Fish naturally most voracious, [145]. As a diet wholesome and palatable, [146]. Fish rarely served as an entrée in England, [146]. Various ways of serving turbot in France, [146–7]. Turbot of Mediterranean, [148]. Sturgeon, [148]. Caviare, [149]. French modes of dressing sturgeon, [149]. Modes of dressing sturgeon in England, [149]. Sturgeon à la Napoleon, according to Carème, [150]. American sturgeon soup, [150]. Salmon, [151]. French mode of dressing salmon, [151]. Nonnius on salmon, [152]. Cod-fish, [152]. Galen on haddock, [152]. Nonnius and Pliny on haddock, [152]. The sole, [153]. French modes of dressing, [153]. Red mullet, [154]. Red mullet en caisse, and à la Cardinale, [154]. John Dory and lamprey, [154]. Quin, the actor, [154]. Receipts for dressing lamprey, [155]. The Reformation and fish diet, [155]. Carème on lenten diet and Murat’s kitchen, [155]. Fish dinners in Paris, [157]. Dinner at the Rocher de Cancale, 1828, [157]. Wine at 14 frs. and 25 frs. the bottle, [158–9].
CHAPTER IX.—The Roast.
Definition of roast, [160]. Rôtisseries, [161]. Rôtisseurs, [161]. The traiteur, [161]. The cuisinier traiteur, [161]. The maître cuisiniers, [162]. The art of roasting, [162]. The best joint for roasting, [163]. Doing to a turn, [164]. Good roasters rarer than good cooks, [164]. Great and little roast, [164]. English, roasting, [165]. Our game finer than the French, [165]. Swift’s lines on mutton, [166]. Rules for roasting pork, lamb, veal, and poultry, [167]. Table of time for roasting, [169].
CHAPTER X.—Boiling.
Rule as to boiling, [170]. Advantage of slow boiling, [172]. Time required to boil poultry, [173]. Frying, [173].
CHAPTER XI.—Poultry.
Definition of poultry, [174]. Requisites in a poultry yard, [174]. Best modes of feeding and cramming poultry, [175]. Wholesomeness of poultry, [175]. Lémery on fowls and capons, [176–7]. How the fine flavour is given to the poularde du Mans, [178]. The barn-door fowl described by Berchoux, [179]. Roast and boiled fowl and turkey, [180]. Ways of serving fowls and turkeys in France, [180]. Entrées of fowl in France, [180–1]. Schools of cookery, [181]. Christmas consumption of turkeys in England and France, [181]. Truffles with turkey, [181]. Chaptal on fowls, [182]. Pros and cons for a dinde aux truffes, [182]. Were turkeys known to the ancients? [183]. Madame de Sévigné on capons, [183]. The crammer of fowls an officer of the royal household, [184]. Blackbirds and thrushes, [184].
CHAPTER XII.—Game and Pastry.
Definition of game, [186]. Keeper and taker of pheasants, [186]. Swanherd, [186]. 17 Hen. VIII., falconry, [187]. Cookery Book of Taillevant, cook to Charles VII.; receipts for dressing herons, [187]. Vultures, eagles, and falcons, eaten three centuries ago, [188]. Game in Spain, partridges à la Medina Cœli, [189]. Sautés, filets, and recondite modes of dressing game in France, [190]. Filets and cutlets of hare and rabbit, [191]. Pastry and cold entrées, [191]. Carème on pastry, [192]. Suggestions as to patties and pastry, [193]. Pâtisserie, [194]. Larks of Pithiviers, [194]. Partridges of Perigueux, [194]. Poulardes of Angers, [194]. Foies gras of Versailles, [194]. Foies d’oies of Strasbourg and Toulouse, [194]. The Chancellor de l’Hôpital on petits pâtés, [194].
CHAPTER XIII.—Cheese and Salads.