Aix-les-Bains, not only the most important town of the area, but one of the most famous health resorts of the world, is a striking example of this blending. French chateaux on the mountain sides and Italian villas by the lake, give it a charming setting. In the city itself one is carried back many centuries by its Arch of Campanus, old Roman Baths, Temple of Diana, Museum and the Grottoes.
This Arch of Campanus is believed to date to the third century A. D. Older still are the Roman Baths that are supposed to have been built one hundred and twenty-four years before Christ. This was always one of the most interesting places to the soldiers on leave. There one sees remains of the not very ancient methods of these ancient Romans for bathing, and even the remains of a large swimming pool. Nothing is more interesting in Aix-les-Bains than its Temple of Diana, built probably about the same time as the Roman Baths and in which is housed the museum. The foundation walls of this temple are more than twelve feet thick, and the stones are of enormous size. In one corner of this old Greek temple is inserted a Gothic window of interest because of its delicate beauty and purity of style, but not a part of the original architecture. The Grottoes, with the three springs that have defied union, are always a source of wonder. There are to be found hot alum, hot sulphur and cold water springs turning out over two million gallons of water each day. With lighted candles one follows the many windings and descents of the flowing waters. It is very hot but very interesting. One sees the place where some engineers, two of whom were killed, made an ineffectual effort to unite the waters of these springs.
From things ancient, we come to look at those more modern. There are the thermal establishments that have made Aix-les-Bains world famous as a health resort. We are told that this city, with a native population of less than ten thousand, always had within its boundary prior to the war, about thirty thousand visitors. The sedan chairs in which the visitors rode about the city are as numerous as those that are moved up and down the board-walk at Atlantic City. Many Americans frequent Aix-les-Bains, and the soldiers were always shown the chair and bathing apartments reserved for Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.
At Aix-les-Bains the Young Men’s Christian Association had its activities in the Casino—one of the most luxurious and spacious places of amusement on the Continent. With a beautiful garden on one side and an imposing entrance on the other, this Grand Cercle, as it is called, was the Monte Carlo of France until the war came. It has a fine theatre, seating a thousand people; a sumptuous ball-room, grand salon and many other rooms, beautiful with their mosaics, rich carvings and stained glass windows. All of these were put to use for the entertainment of the soldiers.
1. Secretarial Group at Challes-les-Eaux. 2. The Lady of Myans—“Black Madonna.” 3. The Elephants at Chambery. 4. The Cross on Mt. Nivolet. 5. Statue Jean Jacques Rousseau at Chambery.
Chambery is hardly less interesting than Aix-les-Bains. Surrounded by mountains, with the cross on Nivolet dominating all the rest, with its quaint stores, streets and houses, it is indeed picturesque. One follows the rue de Boigne with its old arcades and beautiful stores from the Fontaine des Elephants up to the Chateau des Ducs de Savoie. It is an imposing structure with its monument to Joseph and Xavier de Maistre on the stairway. The finest part of this chateau is its chapel with its remarkable Gothic architecture, ancient windows and fine paintings. Just across from this chateau was the Y, a charming building, beautifully furnished and always lively with music and good cheer. One delighted in looking on the soldiers sitting by the open fire in its large, but home-like salon. Chambery has interesting churches and parks. Perhaps the most interesting thing connected with this town is the fact that for so long it was the home of Jean Jacques Rousseau. In what Americans would call the suburbs of Chambery, we find the home of this much persecuted poet-philosopher. It is called “The Charmettes” and is carefully preserved with its original furnishings. At the entrance is a French inscription which may be translated as follows:
“Hovel by Jean-Jacques inhabited.
You remind me of his genius.
His solitude, his proudness