An embroidery book

by Anne Knox Arthur

A Chequered Pattern (Fig. 31).—Chequered patterns look well in needle-weaving. A number of colours may be introduced if the spacing permits.

Fig. 31.

Fig. 31 shows a diagram of needle-weaving which gives the method of working a chequered pattern on the upright or warp threads. Prepare the bar or band by removing the weaker (weft) threads; a little decorative line of stitchery may then be added by hemstitching, button-holing, or herring-boning the edges; this adds a finish and groups the warp threads into clusters which is an advantage—it saves trouble when the actual weaving begins by keeping the weft threads in place; cross stitch and oversewing are useful stitches for the same purpose. The worker should be careful to group the strands equally by dividing them into clusters of three, four, or six threads. In Fig. 31 the upper row is hemstitched loosely, to show the method (see also [Fig. 34], p. 114, for hemstitching). The lower edge of the diagram is not hemstitched; if the threads are woven in closely it is not always necessary to do so, although a line of stitchery is an improvement—it softens the edge and adds to the appearance of the weaving (see [Chapter V.]).

Method of working Fig. 31:—Withdraw the threads of the material for three-quarters of an inch wide, and of the desired length; cut the weft threads at one end and the corresponding threads at the opposite end. If the bar is long, correctness of line may be ensured by pulling and tightening a single thread on the upper and lower edges—these will indicate the exact spot for cutting them without risk of mistake. Take a fairly long thread of wool and a blunt-pointed tapestry needle; a loose but regularly-woven canvas is the best material to work on to begin with, and wool or flax threads give the best results. The threads are easily seen and counted, and there is not the same chance of their being dragged or over-tightened. Secure the thread by running a few stitches on the under side; bring the needle up between two groups of threads; pass it alternately over one group and under the other until a piece the size of the chequer wanted has been filled in. As the needle passes to and fro it should press down each row of weaving closely together; this has the same effect as the “comb” which the weaver uses to press down the weft threads of his fabric. The first block being finished, pass to the next two groups by carrying the needle over and under as before, and pressing down each row with the needle; the second compact mass will then be woven as in the diagram. To reach the next block, slip the needle down the back of the second chequer; this will bring it into position to work the lower block. Continue in this way to the end of the row, always passing the needle—at the back—through the group of woven threads to get into position for the next block.

Reversible Needle-weaving.—These chequers may be worked in slanting rows, or they may form a vandyke pattern, ascending and descending in a series of little steps; the V-shaped spaces between at top and bottom of the line may be filled in with another pattern or with rows of chequers in a contrasting colour. Both sides of the patterns are alike, and when the beginnings and finishings of threads are neatly done it may be reversible. This is one difference between needle-weaving and tapestry-weaving; in the latter the work is done with the wrong side or back of the pattern uppermost; it shows the starting and fastening off of threads, as well as the passing of threads from one part to another, all of which makes the one side unpresentable.

Another Pattern.—Some simple insertions may be worked by varying, slightly, the arrangement of the groups. Begin as in Fig. 31, but weave over three groups of threads instead of two; having arrived at the centre, carry on weaving over two more groups to the right and include the last group of the block just darned, to form the beginning of the new block. By repeating these groups of three alternately at the top and at the foot, always using the last of the previously darned block as the first of the next, a pretty little pattern is formed—a central cluster of threads is left between each block, which may afterwards be oversewn with a contrasting colour, or left with the warp threads of the material exposed. A very open and particularly effective insertion for a hem is made by working over two groups of four threads each—three or six strands of thread in each cluster if preferred. Begin exactly as in Fig. 31, at the left lower corner, and weave to the centre; then take in one more cluster and weave in with it the last one of the previous block; work to the top; slip the thread down to the centre; weave over two clusters, adding one of those previously woven with another group; continue in this way to the end. By adding a new cluster to the one already in use the threads are pulled further apart, and a wider opening between the groups is the result. With these few suggestions, the worker will find that she can arrange and vary these insertions to suit her material and her own taste.

Filet Background.—Small squares, ovals, circles, or indeed any shaped space may be filled in with a net or filet background, then darned in with a simple pattern. The usual way of opening a square or oval (Plate X.) is to button-hole the form round the outside, then turn the work on to the wrong side and cut the horizontal threads at the edge—near the button-holing; draw and cut again at the opposite side these same threads. The whole of the space is cut and divided up; a bar of threads is left between each of the open spaces, always leaving the same number of threads between each three or four, and cut and draw the next three or four. When the horizontal threads are cut and drawn, cut the vertical ones in the same way; when these are finished, begin to oversew each line, with one stitch into each hole backwards and forwards, until each line, horizontal and vertical, is oversewn. Care must be taken to make all oversewn stitches lie the same way. Note—the preparation of the background is done on the wrong side. Little geometrical shapes and patterns may now be darned in. As said above, the number of threads left in between these open spaces may vary; the fewer there are, the more open the squares will be. The result of this cutting and pulling of threads is a net background which can be worked in many different ways. The usual method is to oversew all the horizontal lines first, taking care to let the stitches lie the same way in each row; turn the work half round to oversew the remaining lines in the same way.

There is another way of making an open background which might commend itself to those who are averse to removing the threads, that is, by cutting the material which forms the background into narrow strips and oversewing the bars. It should be marked off in double horizontal lines rather less than an eighth of an inch apart; place these double lines at regular intervals about half an inch apart; rule them in chalk or pencil, then mark off the half-inch spaces into vertical lines an eighth of an inch apart; these vertical lines are then cut two or three at a time with a sharp pair of scissors and oversewn one by one in rows, overseaming the upper and lower horizontal bars by the way.

Very charming needle-woven bands can be arranged for different purposes by button-holing squares or oblongs, cutting and withdrawing four threads each way and leaving eight between. When a square is button-holed—with twenty-eight vertical and horizontal threads in the enclosure—there will be four solid squares connecting nine open ones, that is, one open square in the centre with the four solid squares at each corner, and the open ones surrounding them. Each solid square has eight single threads surrounding it; divide these into two groups by interweaving four threads under two and over two. When finished, there will be two woven bars connecting each side of the small squares with each other and with the outer button-holed square. These woven bars could occur at regular intervals among the more solid needle-woven portions.