A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines / containing a clear exposition of their principles and practice

by Andrew Ure

A shed erected upon the side of a stream, with a cistern of water for washing the skins; wooden horses for cleaning them with the back of the fleshing knife; pincers for removing the fibres of damaged wool; a plunger for depressing the skins in the pits; a lime pit; a pole with a bag tied to the end of it; a two-handed fleshing knife; a rolling pin, from 15 to 18 inches long, thickened in the middle; such are some of the utensils of a tawing establishment. There must be provided also a table for applying the oil to the skins; a fulling mill, worked by a water-wheel or other power; a dressing peg; a press for squeezing out the fatty filth; a stove; planks mounted upon legs, for stretching the skins, &c.

Fresh skins must be worked immediately after being washed, and then dried, otherwise they ferment, and contract either indelible spots, or get tender in certain points, so as to open up and tear under the tools. When received in the dry state they should be steeped in water for two days, and then treated as fresh skins. They are next strongly rubbed on the convex horse-beam with a round-edged knife, in order to make them pliant. The rough parts are removed by the fleshing knife. One workman can in this way prepare 200 skins in a day.

The flesh side of each being rubbed with a cold cream of lime, the skins are piled together with the woolly side of each pair outermost, and the flesh sides in contact. They are left in this state for a few days, till it is found that the wool may be easily removed by plucking.

They are next washed in running water, to separate the greater part of the lime, stripped of the wool by small spring tweezers, and then fleeced smooth by means of the rolling-pin, or sometimes by rubbing with a whetstone. Unless they be fleeced soon after the treatment with lime, they do not well admit of this operation subsequently, as they are apt to get hard.

They are now steeped in the milk of lime-pit, in order to swell, soften, and cleanse them; afterwards in a weak pit of old lime-water, from which they are taken out and drained. This steeping and draining upon inclined tables, are repeated frequently during the space of 3 weeks. Only the skins of young animals, or those of inferior value are tawed. Sometimes the wool is left on, as for housings, &c.

The skins, after having been well softened in the steeps, are rubbed on the outside with a whetstone set in a wooden case with two handles, in order to smooth them completely by removing any remaining filaments of wool. Lamb skins are rubbed with the pin in the direction of their breadth, to give them suppleness; but sheep skins are fulled with water alone. They are now ready for the branning, which is done by mixing 40 lbs. of bran with 20 gallons of water, and keeping them in this fermentable mixture for three weeks—with the addition, if possible, of some old bran water. Here they must be frequently turned over, and carefully watched, as it is a delicate operation. In the course of two days in summer, and eight in winter, the skins are said to be raised, when they sink in the water. On coming out of the bran, they are ready for the white stuff; which is a bath composed of alum and sea-salt. Twelve, fourteen, and sometimes eighteen pounds of alum for 100 skins, form the basis of the bath; to which two and a half pounds of salt are added in winter, and three in summer. These ingredients are introduced into a copper with twelve gallons of water. The salt aids in the whitening action. When the solution is about to boil, three gallons of it are passed through the cullender into a basin; in this 26 skins are worked one after another, and after draining, they are put together into the bath, and left in it for ten minutes to imbibe the salts. They are now ready to receive the paste. For 100 skins, from 13 to 15 pounds of wheat flour are used along with the yolks of 50 eggs. After having warmed the alum bath through which the skins have been passed, the flower is dusted into it, with careful stirring. The paste is well kneaded by the gradual addition of the solution, and passed through the cullender, whereby it becomes as clear as honey. To this the yolks being added, the whole is incorporated with much manual labour. The skins are worked one after another in this paste; and afterwards the whole together are left immersed in it for a day. They are now stretched and dried upon poles, in a proper apartment, during from 8 to 15 days, according to the season.

The effects of the paste are to whiten the skins, to soften them, and to protect them from the hardening influence of the atmosphere, which would naturally render them brittle. They would not bear working upon the softening iron, but for the emulsion which has been introduced into their substance. With this view they are dipped in a tub of clear water during five or six minutes, and then spread and worked upon the board. They are increased by this means in length, in the proportion of 5 to 3. No hard points must be left in them. The whiteness is also better brought out by this operation, which is performed upon the flesh side. The softening tool is an iron plate, about one foot broad, rounded over above, mounted upon an upright beam, 30 inches high, which is fixed to the end of a strong horizontal plank, 3¹⁄₂ feet long, and 1 broad. This plank is heavily loaded, to make it immovable upon the floor. Sometimes the skins are next spread over an undressed clean skin upon the horse, and worked well with the two-handled knife, for the purpose of removing the first and second epidermis, called the fleur and arrière-fleur by the French megissiers. They are then dried while stretched by hooks and strings. When dry they are worked on the stretching iron, or they are occasionally polished with pumice stone. A delicate yellow tint is given by a composition made of two parts of whitening, and one of ochre, applied in a moistened state, and well worked in upon the grain side. After being polished with pumice, they are smoothed with a hot iron, as the laundresses do linen, whereby they acquire a degree of lustre, and are ready to be delivered to the glover.

For housings, the best sheepskins are selected, and such as are covered with the longest and most beautiful fleece. They are steeped in water, in order to be cleaned and softened; after which they are thinned inside by the fleshing knife. They are now steeped in an old bran pit for 3 or 4 days, when they are taken out and washed. They are next subjected to the white or alum bath, the wool being carefully folded within; about 18 pounds of alum being used for 100 skins. The paste is made as for the fleeced skins, but it is merely spread upon their flesh side, and left upon them for 18 hours, so as to stiffen. They are then hung up to dry. They are next moistened by sprinkling cold water upon them, folded up, piled in a heap, and covered with boards weighted with heavy stones; in which state they remain for two days. They are next opened with a round iron upon the horse, and subjected to the stretching iron, being worked broadwise. They are dried with the fleece outermost, in the sun if possible; and are finished upon the stretcher.

Calf and lamb skins with their hair and wool are worked nearly in the same manner; only the thicker the skin, the stronger the alum bath ought to be. One pound of alum and one of salt are required for a single calf skin. It is left four days in this bath, after which it is worked upon the stretcher, then fulled. When half dry the skins are opened upon the horse. In eight days of ordinary weather, they may be completely dressed. Lamb skins are sometimes steeped during eight days in a bath prepared with unbolted rye flour and cold water, in which they are daily moved about two or three times. They are then dried, stretched upon the iron, and switched upon the fleecy side.

Chamois or Shamoy leather.—The skins are first washed, limed, fleeced, and branned as above described. They are next efflowered, that is, deprived of their epidermis by a concave knife, blunt in its middle part, upon the convex horse-beam. The cutting part serves to remove all excrescences, and to equalize the thickness, while the blunt part softens and smooths. The skins of goats, does, and chamois are always treated in this way. They are next subjected to the fermenting bran steep for one or two days, in ordinary weather; but in hot weather for a much shorter time, sometimes only moving them in the sour bran liquor for a few minutes. They are lastly wrung at the peg, and subjected to the fulling mill.