[14] By act of parliament 5 grains of gold are allotted for the purpose of gilding 144 buttons, though they may be tolerably well gilt by half that quantity. In this last case, the thickness would be about the 214,000th part of an inch.
The old process in gilding buttons, called the drying off, was exceedingly pernicious to the operator, as he inhaled the vapour of the mercury, which is well known to be a violent poison. In order to obviate this, the following plan of apparatus has been employed with success. The vapour, as it rises from the pan of buttons heated by a charcoal fire, is conducted into an oblong iron flue or gallery, gently sloped downwards, having at its end a small vertical tube dipping into a water cistern, for condensing the mercury, and a large vertical pipe for promoting the draught of the products of the combustion.
Plated buttons are stamped by the fly-press, out of copper-plate, covered on one side with silver at the flatting-mill. The copper side is placed upwards in stamping, and the die or hole through which they are stamped, is rather chamfered at its edge, to make the silver turn over the edge of the button. The backs are stamped in the same manner as the gilt buttons. The shanks are soldered on with silver solder, and heated one by one in the flame of a lamp, with a blow-pipe urged by bellows. The edges are now filed smooth in the lathe, care being taken not to remove any of the silver which is turned over the edge. They are next dipped in acid, to clean the backs, and boiled in cream of tartar and silver, to whiten them; after which they are burnished, the backs being first brushed clean by a brush held against them as they revolve in the lathe. The mode of burnishing is the same as for gilt buttons.
Button shanks are made by hand from brass or iron wire, bent and cut by the following means:—
The wire is lapped spirally round a piece of steel bar. The steel is turned round by screwing it into the end of the spindle of a lathe, and the wire by this means lapped close round it till it is covered. The coil of wire thus formed is slipped off, and a wire fork or staple with parallel legs put into it. It is now laid upon an anvil, and by a punch the coil of wire is struck down between the two prongs of the fork, so as to form a figure 8, a little open in the middle. The punch has an edge which marks the middle of the 8, and the coil being cut open by a pair of shears along this mark, divides each turn of the coil into two perfect button shanks or eyes.
Mr. Holmes, of Birmingham, obtained in May, 1833, a patent for an improved construction of buttons. [Fig. 185.] represents the outside appearance of one of his improved shanks, as raised or formed out of the disc of metal which is to constitute the back of the button; [fig. 186.] an edge view, looking through the shank or loop; [fig. 187.] is another edge view, looking at the raised shank or loop endways; [fig. 188.] is a section taken through the shank and disc in the direction of the dotted line A B, in [fig. 185.]; and [fig. 189.] another section taken in the direction of the dotted line C D, in [fig. 185.] All these figures of his improved shanks, as well as those hereinafter described, together with the tools used to form the same, are drawn at about half the real size, to show the parts more distinctly. It will be seen that the shanks or loops a a are formed by partially cutting and raising, or forcing up a portion of the metal disc or back b, and are compressed or formed by the action of the tools, or punches and dies, so as to have a rounded figure on the inside of the top part of the shank, as at c, the edges of the metal being turned so as to prevent them cutting the threads by which the button is fastened to the cloth or garment. It will be observed that, there being but one passage or way through which the thread can be passed to sew on the button, and that opening being rounded on all edges, will cause the threads to keep in the centre of the shanks, the form of the shank allowing a much neater attachment to the garment, and keeping the threads from the edges of the metal. The ends of the shank, or portions e e, which rise up from the disc or back b, are made nearly circular, in order to avoid presenting any edges of the metal to the sides of the button-hole; and when the shank is sewed on the cloth, it forms, in conjunction with the threads, a round attachment, thereby preventing the shank from cutting or wearing the button-hole: the threads, when the shank is properly sewed to the garment, nearly filling up the opening through the shank, and completing that portion of the circle which has been taken out of the shank by the dies in forming the crescented parts of the loop. It will be therefore understood that the intention is, that the inside edges of the shank should be turned as much as possible away from the threads by which the button is sewed on the cloth, and that the outside of the shank should be formed so as to present rounded surfaces to the button-hole, and that the thread should fill up the opening through the shank, so as to produce a round attachment to the garment. It should here be observed, that the backs of the buttons shown in these figures are of the shape generally used for buttons covered with Florentine or other fabric, or faced with plates of thin metal, and are intended to have the edges of a disc, or what is termed a shell, forming the face, to be closed in upon the inclined or bevelled edges of the backs. Having now described the peculiar form of the improved shanks which he prefers, for buttons to be covered with Florentine or other fabric, or shells of thin metal plate, he proceeds to describe some of the different variations from the same.
