Duplex Prints.—Fabrics which have one set of patterns printed on the face of the cloth and another different pattern or design printed on the reverse side are generally styled Duplex Prints. They differ from fabrics which have been printed in colour on one face, but in such a manner that the printed pattern has soaked through and shows—though less sharply—on the back of the fabric. The Duplex Print is the result of two distinct printing operations, first on one side, then on the other side, of a fabric. This being the essential condition for a Duplex Print, it follows that the two patterns need not be different. Fabrics printed on one side only, but in such a way that the design shows equally or nearly so on both sides, are not Duplex Prints.
Dyeing.—This term is used to describe the colouring of materials to enhance their value and appearance. There are five methods of producing colour in the fabric:—
| 1. Raw material dyeing. | 4. Mixed dyeing. |
| 2. Yarn dyeing. | 5. Piece dyeing. |
| 3. Cross dyeing. |
Unless the process is specially mentioned when a fabric is spoken of as "dyed," it can be taken that what is meant is that the fabric was "piece-dyed," i.e., dyed in the piece after being taken off the loom. A dyed fabric is one which has been impregnated with some colouring matter and this irrespective of the means adopted to so impregnate it. Whether the fabric once woven has been allowed to—
1º. Remain in a dye vat soaking up dye, or
2º. Whether it has been drawn through a series of troughs containing dye (Continuous or Pad-dyeing process) with a view to its absorbing the dye—
is immaterial. Where both sides of a fabric are equally coloured, and where a fabric shows that there has been thorough saturation, that fabric is said to be dyed.
Dyed and Printed.—This term is used to designate any fabric which has been first impregnated with colouring matter either by being vat-dyed or pad-dyed, and which in addition has been ornamented by having certain designs impressed on the surface of the fabric in either one or more colours. This is known as direct printing. Fabrics may be dyed and printed by various styles of printing, such as "Discharge," which consists of printing chemicals upon dyed fabrics in designs, the chemicals causing the dye to come out wherever applied, leaving the printed design either white or in a different colour from that of the dyed ground. "Resist" or "Reserve" style of printing is a process used to obtain white figures on a coloured ground. In this process the designs are printed in substances that are impervious to the dye into which the cloth is subsequently placed. The cloth is dyed, but all parts covered by the resist agent remain white.
Dyed Alpacianos.—This fabric is found grouped in the Revised Import Tariff for the Trade of China under "Dyed Cottons."