After the process of washing by the dash-wheel, the water is expressed from the cloth by means of the squeezers already described.
Bleaching of Linen.—Linen contains much more colouring matter than cotton. The former loses nearly a third of its weight, while the latter loses not more than a twentieth. The fibres of flax possess, in the natural condition, a light gray, yellow, or blond colour. By the operation of rotting, or, as it is commonly called, water-retting, which is employed to enable the textile filaments to be separated from the boon, or woody matter, the colour becomes darker, and, in consequence probably of the putrefaction of the green matter of the bark, the colouring substance appears. Hence, flax prepared without rotting is much paler, and its colouring matter may be in a great measure removed by washing with soap, leaving the filaments nearly white. Mr. James Lee obtained a patent in 1812, as having discovered that the process of steeping and dew-retting is unnecessary, and that flax and hemp will not only dress, but will produce an equal if not greater quantity of more durable fibre, when cleaned in the dry way. Mr. Lee stated that, when hemp or flax plants are ripe, the farmer has nothing more to do than to pull, spread, and dry them in the sun, and then to break them by proper machinery. This promising improvement has apparently come to nought, having been many years abandoned by the patentee himself, though he was favoured with a special act of parliament, which permitted the specification of his patent to remain sealed up for seven years, contrary to the general practice in such cases.
The substance which gives steeped flax its peculiar tint is insoluble in boiling water, in acids, and in alkalies; but it possesses the property of dissolving in caustic or carbonated alkaline lyes, when it has possessed the means of dehydrogenation by previous exposure to oxygen. Hemp is, in this respect, analogous to flax. The bleaching of both depends upon this action of oxygen, and upon the removal of the acidified dye, by means of an alkali. This process is effected generally by the influence of air in combination with light and moisture acting on the linen cloth laid upon the grass: but chlorine will effect the same object more expeditiously. In no case, however, is it possible to acidify the colour completely at once, but there must be many alternate exposures to oxygen or chlorine, and alkali, before the flax becomes white. It is this circumstance alone which renders the bleaching of linen an apparently complicated business.
Having made these preliminary observations with regard to the method of applying the alkaline lyes used in bleaching linen cloth, I shall now bring the whole into one point of view, by detailing the connection of these processes, as carried on at a bleach-field, which has uniformly been successful in returning the cloth of a good white, and has otherwise given satisfaction to its employers; and I shall only remark, that I by no means hold it up as the best process which may be employed, as every experienced bleacher knows that processes must be varied, not only according to existing circumstances, but also according to the nature of the linens operated upon.
In order to avoid repetition, where washing is mentioned, it must always be understood that the linen is taken to the wash-stocks or dash-wheel, and washed well in them for some hours. This part of the work can never be overdone; and on its being properly executed between every part of the bucking, boiling, steeping in the chloride of lime solution, and souring, not a little of the success of bleaching depends. By exposure is meant, that the linen cloth is taken and spread upon the bleach-green for four, six, or eight days, according as the routine of business calls for the return of the cloth, in order to undergo further operations.
A parcel of goods consists of 360 pieces of those linens which are called Britannias. Each piece is 35 yards long; and they weigh, on an average, 10 lbs. each; the weight of the parcel is, in consequence, about 3600 lbs. avoirdupois weight. The linens are first washed, and then steeped in waste alkaline lye, as formerly described under these processes; they then undergo the following operations:—
The linens are then taken to the rubbing-board, and well rubbed with a strong lather of black soap, after which they are well washed in pure spring water. At this period they are carefully examined, and those which are fully bleached are laid aside to be blued, and made up for the market; while those which are not fully white are returned to be boiled, and steeped in the chloride of lime or potash; then soured, until they are fully white.
By the above process, 690 lbs. weight of alkali is taken to bleach 360 pieces of linen, each piece consisting of 35 yards in length; so that the expenditure of alkali would be somewhat less than 2 lbs. for each piece, were it not that some parts of the linens are not fully whitened, as above noted. Two pounds of alkali may therefore be stated as the average quantity employed for bleaching each piece of goods.
The method of bleaching linens in Ireland is similar to the foregoing; any alteration in the process depending upon the judgment of the bleacher in increasing or diminishing the quantity of alkali used. But it is common, at most bleach-fields, to steep the linens in the chloride of lime or potash at an early stage of the process, or after the goods have undergone the fifth or sixth operation of bucking. By this means those parts of the flax which are most difficult to bleach are more easily acted upon by the alkali; and, as before noticed, souring early in very dilute sulphuric acid, assists greatly in forwarding the whitening of the linens. Mr. Grimshaw, calico-printer, near Belfast, was the first who recommended early souring, which has since been very generally adopted.