The Leave Area
IT was a master mind that first conceived the idea of sending tired soldiers away from the shattered havoc of war and the incessant routine of camp life, to find rest and recreation. The most beautiful and historic places in France, left untouched by battle’s fire, were selected and opened as Leave Areas. Had the Young Men’s Christian Association done no other bit for the American Expeditionary Forces except equip and maintain these Leave Areas in France, it still would have done a colossal piece of work, fully justifying its operations in France. It was a work for which thousands and thousands of soldiers are deeply grateful. Whatever criticism or prejudice relative to the Young Men’s Christian Association was in the minds of the soldiers as they entered the Leave Area, they went away its most enthusiastic supporters. There, more than anywhere else in France, perhaps, they had opportunity to see below the sordid and selfish spirits of individuals who might unfortunately represent it, to the heart of the Association itself. They could realize there that the fundamental principles of the organization were right, no matter how poorly interpreted through its workers.
The first of these Leave Areas to be opened was at Aix-les-Bains in the region of the Savoie. Savoie itself is one of the most pleasantly pastoral spots in Europe. The country with its rugged mountains often snow-clad; its quiet little river-villages everywhere; its Old World customs, original and unique, suggested peace and rest. It was so near many of the interesting things that men had read about in history and geography, but never, for the most part, expected to see—so full of historic associations and traditions that one could forget for the time the dead cities, villages, and men strewn over other parts of France. Savoie is wonderfully exhilarating with its mountain air, beautiful lakes and medicinal waters of world-wide fame. Everywhere the eyes roamed, they rested upon mountains. There were the Swiss Alps just forty miles to the East, the Italian Alps the same distance toward the South, and the French Alps close at hand in every direction. Even before men left the trains or “side-door Pullmans,” as they nicknamed the freight cars in which they so often rode, they were filled with the wonder and charm of the country into which they had come. For the first time they were finding the real France, and it was life-giving after dwelling for so many months in those parts that were filled with evidences of the enemy’s unspeakable crimes.
It was in this region that the first Leave Area was opened for American soldiers in February of 1918. From that time until June, 1919, from five to six thousand soldiers came each week for an ideal vacation. So successful was this Leave Area region that others were opened at Nice, and many other beautiful places of Southern France.
It was at Christmas time of 1918 that the Paris Headquarters of the Y telegraphed Mr. Wallace, the Regional Secretary of the St. Nazaire Area, asking for the loan of Mrs. Curtis and Mrs. Hunton for six weeks. They were needed to open two Leave Areas for colored soldiers. One of the demands of war on welfare workers as well as soldiers, was that they be ready to “pack up roll” and move on short notice. So that after seven months of service at the port, they were to be moved. Mrs. Hunton desired to go, because for many weeks she had been serving white soldiers almost exclusively. They treated her with great respect and helped her to prepare and serve as colored boys had done. As they marched away from camp, they sang for her, cheered for her chocolate and crullers and left little tokens of affection, and while she had served them with a warm and willing heart, always she would be thinking, there are only three colored women in France for all the colored soldiers, and one of them serving white soldiers. She communicated her feelings to the understanding spirit who at that time headed the Women’s Department of the Y work in France, and was told to stick to her post and a change would be made as soon as possible. But when the time really came, it was not so easy to go. It meant leaving the thousands of men whom she had served for those months, and with whom she had kept in constant touch although they were in the other camps of the area. There was the lovely French family—Monsieur et madame, les deux tantes, la chat blanc et le bon jardin—with whom she had lived for seven months. She had been worshipped into feeling a part of all their charming life. But both Y women reported to Paris and were ordered to Aix-les-Bains for assignment. There Mrs. Curtis was sent to Chambery and Mrs. Hunton to Challes-les-Eaux. These places had been in operation since the preceding summer. Colored troops had already visited there, but now they were to be sent in larger numbers and those two resorts were to be used exclusively for them. In the meantime, Messrs. Stevenson and Sadler were also asked to report. Mr. Stevenson was assigned to the Challes-les-Eaux Casino, but Mr. Sadler was unable to get release from the Chaumont region where he had so long directed a large and important work. When we first reached the Leave Area, and for several weeks thereafter, it was still occupied by white troops. In January of 1918, with Mr. William Stevenson as Director and Mrs. Hunton, Directress, at Challes-les-Eaux, and Mrs. Curtis, Directress at Chambery, a new epoch for the colored soldiers on leave began. There, as in other places, the colored women served alone, endeavoring to do the work that had occupied a large staff of white women secretaries. From time to time men arrived to help with the work until there was a staff of five men at each place. But in the Leave Area, more than any other place, much of the work was that for which women are peculiarly fitted. The Chateau or Casino must be kept clean and sweet, with cheerful decorations; appetizing menus arranged; American dishes made familiar to French help and prompt service given; teas, parties and hikes planned and still they must have lots of time left in which the men could talk to them. But for nearly four months these two women worked alone, each in her building, until finally other women arrived and shared the service. Each week from January until late May, a thousand to twelve hundred colored troops reached the Savoie Leave Area, and were divided between Chambery and Challes-les-Eaux. The men lived in the many surrounding hotels, but found the largest part of their life and entertainment with the Young Men’s Christian Association.
1. The Village of Myans with Mt. Granier. 2. Dinner on the Grounds at Challes-les-Eaux. 3. Mr. Stevenson and Mrs. Hunton with Staff, at Challes-les-Eaux. 4. The Chateau of the Dukes of Savoie at Chambery.
A brief description of Savoie, with its leave centers, will no doubt be interesting, because in most instances, it was the one bright spot in the soldier’s whole “overseas” life, and because so much of his pleasure there was derived from the natural beauty of the country.
Savoie, like Alsace-Lorraine, has been a pawn in the hands of contending peoples many times in its history. From French to Italian and from Italian to French again—back and forth—it has passed as the fortunes of war have dictated. With the division of the great empire of Charlemagne, Savoie fell into Italian hands. It went to General Berold of Saxe in 1008 and at that time was laid the foundation for the royalty that has come down through the centuries as the House of Savoie, and of which the present King of Italy is a member. Since the Treaty of Turin in 1860, Savoie has been a part of France. This frequent change of government has produced a peculiar blending of French and Italian in architecture and life, and adds greatly to the charm of the region.