CONTENTS

PAGE
Preface[vii]
Introduction[xix]
CHAPTER I

The British Ornithologists’ Union—Members of the Expedition—Voyageto Java—Choice of Rivers—Prosperity of Java—Half-castes—ObsequiousJavanese—The Rijst-tafel—Customs of theDutch—Buitenzorg Garden—Garoet

[1]
CHAPTER II

Expedition leaves Java—The “Nias”—Escort—Macassar—Raja ofGoa—Amboina—Corals and Fishes—Ambonese Christians—DutchClubs—Dobo

[13]
CHAPTER III

New Guinea—Its Position and Extent—Territorial Divisions—MountainRanges—Numerous Rivers—The Papuans—The Discoveryof New Guinea—Early Voyagers—Spanish and Dutch—JanCarstensz—First Discovery of the Snow Mountains—WilliamDampier in the “Roebuck”—Captain Cook in the “Endeavour”—Naturalistsand later Explorers

[21]
CHAPTER IV

Sail from the Aru Islands—Sight New Guinea—Distant Mountains—SignalFires—Natives in Canoes—A British Flag—Natives onBoard—Their Behaviour—Arrival at Mimika River—Receptionat Wakatimi—Dancing and Weeping—Landing Stores—View ofthe Country—Snow Mountains—Shark-fishing—Making theCamp—Death of W. Stalker

[35]
CHAPTER V

Arrival of our Ambonese—Coolie Considerations—Canoes of theNatives—Making Canoes—Preliminary Exploration of theMimika—Variable Tides—Completing the Camp—A Plague ofFlies—Also of Crickets—Making “Atap”—Trading with theNatives—Trade Goods

[50]
CHAPTER VI

Difficulties of Food—Coolies’ Rations—Choice of Provisions—TransportingSupplies up the Mimika—Description of the River—ADay’s Work—Monotonous Scenery—Crowned Pigeons—Birds ofParadise and Others—Snakes, Bees, and other Creatures—Rapidsand Clear Water—The Seasons—Wind—Rain—Thunderstorms—Halley’sComet

[65]
CHAPTER VII

Exploration of the Kapare River—Obota—Native Geography—RiverObstructions—Hornbills and Tree Ducks—Gifts of Stones—Importanceof Steam Launch—Cultivation of Tobacco—SagoSwamps—Manufacture of Sago—Cooking of Sago—The DutchUse of Convict Labour

[82]
CHAPTER VIII

Description of Wakatimi—The Papuan House—Coconut Palms—TheSugar Palm—Drunkenness of the Natives—Drunken Vagaries—OtherCultivation—The Native Language—No Interpreters—TheNumerals—Difficulties of Understanding—Names of Places—LocalDifferences of Pronunciation

[95]
CHAPTER IX

The Papuans of Wakatimi—Colour—Hair—Eyes—Nose—Tattooing—Height—Dress—Widows’Bonnets—Growth of Children—Preponderanceof Men—Number of Wives—Childhood—Swimmingand other Games—Imitativeness of Children—The Searchfor Food—Women as Workers—Fishing Nets—Other Methods ofFishing—An Extract from Dampier

[109]
CHAPTER X

Food of the Papuans—Cassowaries—The Native Dog—Question ofCannibalism—Village Headman—The Social System of thePapuans—The Family—Treatment of Women—Religion—WeatherSuperstitions—Ceremony to avert a Flood—The Pig—AVillage Festival—Wailing at Deaths—Methods of Disposal of theDead—No Reverence for the Remains—Purchasing Skulls

[124]
CHAPTER XI

Papuans’ Love of Music—Their Concerts—A Dancing House—Carving—Papuansas Artists—Cat’s Cradle—Village Squabbles—ThePart of the Women—Wooden and Stone Clubs—Shell Knives andStone Axes—Bows and Arrows—Papuan Marksmen—Spears—Amost Primitive People—Disease—Prospects of their Civilisation

[141]
CHAPTER XII

The Camp at Parimau—A Plague of Beetles—First Discovery of theTapiro Pygmies—Papuans as Carriers—We visit the Clearing ofthe Tapiro—Remarkable Clothing of Tapiro—Our Relations withthe Natives—System of Payment—Their Confidence in Us—OccasionalThefts—A Customary Peace-offering—Papuans asNaturalists

[155]
CHAPTER XIII

Visit of Mr. Lorentz—Arrival of Steam Launch—A Sailor Drowned—OurSecond Batch of Coolies—Health of the Gurkhas—Dayaksthe Best Coolies—Sickness—Arrival of Motor Boat—Camp underWater—Expedition moves to Parimau—Explorations beyond theMimika—Leeches—Floods on the Tuaba River—OverflowingRivers—The Wataikwa—Cutting a Track

[169]
CHAPTER XIV

The Camp at the Wataikwa River—Malay Coolies—“Amok”—ADouble Murder—A View of the Snow Mountains—Felling Trees—Floods—Villagewashed Away—The Wettest Season—TheEffects of Floods—Beri-beri—Arrival of C. Grant—Departureof W. Goodfellow

[184]
CHAPTER XV

Pygmies visit Parimau—Description of Tapiro Pygmies—Colour—Hair—Clothing—Ornaments—NettedBags—Flint Knives—BoneDaggers—Sleeping Mats—Fire Stick—Method of making Fire—Cultivationof Tobacco—Manner of Smoking—Bows and Arrows—Villageof the Pygmies—Terraced Ground—Houses on Piles—VillageHeadman—Our Efforts to see the Women—Languageand Voices—Their Intelligence—Counting—Their GeographicalDistribution

[196]
CHAPTER XVI

Communication with Amboina and Merauke—Sail in the “Valk”to the Utakwa River—Removal of the Dutch Expedition—Viewof Mount Carstensz—Dugongs—Crowded Ship—Dayaks and LiveStock—Sea-Snakes—Excitable Convicts—The Island River—ItsGreat Size—Another Dutch Expedition—Their Achievements—Housesin the Trees—Large Village—Barn-like Houses—NakedPeople—Shooting Lime—Their Skill in Paddling—Through theMarianne Straits—An Extract from Carstensz—Merauke—Tradein Copra—Botanic Station—The Mission—The Ké IslandBoat-builders—The Natives of Merauke described—Arrival of ourThird Batch of Coolies—The Feast of St. Nicholas—Return toMimika

[209]
CHAPTER XVII

Difficulty of Cross-country Travel—Expedition moves towards theMountains—Arrival at the Iwaka River—Changing Scenery—TheImpassable Iwaka—A Plucky Gurkha—Building aBridge—We start into the Mountains—Fording Rivers—Flowers—Lackof Water on Hillside—Curious Vegetation—Our highest Point—Awide View—Rare Birds—Coal—Uninhabitable Country—DrearyJungle—Rarely any Beauty—Remarkable Trees—OccasionalCompensations

[229]
CHAPTER XVIII

Departure from Parimau—Parting Gifts—Mock Lamentation—Rawlingexplores Kamura River—Start for the Wania—Losethe Propeller—A Perilous Anchorage—Unpleasant Night—Leavethe Motor Boat—Village of Nimé—Arrival of “Zwaan” withDayaks—Their Departure—Waiting for the Ship—Taking Leaveof the People of Wakatimi—Sail from New Guinea—Ké Islands—Banda—Hospitalityof the Netherlands Government—LieutenantCramer—Sumbawa—Bali—Return to Singapore and England—Oneor two Reflexions

[246]
APPENDIX A

Notes on the Birds collected by the B.O.U Expedition to Dutch NewGuinea. By W. R. Ogilvie-Grant

[263]
APPENDIX B

The Pygmy Question. By Dr. A. C. Haddon, F.R.S.

[303]
APPENDIX C

Notes on Languages in the East of Netherlands New Guinea. BySidney H. Ray, M.A.

[322]

Index

[347]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

(Except where it is otherwise stated, the illustrations are from photographs by the Author.)

A Tapiro Pygmy

[Frontispiece]
FACING PAGE

Near the Mouth of the Mimika River

[4]

A Convict Cooly of the Dutch Escort

12

A Malay Cooly from Buton

[12]

Dobo, Aru Islands

[20]

Camp of the Expedition at Wakatimi (Photo by C. G. Rawlingand E. S. Marshall)

[48]

A House for Ceremonies, Mimika (Photo by C. G. Rawling andE. S. Marshall)

[48]

Making Canoes

[50]

Canoes, Finished and Unfinished

[54]

Making “Atap” for Roofing

[60]

Papuan Woman Canoeing up the Mimika

[64]

Jangbir and Herkajit, (Photo by C. G. Rawling and E. S. Marshall)

[68]

Hauling Canoes up the Mimika

[70]

Typical Papuans of Mimika

[74]

Upper Waters of the Kapare River

[82]

Vegetation on the Banks of the Kapare River

[86]

Papuan Woman carrying Wooden Bowl of Sago

[90]

Papuan Houses on the Mimika

[96]

Papuan of the Mimika

[100]

Papuan of the Mimika

[100]

A Papuan Mother and Child

[106]

Cicatrization (Photo by C. G. Rawling and E. S. Marshall)

[112]

Papuan with Face Whitened with Sago Powder

[112]

Women of Wakatimi

[114]

Papuan Woman and Child

[120]

A Papuan of Mimika

[128]

A Papuan of Mimika

[134]

Disposal of the Dead: A Coffin on Trestles

[139]

Splitting Wood with Stone Axe, (Photo by C. G. Rawling and
E. S. Marshall)

[148]

A Tributary Stream of the Kapare River

[159]

Typical Jungle, Mimika River

[178]

At the Edge of the Jungle

[182]

Camp of the Expedition at Parimau

[184]

The Camp at Parimau: A Precaution against Floods

[188]

The Mimika at Parimau: Low Water

[190]

The same in Flood

[190]

A Tapiro Pygmy

[196]

Making Fire (1)

[200]

Making Fire (2)

[202]

Wamberi Merbiri

[204]

A House of the Tapiro

[206]

Mount Tapiro from the Village of the Pygmies

[208]

Types of Tapiro Pygmies

[212]

A Papuan with Two Tapiro

[216]

Natives of Merauke

[226]

Looking up the Mimika from Parimau

[232]

Bridge made by the Expedition across the Iwaka River

[234]

Looking West from above the Iwaka (Photo by C. H. B. Grant)

[238]

Cockscomb Mountain seen from Mt. Godman (Photo by C. G.
Rawling and E. S. Marshall)

[238]

Supports of a Pandanus

[242]

Buttressed Trees

[246]

Screw Pines (Pandanus)

[250]

At Sumbawa Pesar

[252]

Near Buleling

[256]

COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS