“I have frequently heard of a ‘Potage aux nids d’oiseaux,’ we call it in English, birds’-nest soup; it is said to be of the most astonishing delicate substance.”
“I shall shortly have the pleasure of entertaining you upon that subject; we will now return to our new ‘plat d’entrée.’”
Drawn by the frivolous fancy of fashion and folly of the times; why, I thought, should not I endeavour to make myself as ridiculous as any other person; I therefore submitted to the proprietor of a large china establishment a drawing, from which he executed with great taste this pagodatique table ornament.
“The several advantages which it possesses are easily understood, one entrée may have four different sauces, four entrées the varieties of sixteen, or of eight, by putting the sauce double, I mean two compartments filled with the same sauce, and preserve the entrée as the Chinese do, au naturel. To add to its great variety, small dinners (très recherchés) can be served upon it for one or two persons, the sight of a small and delicate entrée will sometimes invite the appetite, where a large entrée approaches too near vulgarity, and would produce a contrary effect; to know how to live an Epicurean in desire, is a great art, but so true it is, that if all our wishes were accomplished life would be an enormous burthen; and nothing can effect this important object but the delicacy and lightness of a well-conceived dish. This once obtained, a first-rate epicure will not only eat with a greater degree of zest and stimulation, but he will, at the same time, enjoy the pleasurable sensations arising from his keen and unerring discernment, that the sister twins, art and science, have been busily employed in administering to his taste. I must also observe, that, from his profound knowledge of the rules of life, he will always bear in mind that ‘moderation is the goddess of health.’”
“Very true! very true!”
“For instance, a real epicure is well aware, and can appreciate that he owes all the delights and pleasures of his existence to a good state of health; for without it no one can enjoy the pleasures of life, and, still less, the pleasure of dégustation; so true is this, that even the company of our best and beloved friends, the possession of riches and honours, the greatest celebrity and glory, lose their charms where health is compromised; the most delicate food loses its zest, the most melodious chords of music, and the greatest optical delights are evanescent, the beauties of nature are lost, and everything is without charm, even the sun—yes, that sun itself, which pours life upon creation, importunes our wretched frame with his torrent of light and universal splendour; which proves that we ought profoundly to study those great agents of nature which preside over our organic movements. Allowing us to use with moderation what our senses desire, is far from a meagre or redoubtable privation for the illustrious disciples of Epicurus; excess and want of experience have often been the cause of man falling into the greatest errors, which have been most pernicious to his health. From the celestial vault the indefinable power desires to guide us safely, and by following his divine lesson we shall not only enjoy extreme happiness, but obey the dictates of our great and wise Creator.”
“I perfectly understand your argument, and have often recognised the profound truth of it. If it is not asking too much, would you be so kind as to name a few entrées you would recommend for these compartments, and sufficient dinner for one or two ladies?”
“It will give me much pleasure to do so, I will mention several: for instance, if a dinner for two persons, I would serve in the centre, filets de sole à la Hollandaise, and in the four corners
Deux Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Pois,
Un Filet de Volaille, piqué à la Purée de Champignons,
Deux Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes,
Demi Perdreaux en Salmi.
Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux Pointes d’Asperges,
Quatre Rissoles aux Huîtres.
In the centre. Poulet printanier piqué aux Cressons,
Deux Cotelettes de Mouton à la Réforme,
Blanquette de Filets de Volaille aux Truffes.
Deux Filets de Grouse à la Bohémienne,
Deux Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf, sauce poivrade.
Centre. One slice of Salmon en Matelote,
Deux Croquettes de Volaille, à la Purée de Foie Gras,
Un Ris de Veau piqué à la Financière.
Deux Grenadins de Veau à la Palestine,
Deux Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu.
Centre. Roast Duckling,
Deux Eperlans frits à la Boulangère,
Salmi de Bécasse.
Deux Ris d’Agneau piqué à la Purée de Choufleurs.
Une Caille aux Feuilles de Vigne.
Centre. A slice of Turbot à la Mazarine,
Un Ailleron et Filet de Volaille à la Marengo,
Deux Rissolettes à la Pompadour.
“I can also give you a few plainer bills of fare for the same.