In roasting much depends upon the fire which requires to be solid and to throw out a great heat, as it is always easy to keep anything a good distance from it, but a bad fire would be the destruction of anything placed before it, for if you had a couple of good fowls or a brace of birds, and were to put one down before a slow fire and the other before a brisk, you would be so astonished at the difference in flavour that did you not know different you would declare that one was of an inferior quality; I am also very much against the improper manner of basting, which would give any birds or poultry the appearance of having been first roasted and afterwards stewed; I have never during the last six years suffered any bird to be basted in my kitchen with the exception of rubbing a piece of butter over the breast of poultry or game as soon as the skin becomes set; any kind of game or poultry is done when you perceive a great smoke arising from it, and if not taken up immediately you lose the flavour and the bird its appearance, for instead of going to table nice and plump it will present a mean and shrivelled object, loudly bespeaking the cook’s inattention, unless it has been kept in a screen or hot closet, by the party having kept the dinner waiting.
By following the above simple method great benefit will be derived in this simple branch of the art, but the most universally useful, for I think we may say without hesitation that near two thirds of our animal and volatile food is daily roasted, which has made me so desirous of impressing the necessity of attention, which is all that is required to roast well.
No. 939. Roast Turkey au Cresson.
For second course a turkey should be very small and well trussed, the breast thrown out, the sinews of the legs cut and the feet chopped off, run a skewer through the pinion of the right wing, passing it beneath the thigh-bones and through the pinion of the left wing, run your spit through the body, passing it between the skewer and the back-bone, and tie the legs upon a rest (made by folding a thick piece of carrot about two inches long and one broad in buttered paper) upon the spit to keep the legs upon a level with the thighs; have a good clear fire, put down the turkey at a short distance from it, five minutes after it is down rub it over the breast a minute with a piece of butter which being hard and cold you have pressed into a large wooden spoon, (made with a very long handle, by which means you can rub it over the bird whilst turning without approaching too near the fire,) about a quarter of a pound would be sufficient for six or eight; then place it a little further back, (according to the heat and size of your fire,) the butter will form a froth over it; if the skin should blister you must put it still further from the fire, keep it of a nice gold colour, and when done serve with gravy in the dish and garnish with nice fresh water-cresses.
A turkey weighing five pounds will require about three quarters of an hour to roast, and so on in proportion, but one of that size is quite large enough for a roast second course; but if before a small fire an hour and a quarter, or if a larger turkey an hour and twenty minutes.
No. 940. Turkey Barded.
Truss a turkey as described in the last, have a square piece of fat bacon the eighth of an inch in thickness and large enough to cover the breast, upon which tie it with packthread; roast and serve as in the last, taking away the packthread but leaving the bacon; it will require a little longer to roast as the bacon prevents the fillets from being done so soon.
No. 941. Turkey Larded.
Lard the breast of a young turkey as you would a noix de veau (No. 565), (only cut the bacon finer), to facilitate the larding, dip the breast in a stewpan of boiling water, or pass it a minute over the flame of a charcoal fire to set the skin to the flesh, place it down to roast but do not butter it over the larded part; serve with gravy and water-cresses in a dish as before.