Braid Stitch (Fig. 9).—When a fairly heavy line is necessary, Fig. 9 can be used. It has a braid-like appearance, and for that reason is generally known as braid stitch. Work from right to left and start on the lower edge. Bring the thread out and place the thumb on it, and twist the needle round the held thread, so forming a loose twist on it (Fig. 9A). Then insert the needle in the upper line, a little to the left of the starting point; bring it out on the lower line, exactly beneath; place the thread under the needle, and draw through, keeping the thumb on the stitch till tightened sufficiently to form the link.

Fig. 9a.

CHAPTER VI

BUTTON-HOLE AND BORDER STITCHES—HEMSTITCHING
AND OPEN FILLINGS

“And she that is wise, her time will pris.”

Part of a Curtain.—This illustration (Plate IV.) gives a part of a curtain, which is a fine piece of work. The design has been well considered. The simple masses are admirably juxtaposed; they have been skilfully arranged in a manner singularly appropriate to the work. As a piece of embroidery that would generally be looked at from some distance there has been no time spent on minute detail which would involve unnecessary labour. The bold, yet dainty treatment of the needlework is first-rate, and the whole arrangement of the design, colour and stitchery show that the purpose for which the embroidery was meant must have been continually in the mind of the worker.

The circular massed forms in rich reddish-orange are set, most successfully, the one against the other; the green masses, so simple in shape and satisfactory in colour, are clearly silhouetted against the dark background; the white oblongs with the little orange circles, the applied hem and bands in vivid blue, the interesting variation in stitchery, all go to make a charmingly harmonious piece of simple decoration. Work of this type can be made from materials which are quite inexpensive, and its value on that account is increased tenfold. In the illustration, the various parts of the design, colour and stitchery are so clearly brought out that a detailed description is not required. The background is of linen of a firm quality; the applied forms may be of linen or of any firm material in wool or cotton; the embroidery is in wools, cottons and silks. For the method of working the button-hole filling, see [Fig. 11]. The large circular forms are fixed to the foundation with a row of chain stitch; the little orange circles on the white ground are in the same stitch (Fig. 1). The blue bands are applied with darning or tacking stitch outlined with coral stitch (Fig. 2), the hem with button-hole stitch. The effective little groups of white on the green ground are in petal stitch (Fig. 3). All the little square blocks are in satin stitch. How interesting this constructional design can become to the needlewoman who uses her powers of mind and brain, and who applies her ideas to decorate all manner of things. She would no longer be content to work detached sprays of flowers and leaves, strewn promiscuously over her work, once she discovered what good patterns she could make with simple shapes and with the aid of small pieces of bright-coloured patches and short lengths of material, which she might adapt and use for many purposes.

Various Button-hole Stitches.—Button-hole stitch is one of the most useful of stitches, owing to its construction and adaptability, and the decision with which it marks a line. It can be used equally well for plain needlework, embroidery, or needle-point lace; for borders or fillings, either open or solid, for the covering of raw edges, the outlining of appliqué forms, or the working of flowers or leaves. The direction, spacing and grouping of the stitch may be arranged to suit the work and curved lines may be followed with the utmost facility.

Indeed, the interesting variations and combinations which may be obtained by an ingenious worker are endless.