Before replacing the cams in the frame the pivots should be oiled. Use only a good grade of clock or watch oil and put a small drop on the pivot. A broomstraw or ordinary pen will be found convenient for applying the oil. Be sure to wipe off all surplus oil to prevent it being transferred to the rubber rolls.
NOTE—Before replacing the frames in position on the machine, see that the bracket screws that extend into the frame at each end are loose. If the screws draw the brackets too tight, difficulty will be experienced in seating the brackets to the dowels on the posts. Be sure to lock the keyboard cam yoke triggers by running a wire through the upper holes in the triggers. This is done so the triggers will enter the slots in the keybars. See that all cams are in normal position. This is necessary so the cam yokes will pass under the lower end of the keyrods.
TO TAKE A KEYBOARD APART
Whenever it is necessary to take the keyboard apart to clean, it should be removed from the machine in the following manner: Remove the keyboard cam frames. Remove the assembling elevator lever. Procure a strip of wood furniture fifteen inches long, which is the proper length to just pass inside of the frame posts, fasten a strong cord to each end of the wood strip, take off the keyboard locking bar, place the strip of wood along the back of the keybars, bring the string inside of the side posts to the front of the keyboard. Draw the two ends of the string tight, so that the strip can not move, and fasten it to the keylevers. Take out the two keyboard side plate bracket screws (on each side at the rear of the keyboard frame). Take out the four keyboard front plate screws. Remove the two screws which hold the keybar banking bar to the posts and pull the bar off the dowel pins. Pull the frame toward the front of the machine and lift it out. Place the frame on a bench or table in a slightly inclined position with the rear end the higher. Take out the lower row of keylevers by removing the fulcrum rod. Take off the keybars, keeping them in their regular order. Take out the remaining keylevers by removing the fulcrum rods. Wash the keylevers in denatured alcohol or gasoline, brushing vigorously with a jeweler’s brush the parts that come in contact with the frame. If there is any corrosion left, polish the levers with metal polish; wipe them dry with a clean rag. The keybars should be cleaned in a like manner, but rub each side of each keybar on a graphite board instead of using metal polish. Wash the frame of the keyboard thoroughly, and wipe dry. If an air hose is available, blow all the parts dry with the air.
When reassembling the keyboard, work upward. Place the lower row of keylevers in first, run the fulcrum rod through the holes; then assemble the next rows, using the same procedure for each row. This method makes it easy to assemble the keylevers.
After the board has been assembled, test out each key to see that it is working freely, before replacing the strip of wood.
When replacing the banking bar the slot in the keybars must fit over the bar; raise up on all the keybars with the plate extending underneath them until the banking bar dowel pins fit into the dowel pin holes.
It is usually necessary to clean the entire keyboard only once or twice a year unless the shop conditions around the machine are very dirty.
KEYRODS
The keyrods rest just above the free end of the keyboard cam yokes and extend upward to the escapement mechanism. They are the connection between the escapements and the keyboard cams. On the models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrods are numbered from 1 to 90; the spaceband being a short rod, it is not necessary for it to be numbered. They are held in place by two guides. The lower guide is between the cam frames. On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the upper guide is directly under the magazine at the front. The object of the upper guide is to hold the keyrods in place when locking them on the verges, as they should rest squarely on the verges.