Manual of the apiary

by Albert John Cook

For an opening to the hive ([Fig, 32, c]), I would bevel the middle of the edge of the bottom board, next to the inclined board. At the edge, this bevel should be three-quarters of an inch deep and four inches wide. It may decrease in both width and depth as it runs back, till at a distance of four inches, it is one-half an inch wide and five thirty-seconds of an inch deep. This may terminate the opening, though the shoulder at the end may be beveled off, if desired.

With this bottom board the bees are near the ground, and with the slanting board in front, even the most tired and heavily-laden will not fail to gain the hive, as they come in with their load of stores. In spring, too, many bees are saved, as they come in on windy days, by low hives and an alighting-board. No hive should be more than four inches from the ground, and no hive should be without the slanting alighting-board. With this opening, too, the entrance can be contracted in case of robbing, or entirely closed when desired, by simply moving the hive back.

Some apiarists cut an opening in the side of the hive, and regulate the size by tin slides or triangular blocks ([Fig, 29]); others form an opening by sliding the hive forward beyond the bottom board—which I would do with the above in hot weather when storing was very rapid—but for simplicity, cheapness and convenience, I have yet to see an opening superior to the above. I think, too, I am a competent judge, as I have at least a half-dozen styles in present use.

I strongly urge, too, that only this one opening be used. Auger holes about the hive, and entrances on two sides, are worse than useless. By enlarging this opening, we secure ample ventilation, even in sultry August, and when we contract the entrance, no bees are lost by finding the usual door closed.

Some of our best bee-keepers, as Messrs. Heddon, Baldridge, etc., prefer that the bottom board be nailed to the hive ([Fig, 39]). I have such hives; have had for years, but strongly object to them. They will not permit a quick clearing of the bottom board, when we give a cleansing flight in winter, or when we commence operations in spring, which, especially if there is a quart or more of dead bees, is very desirable. Nor with their use can we contract the opening in cold weather, or to stop robbing, without the blocks ([Fig, 29]), tins or other traps. Simplicity should be the motto in hive-making. The arguments in favor of such fastening are: Convenience in moving colonies, and in feeding, as we have not to fasten the bottoms when we desire to ship our bees, and to feed we have only to pour our liquids into the hives.

Of course, such points are not essential—only matters of convenience. Let each one decide for himself, which experience will enable him to do.

THE COVER OF THE HIVE.

The cover ([Fig, 33, a]) should be about six inches high, and like the lid of a trunk. The length and breadth may be the same as the body of the hive, and fit on with beveled edges ([Fig, 33]), the body having the outer edge beveled, and the cover the inner. If we thus join the cover and hive with a mitered-joint, we must not be satisfied with anything less than perfection, else in case of storms, the rain will beat into our hives, which should never be permitted. Such covers can be fastened to the hives with hinges, or by hooks and staples. But unless the apiarist is skilled in the use of tools, or hires a mechanic to make his hives, it will be more satisfactory to make the cover just large enough ([Fig, 29]) to shut over and rest on shoulders formed either by nailing inch strips around the body of the hive, one inch from the top, or else inside the cover ([Fig, 29]). If it is preferred to have a two-story hive, with the upper story ([Fig, 33, b]) just like the lower ([Fig, 33, c]), this ([Fig, 53]) may join the lower by a miter-joint, while a cover ([Fig, 33, a]) two inches high, may join this with a similar joint.

Fig. 33.