Manual of the apiary

by Albert John Cook

Fig. 31.

The mechanic may prefer to bevel the ends of the boards, and unite them by a miter-joint ([Fig, 33]). This looks a little better, otherwise is not superior to the other method. It is difficult to form accurate joints—and as everything about the hive should be accurate and uniform—this style is not to be recommended to the general apiarist. To miter with a hand-saw unless one is very skillful, requires a perfect miter-box, and, even then, much care is required to secure perfect joints. With a buzz-saw this is easier. We have only to make a carrier as follows: Take two boards ([Fig, 31. a, b]), each one foot in length, and dove-tail them together, as though with two others you meant to make a square box. Be sure that they form a perfect right-angle. Then bevel the ends opposite the angle, and unite these with a third board ([Fig, 31, c]), firmly nailed to the others. We thus have a triangular pyramid. Through one of the shorter faces make longitudinal slits ([Fig, 31, d]), so that this can be bolted firmly to the saw-table. In use, the longer face will reach the saw, and from thence will slant up and back. Along the back edge of this a narrow board ([Fig, 31, e]) should be nailed, which will project an inch above it. This will keep the board to be beveled in line with the carrier, and will retain the right angles. Of course the boards for the hive must be perfect rectangles, and of just the right length and width, before the bevels are cut.

Such a carrier ([Fig, 31]) I ordered for my Barnes' saw, from a cabinet-maker. It was made of hard wood, all three joints dove-tailed, and nicely finished, at a cost of $1.50.

In sawing the ends and sides of the hive, whether by hand or with a buzz-saw, use should be made of a guide, so that perfect uniformity will be secured.

THE BOTTOM BOARD.

For a bottom board or stand ([Fig, 32]), we should have a single one-inch board ([Fig, 32, b]) just as wide as the hive, and four inches longer, if the bees are to enter at the end of the hive, and as long, and four inches wider, if the bees are to enter at the side. This is nailed to two pieces of two by four, or two by two scantling ([Fig, 32, a, a]). Thus the hive rests two or four inches from the ground. These scantlings should extend at one end eight inches beyond the board, and these projections be beveled from the edge of the board, to the lower outer corner of the scantling. Upon these beveled edges nail a board ([Fig, 32>, d]), which shall reach from the edge of the bottom board to the ground. We thus have the alighting-board, whose upper edge should be beveled, so as to fit closely to the bottom board. If the hives are to be carried into a cellar to winter, this alighting-board ([Fig, 31, d]) had better be separate, otherwise it is more convenient to have it attached. It may be made separate at first, or may be easily separated by sawing off the beveled portion of the scantlings.

Should the apiarist desire his bees to enter at the side of the hive, the scantling ([Fig, 32, a, a]) should run the other way, and the alighting-board ([Fig, 32, d]) should be longer, and changed to the side. I have tried both, and see no difference, so the matter may be controlled by the taste of the apiarist.

Fig. 32.