Soft and rich cheeses the best, [196]. Stilton and Gruyère, [196]. Best English cheeses, [196]. Best cheeses in France, [198]. Roquefort, [198]. Gruyère, [198]. Italian cheeses introduced into France in the reign of Charles VIII., [199].
CHAPTER XIV.—On Salad.
John Evelyn “On Salets,” [202]. Fournitures of salads, [202]. Chicorée, [203]. Winter salads, [203]. Roman or Coss lettuce, [204]. Hotchpotch salads, [204]. Salade à l’italienne, [204]. Carème’s salade de poulets à la Reine, [204]. Wine vinegar to be used for salads, [206]. Chaptal’s receipt for dressing salad, [206]. Sydney Smith’s ditto, [206–7]. Spanish proverb as to salad, [207]. D’Albignac a famous salad-dresser, [208]. Eleven salads of the time of Champier, [210–11]. Dr. Roques’ salad of asparagus, [211]. Quickness with which asparagus may be cooked, [211]. Napoleon’s salad of haricots de soissons, [212].
CHAPTER XV.—The Dessert.
Carème’s opinion of dessert, [213]. La Chapelle’s opinion of dessert, [214]. Forced cherries sent from Poitevins, in 1560, to Paris, [215]. La Quintinié, head gardener of Louis XIV., served strawberries in March, peas in April, and figs in June, [215]. Preserved pines at dessert in Paris, in 1694, [215]. Italian liqueur prepared from the pine, [215]. Dates, [216]. Tunisian dates the best, [216]. Oranges, [216]. Fondness of Louis XIV. for, [216]. Portuguese oranges, [217]. Sweet citron, carried by ladies, to produce red lips, [217]. Figs common at dessert in France 270 years ago, [217]. Fig-trees placed in wooden boxes by the gardener of Louis XIV., [218]. Figs at Worthing and Hampton Court, [218]. Pomegranates, [218]. Chestnuts, [219]. Madame de Sévigné on chestnuts, [219]. Cherries, [220]. Apricots, [220]. The reine claude, or greengage, [221]. The peaches of Corbeil, of Troyes and, Dauphiné, [222]. Pêches de vigne, [223]. Abricots en plein vent, [223]. The New-town pippin, [223]. Golden pippin, [223]. The paradis de Provence, [223]. The capendu, [223]. Pears and their different species, [224]. Gooseberries, [224–5]. The chasselas of Fontainbleau, and other grapes, [225]. Strawberries and their varieties, [226]. Trois mendiants, [227]. Olives of Provence and Languedoc, [227]. Gingerbread, [228]. The drageoir, [229]. Brandied fruits and compotes, [229]. Brillat Savarin on the dessert, [230]. Melon eaten with bouilli, [231]. Madame de Sévigné on melons, [232].
CHAPTER XVI.—On Ices.
Ices, [233]. Turks had glacières in 1553, [233]. Henry III. first introduced ice, [233].
CHAPTER XVII.—Coffee.
Coffee, [235]. Drank in Paris in 1657, [235]. Praises of coffee by Rousseau, Buffon, Voltaire, Montesquieu, Delille, and Lebrun, [236]. The retreat from Russia and coffee, [237]. Twining’s coffee, [238]. Brillat Savarin on pounded and ground coffee, [238]. The best coffee in Paris, though the finest qualities in the London market, [240]. Modes of making coffee, [241–3]. Coffee sweetmeats, [242]. Dr. Roques’ café à la creme frappé de glace, [243]. Coffee should be hot, clear, and strong, [244]. Tea, [244].
CHAPTER XVIII.—On different Liqueurs, Ratafias, and Elixirs, taken after Coffee.