Many very charming things may be made in this way with woven threads. These primitive patterns can be worked with ease in such varied forms, alone or as adjuncts to embroidery (Plate VI.), that an inventive needle-woman can ornament in rich colours, or without the aid of colour, many interesting pieces of work, provided she takes care to weave regularly and keeps her design simple and suited to the material.
Fig. 32.
“Point de Réprise” or Darning Stitch.—Fig. 32 shows an insertion worked on a foundation or trellis. This stitch, which may be used as a filling for open spaces or for the decoration and joining of two edges, is an interesting one, and most effective when worked. In cottons, wools, or silks it could be applied to many different purposes quite suitably; worked on linen with silk or flax threads, it might provide a dainty insertion for some article of personal wear; worked in wool, it could decorate simply collars, cuffs and bands for a dress or jumper suit. Fig. 32 gives merely one form with the method of weaving, but there are many others to which the woven pyramid is applied. It is much quicker and simpler in execution than the button-hole pyramid, which is firmer but much more tedious to work—the former, too, looks well in wools and thick threads, while the latter requires lace thread. Woven pyramids are frequently used by point lace workers; this is called by them “point de réprise,” and applied to the fillings of circles and leaf shapes where the little cone-like forms work in very appropriately. The foundation of Fig. 32 is a double line of faggoting in Russian stitch; a single line is worked first; the stitches are taken widely apart, then a second row is worked between the spaces of the other, so that a series of little diamond-shaped spaces are formed as in Fig. 25. Begin at the edge of the braid and weave the pyramid from the base so that the points may meet at the centre; be careful to weave an equal number of threads into each cone-like shape, or they will vary in size.
Pyramid Insertion.—An insertion of alternate pyramids, with the bases at the centre, is more open and does not take so long to work. Make a foundation of faggot stitch, a single row this time, then carry the thread to the point of one of those stitches and weave over two threads to the centre. As these little cones should always be worked from the point, carry the thread to the top of the braid by overcasting the faggot thread; weave again towards the centre; when finished, the bases of the pyramids will form a central line.
An equally simple insertion and quite as effective is to work the pyramids in button-hole stitch on to each faggot thread. After forming the foundation stitches—the trellis—begin at the point as before, and work two button-hole stitches on each side before crossing over to the other side; otherwise it is worked exactly as the former pattern detailed above. Two rows of faggot stitch may be used for the foundation of quite a number of different woven patterns. Little rosettes or wheels are formed by five threads; at the junction of the stitches—at the centre of the space—are four threads; add another by carrying a central thread to the first group; work the rosettes over the five threads in a similar manner to Fig. 54, weaving the threads in and out; when finished, slip the needle under the finished rosette to the next intersection of the stitches and work the second rosette and so on. Descriptions are always tedious to follow—the best way is for one to work with needle and thread while another reads the directions aloud.
PLATE XI.
A NIGHTDRESS CASE ([See p. 128].)
Interlacing Stitch (Fig. P, Plate II.).—This interesting insertion stitch is one which will well repay the worker for her trouble in mastering it. Although not a complicated stitch, there are little points to be noted in the laying of the foundation threads which, if omitted, prevent the interlacing threads from working in properly.