An embroidery book

by Anne Knox Arthur

Fig. 10a.

There are two ways of working the stitch, single button-hole (Fig. 10A), and double or tailor’s button-hole; the former, when worked with rather a wide space between each stitch, is generally known as blanket stitch. Fig. 10A gives a corner for a border, which will also make a suitable finish or heading to the neck of a dress or blouse; it may be spaced in various ways, worked in slanting lines, or with stitches of equal lengths, worked over threads or narrow braids of a different colour or tone. When the heading forms a close line, it is usually considered as a button-hole stitch. Plate I. shows two lines of button-holing worked in groups of three, in orange wool, between two rows of chequered chain stitch, where they serve to connect the broad bands of orange which surround the border of the runner.

For the making of an actual button-hole, or where a firmer and more decorative heading is wanted, it is better to use the variety known as tailor’s button-hole, which has an extra knot added to it; it is this knot which gives greater firmness as well as beauty to the stitch.

To work Blanket Stitch (Fig. 10a).—Blanket, or single button-hole stitch, is so well known that it is hardly necessary to describe it. Bring the needle out at the left end of the line or border; place the thread under the left thumb and insert the needle as shown in Fig. 10A; draw it through, still keeping the thumb on the thread—the needle is thus brought out over it.

Tailor’s Button Stitch.—Tailor’s button-hole—the method of working:—Put the needle into the same position, with the thread under it, as for the single stitch, then take the thread, near the eye of the needle, in the right hand and pass it from right to left again under the needle; draw the needle through both loops and the stitch is complete.

Fig. 10.

Crossed Button-hole (Fig. 10).—Fig. 10 shows another variety of the stitch. The threads are crossed by sloping the needle to the right for the one, and to the left for the other. When worked on a loosely-woven material they can easily be kept exact. The knotted edge may be further strengthened by a row of chain stitch, which always improves the line. As may be seen from the figure, either the under or upper stitches may be the longer, but they should not be varied on the same border, otherwise the regularity of the work will be impaired.

Flowers in Button-hole Stitch (Plate XIII.).—Fig. 11 may be used for a solid or open groundstitch; it makes a charming filling when worked over the material for the petals of large flowers, each petal being outlined with chain stitch, couching, or back stitching (Plate XI.). When working over a foundation, the first row and the last only are fixed to the material; the intervening rows are worked into the headings or loops of the preceding rows. When the spaces to be filled with stitchery of this type are not of such a form as to allow of working continuously, each row of stitchery must be attached to the material at the sides, to keep it in position; the rows are then worked to and fro from right to left, or vice versâ.