The other general is Lafayette; the hero of my childhood, the idol of my youth! And I have found him far beyond my idea of him, high raised as it was! He is a handsome man of seventy-two, humble, simple, and blushing like a girl, at his own praises, with manners the most perfect possible; and his bonhommie is so striking, that one almost forgets his greatness and his fame. I brought a letter to him from my friend, Dr. H., which I delivered in person—I shall never forget his reception!
His daughters called on me the next day, and I had a note from him, inviting me to his soirée. [The letter goes on to describe what is related in the journal.] * * * The great delight was my friend M. S.’s having sent over Davis to paint Lafayette, and Davis wishing me to be present to animate the General! Accordingly I was there five mornings, having his conversation to myself. I was also at his house in the evening, five times. * * *
I have another General to tell about, one of the first men in France as to family; the Marquis de Clermont Tonnerre, (who as a boy was known to thee;) he gave me a dinner the other day, the most beautiful little French dinner I ever saw. Dusgate is a complete savant, shut up, studying mathematics, and, for health’s sake, living on bread and water!! He is, however, very clever and agreeable. The Marquis and I were soon acquainted, and agreed to go together to see sights; we were together some hours, during which I was delighted and edified by his deep piety, (he is a bon Catholique,) and he gratified me by his desire, that I who am “si bonne, et si dévouée aux bonnes œuvres,” (according to him,) should be “entièrement Catholique.”
My next hero is no General, but a sculpteur libéral, the first man of his class here; who, before I saw him, was desirous of making a medal of me, for having made him cry his eyes out by my works. Malgré moi, he has made me en medaille, me and my petit bonnet, which the artists here say looks like a Phrygian helmet, and has un air classique; but, though young and flattered, the thing is like, and David satisfied.[[29]] To this gentleman I owe some of the most interesting hours I have passed here; with a mind in some respects analogous to my own, he has my husband’s poetical views of his art. He has given me much of his precious time; we spent some hours at Père la Chaise, vainly seeking my poor friend’s grave. Père la Chaise is a lovely place. This morning I have been to see an Infant School; very good. Yesterday I saw the lady who is one of the chief directors; she excels all the women I have yet seen here, the Duchess de Broglie excepted. I believe I love her already! In about ten days I expect to set off for England, by Dieppe. I shall leave Paris with regret, and deep gratitude. We have a nice quiet meeting in the Champs Elisées on the first day morning. * * Now for noble monuments, (principally by my companion,) fine trees, a blue sky, and affecting recollections.
With love, I am thy affectionate friend,
A. Opie.
The same day (the 24th) Mrs. Opie visited the Bibliothèque du Roi, and was much amused, “but too late to see the manuscripts:” the succeeding four days were spent in visiting, and on the 28th she writes:—
Up at five, and off to Fontainebleau, enjoying the day excessively; the palace almost painfully interesting, from association; splendid and beautiful; and the forest unique and delightful. It was night before we left it; on the 29th up again at five, and by six off, along the forest ride, to where we must take boat;—too soon for it, and had to walk two hours, so climbed a rock in the forest, and went to see a curious water-mill; took boat at nine, nearly constant rain, but not disagreeable; the voyage seven long hours; the coffee excellent and eggs ditto, and I got a good breakfast, and am writing on board the boat, to keep myself awake; have read nearly three books of De Lisle’s poem on Imagination, some parts of it are excellent.—Reached Paris before four, the rain having ceased.
A succession of daily visits and friendly greetings followed, during the first week in August, (on the 7th she “heard the ministry was changed, and nothing talked of but this change,”) and on the 13th and 14th saw the prizes distributed at the Sourds Muets, (“excessively interested”) and went to a séance, at the Ecole de Commerce et d’Industrie, where she heard La Fitte, Charles Dupin, &c., and was much delighted. She continues:—
(11th.) Went to Nôtre Dame to see the King and Royal Family, and saw them also walk in the street. (25th.) I went to the Institute and heard two prix de vertu adjudged, and saw the prize given for the best poem on the art of printing; the prize poem was read by Le Mercier after the young man had received the prize, and Baron Cuvier delivered a most excellent discourse. My pleasure was increased by seeing Lally Tollendal opposite me, whom I recognised and was glad to see so young and well looking, still. Next day (26th.) Went with Victor Sauce to the Palais de Justice, and heard Dupin plead for Berton, and admirably, but he was condemned! In the evening at Gérard’s, the sentence was much talked of and condemned. On 1st day to Meeting, a solemn and favoured one, to me at least. 2nd day evening to the Missionary Meeting.