A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines / containing a clear exposition of their principles and practice

by Andrew Ure

The bleaching of Silk.—Silk in its raw state, as spun by the worm, is either white or yellow of various shades, and is covered with a varnish, which gives it stiffness and a degree of elasticity. For the greater number of purposes to which silk is applied, it must be deprived of this native covering, which was long considered to be a sort of gum. The operation by which this colouring matter is removed is called scouring, cleansing, or boiling. A great many different processes have been proposed for freeing the silk fibres from all foreign impurities, and for giving it the utmost whiteness, lustre, and pliancy; but none of the new plans has superseded, with any advantage, the one practised of old, which consists essentially in steeping the silk in a warm solution of soap; a circumstance placed beyond all doubt by the interesting experiments of M. Roard. The alkalies, or alkaline salts, act in a marked manner upon the varnish of silk, and effect its complete solution; the prolonged agency of boiling water, alone answers the same purpose; but nothing agrees so well with the nature of silk, and preserves its brilliancy and suppleness so perfectly, as a rapid boil with soap-water. It would appear, however, that the Chinese do not employ this method, but something that is preferable. Probably the superior beauty of their white silk may be owing to the superiority of the raw material.

The most ancient method of scouring silk consists of three operations. For the first, or the ungumming, thirty per cent. of soap is first of all dissolved in clean river water by a boiling heat; then the temperature is lowered by the addition of a little cold water, by withdrawing the fire, or at least by damping it. The hanks of silk suspended upon horizontal poles over the boiler, are now plunged into the soapy solution, kept at a heat somewhat under ebullition, which is an essential point; for if hotter, the soap would attack the substance of the silk, and not only dissolve a portion of it, but deprive the whole of its lustre. The portions of the hanks plunged in the bath get scoured by degrees; the varnish and the colouring matter come away, and the silk assumes its proper whiteness and pliancy. Whenever this point is attained, the hanks are turned round upon the poles, so that the portion formerly in the air may be also subjected to the bath. As soon as the whole is completely ungummed, they are taken out, wrung by the peg, and shaken out; after which, the next step, called the boil, is commenced. Into bags of coarse canvass, called pockets, about 25 lbs. or 35 lbs. of ungummed silk are enclosed, and put into a similar bath with the preceding, but with a smaller proportion of soap, which may therefore be raised to the boiling point without any danger of destroying the silk. The ebullition is to be kept up for an hour and a half, during which time the bags must be frequently stirred, lest those near the bottom should suffer an undue degree of heat. The silk experiences in these two operations a loss of about 25 per cent. of its weight.

The third and last scouring operation is intended to give the silk a slight tinge, which renders the white more agreeable, and better adapted to its various uses in trade. In this way we distinguish the China white, which has a faint cast of red, the silver white, the azure white, and the thread white. To produce these different shades, we begin by preparing a soap-water so strong as to lather by agitation; we then add to it, for the China white, a little annotto, mixing it carefully in; and then passing the silk properly through it, till it has acquired the wished for tint. As to the other shades, we need only azure them more or less with a fine indigo, which has been previously washed several times in hot water, and reduced to powder in a mortar. It is then diffused through boiling water, allowed to settle for a few minutes, and the supernatant liquid, which contains only the finer particles, is added to the soap bath, in such proportion as may be requisite. The silk, on being taken out of this bath, must be wrung well, and stretched upon perches to dry; after which it is introduced into the sulphuring chamber, if it is to be made use of in the white state. At Lyons, however, no soap is employed at the third operation: after the boil, the silk is washed, sulphured, and azured, by passing through very clear river water properly blued.

The silks intended for the manufacture of blonds and gauzes are not subjected to the ordinary scouring process, because it is essential, in these cases, for them to preserve their natural stiffness. We must therefore select the raw silk of China, or the whitest raw silks of other countries; steep them, rince them in a bath of pure water, or in one containing a little soap; wring them, expose them to the vapour of sulphur, and then pass them through the azure water. Sometimes this process is repeated.

Before the memoir of M. Roard appeared, extremely vague ideas were entertained about the composition of the native varnish of silk. He has shown that this substance, so far from being of a gummy nature, as had been believed, may be rather compared to bees’ wax, with a species of oil, and a colouring matter, which exists only in raw silks. It is contained in them to the amount of from 23 to 24 per cent., and forms the portion of weight which is lost in the ungumming. It possesses, however, some of the properties of vegetable gums, though it differs essentially as to others. In a dry mass, it is friable and has a vitreous fracture; it is soluble in water, and affords a solution which lathers like soap; but when thrown upon burning coals, it does not soften like gum, but burns with the exhalation of a fetid odour. Its solution, when left exposed to the open air, at first of a golden yellow, becomes soon greenish, and ere long putrefies, as a solution of animal matter would do in similar circumstances. M. Roard assures us that the city of Lyons alone could furnish several thousand quintals of this substance per annum, were it applicable to any useful purpose.

The yellow varnish is of a resinous nature, altogether insoluble in water, very soluble in alcohol, and contains a little volatile oil, which gives it a rank smell. The colour of this resin is easily dissipated, either by exposure to the sun or by the action of chlorine: it forms about one fifty-fifth of its weight.

Bees’ wax exists also in all the sorts of silk, even in that of China; but the whiter the filaments, the less wax do they contain.

M. Roard has observed that, if the silk be exposed to the soap baths for some time after it has been stripped of its foreign matters, it begins to lose body, and has its valuable qualities impaired. It becomes dull, stiff, and coloured in consequence of the solution more or less considerable of its substance; a solution which takes place in all liquids, and even in boiling water. It is for this reason that silks cannot be alumed with heat; and that they lose some of their lustre in being dyed brown, a colour which requires a boiling hot bath. The best mode, therefore, of avoiding these inconveniences, is to boil the silks in the soap-bath no longer than is absolutely necessary for the scouring process, and to expose them in the various dyeing operations to as moderate temperature as may be requisite to communicate the colour. When silks are to be dyed, much less soap should be used in the cleansing, and very little for the dark colours. According to M. Roard, raw silks, white or yellow, may be completely scoured, in one hour, with 15 lbs. of water for one of silk, and a suitable proportion of soap. The soap and the silk should be put into the bath half an hour before its ebullition, and the latter should be turned about frequently. The dull silks, in which the varnish has already undergone some alteration, never acquire a fine white until they are exposed to sulphureous acid gas. Exposure to light has also a very good effect in whitening silks, and is had recourse to, it is said, with advantage by the Chinese.

Carbonate of soda has been proposed to be used instead of soap in scouring silk, but it has never come into use. The Abbé Collomb, in 1785, scoured silk by eight hours’ boiling in simple water, and he found the silks bleached in this way to be stronger than by soap, but they are not nearly so white. A patent has been taken out in England for bleaching them by steam, of which an account will be found under the article [Silk].

It appears that the Chinese do not use soap in producing those fine white silks which are imported into Europe. Michel de Grubbens who resided long at Canton, saw and practised himself the operation there, which he published in the Memoirs of the Academy of Stockholm in 1803. It consists in preparing the silk with a species of white beans, smaller than the Turkey beans, with some wheat flour, common salt, and water. The proportions are 5 parts of beans, 5 of salt, 6 of flour, and 25 of water, to form this vegetable bath. The beans must be previously washed. It is difficult to discover what chemical action can occur between that decoction and the varnish of raw silk; possibly some acid may be developed, which may soften the gummy matter, and facilitate its separation.