The sound of strange instruments informed us that we were near our destination. A military band of about fifty were playing Oriental airs, half wild, half melodious. We were conducted through a garden towards an elegant maison de plaisance, leaving the horses at the entrance; some of them, not being partial to music, began fighting and kicking. It took nearly an hour to pacify them and make them behave themselves. They were horses of different nations, and this was probably the reason why they could not agree.
Several were lost, which gave a little extra occupation to the Asiatic palfreniers. By this time we had all been received by the Governor of Asia Minor and his numerous friends, who were sitting upon divans in the open air, smoking chibouques. We were invited to do the same, which we did, forming a circle of considerable circumference. A regular forest of long chibouques was brought towards us, and one was presented to each guest. We were thus, for the third time, obliged to enjoy this everlasting Oriental splendour; but in lieu of coffee, raki was introduced, a liquor somewhat similar to perfumed gin, or the French absinthe. It more particularly resembles the latter, as it turns white when mixed with water. It is much drunk in Turkey—usually before dinner. Many prefer it neat, but it is very intoxicating. The usual salutations having been exchanged, we all drank, and the glasses were taken away by slaves.
After smoking another half-hour, I went to Mr. Dixon, Lord W. Paulet’s dragoman, and asked him to request permission of the Pacha for me to see the kitchen. As I knew that two whole sheep and two lambs were to be roasted, I felt anxious to see the process. He had no sooner mentioned my wish than the Pacha rose, and, offering me his hand, conducted me towards the place where the sacrifice was being consummated. We were thus again, as at Scutari, hand-in-hand, if not hand-and-glove. About forty cooks were at work preparing the dinner. I felt much interested in their primitive way of roasting large pieces, which can only be equalled by gas. With the intestines they make a kind of black pudding, sausages, and rolls of tripe, with which they surround the neck of the animal: they have also skewers of tripe and liver, heart, &c., tied on each side of the haunch. The Pacha ordered some to be cut off for me to taste, which I did with great gusto, and really much approved of their sound judgment in turning everything to advantage, and making additional dishes of what we civilized people so cleverly throw away. It was so good, that I begged the Pacha to send a small dish up for Lord W. Paulet and a few others to taste, as it was best while very hot. It had a peculiar aromatic taste which imparts a delicate flavour, and was very palatable.
The liver, which we of course use, was cut into small portions, and mixed with the intestines. The lambs were dressed in the same way, and were still more delicate: they were so perfectly roasted, that every part of the animals was the colour of a lump of gold.
ORIENTAL WAY OF ROASTING SHEEP AND LAMBS WHOLE,
À LA TURQUE.
Though a primitive method, it is far from being a bad one. About a hundredweight of wood is set on fire in an open place, yard, kitchen, or elsewhere, and when burnt the ashes are piled up pyramidically to about the length of the lamb. Four stones, about a foot high, are then placed two at each end, and about eighteen inches from the fire; the lambs are spitted, head and all, upon a long piece of wood, with a rough handle similar to that of a barrel-organ. They are then put down; each one being turned by one man, who now and then moves the ashes to revive the fire, at the same time basting the lambs with a bunch of feathers dipped in oil. A pan should be placed underneath to receive the fat. This was on this occasion omitted. Each lamb took about three hours doing by that slow process; but I must repeat, they were done to perfection, and worthy of the attention of the greatest epicure.
The productions of the other culinary dainties are duly noticed in the following gigantic bill of fare.
Cavvat alle sis ka-babby
Yeade ra-dash yor nesee
Terbelee partsha
Vegetables.
Dolmah asmae a back
Ahgem ka back yah ne see
Arabertan ham yersee
Ser kresheur kap a massee
Patlezan dol massee
Cavarta yah prai il ha doline
Bag silk massee
Guvetts tu lur soo
Eskaille keftee
Pelaffee
Puff borree
Adgec ah med borro
Bad am lee charsa
Confiture.
Baclava
Ecmeck card aikae
Yur mur tarla lock moh
Kavanne
Hi varta cleasee
Touh cleuksu
Evgbet pupered by Jorept Zetala
Parson fruture
Peti parta ougrah
Cutalette
Pura patat assause espariol
Crab miones
Puopon mohoness
Cram alla vanneil
Cram ah coffee
Vn espeak derubea
Eurotee despadree
Glass oh citrone
Glass alla cream
Turk cook mahamet
Prissole
Sarmagoll
Cheverma cugickabby
Surmah pelich ka-babby
Capammah ordack parlazee
Coccorrets ka-babby
Fassula illa tuge ka-babby
Cavoticla ahmet ka-babby
Kahoat he la sahe slam ka-babby
Kultug dol massy
Tuga yaha ne see
Sham keflasee
Rahat lokoum
Amidst a clump of trees, situated on a plot of grass, and though so close at hand, quite out of sight, a large marquee had been erected, under which an elegant banqueting-table was covered with choice fruits, flowers, pastry, valuable ornaments, and sweets of all kinds. Each guest had his place numbered. I was fortunately near the centre, facing the chairman, and only two from the worthy host. The tout ensemble was charming: the various costumes, profusion of light, and the Turkish music, gave such a novel feature to this liberal entertainment, that, for the first time, I began to understand the reality of the Oriental luxury so much vaunted by poets.
Wine, though abominated by the Moslem, flowed in profusion. Excellent Bordeaux, Champagne, Madeira, &c., was freely passed round and quaffed with gusto, to the number, I should say, of several gross of bottles. The children of the Crescent drank as freely as ourselves. The sheep and lambs, dressed up whole, were placed upon the table, and every guest helped himself à la Turque. The meat was pulled from the animal by the Hadji Bachi, with his fingers, in presence of the company, placed in a large dish, and handed round to the gourmets, who also helped themselves with their fingers. The lamb was admirable; an Apicius would have gone to Turkey to dine, had he known such delicacies were to be obtained there. That worthy left Rome in a vessel, specially chartered by him, to go to Greece, in order to obtain some crayfish rumoured to be larger than any Rome could produce. On arriving, he found they were only the same. He asked the fisherman, who had been some time expecting him, “Have you never caught larger crayfish than that?”