Drap d'Été.—Allied to Cashmere in weave, but heavier.
Dresden.—A small unobtrusive design in pastel colourings.
Drills.—Drills are strong, heavy, warp-faced fabrics woven from yarns of good quality with a three (two warp and one weft), four (three warp and one weft), or five (four warp and one weft) end twill weave. When so woven they are known as Florentine Drills, of which the khaki Drill so often met with in the Colonies is a good example. Drills are also woven with a warp sateen weave which have—as the twill effect is done away with—a smooth surface.
Drills may be either linen or cotton fabrics, grey or white, bleached or dyed, printed or striped. They average 40 yards in length per piece and vary in weight from under 10 to 12¾ pounds or over per piece and 31 inches in width. The name is from the Latin trilex, of three threads, and is applied to a "three-thread twilled cloth." Cotton Drill is a medium weight single cloth weighing from 4 to 6 ounces and composed of all-cotton yarns, warp, and filling, and is generally woven as a three-end twill-weave fabric.
Drillette.—This is a cotton fabric, finer and lighter in make than the ordinary cotton Drill. Drillette of 30-inch width is imported into Colonial markets, where it is largely used for linings and pocketing.
Duchesse.—A satin fabric having the back woven in flat twills, with a smooth surface.
Duck.—Duck is a heavy single-cloth cotton fabric made of coarse two-ply yarn of plain weave. Lighter than Canvas, Duck is woven on the same principle as Canvas. Duck on leaving the loom is finished by washing and sizing, drying and pressing; this gives the finished material a peculiar, hard, stiff feel. There are linen Ducks, but they are specially designated as Linen Ducks, the term Duck being used to denote the cotton variety.
Better qualities of Duck, such as are used for tropical suitings, are woven with a two-and-two matt dice or Hopsack weave. The term "two-and-two" means that two weft threads pass alternately under and over two warp threads, exactly as if a plain weave had been doubled and the weave worked with two threads instead of one; the plain weave is often termed a one-and-one weave. [See Cotton Duck].
Dungaree.—A stout cotton warp-faced twill cloth woven as a four-end twill from coarse-count warp and weft. The only difference between this fabric and a Denim is that in the latter the weft is grey, whereas in a Dungaree both the warp and the weft have been dyed prior to weaving. Dungaree, being a warp-faced material, has the warp on the surface, and as both warp and weft are dyed yarns, the cloth, when woven, shows a solid coloured surface.