Red Mullets vary very much now, but the beginning of the season was formerly the 12th of May; we had none this year except at a very extravagant price. I always use them when they are to be obtained.
Fresh Herrings are in season from November to January.
River Eels all the year round.
Lobsters in the spring and part of the summer. Prawns ditto.
Crabs are best in May.
Oysters begin in August, but are not very good till September.
Barrelled Oysters begin on the 15th of September, and last till the end of February.
Barrelled Cod, Lent fish, are best in winter or about March.
Sprats come in about the 8th of November.
Crawfish is a very favorite dish of the greatest epicures of France, and also of a few of the English; the author regrets that in fulfilment of an agreement between himself and M. Sampayo he is restricted from giving the receipt of Crawfish à la Sampayo, which has appeared in his Bill of Fare, No. 609. The reason of the enormous expense of this dish is that two large bottles of truffes du Périgord, which do not cost less than four guineas, are stewed with them in champagne.