This region being the most extensive, and at the same time occupying the greater portion of the interior of South Central Africa, claims special attention in connection with the surrounding native tribes, all of whom claim a portion adjoining their respective territories as their exclusive hunting-ground.
In exploring an unknown country and meeting so many and such a variety of people whose languages differ, it is not easy on making their first acquaintance to grasp the different sounds that give meaning and expression to their words. I noticed this particularly with respect to the name of this desert region in connection with local names on its borders. In writing down names from native pronunciation I wrote them phonetically, using as few letters as possible.
The word Kalahara corresponds with Namaqualand, Damaraland, on the west coast, Zahara Desert on the north, Makarakara salt vlei, Makalakara pits, Kasaka Bushmen of the northern parts, and many others.
The boundary of this vast and interesting region comes down south to the Orange river 29 degrees South latitude, which is also the northern boundary of the Cape Colony, and extends north to the 15 degrees South latitude, the extent of my exploration. The western boundary is formed by Great Namaqua, Damara, and Ovampolands. On the east it is bounded by the Zambese to the Victoria Falls, then due south, skirts the eastern bank of the great Makarakara salt vlei, where five streams enter it from the watershed, viz. the Nata, Quabela, Shuari, Mia, and Tua; thence the boundary runs south to the Makalaka pits, a few miles to the west of Ba-Mangwato, from these pits due south to Molapololo (but that portion of Khama’s country south of Mongwato down to Sechele’s) to the Limpopo may be included, on to Kanya and to Maceby’s Station on the Molapo down that river to Conge, Honey vlei, on to the north of Langberg range of mountains to Cowie, and down that range to the Orange river, thirty miles above Kheis.
The length from north to south, as far as I have explored, is 970 miles; but, from information obtained from the Kasaka Bushmen on the spot, it may extend much further. The greatest breadth is about 500 miles from east to west, and contains within this area 280,000 square miles.
The northern and eastern portion is within the Zambese basin, except that part drained by the Notuane and its tributaries, which is in the Limpopo basin, all the rest and central part is in the Orange river basin.
The great watershed passes through, taking a diagonal course from the south-east corner to the north-west corner in Ovampoland. The greatest altitude above sea-level being 6100 feet, near the source of the Molapo, the lowest along the shed is 4000 feet, and in Ovampoland 3880 feet.
The river system of South Central Africa has already been described in a chapter to itself, so that the configuration of the country should be more clearly understood; but it is necessary to deal with them again to a certain extent in describing the different localities and native tribes within its boundary.
Lake N’gami is situated nearly in the centre of the desert, to which two of the most important northern rivers, Cubango and Quito, flow, uniting in one, the Tonga, which enters the lake at the north-west corner in 20 degrees 25 minutes South latitude, 24 degrees 45 minutes East longitude, at an altitude of 2813 feet above sea-level. The Cubango or Okavango river, the source of which is much farther north than my explorations extended, passes through a dense and impenetrable bush, extending on both banks far away in 15 degrees South latitude, where there are several tributaries falling in. Following the stream, which is broad and in many places deep, with rapids and waterfalls at different points, passing through forest and open country with native kraals situated on its left banks, occupied by various tribes who are great fishermen and have canoes, and where the hippopotami and crocodile abound, down to where the Quito enters it in 17 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, on to Debabe, a large native station, where the river turns south, branching off into the Chobe and Zambese. The other branch takes its course to Lake N’gami, and receives the Okayanka, which rises in Ovampoland and flows east. All to the north of this river the country varies much in character; the eastern portion is low with extensive swamps covered with bush and fine timber, the western portion rises in ridges with lofty plateaux covered with rich tropical plants and trees, including the giant baobab; there are also extensive plains, with dry watercourses crossing them towards the east; many of them have separate names under the general name Omuramba.