Mrs. Opie had for some time been projecting a visit to Paris; and she now found an opportunity of indulging that desire for travelling, which, as we have seen, she entertained before the death of her father. With mingled emotions she anticipated revisiting a place she had formerly seen under such different circumstances, and she thus expressed her feelings on the occasion:—

It was with twofold sensations, of which, at last, pleasure predominated, that I decided on revisiting Paris. * * When I last saw it, I was accompanied by my husband, as well as endeared friends, and my pleasant experiences were then communicated to my beloved father. Now I am alone in the world, affording, not receiving, protection; and in every way my position in life is changed. Yet, while my self-consciousness and selfish feelings vent themselves in silent but heartfelt regrets, I cannot but recollect that France has undergone changes of far greater importance to itself and the world. The France which I left a Republic, in 1802, has become a Monarchy again, under the dominion of a Bourbon! and I can hardly help smiling at my own engrossing egotism. * * *

During this, and her subsequent Parisian visit, Mrs. Opie kept a daily journal, (as indeed was her wont during all her journies,) in which she recorded events of interest, and carefully noted the attentions shewn her, of however trifling a character, whether by friends or strangers. The following extracts from the journal of this second visit to the French capital, may interest the reader.

* * * * Went on board the Lord Melville steamboat, at half past four in the morning of the 10th of the 6th mo., accompanied by a young lady whom I promised to see safe to Paris. My spirits neither high nor low, and I resolved to keep recollections at bay. * * *

The passage was rough, but I did not suffer from sea sickness. The next day, after a good night, we started at nine o’clock in the diligence, and had a pleasant journey to Abbeville; one of our companions, a pretty Frenchwoman of twenty-five, surprised me by her ignorance and excessive curiosity, and interested me by her evident family attachment. She travelled without a bonnet, (in a very becoming cap,) and told me she rarely wore one, but worked, and walked, and went to mass, without. At sight of her brother, who came to meet her, her fine eyes overflowed with tears.

After a pleasant journey, the traveller reached Paris on the 12th, and, being welcomed by her friends, says:—“I shall like my séjour with them while I stay, and am thankful for everything—all so much more than I deserve.” Next day, on the Place de Grêve, she beheld a crowd gathering round the guillotine! a man was about to suffer death for murder.

* * * For a curious traveller it was an opportune circumstance, and we got out and drew near to examine the awful instrument; a gendarme told me “d’éntrer, et faire la tour.” I found it was the same in form and size as that d’autrefois. Thence we proceeded to the Jardin des Plantes, which was delightful; I saw the elephant bathe, and admired the splendid giraffe, and one bird, the aigle destructeur, which alone, it was worth coming to see. (1st day.) Went to the Champs Elisées, to Meeting at T. S.’s—situation charming—we met only seven persons, and sat only one hour. (15th.) Went to the Duchess de Broglie’s, and had an interesting conversation with her. Thence went to the Hall of the Institute, and was much pleased. (17th inst.) Went this morning to the Marquis de Lafayette’s, found him at home; was most kindly received, and presented my letter, and begged him to read it; he said he was glad to know me, and his daughters would call on, and invite me. A delightful loveable man! a handsome blooming man of seventy-two. My hero through life! How my dear father would have rejoiced in my knowing him. Came home pleased, and bought some confitures. (18th.) Had tickets for the Chamber of Deputies, and was admitted to the Tribune des Dames at twelve. At two the chamber assembled—noise, of the côté droit especially, astonishing. Did not understand much, but enjoyed what I did, and was excessively interested. Saw Benjamin Constant, and heard and understood him. Saw Berard. House up at six. (20th, Saturday.) Lafayette sent me tickets for the Chamber again, with an English note sealed with the head of Washington: precious! At nine went to Baron Cuvier’s, and stayed till half past eleven—amused and flattered. (1st day.) To the Champs Elisées; a short, but most interesting, sitting. It was the fête Dieu, and we should all have liked to have seen the procession, but could not, without giving up meeting. (2nd day, 22nd.) Went to see the glass manufactory in the Faubourg St. Antoine, and on my way saw le Café Turque, full of glasses and bouquets; it must be very pretty lighted up. At the manufactory, the largest glass 130 inches (French) long, and 63 in width. Being near Vincennes, went thither in a cabriolet de remise, and ascended 250 steps to the tower of the dungeon. Was repaid by the view from the top and the fine fresh air, but a tempest came on so violently we could only get to the chapel, and not to the ditch, where the poor d’Enghien was shot. Part of his monument is very fine, and the painted window very much so, the designs are from Raphael. All the way home it rained in our faces; I held mon petit chapeau on my lap, and put my shawl round my head, and the hat escaped unhurt.[[28]]

On the 23rd. The evening was spent at Lafayette’s, where she found many Americans, to whom she was presented, and Mr. Benjamin Constant, who addressed her “politely but coldly.” With her distinguished host and his family she was “delighted,” and two days after, says, “I went at half past ten to Gen. Lafayette’s to sit with him, while he sat for his picture to Davis; Lady Morgan was also there, and I enjoyed my visit. Returning home I went to the Luxembourg gardens, ‘the gardens of Roses!’ and afterwards to La Morgue, whence I hastily withdrew, feeling that I could not bear it.”

The Journal continues:—

(7th day, 27th.) To the General’s, and staid till past twelve, then to the Tuilleries’ palace, which much delighted me with its grandeur and beauty. My evening was spent at Madame la Baronne Cuvier’s soirée, where I met David, and returned home by twelve, much pleased. (2nd day, 30th.) David came to me and I sat for my medal; afterwards spent the day in visiting various places.