For the saddle, skewer the flaps underneath, curling each one round, run a lark-spit through the spinal marrow-bone, and fix it to a larger spit; place a sheet of buttered paper over, and roast an hour and a half before a good fire, dress upon your dish and serve as for the fore-quarter.
No. 26. Fillet of Veal. Choose it of the best quality, as described at the commencement of this series. Procure a leg, saw off the knuckle, take out the bone in the centre of the fillet, and fill up the cavity with some stuffing made as directed (No. 127), fold the udder and flap round, which fix with three skewers; place half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper top and bottom, which tie over and over with plenty of string, run a spit through, fixing the fillet with a hold-fast, set down to roast, placing it rather close to the fire ten minutes, rub well over with butter, then place it at least two feet and a half from the fire, to roast very slowly, giving it a fine gold colour; a fillet weighing sixteen pounds would require three hours roasting, when done, take it up, detach all the string and paper, trim the top and set it upon your dish; have a pint of melted butter in a stewpan upon the fire, to which, when boiling, add four spoonfuls of Harvey sauce, and two of mushroom catsup, mix well, and pour round the fillet; have also boiled nicely an ox-tongue, which skin and trim, dress upon a dish surrounded with greens or cabbage nicely boiled, and serve as an accompaniment to the fillet.
In my small kitchen I, however, content myself with a nice piece of streaked bacon, of about two pounds in weight, boiled and served surrounded with greens or turnip-tops if in season. For the different modes of dressing the remainder, see the Entrées, Kitchen at Home.
No. 27. Loin of Veal. Procure one with plenty of fat and a nice kidney in it, cut off the chump, take away the rib-bone at the other extremity, and fasten the flap over the kidney with a skewer, run a spit through lengthwise (not too thick a one), commencing at the thickest end, and fixing it at the other extremity with a hold-fast, tie it up in a sheet of oiled paper; if weighing fourteen pounds it will require two hours and a quarter to roast, serve with sauce and tongue, or bacon, as in the last, upon a separate dish. At home I usually content myself with the chump, as taken from the loin, either roasting or boiling it, should it weigh four pounds it would require an hour roasting, or an hour and a quarter boiling; if roasted, serve with bacon and the same sauce as for the fillet, but if boiled I make half the quantity of sauce as for boiled leg of mutton, but omitting the capers, and adding a spoonful of roughly-chopped, fresh, green parsley. Dress the remains the second day as directed in the Entrées, Kitchen at Home.
No. 28. Breast of Veal. Procure a nice breast of veal, which trim as directed (No. 455), stuff the interior with a long roll of stuffing (No. 127), roll the flaps over and sew it up with a trussing-needle and string, place it upon a spit, running it through lengthwise, and roast one hour and a quarter as directed for the loin, serve with the same sauce, and bacon and greens separate. The breast of veal stewed is also good, but for the details I must refer to the Removes in the first part of this work. At home I stew them, and add a few heads of celery with the stock it is stewing in, which I afterwards dress round the veal, and make a little white sauce similar to No. 7, with some of the liquor it was stewed in, or thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour, and add a gill of milk.
No. 29. Shoulder of Veal. A shoulder weighing fourteen pounds would require two hours and a half to roast, and three hours to boil, serve with a parsley and butter sauce if boiled, or if roasted, with sauce as for the fillet; bacon and greens must be served with it separate, whichever way it is dressed.
Should you boil the shoulder add a few vegetables, and you may reduce the stock it was boiled in to a glaze (by continual boiling), which will be very serviceable in dressing the remains upon following days; by boiling a calf’s foot with the shoulder you would produce a much greater quantity of glaze.
No. 30. Neck of Veal is usually served as the shoulder, either roasted or stewed, with vegetables, but I have described a number of methods of dressing it in the Removes of the first department of this work.
No. 31. Knuckle of Veal is a very favorite dish of mine; I procure two of them, which I saw into three pieces each, and put into a stewpan with a piece of streaked bacon two pounds in weight, four onions, a carrot, two turnips, and six peppercorns, place over the fire, and when boiling add a little salt, skim well, and place at the corner to simmer gently for two hours, take up, dress them in your dish surrounded with the vegetables and bacon, and serve with parsley and butter over; very good soup may be made from the stock it was boiled in if required, or if not, into glaze, which put by until wanted.
No. 32. Leg of Pork. Choose the pork as described at the commencement of this series, if a leg, one weighing about seven pounds, cut an incision in the knuckle near the thigh, into which put a quantity of sage and onions, previously passed in butter, sew the incision up with packthread, score the rind of the pork in lines across, half an inch apart, place upon a spit, running it in just under the rind, and bringing it out at the knuckle. If stuffed the day previous to roasting it would improve its flavour; roast, if weighing seven pounds, about two hours and a half, and serve with apple sauce in a boat.