent of the Oonnoo, nine miles: nothing new having been met with, except that Kohi-Baba is seen to great advantage, from the higher ridges of this pass. On going to Bamean we saw it for the first time from the ridges beyond Yonutt, badly from the first, but beautifully from the second ridge. The weather continues as usual threatening in the evening, clearing up after sunset: there is less snow on Kohi-Baba now than when we went.
12th.—Proceeded to Sir-i-Chushme, eight miles, which was one continued descent. Passed Killa Moostaffur Khan, built by a Kuzzilbash; it is the prettiest fort in the country. The common Carduacea disappears below 9,500 feet, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf commences here.
Temperature of the spring at Sir-i-Chushme, 55° (1½ P.M.); that at Kallo, on the other side of Hajeeguk, 45°.
All crops are cut, and the ground ploughed or preparing; in one place the young wheat is springing up; but the country generally looks very brown, and the hills small. Abundance of black teal. Plectranthus reappears at the foot of Oonnoo, Verbascum rare, if any, on the Tartary side of the Hindoo-koosh. Abundance of Loaches or Balitora in the streamlets arising from the springs.
13th.—Proceeded to Julraiz, eight and a half miles, having passed a waterfall, as well as abundance of people going to Jallalabad. Bar. 22.760 at noon; Ther. 75°.
14th.—Proceeded to Koti-Ashruf, where there is excellent fishing with worms, the fish however did not take a fly, though they often appeared at the surface: a large headed Silurus occurs, but I was unable to procure a specimen.
15th.—Proceeded to Arghundee, where we met the Bamean force.
16th.—Proceeded to Topehee Bashee.
17th.—Returned to Cabul. Eryngium is rare between the foot of Oonnoo and Moostaffur Khan’s fort.