A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines / containing a clear exposition of their principles and practice

by Andrew Ure

CASHMERE or CACHEMERE, a peculiar textile fabric first imported from the kingdom of Cashmere, and now well imitated in France and Great Britain. The material of the Cashmere shawls is the downy wool found about the roots of the hair of the Thibet goat. The year 1819 is remarkable in the history of French husbandry for the acquisition of this breed of goats, imported from the East under the auspices of their government, by the indefatigable courage and zeal of M. Jaubert, who encountered every fatigue and danger to enrich his country with these valuable animals, aided by the patriotism of M. Ternaux, who first planned this importation, and furnished funds for executing it at his own expence and responsibility. He placed a portion of the flock brought by M. Jaubert, at his villa of Saint Ouen, near Paris, where the climate seemed to be very favourable to them, since for several successive years after their introduction M. Ternaux was enabled to sell a great number of both male and female goats. The quantity of fine fleece or down afforded by each animal annually, is from a pound and a half to two pounds.

The wool imported into Europe comes by the way of Casan, the capital of a government of the Russian empire upon the eastern bank of the Wolga; it has naturally a grayish colour, but is easily bleached. Its price a few years back at Paris was 17 francs per kilogramme; that is, about 6 shillings the pound avoirdupois. The waste in picking, carding, and spinning, amounts to about one third of its weight.

The mills for spinning Cachemere wool have multiplied very much of late years in France, as appears from the premiums distributed at the exposition of 1834, and the prices of the yarn have fallen from 25 to 30 per cent. notwithstanding their improved fineness and quality. There is a fabric made with a mixture of Cachemere down and spun silk, which is becoming very general. One of the manufacturers, M. Hindenlang, exhibited samples of Cachemere cloth woven with yarn so fine as No. 130 for warp, and No. 228 for weft.

Messrs. Pollino, brothers, of Paris, produced an assortment of Cachemere pieces from 22 to 100 francs the yard, dyed of every fancy shade. Their establishment at Ferté-Bernard occupies 700 operatives, with an hydraulic wheel of 60 horse power.

The oriental Cashmere shawls are woven by processes extremely slow and consequently costly; whence their prices are very high. They are still sold in Paris at from 4,000 to 10,000 francs a piece; and from 100 to 400 pounds sterling in London. It became necessary therefore either to rest satisfied with work which should have merely a surface appearance, or contrive economical methods of weaving, to produce the real Cachemere style with much less labour. By the aid of the draw-loom and still better of the Jacquard loom, M. Ternaux first succeeded in weaving Cachemere shawls perfectly similar to the oriental in external aspect, which became fashionable under the name of French Cachemere. But to construct shawls altogether identical on both sides with the eastern, was a more difficult task, which was accomplished only at a later period by M. Bauson of Paris.

In both modes of manufacture, the piece is mounted by reading-in the warp for the different leaves of the heddles, as is commonly practised for warps in the Jacquard looms. The weaving of imitation shawls is executed, as usual, by as many shuttles as there are colours in the design, and which are thrown across the warp in the order established by the reader. The greater number of these weft yarns being introduced only at intervals into the web, when the composition of the pattern requires it, they remain floating loose at the back of the piece, and are cut afterwards, without affecting in the least the quality of the texture; but there is a considerable waste of stuff in the weaving, which is worked up into carpets.

The weaving of the imitation of real Cachemere shawls is different from the above. The yarns intended to form the weft are not only equal in number to that of the colours of the pattern to be imitated, but besides this, as many little shuttles or pirns (like those used by embroiderers) are filled with these yarns, as there are to be colours repeated in the breadth of the piece; which renders their number considerable when the pattern is somewhat complicated and loaded with colours. Each of these small bobbins or shuttles passes through only that portion of the flower in which the colour of its yarn is to appear, and stops at the one side and the other of the cloth exactly at its limit; it then returns upon itself after having crossed the thread of the adjoining shuttle. From this reciprocal intertexture of all the yarns of the shuttles, it results, that although the weft is composed of a great many different threads, they no less constitute a continuous line in the whole breadth of the web, upon which the lay or batten acts in the ordinary way We see therefore that the whole art of manufacturing this Cachemere cloth consists in avoiding the confusion of the shuttles, and in not striking up the lay till all have fulfilled their function. The labour does not exceed the strength of a woman, even though she has to direct the loom and work the treddles. Seated on her bench at the end opposite to the middle of the beam, she has for aids in weaving shawls from 45 to 52 inches wide, two girl apprentices, whom she directs and instructs in their tasks. About four hundred days of work are required for a Cachemere shawl of that breadth. For the construction of the loom, see [Jacquard].

In the oriental process all the figures in relief are made simply with a slender pirn without the shuttle used in European weaving. By the Indians the flower and its ground are made with the pirn, by means of an intertwisting, which renders them in some measure independent of the warp. In the Lyons imitation of this style, the leaves of the heddles lift the yarns of the warp, the needles embroider as in lappett weaving, and the flower is united to the warp by the weft thrown across the piece. Thus a great deal of labour is saved, the eye is pleased with an illusion of the loom, and the shawls cost little more than those made by the common fly shuttle.

Considered in reference to their materials, the French shawls present three distinct classes, which characterise the three fabrics of Paris, Lyons, and Nimes.

Paris manufactures the French Cachemere, properly so called, of which both the warp and the weft are the yarn of pure Cachemere down. This web represents with fidelity the figures and the shades of colour of the Indian shawl, which it copies; the deception would be complete if the reverse of the piece did not show the cut ends. The Hindoo shawl, also woven at Paris, has its warp in spun silk, which reduces its price without impairing its beauty much.