A Friend in the Kitchen; Or, What to Cook and How to Cook It. / Sixteenth Edition - Anna L. Colcord

Medium-sized loaves should be baked from fifty to sixty minutes; small French loaves about thirty-five minutes. Bread is done when it shrinks from the pan, and can be handled without burning the fingers.

When taken from the oven, the loaves should be turned out of the pans, placed on their sides, so that the crust will not soften by the steam, and covered with a thin cloth. When cold, keep in a covered stone jar or a tin box, which should be kept free from crumbs and musty pieces of bread, and scalded and dried thoroughly every few days.

As to their healthfulness, the most wholesome breads are unleavened breads, or those made without either yeast, baking-powder, soda, or cream of tartar, such as gems, rolls, and crackers. Next come those made with good yeast; then those with baking-powder, if comparatively pure; and lastly those made with soda and sour milk, or soda and cream of tartar. Baking-powder is preferable to soda. The latter should seldom if ever be used, as it is injurious to the health, being an active dyspepsia-producing article.

WHITE BREAD

Flour Sieve

Scald a quart of new or unskimmed milk, let cool to lukewarm, then stir in a dissolved yeast cake, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and enough sifted flour to make a thin batter. Cover, and set aside till light, then work in flour until a dough of the proper consistency for bread is formed. Knead until it is smooth and elastic, and does not stick to the hands or board. Place in a clean, oiled crock, and when light, form into four loaves; let rise again and bake. Equal parts of milk and water may be used if desired.

MOTHER’S BREAD

In the evening boil three small potatoes, or save them out when cooking, and mash them with a fork in a gallon crock. Put in about three cupfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls each of salt and sugar, then pour in enough boiling water to make a good batter. Beat until smooth. Soak one cake of compressed yeast or yeast foam in one-half cup of lukewarm water, and when the batter is just warm stir in the yeast and beat until quite foamy. Set in a warm place overnight. The first thing in the morning dip about two quarts of flour in a pan, make a cavity in the center, and pour in the sponge and about a pint of warm water. Stir all together into a thin batter, and set in a warm place till after breakfast; then knead until it does not stick to the board, put it in a three-gallon crock, well oiled to prevent the dough from sticking; cover with a tin lid to keep a crust from forming over the top, then with several thicknesses of cloth, and set in a warm place until it rises up full. Then mold into loaves, place in pans, let rise again, and bake in a moderate oven for about an hour, or until the loaves shrink from the sides of the pans and do not burn the fingers when removing from the pans. Turn the bread out of the pans, and cover with a thin cloth. This will make six loaves. If the loaves are brushed over with cold water just before being placed in the oven the crust will be more crisp.

Baking Pan

GRAHAM BREAD, NO. 1

Take two tablespoonfuls of good liquid yeast, two cups of sweet milk, previously scalded and cooled to lukewarm, one teaspoonful of salt, and two cupfuls of white flour; beat together thoroughly, and set to rise. When very light, add three heaping cupfuls of sifted Graham flour, or sufficient to make a soft dough. Knead for a half-hour, then place in a pan slightly buttered, cover warmly, and set to rise. When light, form into loaves, let rise again, and bake.

GRAHAM BREAD, NO. 2

Make a sponge as for white bread. When light, add the stiffly beaten white of one egg, one tablespoonful each of sugar and melted butter, and enough sifted Graham flour to make a soft dough. Knead lightly, place back in oiled crock till light, then make into loaves, let rise, and bake. Graham bread should not be mixed as stiff as white bread, or it will be too solid. Two tablespoonfuls of molasses may be used for sweetening instead of sugar, if preferred.

GRAHAM FRUIT BREAD

Make the same as Graham bread, and when ready to form into loaves, add a cupful of raisins or dried currants, washed and dried, and dusted with flour.

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD

Make a sponge as for white bread. If desired a light color, use one fourth white flour instead of all whole wheat flour. Knead well, keeping the dough soft, then set in a warm place to rise. When light, form into loaves, let rise again, and bake. This bread rises slower than white bread.

BOSTON BROWN BREAD

Pint Measure

Scald one pint of corn-meal with a pint of boiling water; let cool till lukewarm, then stir in one dissolved yeast cake, or one-half cup of sweet, lively yeast, three tablespoonfuls of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt, and about three cupfuls of rye meal. Beat well, put in oiled pan, steam four or five hours, then place in the oven for half an hour to form a crust.

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS

Take two cupfuls of lukewarm milk, previously scalded, three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, or vegetable oil, one well-beaten egg, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, and one cake of yeast dissolved in a little of the milk; mix all together, then add enough flour to make a good batter. Let rise until light, knead, using sufficient flour; let rise again till very light, roll out to one-half inch in thickness, cut into round or oval shapes with a cutter, fold one third back over the top, and place in a pan to rise. When very light, bake in a moderate oven. Brush over with beaten yolk of egg, mixed with two spoonfuls of cold water just before taking from the oven. Braided or plaited rolls may be made by cutting the rolled dough into strips six inches long and one inch wide, pinching the ends of each three strips together, and then braiding.

CORN-MEAL BREAD

Stir one-half cup of corn-meal into two cupfuls of boiling water; when well cooked, remove from the fire and add two cupfuls of cold water; stir well together; then add one teaspoonful of salt, one cake of yeast dissolved in a little warm water, two tablespoonfuls of sugar or molasses, and enough white flour to make a good dough. Knead well, and set to rise; when light, form into three loaves, let rise again, and bake for nearly an hour.

SALT-RISING BREAD

Take a small pitcher and put into it a half pint of warm water, a teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, then stir in flour enough to make a medium-thick batter. Set the pitcher in a kettle of warm water to rise. It should be kept warm all the time, not hot, for if it is scalded, it will never rise. When light, stir in a pint of warm milk or water and enough warm flour to make a soft dough. Knead it, form into a loaf, place in the pan, set to rise in a warm place, and bake as soon as light.

RAISED BISCUITS

Make from dough prepared for white bread. When the dough is ready to form into loaves, divide it into small, equal portions, shape into smooth, round biscuits, place closely in a shallow baking pan, and let rise till considerably lighter than bread; brush lightly with milk, and bake in a rather quick oven.

GEMS
General Directions

Beating in an abundance of cold air is very essential in the making of good gems, as it is this that makes them light. Cold air is preferable to warm air, as it expands more when heating.

Gem Irons

Gems are also better when baked in iron pans than in tin, as the iron retains the heat better, and bakes the gems more evenly. The irons should be heated and oiled before the batter is dropped into them.

Having the oven hot from the first is also essential, as a crust will then be formed immediately, and the air which has been beaten into the batter will thus be prevented from escaping. They should be placed in the oven so as to bake on the top first, and afterward on the bottom. These points should be carefully observed. Gems are best served hot. They should be broken open, and never cut with a knife, as this makes them heavy.

GRAHAM GEMS, NO. 1

Place the gem irons in the oven or on the range to heat. Mix salted Graham flour with cold milk or water to a batter thick enough to drop, beating vigorously for ten minutes to beat in the air. Butter the gem irons, and fill each cup nearly full of the batter. Put in a hot oven, and bake until done.

GRAHAM GEMS, NO. 2

Beat separately the yolk and white of an egg. Add to the beaten yolk two cupfuls of sweet, rich milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and stir well together; then sift in one and one-half cups of Graham flour, and a scant cup of white flour, beating vigorously meanwhile. Continue to beat until the mixture is light and foamy throughout, and full of air bubbles; then stir in gently the stiffly beaten white of the egg. Have the gem irons thoroughly heated, slightly butter them, drop in the batter with a spoon, and bake in a quick oven.

OATMEAL GEMS

Beat separately the yolk and white of an egg. To the beaten yolk add a cupful of well-cooked oatmeal mush, and a half cup of milk or thin cream. Beat together thoroughly. Continue to beat while adding a cupful of white flour and a pinch of salt, then fold in lightly the stiffly beaten white of the egg. Have the gem irons heated hot, slightly butter, drop in the batter, filling the little cups nearly full, and bake in a quick oven until a light brown.

CORN-MEAL GEMS

Stir well together one and one-half cupfuls of milk, and the yolks of two eggs previously beaten. To this add two cupfuls of corn-meal, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one cupful of white flour. Beat thoroughly, then stir in lightly the whites of the eggs previously beaten to a stiff froth, and bake as above.

GRANULATED WHEAT GEMS

Mix together one cupful each of cold water and milk, and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Then add gradually two and one-half cupfuls of fine granulated wheat, beating continuously. Beat vigorously for ten minutes, then drop by spoonfuls into thoroughly heated, buttered gem irons, beating the batter briskly several times while dipping it in. Bake at once in a very hot oven.

RICE CAKES

Moisten one cup of well-cooked rice with two tablespoonfuls of cream or rich milk; add one tablespoonful of sugar, and mix in enough flour to make it hold together. Form into cakes one-third of an inch thick, and bake in a hot oven. When done, split open, and serve with maple or lemon sirup. To make lemon sirup, see [page 40].

BREAKFAST ROLLS

To three slightly heaping cups of sifted Graham flour add a little salt, and one cup of milk or thin cream; cream is better. Stir the milk or cream into the flour, mixing it well with the flour as fast as poured in. Knead thoroughly, then divide the dough into three portions, and with the hands roll each portion over and over on the molding-board until a long roll from an inch to an inch and a half in thickness is formed. Cut into two- or three-inch lengths, and bake at once in a hot oven, in a baking pan dusted with flour, or better, on a perforated piece of sheet-iron made for the purpose, placing the rolls a little distance apart. Bake until a light brown. When done, do not place one on top of another.

Flour kneaded into cold Graham flour, oatmeal, or corn-meal mush makes very good breakfast rolls.

STICKS

Make the same as breakfast rolls, only rolling the dough to about the size of the little finger, and cutting into three- or four-inch lengths.

FRENCH ROLLS

Make a sponge at night of one-half cake of dry or one-half cup of good liquid yeast, the beaten white of one egg, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, and three cups of warm milk or water, and flour sufficient to make a soft dough. In the morning knead well and let rise again. When light, roll out the dough to about three fourths of an inch in thickness; cut into about four-inch squares with a sharp knife, butter the edges, and roll each corner up and over to the center; place on buttered tins, allow the rolls to become very light, and bake in a moderately hot oven. The sponge for this can be set in the morning if the yeast is very quick.

TO GLAZE ROLLS

When ready to bake, brush the rolls or biscuit lightly with milk; or, when nearly baked, brush with the yolk of an egg to which has been added two spoonfuls of cold water and half a teaspoonful of sugar. Return to oven till done.

MARYLAND OR BEATEN BISCUIT

Mix five cupfuls of white flour, one-half cupful of vegetable oil or butter, and one teaspoonful of salt to a very stiff dough with one cupful of cold water. Knead for twenty minutes, using no more flour for the molding-board; then beat hard with a wooden mallet or hammer for twenty minutes longer, until the dough is flat and of even thickness throughout; sprinkle over a little flour, fold half of the dough back evenly over the other half, and beat quickly around the edges, to keep in the air. Continue beating until the dough is brittle, and will snap if a piece is broken off quickly. Pinch off into pieces the size of a small walnut, work smooth, flatten on top with the thumb, prick with a fork, place on perforated tins a little distance apart, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour, or until dry and brittle throughout.

WHOLE WHEAT CRISPS

Take one cupful of rich cream, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, two cupfuls, or enough to make a stiff dough, of fine granulated, whole wheat flour. Beat well, and knead for fifteen minutes, first with a spoon, until the batter becomes too thick, and then with the hands. Roll out as thin as wafers, cut into shapes with a biscuit cutter, and bake on floured tins in a very hot oven.

GRAHAM WAFERS

Cake Cutter

Stir together one cupful each of sifted Graham flour and white flour, one tablespoonful each of butter and sugar, and a saltspoonful of salt; then mix with enough cold water to make a stiff dough. Roll out very thin, cut into small squares, or with a cake cutter, and bake on tins in a quick oven.

FRUIT BISCUIT

Make a dough with one cupful of cold, sweet cream or rich milk, three cupfuls of sifted Graham or white flour, and a little salt. Knead thoroughly, and divide into two portions. Roll each quite thin, then spread one with currants, stoned dates, figs, or seedless raisins, chopped fine, and place the other one on top; press down with the rolling-pin, cut into oblong squares with a knife, and bake.

CRESCENTS

Make a dough, using the recipe for White Bread. When ready to form into loaves, work into it two tablespoonfuls each of butter and sugar; roll out into a sheet half an inch thick, cut into six-inch squares, then divide diagonally, forming triangles; brush each lightly with water, and roll up, beginning at the longest side; place on oiled pans, turning the ends toward each other in the form of a crescent. When very light, brush with milk, and bake in a quick oven for about twenty minutes.

RUSKS

Make a sponge at night with one cupful of sugar, one cupful of scalded milk, cooled to lukewarm, one-half cupful of butter, two eggs, one cake of dry or one-half cup of good liquid yeast, and sufficient flour to make a drop batter. Set in a warm place to rise. In the morning knead well, and when risen again, mold into the form of biscuits, place a little distance apart on buttered tins, and brush over with the beaten white of an egg sweetened; let stand until light, and bake.

PLAIN BUNS

Beat together one-fourth cup of lively yeast, one cup of sweet milk, previously scalded and cooled to lukewarm, one-half teaspoonful of salt, two cups of warm flour, and set in a warm place to rise. When very light, work into the dough one-half cup of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Knead well for ten minutes, using enough flour to make a soft dough. Shape into the form of biscuits a little larger than an egg; place on tins slightly buttered, and set in a warm place to rise. When very light, bake in a moderately hot oven. The tops may be brushed over with the sweetened beaten white of an egg while baking, or sprinkled with moist sugar when taken from the oven.

FRUIT BUNS

Make the same as plain buns, adding one-half cup of raisins or currants just before kneading and forming into buns.

RICE WAFFLES

Waffle Iron

Set a sponge at night with two cupfuls of sweet milk, scalded and cooled to lukewarm, one tablespoonful of butter, a pinch of salt, two-thirds of a cupful of boiled rice, three cupfuls of flour, and one-fourth cup of liquid yeast. Beat the batter hard for five or six minutes, and set in a warm place to rise. In the morning add two well-beaten eggs, and stir well together. Bake on a hot, buttered waffle iron. If this is not at hand, have the gem irons well heated, slightly butter to prevent sticking, and drop in the batter. Place in a hot oven so the top will bake first, and bake to a rich brown color. Very nice for breakfast.

PUFFS

To two cups of milk add a little salt and the yolks of two eggs well beaten; then sift in, a little at a time, and beating meanwhile, three small cups of flour. Beat until light, then stir in gently the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, and bake in hot gem irons.

FRUIT LOAF, NO. 1

Take enough good bread dough for one loaf, add one cupful of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and one cupful of raisins, previously washed and dried. Knead well and let rise; then knead again, and place in a bread pan, let rise until light, and bake in a moderate oven.

FRUIT LOAF, NO. 2

Make a sponge of one and one-half cups of warm milk or water, one-half cup of good yeast, the beaten white of one egg, one tablespoonful each of butter and sugar, a little salt, and flour sufficient to make a soft dough. Let rise till light; then knead well and let rise again. When light, roll out to about one inch in thickness, spread over with chopped dates, or raisins, or currants which have been previously washed and dried; roll up and form into a loaf, let rise, and bake.

COFFEE CAKES

Take two cupfuls of bread dough (made with milk) when ready for the pans; put into a deep dish and work in four tablespoonfuls of cocoanut or vegetable oil or butter, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, the stiffly beaten white of one egg, and enough flour to make a fairly stiff dough. Knead well, and roll out into a long strip about nine inches in width, three feet in length, and one fourth of an inch thick; spread over this four or five tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter, omitting about two inches at the farther end; beginning at end nearest, roll up like jelly roll; cut into slices an inch thick; place a little distance apart on tins sprinkled with sugar; set in a warm place, and when very light, brush over with oil; sprinkle with a little sugar, and bake. If desired, ground cinnamon or grated nutmeg may be sprinkled over the dough before rolling it up.

FLANNEL CAKES

Heat three cupfuls of milk to boiling; put into a crock one cupful of corn-meal and two tablespoonfuls of butter, then pour in the scalding milk; beat well, allow to cool to lukewarm, then stir in one tablespoonful of sugar, two of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-half yeast cake dissolved in one-third cup warm water; beat well, and set to rise overnight. Bake on a hot griddle.

CORN-MEAL BATTER CAKES

Griddle

To two cups of cold corn-meal mush, add one cup of sifted flour, and a pinch of salt; beat well the yolks of two eggs, to which add two-thirds cup of milk, and stir into the mush; beat thoroughly until light and smooth, adding a little more milk if necessary, to make the batter of proper consistency. Then gently stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and bake in small cakes on both sides on a griddle, slightly buttered, or better still on a soapstone griddle, in which case use no oil nor butter on it. Serve hot.

BUCKWHEAT PANCAKES

In the evening take two quarts of warm water, add one-fourth cup of good yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and buckwheat flour enough to make a good batter. If desired, a cupful of corn-meal or a few spoonfuls of white flour may be used instead of all buckwheat. Beat well and set to rise. In the morning thin the batter with a little warm water, if necessary, and bake on a hot griddle. If cakes are desired for several mornings, the batter may be kept going by leaving at least a cupful after each baking, and adding the necessary warm water and buckwheat flour each evening as at first.

LENTIL FRITTERS

To a pint of lentil soup (left-over soup will do), add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and sift in enough flour, a little at a time, beating thoroughly, to make a good batter. Then add the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, drop by spoonfuls on a hot buttered griddle, and brown on both sides.

CORN FRITTERS

To each quart of raw sweet corn (a dozen nice ears), grated from the cob, add the beaten yolks of three eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and one and one-half cups of fine bread or cracker crumbs, or enough to make a batter just stiff enough to drop from a spoon. Then stir in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, and drop with a spoon on a hot, oiled, or soapstone griddle. Serve hot.

USES FOR STALE BREAD

Whole slices of stale bread, if in good condition, may be steamed or used for toast. Crumbs, crusts, and broken pieces not suitable for this purpose may be placed in a pan, and put into a slow oven until thoroughly dried (not browned), then ground in a mill, or rolled on a breadboard with the rolling-pin, and put away in covered jars for use. This will be useful for making corn-meal cutlets or anything that is to be rolled in crumbs, dipped in egg, and browned.

POTATO YEAST

Put to cook six medium-sized potatoes in two quarts of hot water. Tie a handful of hops in a cloth, and boil with the potatoes during the last ten minutes. When done, take potatoes and hops from the water, leaving the water over the fire. Mash the potatoes fine, and add four tablespoonfuls of flour, and two each of sugar and salt. Stir well together. Pour over this mixture the boiling potato water, stirring well that no lumps be formed. When cooled to lukewarm, stir in a cupful of liquid yeast, or one cake of dry yeast dissolved in warm water. After fermentation has ceased, turn into an earthen jar previously scalded, cover, and set in a cool, dark place. Shake before using.

HOP YEAST

Steep a handful of hops in a quart of hot water for five minutes. Then strain, and turn the boiling water over a cupful of flour, blended with a little cold water. Add one tablespoonful of salt, and two of sugar; let cool till lukewarm, then stir in a half cup of liquid yeast, or one cake of dry or compressed yeast dissolved in a little warm water. Set aside for twenty-four hours, stirring occasionally; then bottle and keep as above.