The next few days record sittings to David for her medal, and visits to the General’s, to be present while his portrait was proceeding.
(5th day, 2nd of mo.) Breakfasted at the Hôtel des Isles Britanniques, and went with my friends to le Palais * * * saw fine pictures, and fine furniture and rooms; and the bed where Napoleon slept, the last night he passed in Paris, and the table on which he signed his second abdication! The same day went to the Hospital for incurables, and was delighted with Sœur Angelique, sœur de la Charité; I must go again; it is a most perfect Institution. Went afterwards to the Maison de Santé, in the Rue du Quartier St. Denis; and dined at the Café de Paris, on the Boulevards; dinner excellent, and the room so pretty. (7th day, 4th.) Went to Père la Chaise, and being forced by rain into the chapel, saw a young woman give money to have a candle lighted; then she took a chair, and knelt on it and prayed; no doubt it was for the soul of one lost and loved! We were twenty-two in company, of all ranks and conditions, but she alone proved herself devout; soon after, as we were walking along, we saw a young lady in deep mourning, beside a newly-made grave, sobbing violently and wringing her hands, while a gentleman with her begged her to come away and be consoled. I wished to stop and ask him what friend they had lost, but dared not; if I had been alone, I think I should. The view of Paris from this interesting spot is delightful; I felt much interested in this singular scene, and shed many tears at sight of one inscription, in particular. I envied the power of planting flowers on the graves of those we love. We could not find poor George Blackshaw’s grave, nor his son’s. I must come again.
Short entries for several days succeed, recording the events of each day; the completion of her profile medal, by David; her visits to La B. Cuvier; to San Lazare and la Salpétriere; to the General Lafayette’s; to Sèvres and St. Cloud, &c.
(11th, 1st day.) After meeting, David took me to l’Abbé Gregoire’s and I was delighted with my visit, and next day he accompanied me to Père la Chaise; we had a most interesting walk of four hours, but could not find G. B.’s tomb. In the evening I received a letter from De Bardelin, dated Paris, and, glad surprise! he came and took tea with us. The next evening went to Gen. Lafayette’s for the last time, and he invited me to go to La Grange.
On the 17th, she went with a party of friends to Montmorency, and was charmed with the country, but “saw Rousseau’s tomb and the Hermitage unmoved!” Each day bears a record of some visit or excursion, with the many friends who gathered around her. On one of these occasions, at Bishop Luscombe’s she “met a lady whom she had known in 1806;” and beheld with much pleasure, a picture by her husband, which her friend David “thought very good, taking it for a Spanish picture; it is reckoned like Murillo.” A visit to the atelier of the sculptor also draws forth her warm encomiums; she says, “delighted with his General Foy; the statue admirable, the bas-reliefs excellent; also I liked Gregoire’s bust much.” Shortly after she went to see a somnambule, and was “put en rapport avec elle—she very complimentary—I not satisfied; am to see another; my companion was in ecstacies about nothing.” Her journal continues—
(22nd.) Went to l’Hôtel Dieu, was satisfied; went next to Nôtre Dame, and saw, in the sacristy, the things used at the coronation of Napoleon; also, in boxes, the relics—le porte Dieu, used at Napoleon’s coronation; and the glory of rare diamonds; also the robes of Napoleon and Josephine, and the robes brodées en fleurs, which he had made for the pope; and the robes of Charles X, bleu et argent. Went next to the Palais de Justice, and heard pleading and judgment given in the Cour Royale and the Cour de Cassation. Went afterwards to the flower market—delicious! and so home, well satisfied with my morning.
The following letter is selected from amongst several written at the time:—
Rue Cadet, 11, F. S. Montmartre.
Ce 24me., du 7me mois, 1829.
At length my too long neglected friend, I sit down to write to thee; a duty and a pleasure, which I have found it easier to contemplate in prospect, than to fulfil and procure—but trêve d’excuses. Here I have been six weeks! I came for four, but how could I quit this beau Paris et les amiables Parisiens, que j’ai trouvés ici? Dear friend, were I not, as I hope, too old to have my head turned, I think it would have been turned here, by all the attentions and flatteries I have received; but it was humbling, in some measure, to find that I was courted for my past, not my recent writings. The latter are not in the French style; I fear I must own that their moral standard is not as high as ours; but there are here, I fully believe, men, and women too, holy enough to save the city. My experiences have been various, and among all classes; from the sceptic who owns to me, that when he dies, he expects to go into entire nothingness; to the exemplary and pious catholic, who, believing in his own salvation, is kindly and fervently anxious for mine; but I wish my two Generals—one known to thee personally, the other by reputation, to be the chief heroes of this letter. After a month’s residence here, I wrote to Bardelin, at St. Germain’s, where I fancied he was, to tell him I was coming thither, and hoped to see him. He answered me that evening, from Paris, and came to see me soon after; and I find him out of the service, a Maréchal-de-camp; General chevalier décoré! How glad it made me!