Trim and dispose the saddle-back as follows: saw the centre bone of the back as far as the saddle, dividing it but not cutting the meat or making a hole through, then with a small saw divide each joint, so as to admit of the necks being cut into chops in carving, when well separated take a piece of a good length from the ends of the rib bones, trim the flaps, turn them under, fixing them with skewers and string, giving the proper shape as the design represents, pull the skin from the whole back, melt two ounces of butter, which rub over with a paste brush to give a good appearance and let remain five or six days previous to roasting, weather permitting. To roast, pass a long saddle-of-mutton spit through the spinal-marrow-bone, bringing it out at the ends of the necks, fix it to a larger spit, and place at a good distance from a moderate fire for nearly three hours; avoid basting, but a quarter of an hour before taking up shake a little flour mixed with some finely-ground rice over, which is very good for a little change. This joint looks very noble, and does not appear too large when roasted. For a small dinner a saddleback of Welsh mutton or lamb will make a very fine remove. To carve, commence by passing your knife down the back where nothing but the meat and skin holds it together, and from thence crosswise to the flap, serving a cutlet and a slice between to each person, continuing the same way through the saddle; you will thus carve the meat according to the grain, and produce fresh hot gravy for each person as you proceed carving. Should any remain, it is fit either to be sent cold to table or dressed otherwise advantageously.
No. 11. Saddle of Mutton. Procure a fine saddle of mutton, about fourteen pounds in weight, that has been kept some time, take off the skin with a knife, and skewer the flaps under, run a lark-spit through the spinal marrow-bone, which spit affix to a larger one, and place down to roast as directed for the saddle-back; it will require about an hour and three quarters roasting, and must be carved as in the last.
No. 12. Leg of Mutton. A leg weighing eight pounds would take about an hour and a half roasting; run the spit in under the thigh-bone and bring it out at the knuckle, roast it as described for the haunch, and send to table with a frill upon the knuckle.
When I have a leg of mutton to roast in my kitchen I make a small incision at the knuckle two or three days before roasting, in which I put two or three cloves of garlic, it will give the mutton a fine and peculiar flavour, not at all resembling the strong, and to some objectionable, flavour of garlic. I frequently serve it with haricot beans under it, dressed as directed (No. 1094).
No. 13. Shoulder of Mutton of seven or eight pounds weight will require about one hour roasting; run the spit in at the flap and bring it out at the knuckle, observe the same directions as before, not basting, but merely rubbing it over with the butter.
No. 14. Loin of Mutton. A loin weighing six pounds would require an hour to roast; take off all the skin with a knife, and separate the joints with a chopper, not cutting through the fillet; run a lark-spit through from one extremity to the other and affix it to a larger spit, observe the same directions in roasting as for the haunch. This is a very favorite dish of mine at home, where I in general joint it with a meat-saw so as to enable me to carve it into thin slanting chops, which look so much more inviting in the plate than those huge pieces which are generally carved.
No. 15. Neck of Mutton. This I call a very recherché little joint when well kept; it must be nicely trimmed, sawing through the bones at the tips of the ribs, which detach from the meat, folding the flap over; saw off the chine-bone, and with a knife detach the remainder of the bone from the fillet, detach the skin from the upper part, fix the flap under with a couple of skewers, run a long flat iron skewer through the centre, from one extremity to the other, fix it to a larger spit, roast (if weighing five pounds) nearly three quarters of an hour, observing the same directions as before, carve it crosswise, cutting it in cotelettes, one of which, with a bone, serve to each guest.
No. 16. Boiled Leg of Mutton. Cut the knuckle from a leg of mutton which has been hung some time, put into an oval braising-pan well covered with cold water, in which you have put two ounces of salt, place it upon a sharp fire until boiling, when skim well, and place it upon the corner of the fire to simmer about two hours, that is, if the leg does not exceed more than nine pounds in weight; about half an hour before it is done add a dozen turnips, peeled and cut into quarters, when done take it up, dress upon a dish with the turnips around, place a frill upon the knuckle, pour nearly half a pint of the liquor it was boiled in over, and serve with caper sauce (No. 67) in a boat. Observe, in boiling any description of meat, fast boiling would not cook it any quicker, but cause it to eat very hard and bad.
At home I have tried to cook them by placing them in the water whilst boiling, and when again beginning to boil drawing it to the corner of the fire; it certainly saves a little time, but does not eat so tender as when put into cold water. I generally there mash turnips and serve them separately (I do not like them plain and watery, although I consider they must be much more wholesome). Place the turnips when boiled into a stewpan, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, two ounces of butter with which you have mixed half a tablespoonful of flour, and four tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, mix all well together over the fire with a wooden spoon. For caper sauce I mix a tablespoonful of flour with an ounce of butter and put it in a smallish stewpan, add half a pint of the liquor the mutton was boiled in, stir over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when add a quarter of a tablespoonful of salt, quarter that quantity of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a good spoonful of drained pickled capers; then add another ounce of butter, shake round over the fire, and when melted it is finished. I sometimes also add a spoonful of liaison, it gives it a rich colour.
No. 17. Shoulder of Mutton (boiled). Choose a very tender one, weighing about seven pounds, cut off the knuckle, and boil it as above; one hour and a half would be sufficient.